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Adjusting Treadless Headset
Adjusting 1¼ Threadless Headset
While the Bike Friday threadless
headset appears a bit different
than some, the concept is the same.
Headset adjustment is achieved by
increasing or decreasing preload on
the bearings via a single hex bolt.
Directly below the stem riser base
is the [1] locking headset spacer. It
looks like a seatpost collar binder.
This piece locks down onto the
steerer tube allowing the [2] headset spacer adjuster to push off
the locking spacer and apply downward pressure on the headset
(bearing preload).
The locking headset spacer bolt should never be loosened for
adjustments; it should only be loosened if disassembly of the fork
and headset is required.
To adjust the headset, simply tighten the bolt on [2] head-
set spacer adjuster to increase preload or unscrew the bolt to
decrease preload. Make small adjustments; start with ¼ turns of
the bolt. The headset spacer adjuster is a two-piece par that is
internally cone shaped so the more you tighten the bolt the more
the clamp squeezes the cone.
Using Your Adjustable Rear Dropouts
Our adjustable rear dropout is designed specifically for the Silk.
It allows you to remove and reinstall the wheel without having to
re-tension the belt each time.
Determining Belt Tension
Proper belt tension is about ½-inch of deflection (placing your
finger on the midpoint of the upper half of the belt and pushing
down). The goal is to have enough tension so avoid slipping. For
Gates CenterTrack, use slippage as your guide.
Making Adjustments to Your Dropout
The aluminum dropouts on your Silk adjust in small steps. Each
adjusting step is 1.25mm. Looking at the dropouts, you see upper
and lower notched slots with a bolt in each. Each notch is a step.
Each bolt can be positioned anywhere along the slot, in those
notches, one step at a time. Adjustments are made by alternately
stepping in one slot (while pivoting on the other) and then step-
ping on the other slot while pivoting in the first.
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2
Fig. 54 Threadless headset.
800-777-0258 • +1-541-687-0487
Adjusting Rear Dropouts
Determine if you need to
increase or decrease tension
(determine which way you
want to move the aluminum
dropout).
•
Determine which bolt is
the pivot and which the
step.
•
Move
in
the
desired
direction.
Theory:
•
Determine which way to move the dropouts. Moving them
closer to the crank will decrease belt tension. Moving the
dropouts further from the crank will increase tension.
•
Look at the upper and lower bolt. The bolt that is slightly
closer to the direction you want to move is the pivot bolt. It
can be either bolt. If this is the upper bolt, then the lower bolt
becomes the step bolt. Remove the step bolt. Pivot (rock) the
aluminum dropout on the loosened pivot bolt, in the desired
direction, and reinstall the removed step bolt. If this is not
enough movement of the dropout, then you will need to repeat
the process EXCEPT the original pivot bolt becomes the step
bolt while the original step bolt becomes the pivot.
Application:
•
A 5mm hex wrench is required. A 15mm (or adjustable) wrench
is also recommended.
•
Determine which way you are stepping or rocking the alumi-
num dropout. If the upper bolt is the pivot (it is incrementally
farther in the direction you want to go) slightly loosen this
bolt, on both sides of the bike, using the 5 mm hex wrench.
•
Fully remove the other bolt (both sides of the bike). Note
which notch (or step) it was in; the bolt will be going back into
the next hole over.
•
Pivot the dropout in the direction you want. The easiest way to
rotate the aluminum part back is with a 15mm (or adjustable)
wrench on the axle nuts. Use the wrench on the axle to put
tension on the belt while you insert the previously removed
step bolt into the hole. Repeat on the other side.
•
Tighten all four bolts.
800-777-0258 • +1-541-687-0487
Fig. 55 Adjustable rear dropouts
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