CONTENTS LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS ..............WIND THE BOBBIN ....................PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD ................STITCH SELECTOR / STITCH LENGTH/STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS ..... WHAT TO DO WHEN .................... SERVICEACCESS FACECOVER ..................FRONT COVER ..................REAR COVER ..................MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION ..................
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15208400 WIND THE BOBBIN PULL THE HANDWHEEL OUT. DRAW THREAD FROM SPOOL THROUGH BOBBIN WINDING TENSION DISCS (A). PULL END OF THREAD THROUGH BOBBIN AS SHOWN. PLACE BOBBIN ONTO BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE (B) WITH END OF THREAD COMING FROM THE TOP OF THE BOBBIN.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS. DOTTED LINES SHOW PLACES WHERE LOOPS AND THEN IS PULLED TIGHT. RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15208400 WHAT TO DO WHEN CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 1. SKIPPING 1. NEEDLE IS NOT INSERTED INSERT THE NEEDLE PROPERLY. STITCHES PROPERLY. 2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN. CHANGE THE NEEDLE, 3. INCORRECTLY THREADED RETHREAD.
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SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15208400 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE &BREAKING START WITH MEDIUM SPEED. 1. INITIAL SEWING SPEED IS UPPER TOO FAST. THREAD 2. THREAD PATH IS USE THE PROPER THREAD INCORRECT. PATH. 3. NEEDLE IS BENT OR DULL, REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE.
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SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 6. NOISY 1. BACKLASH BETWEEN SEE MECHANICAL P.17 OPERATION SHUTTLE HOOK GEAR AND ADJUSTMENT "CLEARANCE LOWERSHAFTGEARISTOO BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOt_ GREAT. (NO.2)". 2. LOWER SHAFT GEARIS ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS LOOSE.
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400 SERVICE ACCESS FRONT COVER FRONT COVER TO REMOVE LOOSEN THE SET SCREWS (A), (B),AND (C), AND THEN, REMOVE THE FRONT COVER BY REMOVING THE SET SCREWS (D) ,(E),(F),(G),(H),(I)AND (J). NOTE: UNHOOK THE TAB (L) FROM THE REAR COVER WHEN REMOVING FRONT COVER.
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400 SERVICE ACCESS REAR COVER TO REMOVE REMOVE THE FACE COVER AND FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 8, 9) LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS (A), (B) AND (C), AND REMOVE SETSCREWS (D), (E) AND (F). PULL UP THE SPOOL PINS. REMOVE THE MACHINE SOCKET. REMOVE THE REAR COVER CLEARING THE PRESSER FOOT LIFTER FROM THE SLIT ON THE COVER.
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION TO CHECK: THE STANDARD UPPER THREAD TENSION SHOULD BE 65 - 95g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD (COTTON THREAD #50) IN THE DIRECTION OF (B) WITH SETTING THE TENSION DIAL AT "3". (MAKE SURE THE FOOT SHOULD BE LOWERED.) IF THE TENSION IS OUT OF THE STANDARD RANGE, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BOBBIN TENSION TO CHECK: SET THE BOBBIN IN THE BOBBIN CASE AND PASS THE THREAD (COTTON #50) THROUGH THE TENSION SPRING. THE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION SHOULD BE 45 - 55g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD IN THE DIRECTION OF (B).
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT TO CHECK: RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (A). THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PRESSER FOOT (D) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (E) SHOULD BE 6.0MM (0.24"). ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE SCREW (B) AND TAKE THE LAMP SOCKET OFF. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER AND LOOSEN THE SCREW (C) ON THE PRESSER BAR HOLDER.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK: ADJUST THE NEEDLE SWING ACCORDING TO THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE, IF THE NEEDLE BAR STARTS MOVING SIDEWAYS WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC AT SEWING THE ZIGZAG PATTERN (WITH MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH). ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL WITH MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH, AND REMOVE...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE DROP TO CHECK: WHEN THE NEEDLE SWINGSIN MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH, THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE BOTH ENDS OF NEEDLE HOLE ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND THE NEEDLE DROP POSITIONS SHOULD BE EQUAL. IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENTPROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE PLATE.
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.l) TO CHECK: THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD BE -0.05 -+0.10MM. IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER. SET THE PATTERN SELECT DIAL "...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.2) TO CHECK: USE THIS ADJUSTMENT NO.2 WHEN ADJUSTMENT NO.1 CAN NOT BE USED. THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD BE -0.05 - +0.10mm. ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT "C i D ", WIDTH SELECTOR DIAL AT"...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING STITCH LENGTH: SET AT 4. NEEDLE BAR: AT ITS HIGHEST POSITION. TO CHECK: RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT. PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE #68367 (A) ON THE NEEDLE PLATE. TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND AND CHECK THE FEED DOG HEIGHT.
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING STITCH SELECTOR: "C i Z)". WIDTH SELECTOR DIAL: SET AT 5 TO CHECK: OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER. REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A). REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B) ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER.
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385 15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE MACHINE SETTING STITCH SELECTOR: "C : D WIDTH SELECTOR DIAL: SET AT 5 TO CHECK: OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER. REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A). REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B) ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER.
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLEFEEDBALANCE TO CHECK: WHEN SEWING BUTTONHOLE, THE STITCHES ON EACH SIDE OF BUTTONHOLE SHOULD BE THE SAME STITCH DENSITY. THE RANGE OF 9-12 STITCHES IN THE RIGHT SIDE ROW "BACKWARD FEEDING" AGAINST 10 STITCHES IN THE LEFT SIDE ROW "FORWARD FEEDING"...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BARTACKFEED OFBUTTONHOLE TO CHECK: IF THE MATERIAL IS FEED FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN SEWING BARTACK ON BUTTONHOLE, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR CONTROL AT " _ " AND THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT "4".
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM FOLLOWER TO CHECK: TOO NARROW CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE CAM FOLLOWER AND THE TOP CONVEX OF ZIGZAG CAM MAY OFTEN CAUSE DIFFICULTY IN TURNING OF THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL, OR CAN NOT CORRECT PATTERN. ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL "...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION TO CHECK: IF THE MOTOR BELT TENSION IS TOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE, IT CAN CAUSE A BELT NOISE: IF THE TENSION IS TOO TIGHT, IT CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO RUN SLOWLY AND THE MOTOR TO OVERLOAD;...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15208400 WIRING WIRING FOR MACHINE SOCKET UNIT /_ RIDGE M : MOTOR L : LAMP RIDGE _ WIRING DIAGRAM FOOT CONTROL MOTOR ATTACHMENT LAMP SOCKET MOTOR...
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400 OILING FACTORY LUBRICATED PARTS WILL PROVIDE YEARS OF HOUSEHOLD SEWING WITHOUT ROUTINE OILING. HOWEVER, WHENEVER THE MACHINE IS BEING SERVICED, CHECK TO SEE IF ANY PARTS NEED TO BE LUBRICATED. USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS (A, B, C, D, E) INDICATED BY BLACK ARROWS.