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3. Kit Lumber
Strips and sheets of solid basswood or birch
plywood are supplied in the kit. Sort the
wood in the kit by thickness to save time.
After selecting and cutting what you need,
return the remaining stock to the proper
thickness and wood-type pile. Don't worry
about using a piece for one item intended for
another. Model Airways supplies enough
extra wood to complete the model before
running out.
4. Britannia Metal Parts
These parts will require final finishing before
mounting on the model. First, remove mold
joint flash with a #11 hobby blade, then file
or sand with fine sandpaper. Clean out any
holes using a drill bit or reamer. Some of the
smaller holes may not be completely formed.
Also, if another part must fit in the hole,
ream the hole if necessary for the parts to fit.
Wash fittings in dishwashing liquid and
warm water to remove traces of mold release
agent and the body oils your fingers deposit.
Allow to dry thoroughly.
5. Photo-Etched Parts
Cut the sprues off the parts with a sharp
hobby blade on a hardwood backing, or use a
sprue cutter. File any remaining sprue to
smooth out the part. Some photo-etched
parts must be bent to conform to the shape
shown on the plans, and lengths or configu-
ration may be modified for the same part to
fit different locations. Bend parts using flat
nose or needle nose pliers. Don't try bending
with your fingers.
6. Rigging Cord
On the real aircraft, the flying and landing
wire rigging and cross brace wires are 1/8"-
or 5/32"-diameter stranded steel wire. For
the kit, however, gray nylon cord is provid-
ed to make it easier to rig. All of the cord
should be beeswaxed to protect it and cut
down fuzz.
View of
wing
struts
on
Ken
Hyde's
restored
Jenny
7. Setting Up the Plans
Build the wings, vertical and horizontal sta-
bilizers, elevator, and fuselage sides directly
on the plan. Place the plan on your building
board and cover the plan with waxed paper
or plastic wrap. Be careful applying glue,
especially super glue. Although the waxed
paper or plastic wrap protects the plan some-
what, you could accidentally glue the protec-
tive sheet to the model parts, or even to the
plan itself. Plastic wrap is really a bear to
remove if it is accidentally glued to the
model with super glue. Use small applicators
such as a commercial Microbrush or tooth-
pick for applying the glue. You don't need a
lot of glue for the aircraft's fragile parts.
8. Part Identification and Readiness
All the laser-cut wood, britannia castings,
and photo-etched copper and aluminum
parts can be identified by the patterns and
sketches shown on Plan Sheet 1.
Before starting each stage, have all the parts
required for the stage, such as laser-cut
parts, britannia castings, photo-etched parts,
stripwood, rod, and rigging, identified and
ready to use. Sand wood parts as required
to get rid of any fuzziness and prepare the
castings and photo-etched parts as noted
in Paragraph 4 and 5 above.
9. Bending Wood Strips
During the process of building the model,
you will be advised to heat-bend some wood,
such as fuselage longerons, wing tips, and
wing skids, to conform to a specific curve. A
good way to do this is to use an aluminum
tip with a flat end filed to a 45-degree angle.
Fit the tip in a 20- to 30-watt soldering iron.
First, soak the wood in cold water for 5 or 10
minutes. Remove the wood and let it sit and
dry out a bit for another 5 minutes. It won't
completely dry out. Then take the soldering
iron an press on the wood, moving along
bending the wood to shape as you go. If
necessary, press over a form shaped to the
6
curve. The heat applied will easily bend the
wood, and the formed shape will remain after
the wood is dry.
Painting & Staining the Model
Jenny
The
model need not be painted or fin-
ished at all. However, it is recommended that
you stain the wood parts and seal the britan-
nia castings for protection. A light tan stain
on all wooden parts will help to make the
entire structure uniform in color.
Some parts could be painted, such as the
radiator and the fuselage cockpit cowl. This
would add a nice contrast to the otherwise
unpainted model. Since many color schemes
were used on various models, you will need
to do a little research on your own for proper
colors. You could also paint fittings such as
wing strut fittings and fuselage clips copper
color or black for contrast. If black is your
choice, consider using Blacken-It, a chemical
rather than paint. Steel rod represents steel
tubing on the real aircraft. These can be left
as is or painted a light gray color. Cast cock-
pit fittings can also be painted gray or just
varnished.
Sand all wood sur-
Sanding and cleaning:
faces with 220-grit dry sandpaper, followed
by 400-grit, and wipe off all dust thoroughly.
A tack rag would be helpful.
A soft artist quality
Brushing and stains:
brush can be used to apply stain to the parts.
Model Shipways or Minwax brand stains are
excellent for staining. For the castings, a
clear flat finish is suggested. This finish
could also be applied over the stained wood
parts as added protection.
If parts are to be painted, use
Painting:
a primer first, then paint. Any of the model
paints are satisfactory. For this model,
flat paints will probably look better than
gloss paints.
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