Adjusting The Damping Control - BMW Mountain Bike Enduro Owner's Manual

9.2.2 Adjusting the Damping control.

The damping is adjusted by valves inside. These valves are designed to
modify the flow rate of the oil and hence the speed with which the fork
legs move in and out. In this way it is possible to optimise the bicycle's
reaction to obstacles. Furthermore, any oscillatory movement while
pedalling can be reduced. For long uphill rides involving hard pedalling
out of the saddle it is advisable to activate the lockout mechanism. On
the other hand, for downhill rides on uneven ground it may be better to
open the damping system more or less completely.
Suspension forks with adjustable damping are fitted with an adjusting
knob that is (mainly) red to slow down or accelerate the rebound move-
ment (a). The second knob, if available, is to adjust the speed of the
compression movement (b).
The adjusting process changes the flow rate of the oil contained within
the suspension fork as it passes through valves and chambers internally.
Some models provide for separate adjustment of compression and
rebound damping. Experience has shown that it is best to begin with the
compression stage entirely open and to first adjust the rebound stage.
Adjusting the suspension fork is a delicate job, as even a small change
on the adjuster can have a big effect. Try approaching the exact setting
you need in increments no larger than a quarter turn from the "Open"-
position.
a b
Rebound is considered satisfactory when the suspension fork cycles
once after descending from a high kerb. If you turn the knob too far, the
oil inside will flow very slowly and the rebound will be at maximum. This
will result in a sluggish rebound movement, and the suspension fork will
not recover when exposed to a quick series of impacts.
Turning the adjusting knob in the other direction reduces rebound,
making the suspension fork rebound faster.
Once this is done, adjust the compression stage. This is to control the
rate at which the rear shock compresses. Adjusting the compression
adjuster towards the closed or maximum position will give you a firmer,
less active ride. Take your bicycle for a test ride on different kinds of
surface (c).
If the suspension fork hits the end of its travel (bottom out) several times,
you will need to change its spring rate (d).
If the damping does not suit your needs, in spite of your adjusting, or if in
the case of coil spring elements you need more than three to four turns
for the initial spring tension, you may need to replace the suspension
elements. The replacement is a job best left to a bicycle specialist shop
of your trust.
c
d
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