Dickinson P9000 Operating And Installation Instruction page 12

Horizontal Flue Exit
We recommend the flue be as straight as possible but also we recognize that
in some installations it may be necessary to vent out of a wall. In these cases
you would need to follow a specific method to ensure the draft does not slow
down to the point it affects the heater.
To exit out of a wall you would need to ensure the bend is made with the
entire 28" length of pipe as this will ensure a gradual slope rather than a
severe bend. The bend must start at the top of the heater and end where the
pipe exits the wall. It will be necessary to place the spacer springs - located
on the inner pipe - accordingly so that the inner and outer pipes do not touch
at any point. This could create hot spots which will impede the cooler fresh
air that is coming back down the outer pipe to supply the flame.
In installations where the chimney must travel through a wall thicker than 3"
or walls lined with insulation it may be necessary to line the exit hole with a
length of stainless steel pipe to protect the inside of the wall as there may be
some heat buildup.
Deckfitting and Exhaust Cap
Step - 1 Measure, cut or drill a 3" hole through the deck, ceiling or
wall where the exhaust cap will be located.
Step - 2 Make sure the sealing gasket is installed under the above
deck-flange before screwing down the fitting. Holding the
deck flange firmly in position and secure with the 6 stainless
screws supplied.
Step - 3 Attach the dress ring on the inside, underneath the fitting
with the 4 stainless screws supplied. (Make sure that the
opening lines up with the underside of the deckfiting or the
pipe will not fit correctly).
Step - 4 Install the flexible pipe on the heater. It is very important
that the small pipe fit tightly against the flue collar on the
heater (even adding some muffler tape or tin foil to fill in
any gaps of the pipe to ensure an airtight connection, the cap
and any other connections are not as important.
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