First Planking - Jotika H.M.S VICTORY 1805 Manual

First Planking

Before the first planking begins, it will be necessary to bevel the edges and undersides of the bulkheads at the bow and at the
stern. Bulkhead (18) will need to be bevelled along its underside to quite an angle, (Photo 007).
Also, taper the keel as previously instructed on page 3.
With the side patterns in position and thoroughly dry, now is the best time to bevel the bulkheads, as the structure is very rigid
and sturdy.
Place a single piece of 1.5x6mm limewood across the bulkheads and you will see quite clearly where the bevelling is required.
After bevelling, the first planking can be applied using 1.5x6mm limewood strip.
The first plank is laid directly against the lower edge of the lower gunport pattern (272). As the plywood bulkheads are very
strong, it is recommended that 0.5mm holes be drilled into the bulkheads before the insertion of the pins. When pushing the
brass pins into the planks and bulkheads, leave at least 3mm protruding so that they can be easily removed once the planks are
secure, (Photo 007) Glue the planks into position using PVA wood glue. Ensure that you glue every area of contact with the
planks and bulkheads.
The first ten planks on each side are relatively straight forward, as they require little or no tapering. As you start down to the
curved side of the bow, the planks will need to be tapered to follow the natural run of the planks. In order to determine the
amount of taper required for each plank to lie naturally, lay the plank from the 6th bulkhead around to the bow, mark the
excess area of the plank that overlaps the plank immediately above it. Repeat this process for the stern also.
Before cutting the taper into the planks, soak them in warm water for an hour or so as this will minimise the chance of the
knife blade following the grain of the wood rather than the edge of the steel rule.
Lay the first wet plank to be tapered on a clean, flat surface (a cutting mat is ideal). Press firmly with a steel rule onto the
marked taper line on the plank and score down the line with a heavy-duty craft knife several times until the excess is cut off
(do not attempt to cut the plank in one pass!).
Pin and glue the tapered planks into position on the hull leaving a little excess across the bottom edge of bulkhead (18) which
can be trimmed to shape once the planking is complete, (Photo 007).
Glue two or three planks alternatively each side, this method should prevent any possible warping or twisting of the bulkheads
and keel.
Use this planking method right down the hull. When planking is almost complete you will notice triangular shaped gaps at the
stern (and bow to a lesser degree). This was also the case in full size practise, although not so simplified. The use of triangular
shaped planks (called stealers) is needed for these gaps. Cut these to shape using the excess limewood from the ends of the
planking and glue them into the gaps.
Trim the excess stern planks at bulkhead (18) to shape and leave the hull to fully cure for at least 24 hours.
The next stage is to sand the hull with a coarse grade abrasive paper, followed by a medium grade. This will obviously entail a
few hours work but it will form the basis for the second planking, remember to remove all pins before sanding begins.
The building cradle (43, 44 & 45) can now be constructed and secured to the building board of your choice.
Photo 007
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2003 JoTiKa Ltd.