Advertisement
Quick Links
Electrical: Engine Starting, Charging
Electrical: Engine Starting, Charging
FAQ Home
Volvo Maintenance FAQ for 7xx/9xx/90 Cars
file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]
Jump-Starting Engine Procedures
Jump Starting Alternator Procedures
Alternator & Starter Applications & Parts
Starter:
Starter and Solenoid Problems
Starter Will Not Engage: Start Inhibitor Switch
Removing Starter
Diesel Starter Fails: Wiring Fault
Alternator and Charging:
Alternator Mounting Bushings
Alternator Not Charging
Alternator Getting Weak; Regulator/Brush
Replacement
Checking Alternator Diodes
Testing Alternator/Battery Voltage
Alternator Wiring is Failing
Alternator Interchange
Battery, Terminals, and Wiring:
Slow Battery Discharge
Starting Problems and Battery Cable/Terminal
Corrosion
Unexplained Drivability Problems; Rotting Battery
Wiring Harness; Loose Connector Nut
Car Battery Failure: Diagnostics
Car Battery Replacement Tips
Battery Explosion; Wiring Chafing
Advertisement
Related Manuals for Volvo 7 Series
Summary of Contents for Volvo 7 Series
- Page 1 Electrical: Engine Starting, Charging Electrical: Engine Starting, Charging FAQ Home Volvo Maintenance FAQ for 7xx/9xx/90 Cars Jump-Starting Engine Procedures Jump Starting Alternator Procedures Alternator & Starter Applications & Parts Starter: Starter and Solenoid Problems Starter Will Not Engage: Start Inhibitor Switch...
- Page 2 You may damage your fuel injection computer with this spike. Avoid it by engaging a load. Note: You can print these instructions out, xerox onto a plastic sheet, and mount it near your car battery for on-site reference. file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 3 Marchal or whatever) part number then enter it in the upper right search box. Each major listing will give you the specs, a list of equivalent or similar units, the Volvo part numbers, the years, models and engines in which it was used and a list of the component replacement part numbers and an indication of availability.
- Page 4 Corrosion, poor ground at the solenoid mount or poor battery cable connections will prevent the solenoid from doing its job. If the starter tests okay but fails to crank, another possible cause may be a bad file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 5 If the car starts, crawl under and adjust the rod just a little and the problem should be solved once and for all. Failing this option, check the switch and wires associated with the lockout switch. file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 6 (should be rounded and smooth--the other one was) point due to wear and a relaxed copper alloy arm...the car wouldn't start unless the switch was compressed by hand (a get-home crutch, BTW!). And beware...the Volvo part comes with a new and cheaper connector that the dealer crutches by selling you four terminals and the late model socket for an additional $5.00!! You're supposed to clip the OEM...
- Page 7 Once you tension it, tighten the securing nut firmly and then back off the adjusting bolt so it bears no tension from the belt Reconnect the battery negative terminal If you are interested in replacing the four air conditioning compressor bushings, see file. file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 8 (use the alternator case for ground) and red is touched to the D+ and B+ terminals. At the component level, diodes will only conduct one way. They have to be tested out of circuit, so one lead has to be disconnected from file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 9 +12 to one side of all 4 bulbs and the other side finds a path to ground via that small red exciter wire from the panel to: 1. alternator D+ terminal, then 2. voltage regulator, then 3. alternator brushes and slip rings, then file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 10 1034 12V light bulb into the circuit. The hot wire is soldered to the terminal next to the center contact on the bulb. This did three things: it gave me a "idiot light" to tell me if the alternator file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 11 Soldering Tips: Earlier Wires Soldered to Terminals. Drill out the brush wire with a 1/16" bit where it is soldered to the brush holder. Brushes are available from Volvo for less than $4.00 (probably part number 1362710 for your car- they file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 12 If you have trouble getting your solder to stick or flow out it is most likely because of the lack of flux. The new brushes from Volvo (part number 1362710- less than $4) have a solid wire lead on them that makes it easy to thread them into the brush holder.
- Page 13 [Editor] For an older alternator, merely changing the brushes may not help much. You should rebuild it with new bearings and turn the commutator. If you have flickering instrument panel warning lamps, see Warning Lights Flickering: Bad Alternator Brushes for a solution. Nippon Denso Alternator: Brush file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 14 Then just replace the white hood and reassemble. Checking Alternator Diodes. [Tip from Corey Glassman, Electrical, Charging and Starting System Tips and Techniques, Underhood Service, Sept 1999] A Digital Multi-Meter's (DMM's) accuracy and digital display make file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 15 After the engine starts and the alternator takes over, the alternator becomes the source of all power and the battery becomes a load and stabilizer. The best ground now is on the alternator file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 16 After starting the engine while the battery was recharging, I measured 0.5 volts from the alternator stud to the wire just after the lug. I cleaned and soldered the crimp lug and while I was at it also replaced the regulator/brush assembly. I've file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 17 [John Sargent] They all interchange. The later alternators use a larger stud on the output terminal, and you'll have to carefully ream out the lug on the earlier cars, or replace the lug. The small Nippondenso unit is supposed to have better voltage regulation. file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 18 Slow Battery Discharge. [Inquiry:] I am having an electrical problem with my Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly over time. It was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it. All was good for a month and a half, then it went dead again.
- Page 19 [More Battery Cable Tips from Paul Grimshaw] The battery grounding cable on Volvo 700-series cars fitted with the 2.3 litre engine is constructed of braided steel, crimped to lugs which secure it in place. Over time, chassis and engine bay vibrations may weaken the grounding wire.
- Page 20 Voltage drops measured in tenths or even hundredths of a volt can be significant and will cause problems. Cleaning Battery Posts and Connectors: [Editor] You can clean the battery posts and cable connectors safely by: file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 21 ''like new!'' The car's acceleration was impressive, not just ''good''. The ECU said thanks, and the slight drop in fuel economy went away. The problem was wiring this time, but sometimes just changing the battery returns life to a Volvo. Check your electrical system thoroughly.
- Page 22 Check the battery tray and holddown parts for looseness, corrosion or other damage. Clean, tighten or replace parts as needed. Inspect the battery case and cover for dirt, grease or electrolyte condensation, and clean as necessary. You can clean a battery with a solution of baking soda file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 23 Buy a moderately priced battery with 4 years of life for $35-$40 and you will be spending $10/year, not $30/year. Plan on setting your clock at 4 years and start saving for the next $40 battery. file:///C|/Users/Steve/Documents/Volvo%20FAQ%20Updated/ElectricalStarting.html[01/13/14 10:02:47 PM]...
- Page 24 Since Interstate distributes J. C. batteries that is what I buy. You will not hurt the alternator with a bigger battery. I always had good luck with OEM Volvo batteries but I understand that the 850s had a battery vith frequent failures.
- Page 25 Don't buy an 18 wheeler battery to start your VW or the alternator may be unhappy. Don't buy a motorcycle battery to start your Volvo, the starter pulls too many amps, the alternator will cook it from charging too fast and the starter will poop out from not enough current to get the job done because of heat $$$$$.