Robinsons Redoubtable Assembly Instructions Manual page 3

SECTION
TITLE
No
PARTS LIST
BASE
B
PREPARATION
P
1a
LOW AND HIGH
1b
SIDES
FRONT
2
GABLE
REAR
3
GABLE
JOINING THE
4
FOUR SIDES
ROOF
5
VENT
6a
6b
VENT SLAM
DOOR/S
7
8
GLAZING
VENT
9
ATTACHMENT
DOOR
10
ATTACHMENT
ANCHORING
11
DOWN
OPTIONAL
12
LOUVRE
13
OPTIONAL
SHELVING /
STAGING
14
FINISHING
15
TOUCHES
ASSEMBLY SYNOPSIS: IMPORTANT INFORMATION / CONSIDERATIONS
Most components should have a 'D' code punched into their metal surface. Identify and sepa-
rate all like for like components prior to assembly. The 'parts list' also separates parts into the
various sections 1 - 12 shown below. Parts can also be identified by their profile pictures and
stated lengths etc..
Base dimensions and recommendations. Ensure that your base is level as this will make assembly of
the building, especially the glazing of the roof much more straight forward.
Tools required. IMPORTANT: Use WD40 or similar in the glazing bar channels and insert the black glaz-
ing rubber prior to frame assembly.
Take the side glazing bars with the rubber inserted and the diagonal braces and use 10mm bolts to join
them to the gutter and 15mm bolts to the cills (note how the head of the bolt slides into each glazing bar
during construction). Please notice how one side is taller than the other (1a <1b) and that the taller side
has a different profile cill enabling a door to be added.
Again ensuring that the gable framework is rubbered-up follow the diagrams to assemble each end of
the building. The gable ends of this model can be built so that the roof can be orientated in two different
way please choose the appropriate component layouts for your requirements. Make sure that you have
inserted the extra bolts utilised in sections 4, 5 and 10. On the roof and side corner bars not every rub-
ber channel will require rubber unless it is to be utilised in a partition (see separate manual and section
P).
Take the low and high sides (1a/1b) and both gables (2 & 3) and join them together on your base. It is a
good idea to tie some ladders to the sides to support them if you do not have anyone to hold them.
Attach the ridge and then the rubbered-up roof bars ensuring that they are fully butted up to the ridge
and down onto the gutter. If you have cresting then it is a good idea to fit it before glazing, see section
(15). Some tubular braces are supplied to add extra strength, they can be fitted now or later with crop
head bolts.
Once the vent is glazed add silicone to the vent sides and top. Stand the vent/s on their hinge (vent top)
and then leave the silicone to set. The slam bar 'D079' can be moved up and down between the roof
glazing bars so that it can be butted down onto the pane of glass beneath, the autovent will be attached
to it later on (9).
Construct the doors and then leave to one side ready for attachment in section (10).
Layout the bar cappings and covers around the building like a sundial checking that all is present and
correct. You can also place the roof cappings in the gutters so they are closer to hand. The glass in the
sides has to bevel on the black separator strip which is on top of the 305mm high glass base panels.
This bevelling action allows the glass to tuck underneath the gutter canopy. Use the capping and the self
tapping screws to then hold the glass in place. The covers then enclose the screw heads giving a neat
finish. A top tip is to not attach the door post capping (D814/D836) until you have fitted the door runner
and threshold (10) to give you more room to manoeuvre. It is a good idea to glaze two roof sections first
to ensure the building is square followed by two side sections to ensure the building isn't leaning, On
occasion a hacksaw may be required to make minor adjustments to the length of the capping / covers.
Take the assembled vent and slide the vent hinge 'D866' into the end of the ridge allowing the vent the
pivot open and closed. Vent stops go either side of the vent to stop any lateral movement (so insert
stop / vent / stop). Attachment of the Bayliss XL autovents.
Use the bolts inserted in section (2) to attach the upper door track. The lower door runner 'D861' and
ramp threshold 'D088' push down and lock together.
Now that the greenhouse is finished and the door and vent/s are operating without interference then you
need to anchor the building down using 2" rawl plugs and screws. Use a 7mm masonry bit in a hammer
drill to create the holes.
They attach to the building during the glazing process (8) like a piece of glass with a black separator
above and below them.
Robinsons integral cantilever staging and shelving attaches to the inside of the greenhouse frame using
either square head bolts (insert four into each side glazing bar during construction of the sides (1a or
1b)) or rectangular 'crop head' bolts which can be fitted retrospectively (both sets of bolts accompany
the shelving/staging). This system allows the height of either the staging or the shelf to be set at an op-
erator specific height. Commonly the staging brackets are set 900mm from the cills though you can alter
this to suit the end user/s. The aluminium shelf / staging slats come in two lengths; (4'):1240mm 'D2002'
and (6'):1860mm 'D2003'. These slats can combine to create any length of staging required, i.e. 4'+6' =
10' etc...
Now that the main body of the structure is complete you can add; ridge caps, downpipe fittings, eave
bungs. Images showing cresting and finial attachment, this is often easiest to do after section (5) rather
than using the vent apertures later on (i.e. before glazing).
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