Rigging Final Fuselage Cross Brace Wires; Building And Installing The Prop; Stage 6: Building And Installing The Landing Gear And Tail Skid; Installing The Tail Skid And Supports - Model Airways CURTISS JN-4D JENNY Instruction Manual

sides of the water pump and the lower
holes you drilled in the sides of the V intake
manifold.
You should have already installed the
Note:
wire between the upper holes of the V intake
manifold up to the ends of the outlet water
pipes on the engine, as these could be
installed on the engine earlier.
Linkages from the throttles:
was already discussed in Stage 4 when the
throttles were installed in the cockpit, and in
this Stage when the carburetor was installed.
Refer back to these paragraphs, then make
the connection at the carburetor.
5. Rigging Final Fuselage
Cross Brace Wires
Now that all parts are installed in the fuse-
lage, you can rig the rest of the cross brace
wires using the 0.010" gray nylon cord. The
locations of the turnbuckles and wires are
shown on the plans.

STAGE 6: BUILDING AND INSTALLING THE LANDING GEAR AND TAIL SKID

Most of the previous work on the fuselage
could be installed while the fuselage is still in
the building jig. It must now be removed for
installation of the landing gear. Plan Sheet 4
details the landing gear and tail skid. Plan
Sheet 6 shows the cross bracing between the
landing gear struts, which you may want to
do at this time for added strength. The fol-
lowing parts are required for this stage:
Laser-Cut Wood Parts
Front landing gear struts – 2 of L1
Rear landing gear struts – 2 of L2
Landing gear strut lower end blocks –
2 of L3
Landing gear front fairing strut – 1 of L4
Landing gear rear fairing strut – 1 of L5
Tail skid – 1 of L11
Britannia Castings
Front upper left landing gear strut fitting –
1 of L7L
Front upper right landing gear strut fitting –
1 of L7R
Rear upper left landing gear strut fitting –
1 of L8L
Rear upper right landing gear strut fitting –
1 of L8R
Landing gear axle shock cord fittings –
4 of L9
Tail skid support (Part 1) – 1 of L10A
Tail skid support (Part 2) – 1 of L10B
Wheel hubs – 2 of L12
Wheel half-rims – 4 of L13
Photo-Etched Copper Parts
Landing gear strut end lower plates –
2 of L6
Brace wire end fittings – 8 of R1
Turnbuckles – 4 of R3B (long)
Photo-Etched Nickel Silver Parts
Wheel spokes – 4 of L14
Rubber Parts
1-5/8" o.d. black O ring tires – 2
Steel Rod
(cut to length as required)
Vertical struts in way of tail skid in

6. Building and Installing the Prop

The prop shown on the plans is patterned
after the white oak Flottorp tractor prop
manufactured by the Flottorp Manufacturing
Co. in Chicago. It's a fairly straight prop.
Another popular prop had heavily curved
ends. This was a Paragon tractor prop
(manufacturer unknown), made of six
This linkage laminations of walnut or mahogany.
First, insert a dowel through the center hole
of all nine prop laminates (E44). Check to
make sure the edges of all the laminates are
flush. You may need to flip-flop several lami-
nates until all the outer edges are aligned.
Then, glue the laser-cut laminates together
one by one. Check the overall thickness of
the laminates and sand to the proper thick-
ness (9/32"). You may be able to eliminate
one of the laminates depending on how
much glue is used, so check the thickness
after the eighth laminate has been glued.
Next, taper the ends of the prop as shown
PAINT UPPER AND BOTTOM STRUTS
GRAY OR SILVER TO REPRESENT
GLUE TOGETHER
WRAP FAKE SHOCK CORD
(.021" WHITE NYLON)
AROUND L10 AND L11
ROUND EDGES
fuselage – 1/32"-diameter
Landing gear axle – 3/32"-diameter
Rigging Cord
Cross bracing wires – 0.010" gray nylon
cord
Fake shock cord for axle and tail skid –
0.021"-diameter white nylon cord
Wrapping cord for landing gear struts –
0.008"-diameter black nylon cord
The tail skid is fairly easy to install, but the
landing gear is more difficult to assemble
accurately. Remove the fuselage from the
building jig and flip it over. You could place
the fuselage back in the building jig, but it
will require some additional shims or
clamps. Place the fuselage in the jig or
another jig of your choice so the upper aft
longerons (lower ones with fuselage upside
down) are parallel to the building board.
FIG. 6-1 TAIL SKID INSTALLATION
A STEEL BOX STRUT
SUPPORT CASTING
(PART 1 AND 2)
L10A
L10B
ABOVE TAPE
LASER-CUT
SKID L11
(cut to length as required)
30
on the plans. Before carving the shape of the
prop, mark the leading and trailing edges,
then carve to the cross section shapes shown
on the plan.
The real prop has copper sheet edges at
the tips. For the model, use the self-adhe-
sive copper tape in the kit, or fake it with
copper paint.
This next step can really wait until the entire
model if finished but is discussed here for
convenience. Of course, no one would ever
forget to install the prop. Slide one of the
prop clamp plates (E18) onto the prop shaft,
then install the prop. Finally add the outer
clamp plate, then glue on the hub (E19). If
you want the prop to rotate, glue the clamp
plates to the prop and make sure the hole
has enough play to rotate.
illustrates the prop construction
Figure 5-20
and installation.
GLUE – PIN
1/32"-DIA. STEEL RODS
PIN
COPPER TAPE
COPPER TAPE OR
BRASS STRIP
The fairing struts between the landing gear
are parallel to the upper longerons, so this
will give you an accurate way to measure.
1. Installing the Tail Skid
and Supports
The tail skid is composed of a laser-cut wood-
en skid (L11) and a britannia cast support
made up of two parts (L10A and L10B).
Round the laser-cut skid above the center
hole. Add self-adhesive copper tape around
the skid in way of the hole. Glue the support
parts together (L10A and L10B). Fit the skid
in the support and pin the lower end into the
support fitting. At the top end, wrap 0.021"
white nylon cord around the skid and sup-
port. This cord represents a shock cord. At
the bottom of the skid, add a brass strip
or self-adhesive copper tape to represent