Robinsons 6' DWARF Lean-To Assembly Instructions Manual page 3

SECTION
TITLE
No
PARTS LIST
B
BASE
PREPARATION
P
1
SIDE
FRONT
2
REAR
3
JOINING THE
4
THREE SIDES
ROOF
5
REAR WALL
6
ATTACHMENT
VENT
7a
VENT SLAM
7b
DOOR/S
8
9
GLAZING
VENT
10
ATTACHMENT
DOOR
11
ATTACHMENT
ANCHORING
12
DOWN
OPTIONAL
13
LOUVRE
14
OPTIONAL
SHELVING
15
OPTIONAL
STAGING
FINISHING
16
TOUCHES
ASSEMBLY SYNOPSIS: IMPORTANT INFORMATION / CONSIDERATIONS
Most components should have a 'D' code punched into their metal surface. Identify and separate all like
for like components prior to assembly. The 'parts list' also separates parts into the various sections 1 -
12 shown below. Parts can also be identified by their profile pictures and stated lengths etc..
Base dimensions and recommendations. Ensure that your base is level as this will make assembly of
the building, especially the glazing of the roof much more straight forward.
Tools required. IMPORTANT: Use WD40 or similar in the glazing bar channels and insert the black glaz-
ing rubber prior to frame assembly.
Take the side glazing bars 'D609' with the rubber inserted and the diagonal braces 'D604', use 10mm
bolts to join them to the gutter and 15mm bolts to the cills (note how the head of the bolt slides into each
glazing bar during construction).
Again insuring that the gable framework is rubbered-up follow the diagrams to assemble each end of the
building. Make sure that you have inserted the extra bolts utilised in sections 4, 5 and 10. On the roof
and side corner bars not every rubber channel will require rubber unless it is to be utilised in a partition
(see separate manual and section P).
Take the side (1) and both gables (2 & 3) and join them together on your base. It is a good idea to tie
some ladders to the side to support them if you do not have anyone to hold them for you.
Attach the ridge and then the rubbered-up roof bars ensuring that they are fully butted up to the ridge
and down onto the gutter. Some tubular braces are supplied to add extra strength, they can be fitted
now or later with crop head bolts.
The main body of the frame is complete it can be attached to the wall. Make sure that the wall bars are
vertical and the ridge is horizontal then drill and screw the building to the wall. Do not attach the base to
the ground until section (12) as your building may not be square.
Once the vent is glazed add silicone to the vent sides and top. Stand the vent/s on their hinge (vent top)
and then leave the silicone to set.
The slam bar 'D079' can be moved up and down between the roof glazing bars so that it can be butted
down onto the pane of glass beneath, the autovent will be attached to it later on (9).
Construct the door using the diagrams and then leave to one side ready for attachment in section (10).
Layout the bar cappings and covers around the building like a sundial checking that all is present and
correct. You can also place the roof cappings in the gutters so they are closer to hand. You will notice
that your roof cappings (D541 / D547) are in one long section however you can cut this into two sections
if you wish due to the glass overlap in the roof. This will remove the bulge in the roof capping, however
keep the roof cover strips (D544) full lengths for the neatest finish. The glass in the ends has to bevel on
the black separator strip, this bevelling action allows the glass to tuck underneath the roof corner can-
opy. Use the capping and the self tapping screws to then hold the glass in place. The covers then en-
close the screw heads giving a neat finish.
Take the assembled vent and slide the vent hinge 'D866' into the end of the ridge allowing the vent the
pivot open and closed. Vent stops go either side of the vent to stop any lateral movement (so insert
stop / vent / stop). Attachment of the Bayliss XL autovents.
Utilise the bolts inserted in section (2) to attach the upper door track. The lower door runner 'D860' and
ramp threshold 'D087' push down and lock together. Please note that if you are putting the door on the
left hand gable (as you look at wall) the door track and runner will go from the doorway towards the gut-
ter and if you are putting the door on the right hand end the track and runner will open towards the wall.
Now that the greenhouse is finished and the door and vent/s are operating without interference then you
need to anchor the building down using 2" rawl plugs and screws. Use a 7mm masonry bit in a hammer
drill to create the holes.
They attach to the building during the glazing process (8) like a piece of glass with a black separator
above and below them.
Robinsons integral cantilever staging and shelving attaches to the inside of the greenhouse frame using
either square head bolts (insert four into each side glazing bar 'D609' during construction of the sides
(1)) or rectangular 'crop head' bolts which can be fitted retrospectively (both sets of bolts accompany the
shelving/staging). This system allows the height of either the staging or the shelf to be set at an operator
specific height. Commonly the staging brackets are set 900mm from the cills though you can alter this to
suit the end user/s. The aluminium shelf / staging slats come in two lengths; (4'):1240mm 'D2002' and
(6'):1860mm 'D2003'. These slats can combine to create any length of staging required, i.e. 4'+6' = 10'
etc...
Now that the main body of the structure is complete you can add; ridge caps, downpipe fittings, eave
bungs. Images showing cresting and finial attachment, this is often easiest to do after section (5) rather
than using the vent apertures later on (i.e. before glazing).
3