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Alien Aircraft Corp K-308 Assembly Instructions Manual

F4u-4 corsair
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F4U-4 Corsair
Assembly Instructions
NOTE: 3 bladed prop is for display
only. Use APC 9 X 3.8 SF Propeller
while operating model.
Alien Aircraft Corp. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not
cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Alien Aircraft Corp.s' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased
kit. Further, Alien Aircraft Corp. reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. The quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.
In that Alien Aircraft Corp. has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for
any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts
all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in severe injury to yourself and others.
Use safety glasses when running the motor. Do not run the motor in an area of loose gravel or sand; the propeller may throw such material in your
face or eyes. Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you run the motor. Keep these
items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of
shirt or jacket pockets into the prop. Always remove the LiPo battery from the plane before charging. Always use a charger designed to charge LiPo
batteries for charging the LiPo flight battery. Never leave the LiPo battery unattended while charging. If the battery becomes more than just warm,
discontinue charging.
WARRANTY
WARNING!!!
Alien Aircraft Corp.
TM
403-A Flomich Street
Holly Hill, FL. 32117
(386)676-0074
KIT # K-308
Designed by Tom Herr
© 2012 Alien Aircraft Corp

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Summary of Contents for Alien Aircraft Corp K-308

  • Page 1 In that Alien Aircraft Corp. has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
  • Page 2 3 ..Wing Sheet ....1/16” X 3” X 12” Balsa 1 ..K-308 PLAN A 1 .
  • Page 3 2 ..K-308 Decal Sheet 1 ..K-308 Plastic Canopy 2 ..K-308 Main Landing Gear Additional Items Required ( Not Included in Kit) Note: These are parts that we have used and are familiar with.
  • Page 4 Page 4...
  • Page 5 Page 5...

  • Page 6: Building Instructions

    Building Instructions: General Note: Cover the plans with wax paper before assembling your model to prevent the parts from sticking to the plan. Building the Tail Surfaces: 1... Glue R-2 and R-3 together. Bevel the front edge of R-3 as shown on the plan, and sand the other edges round.

  • Page 7: Building The Fuselage

    Building the Fuselage: 4...Make the two master stringers by gluing the F-1’s and F-2’s together over the drawing on the plan. 5...Pin keel pieces F-3 - F-6 into position on the fuselage plan as shown and glue them together. 6...Glue F-4A onto F-4 as shown . 7...Place formers F-7 thru F-20 into position.
  • Page 8 8...Place F-1/F-2 master stringer into position on the formers. Working from the back to the front, glue it to the for- mers. Make sure all of the formers maintain a 90 degree angle to the building board. 9...Glue the 1/8” sq. stringer in place immediately above the master stringer. It extends from F-19 at the rear and for- ward to F-7.
  • Page 9 12...Moisten both sides of the front half of F-22 with an ammonia based glass cleaner such as Windex and allow it to sit for several minutes. Place it into position on the fuse- lage. Working from the back to the front, glue F-22 securely to the formers.
  • Page 10 15...Cut, fit and glue the two upper front 1/8” sq. stringers into position between F-13 and F-7 as shown. Leave the front ends long, extending past F-7. They will be trimmed flush with the former later. 16...Cut, fit and glue the three top rear 1/8” sq. stringers into position as shown. The top stringer ends against the front of F-19.
  • Page 11 20...Using a 1/16” drill, drill down thru the slot between the F-4A’s thru F-4. The drill should be centered and tight against the back of the fin slot. 21...Cut a slot 3/32” wide and 3/32” deep in the right side of F-5 immediately in front of F-19 as shown.
  • Page 12 Remove the wire carefully while holding the tube in place. Carefully glue the tube into position making sure not to get glue inside the tube. Glue F-5A to the left side of F-5, trapping the tube in place. When the glue is dry, temporarily replace the wire to test for proper movement, then remove the wire.
  • Page 13 27...Glue the 1/8” sq. stringer in place immediately above the master stringer. It extends from F-19 at the rear for- ward to F-7. You can leave the front end long, to be cut off later. 28...Taper the back of F-21R and place it into position on the fuselage as shown with the taper down.
  • Page 14 31...Assemble and glue the the motor mount / battery box as shown using parts F-23, F-24, F-25 and F-26L&R. The firewall (F-23) should angle down and to the right. Use several small applications of thin C/A glue until it stops soaking into the ply- wood.
  • Page 15 35...Trim the top keel flush between formers F-13 and F-15. Trim the bottom keel flush between formers F-10 and F-14.Trim the stringers and sand flush with the formers. 36...Trim the bottoms from formers F-11-F-13. Trim the top from for- mer F-14. 37...Glue the two F-22A’s into position on the insides of the F-22’s.
  • Page 16 39...Glue F-28 into position on top of the F-22-A’s. 40...Glue F-27 into position on the top of the master stringers. 41...Glue the F-32 receiver mount into position on formers F-11 and F-12. It can be on either side of the fuselage. 42...Glue the F-30 cowl rings together and then glue the rings together...
  • Page 17 43...Sand the inside of the cowl smooth and round the front inside cor- ner as shown. 44...Glue the two F-29’s together. Now glue the F-30’s to the F-29. 45...Glue the cowl to the front of the fuselage. The hole in F-29 should be aligned with the hole in F-7 and the outside should be even.

  • Page 18: Building The Wing

    Building the Wing: Note: Cover the wing plan with wax paper to prevent the parts from sticking to the plan. Building the Center section: Note: the center section is built upside down. 48...Glue two 3/32” x 1/4” x 18” balsa strips together to make the 3/16”...
  • Page 19 52...Pin the rear brace “X-1” into position over W-1 at the location shown on the plan. Do not glue to the rib. 53...Glue ribs W-2 into position. They should be tight against shear web “A” and the rear brace. They should be glued to the spar and shear webs but not the rear brace.
  • Page 20 56...Glue the top trailing edge sheet (W-13) into position. 57...Glue the 1/4” sq. balsa leading edge into position. Make sure that the leading edge is completely seated in the notches in the wing ribs. 58...Glue the 3/32” sq. stringer spars into position. 59...Remove the X-1 brace.
  • Page 21 61...Remove the center section from the plan. Remove the support tabs from the back of the wing ribs. Insert the W-13A fillers between the trailing edge pieces and glue in place. 62...Install the lower 3/32” sq. stringer spars. 63...Sheet this side of the wing as you did the first side. 64...Trim the excess spars, sheet and trailing edges flush with the W-2 ribs.
  • Page 22 66...Cut the top sheet away from the dowel hole in the front of the W-1 ribs. Securely glue the dowel into position. 67...Test fit the wing to the fuselage. Adjust the dowel hole in F-10 if required to achieve the proper fit. Drill the hole in the trailing edge that lines up with the blind nut if required.
  • Page 23 71...Place shear webs “B” and “C” into position and glue to the front face of the spar. “B” 72...Pin the rear brace “X-2” into position over W-4 at the location shown on the plan. Do not glue to the rib. “C”...
  • Page 24 76...Cut a piece of 1/16” x 3/4” x 18” balsa to make the lower trailing edge. Make it slightly long so that it extend past the W-3 and W-5 ribs. Be sure the trailing edge is fully forward in the notches and glue in place.
  • Page 25 81...Tightly position the landing gear mount into the notches in the W-4 and W-5 ribs and glue in place. 82...Glue a 3/8” hardwood cube into place in the corner of the W-5A rib and the landing gear mount. The cube should be centered on the 3/32”...
  • Page 26 86...Drill a 3/32” hole thru the hardwood cube using the hole in W-14 as a guide. Be sure to hold the drill 90 degrees to the landing gear mount. Repeat steps 68 thru 86 to build the opposite inboard wing panel. Building the outboard wing panels: Build the right outboard wing panel.
  • Page 27 91...Glue rib W-6 into position. It should be tight against the shear web and the rear brace. It should be glued to the spar and shear web but not the rear brace. 92...Pin and glue ribs W-8 thru W-11 into position on the bottom spar 90 degrees to the building board.
  • Page 28 96...Glue the 1/4” sq. balsa leading edge into position. 97...Glue the 3/32” sq. stringer spars into position. The out- board end stops at W-11 and the inboard ends will be long extending past W-6. 98...Glue two W-17’s together to make the aileron spar. 99...Glue the aileron spar into position between ribs W-7 and W-11.
  • Page 29 101...Glue the top W-12 trailing edge into position. 102...Remove the wing from the plan. Break or cut off the support tabs from the lower back end of the ribs. Glue W-18 into position between the spar and the trailing edge, on top of ribs W-7 and W-8.
  • Page 30 106...Glue the bottom wing tip into position onto rib W-11. Lay the wing upside down on your building board. Hold it so it is level front to back. Press the lower wing tip sheet into contact with the top sheet and press both into contact with the building board.
  • Page 31 Building the ailerons: Build the right aileron. 110...Glue two A-2’s together to make the aileron lead- ing edge. 111...Glue the A-2 onto and flush with the front of A-1B. 112...Position A-3 at the inboard end of the aileron. The edge should be flush with the end of A-1 and be tight against A-2.
  • Page 32 115...Trim or sand an angle on the top of the A-2’s to match the angle of the ribs as shown on the plan. Glue the top A-9 sheet in place. 116...Draw a line centered on the front of the aileron. Draw a line 1/8”...
  • Page 33 122...Mark the location of B-1 thru B-5 on the bottom of the wing. Glue B-1 thru B-5 onto the bottom of the wing. They should be vertical and be centered left and right. 123...Glue the three 1/8” sq. stringers in place. 124...Glue the two B-6’s in place on the sides of the formers.
  • Page 34 126...Remove the wax paper from the assembly. With the wing securely attached with the screw, sand the bottom of the fuselage smooth and flush with the bottom of the fuselage. 127...Cut the holes in the top center section sheet for the aileron servo wire access in the location shown on the plan.

  • Page 35: Final Assembly

    131...Slide the wing joiners J-2 into the inboard panels. Test fit the outboard panels to make sure that they fit prop- erly. The J-2 joiners should be tight against the spars and tight against the back of the shear web. Glue the wing join- er into the wing with 5 minute epoxy.
  • Page 36 134...Carefully cut the covering away from areas on the fin that will make contact with the fuselage. Place the fin into position and make sure that it is straight and square. 135...Insert the tail wheel wire into the fuselage from the bottom. It should turn freely.
  • Page 37 138...Glue the fin into position. Use care not to get glue on the tail wheel wire. 139...Attach the rudder with the hinges and glue in place. Glue the hinges with thin C/A and the wire with 5 minute epoxy. 140...Drill a hole in the filler between the stringers for the rudder pushrod.
  • Page 38 142...Attach the elevators to the stabilizer with the hinges and glue in place. 143...Cut the covering away from the stabilizer in the areas that makes contact with the fuselage. Place the stabilizer into position in the fuselage. Make sure that it is straight and square and then glue it into position.
  • Page 39 147...Glue the rudder control horn into position. Drill 1/16” holes for the pins to pass thru. Trim the covering away from the wood in the area where the base of the control horn makes contact. When the glue is dry, cut off the excess pins flush. 148...Install the rudder pushrod into the housing from the rear.
  • Page 40 154...Glue a piece of velcro in place to mount the receiver. Mount the receiver to the fuselage. Plug the servos and speed controller into the receiver. We just let the speed controller hang from its wires. 155...Attach the ailerons to the wings with the hinges and glue in place.
  • Page 41 158...Glue the aileron control horns to the bottom of the ailerons in the position shown on the plan. Drill 1/16” holes for the pins to fit into. 159...Bend the aileron pushrods to the shape shown on the plan. Install the pushrods and attach them to the servos and control horns with with Mini E/Z Links.
  • Page 42 163...Epoxy the gear doors to the landing gear legs with 5 minute epoxy. 164...Trim the canopy on the trim lines. Test fit it on the fuselage. 165...Mask the clear areas on the canopy and paint the framework. 166...Place the canopy on the fuselage. Mark where the canopy contacts the fuselage.
  • Page 43 LIPO BATTERY SAFETY ALERT Lithium Battery Fires Lithium batteries are becoming very popular for powering the control and power systems in our models. This is true because of their very high energy density (amp-hrs/wt. ratio) compared to NiCd’s or other batteries. With high energy comes increased risk in their use.