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Electrical: Engine Starting, Charging
can check). Solder in the new brushes and replace the regulator/brush assembly.
[Tip from Chuck Jaxel] You should use rosin-core solder specific for electrical or
electronic use. DO NOT USE PLUMBER's solder, you will create a bad connection.
Solder should have shiny appearance when it
cools, A dull gray looking finish indicates a
cold joint, another bad thing. Practice on
some old wire, find a junk radio or something
and practice on that board, its not hard, just
takes a couple of times to get it right.
[Don Foster] When you solder the heavier
alternator brush wiring, be aware that you
might need extra heat if the braid (the wire
going to the brush) is heavy, or if the
connection is large. I don't know what heat
range iron (Wattage) is in your keet, but you
might need a soldering gun (150-250 Watts)
to deliver the heat. A small iron (25 Watts) may not do it.
[Randy Starkie] There was a question about how to drill out the solder connection
to facilitate the installation of the new brushes. I have included an image here that
shows the assembly. I use a flat file to file the surface smooth. This gives a little
more definition to the target area as well as providing a good surface to get the
1/16" drill started. Since the solder is soft the drill follows the path of least
resistance removing the solder/leaving the holder intact (you will be drill towards
the brush in each case). Once the solder connection is drilled out the old brush is
released and basically pops out due to it's spring load. I apply paste flux to the
lead of each brush. If you have trouble getting your solder to stick or flow out it is
most likely because of the lack of flux. The new brushes from Volvo (part number
1362710- less than $4) have a solid wire lead on them that makes it easy to
thread them into the brush holder. Pull them down far enough that the sides of the
brush holder support the brush in an upright position. At that point bend the woven
wire at a right angle to the holder to keep each brush positioned properly. Use a
clip as shown in the photo to hold the brush gently against the spring. Apply the
heat of an iron to the junction of the brush holder and the woven wire. Take a
relatively small diameter piece of solder that has been dipped in the flux and touch
it to the brush holder where the woven wire exits. Use enough solder so that the
drill hole fills in around the woven wire (don't get over zealous here you don't want
solder dripping out the backside into the brush holders). Trim the excess wire off
and reinstall the assembly. Be sure to tilt the assembly as you position it so that
when you press the assembly into place the brushes are pushed back down into the
brush holders.
Soldering Tips: Later Wires Crimped and Soldered at Terminals. [Tips from
Don "Solder King" Foster] My '90 car has this later crimped-and-soldered
connection. First, I flowed fresh, clean solder into the crimped connection. Next, I
used a solder sucker to pull the solder out. Then I re-flowed and resucked. And
again heated the connection and rapped it on the bench to fling out the remains of
the solder. Then I was able to pull the brush out, leaving a tiny, crimped hole.
Then I reamed the hole with a tiny ice pick and several jeweler's screwdrivers 'til I
file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]
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