Faceplate And Chuck Turnings - Craftsman 351.217170 Operator's Manual

DRILLING
There are several methods of using the lathe for drilling cen-
ter holes through wood stock. When the drill is properly
mounted, centering of the hole is automatic.
• One method is to mount a drill in the tailstock. The work-
piece is held and revolved by the headstock. If the drill has
a Morse taper shank, it can be mounted directly in some
tailstock rams. Otherwise, it can be mounted in a chuck fit-
ted with the proper type shank.
• Another method of holding the drill is to mount it in the
headstock using a 4-jaw (metal-lathe) chuck or a Jacobs
chuck. When this method is employed, there is no accurate
support for the workpiece so that center drilling is difficult.
However, cross drilling, or drilling random holes through
stock can be accomplished quickly in this manner.
PLANNING VARIOUS CUTS
The circumference of a faceplate turning is roughed-out and
finished in the same manner that a spindle is worked.
Practically all of the balance of the operations, however, are
done by using scraping methods. A few of the standard con-
tours which must often be tuned are illustrated in the accom-
panying sketch which also shows the proper chisels for shap-
ing these contours. Any roughing out to depth is generally
accomplished with the gouge held in the scraping position.
Use of Template
Spear Skew
Nose Nose
Figure 51
• For cross drilling flat sided work, use a (metal-lathe) drill
pad in the tailstock and place a scrap board between the
pad and the work. For cross drilling round stock, use a
(metal-lathe) crotch center in the tailstock. Large work-
pieces can be located on supporting blocks laid upon the
lathe bed. They can be held by hand or can be supported
from behind by a drill pad mounted in the tailstock.
Figure 52 - Cross Drilling
FACEPLATE AND CHUCK TURNINGS
PLANNING THE WORK
Make a layout first, to provide a visual pattern to follow while
working the turning. Pattern can be laid out in the same man-
ner as spindle patterns - or templates can be made which
can be held against the work for visual comparison. Circles to
locate the various critical points (at which the contours of the
faceplate take distinct form) can be quickly scribed on the
rotating work by using the dividers.
Figure 53
16
Round Nose Spear-Point
Chisel Chisel
Figure 54
Measuring
Depth
RECOMMENDED SPEED
Always follow recommended speed to do faceplate and chuck
turning depending upon the size and thickness of workpiece.
ROUGH FINISH
SQUARE THICKNESS RPM RPM
4 to 7" Up to 2" 1300 2000
4 to 7" 2 to 4" 1200 2000
4 to 7" 4" Plus 1000 2000
8 to 11" Up to 2" 1000 1800
8 to 11" 2 to 4" 900 1700
8 to 11" 4" Plus 700 1400
12 to 15" Up to 2" 700 1200
12 to 15" 2 to 4" 550 1000
12 to 15" 4" Plus 400 800
DEEP RECESSES
• The first step is to remove as much wood as possible by
boring into the center with the largest wood bit available.
This can be accomplished as illustrated, or in any of the
ways shown on pages 10-12. Be careful to measure in
advance the depth to which drill can be allowed to go.
Figure 55 - Boring to Depth
Now, remove the bulk of the waste (to rough-out the
desired recess) by scraping with the round-nose chisel or
the gouge. Remove up to within _/8" of finished size in this
manner. Finish off the inside circumference by scraping
with the spearpoint chisel or skew. Smooth the bottom of
the recess by scraping it flat with the flatnose chisel.