Maytag ATB1821AR series Service Manual page 35

To avoid risk of electrical shock that can cause death or severe personal injury, disconnect unit from power before
servicing unless tests require power. Discharge capacitors through a 10,000-ohm resistor before handling. Wires
removed during disassembly must be replaced on correct terminals to ensure proper grounding and polarization.
Icemaker Troubleshooting Chart
No Ice or Low Ice Production
I.
1. Freezer not cold enough
2. Broken locking tab on vertical cam
3. Module shut-off switch and contacts shorted & burned
4. Motor stalled or stripped
5. Check ejector position
A. Park (ejector at 2:30 position)
1. Contaminated module (Doesn't run when jumped
through "T" and "H" probe holes)
2. Open or missing thermostat
3. No power to ice maker (harness)
4. Jammed cubes (Notice cube size; hollow?)
5. Little or no water to ice maker (Notice cube size)
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
i.
j.
6. Bail shut-off arm in vacation mode — no ice
7. Bail shut-off arm binds when raised or lowered
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
8. Little or no Alumilastic on thermostat
9. Housing-to-mold screws not seated
10. Heater not staked in mold
11. Wrong heater temperature
12. Broken shut-off lever (mislocated shut-off switch)
B. Ejector in 3:00 position
1. Contamination
2. Jammed cubes (Notice cube size; hollow?)
3. Ice maker or refrigerator not level
4. No power to ice maker
5. Excessive water-fill volume
6. Rack of cubes fell back into mold during ejection
C. Ejector in 4:00 position
1. Contamination
2. Thermostat out of calibration
3. Open heater circuit (motor should be oscillating)
4. Little or no Alumilastic on thermostat
5. Heater not staked in mold
6. Broken locking tabs on vertical cam
©2005 Maytag Services
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Frozen fill tube (leaky water valve)
Kinked water tube
Clogged water tube to ice maker or refrigerator
Clogged water valve
No power to water valve
Low water pressure
Open heater circuit
Closed thermostat
Damaged heater tulips on module
Heater pins too short; don't contact module
Water or ice in actuator/housing hole
Housing hole small or burred
Actuator O.D. large or burred
Module housing damaged
Bail shut-off arm misformed
WARNING
1. Adjust or repair freezer
2. Replace ice maker
3. Replace ice maker
4. Replace ice maker
1. Replace ice maker
2. Replace ice maker
3. Trace power to locate discontinuity
4. Clear cube jam; check fill tube & fill cup
a. Replace water valve
b. Un-kink water tube; check for weak spots
c. Clear stoppage
d. Replace water valve
e. Trace power to locate discontinuity
f. Pressure must be 20 to 120 psi (1.4 to 8.2 bar).
Test by jumping "T" to "H" for 7.5 seconds;
then remove jumpers; catch water in glass.
Should be about 140 cc's.
g. Replace ice maker
h. Replace ice maker
i. Replace ice maker
j. Replace ice maker
6. Lower bail shut-off arm to begin cycle
a. Remove module; dry actuator & housing holes
b. Repair or replace ice maker
c. Replace ice maker
d. Replace ice maker
e. Replace bail shut-off arm
8. Apply fresh coat of Alumilastic to thermostat
9. Tighten housing-to-mold screws (20-26 in. lb.
or 22.8-29.6 cm/kg)
10. Replace ice maker
11. Replace ice maker
12. Replace ice maker
1. Replace ice maker
2. Clear cube jam
3. Level as necessary
4. Trace power to locate discontinuity
5. Adjust volume screw on module, change water
valve or lower water pressure
6. Install new fill cup; check fill tube assembly
1. Replace ice maker
2. Replace ice maker
3. Replace ice maker
4. Apply fresh coat of Alumilastic to thermostat
5. Replace ice maker
6. Replace ice maker
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