Electrical Shock Hazard
Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
Do not remove ground prong.
Do not use an adapter.
Do not use an extension cord.
Failure to follow these instructions can result in death,
fire, or electrical shock.
Before you move your refrigerator into its final location, it is
important to make sure you have the proper electrical connection.
Recommended Grounding Method
A 115 volt, 60 Hz, AC only, 15- or 20-amp fused, grounded
electrical supply is required. It is recommended that a separate
circuit serving only your refrigerator be provided. Use an outlet
that cannot be turned off by a switch. Do not use an
NOTE: Before performing any type of installation or cleaning, or
removing a light bulb, turn cooling off or turn the control
(Thermostat, Refrigerator or Freezer Control depending on the
model) to OFF, and then disconnect the refrigerator from the
electrical source. When you are finished, reconnect the
refrigerator to the electrical source and turn cooling on or reset the
control (Thermostat, Refrigerator or Freezer Control depending on
the model) to the desired setting. See "Using the Controls" in the
User Instructions, User Guide, or Use & Care Guide.
Water Supply Requirements
Read all directions before you begin.
If you turn the refrigerator on before the water line is
connected, turn the ice maker OFF.
All installations must meet local plumbing code requirements.
Use copper tubing and check for leaks. Install copper tubing
only in areas where the household temperatures will remain
TOOLS NEEDED: Flat-blade screwdriver, ⁷⁄₁₆" and ¹⁄₂" open-end
wrenches or 2 adjustable wrenches, ¹⁄₄" nut driver and drill bit,
cordless drill. Gather the required tools and parts before starting
installation. Read and follow the instructions provided with any
NOTE: Your refrigerator dealer has a kit available with a ¹⁄₄"
(6.35 mm) saddle-type shutoff valve, a union, and copper tubing.
Before purchasing, make sure a saddle-type valve complies with
your local plumbing codes. Do not use a piercing-type or ³⁄₁₆"
(4.76 mm) saddle valve which reduces water flow and clogs more
A cold water supply with water pressure of between 30 and
120 psi (207 and 827 kPa) is required to operate the ice maker. If
you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed,
Reverse Osmosis Water Supply
If a reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your
cold water supply, the water pressure to the reverse osmosis
system needs to be a minimum of 40 to 60 psi (276 to 414 kPa).
If the ice maker is still not operating properly:
Check to see whether the sediment filter in the reverse
osmosis system is blocked. Replace the filter if necessary.
Allow the storage tank on the reverse osmosis system to refill
after heavy usage.
If you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed,
Connect the Water Supply
Read all directions before you begin.
IMPORTANT: If you turn the refrigerator on before the water line is
connected, turn the ice maker OFF to avoid excessive noise or
damage to the water valve.
Connect to Water Line
1. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
2. Turn OFF main water supply. Turn ON nearest faucet long
enough to clear line of water.
3. Locate a ¹⁄₂" to 1¹⁄₄" (1.27 cm to 3.18 cm) vertical cold water
pipe near the refrigerator.
Make sure it is a cold water pipe.
Horizontal pipe will work, but drill on the top side of the
pipe, not the bottom. This will help keep water away from
the drill and normal sediment from collecting in the valve.
4. Determine the length of copper tubing you will need. Measure
from the connection on lower left rear of refrigerator to the
water pipe. Add 7 ft (2.1 m) to allow for cleaning. Use ¹⁄₄"
(6.35 mm) O.D. (outside diameter) copper tubing. Be sure both
ends of copper tubing are cut square.
5. Using a cordless drill, drill a ¹⁄₄" hole in the cold water pipe you
A. Cold water pipe
B. Pipe clamp
C. Copper tubing
D. Compression nut
(on some models)
E. Compression sleeve
F. Shutoff valve
G. Packing nut