1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. Currie tech Manuals
  4. Bicycle
  5. IZIP
  6. Owner's manual

Currie tech iZip Owner's Manual

Currie hybrid electric bicycles/electric powered bicycle
Hide thumbs Also See for iZip:
Table of Contents

Advertisement

Quick Links

Advertisement

Table of Contents
loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the iZip and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Related Manuals for Currie tech iZip

Summary of Contents for Currie tech iZip

  • Page 2 FULLY CHARGE BATTERIES BEFORE FIRST USE - Batteries should be fully charged immediately when they are received and immediately after each use for the recommended charge times (see below). • Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) batteries 4-6 hours (2-3 hours for Via Urbano) • SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries 6-10 hours With proper care and maintenance your Currie Technologies® Hybrid Electric Bicycle will provide ease of use and be fun to ride. Below are points that will help you to maximize the enjoyment you get from your new hybrid electric bicycle.
  • Page 3 HELMETS SAVE correct FITTING - MAKE LIVES!!! SURE YOUR HELMET COVERS YOUR FOREHEAD. • ALWAYS WEAR A PROPERLY FITTED HELMET WHEN YOU RIDE YOUR BICYCLE. • DO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT. • CPSC RECORDS SHOW THAT ABOUT 35% OF BICYCLE RELATED DEATHS OCCUR AFTER DARK. • AVOID RIDING IN WET CONDITIONS. • CPSC RECORDS SHOW THAT ABOUT 65% OF INJURIES HAPPEN TO CHILDREN UNDER 15 YEARS OF AGE. incorrect FITTING. FOREHEAD • RIDE ONLY WITH ADULT SUPERVISION IS EXPOSED AND VULNERABLE TO SERIOUS INJURY.
  • Page 4 personal care from currie technologies® congratulations on your new purchase! our service department is dedicated to your satisfaction with currie technologies® and its products. For questions regarding performance, assembly, operation, parts or returns, contact the experts at currie technologies® directly by calling toll free 1-800-377-4532 Monday - Friday 8:00 am - 4:00 pm (PST) iMpoRtant – please activate your warranty by please do not RetuRn registering your new currie product within 10 this iteM to the stoRe. days of purchase by visiting our web site www. For questions or assistance on assembly contact Currie Technologies® Customer Service currietech.com and clicking the “Register your product” link.
  • Page 5 The following manual is only a guide to assist you and is not a complete or comprehensive manual of all aspects of maintaining and repairing your bicycle. The bicycle you have purchased is a complex object. We recommend that you consult a bicycle repair specialist if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble, repair, or maintain your bicycle. You will save time and the inconvenience of having to go back to the store if you choose to write or call us concerning missing parts, service questions, operating advice, and/or assembly questions.
  • Page 6 please Retain your sales Receipt as proof of purchase. attach receipt here. notes: _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________...

  • Page 7: Table Of Contents

    paRt 1 parts identification and tools ......10-15 paRt 2 Before you Ride ........16-32 paRt 3 electrical components .
  • Page 8 index Fenders Quick releases Wheels Front ....80 Front Wheel ..64-65 Front (bolt-on) ..66 Rear .
  • Page 9 terminology poWeR systeMs – Pedal Assist - A sensor ring and pickup mounted near the bottom bracket allow the bicycle to sense forward pedaling and apply power. • Via Urbano (PAS only) – Twist and Go - A rider-controlled system, the motor activates only when the handlebar throttle is turned. • Sereno, Tricruiser, Via Mezza pas/taG – Pedal Assist or Twist and Go - A handlebar-mounted button allows selection of PAS or TAG modes. • Coastline, Eco Ride, Trailz, Via Lento, Via Rapido – Torque Measurement Method - A sensor mounted in the rear dropout measures pedaling force and naturally adds motor power in response to rider effort. • Trekking Enlightened, Urban Cruiser Enlightened battery systems – Rack Mounted Battery with Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) cells - Two SLA battery packs sit vertically in the rack. • Coastline, Trailz, Via Lento rtmb –...
  • Page 10 RtMB (RacK top Mounted BatteRy) Bicycles & Standard bicycle components Via Rapido, Zuma Shifter Electrical components in bold text Stem Handlebar Top Tube Head Set throttle (w/ pas/taG selector) Seat Head Tube Brake Lever Seat Post power switch Brake Control Cables Seatpost clamp Down Tube Front Reflector Battery Seat Tube Rear Brake Seat Stay pas sensor Freewheel (behind chainring) charger port Front Brake Rear Reflector Fork Front Hub Spokes Bottom...
  • Page 11 Folding bicycles - Super portable, with easy folding design. Perfect for camping, fits in RV's, boats and car trunks. Handlebar Quick Release Seat Post Handlebar Hinge Frame Hinge & Quick Release Battery Pack Front Fender Rear Fender Hub Motor Controller *To see detailed spare parts diagrams for each bicycle, please visit www.izipusa.com and click on the page corresponding to your model. See page 10 for common components.
  • Page 12 enlightened series - Lightweight, hidden, Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) battery pack in a modern designed frame. Perfect for Commuting and City Riding Control Box Charger Port TMM Sensor (TMM models only) Battery Pack (inside) Hub Motor Controller (inside) *To see detailed spare parts diagrams for each bicycle, please visit www.izipusa.com and click on the page corresponding to your model. See page 10 for common components.
  • Page 13 RMB (RacK Mounted BatteRy) Bicycles PAS/TAG Throttle Sealed Lead Acid Battery RMB rack PAS Sensor (behind chainring) Currie Drive Motor *To see detailed spare parts diagrams for each bicycle, please visit www.izipusa.com and click on the page corresponding to your model. See page 10 for common components.
  • Page 14 tricruiser Throttle Fender (rear) Fender (front) Charger port Battery Controller (inside)
  • Page 15 Your new bicycle was partially assembled in the factory and then partially disassembled for shipping. You may have purchased the bicycle already fully assembled and ready to ride OR in the shipping carton in the partially disassembled form. The following instructions will enable you to prepare your bicycle for years of enjoyable cycling. For more details on inspection, lubrication, maintenance and adjustment of any area please refer to the relevant sections in this manual. If you have questions about your ability to properly assemble this unit, please consult a qualified bicycle service specialist before riding. If you need replacement parts or have questions pertaining to assembly of your bicycle, call the service line direct at: seRvice and technical suppoRt: 1 800 377 4532 Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. (pst) typical tools Required: •...

  • Page 16: Part 2 Before You Ride

    beFore you ride about this manual It is important for you to understand your new bicycle. By reading this manual before you go out on your first ride, you’ll know how to get better performance, comfort, and enjoyment from your new bicycle. It is also important that your first ride on your new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles, and other cyclists. GeneRal WaRninG Bicycling can be a hazardous activity even under the best of circumstances. Proper maintenance of your bicycle is your responsibility as it helps reduce the risk of injury. This manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle. Many of the warnings and cautions say “you may lose control and fall.”...
  • Page 17 Frame size When selecting a new bicycle, the correct choice of frame size is a very important safety consideration. Most full sized bicycles come in a range of frame sizes. These sizes usually refer to the distance between the center of the bottom bracket and the top of the frame seat tube. Please note that regardless of frame size, all Izip bicycles (excluding the Tricruiser) have a weight limit of 240lbs For safe and comfortable riding there should be clearance of no less than 1 - 2 inches between the groin area of the intended rider and the top tube of the bicycle frame, while the rider straddles the bicycle with both feet flat on the ground. The ideal clearance will vary between types of bicycles and rider preference. This makes straddling the frame when off the seat easier and safer in situations such as sudden traffic stops.
  • Page 18 RidinG position seat height In order to obtain the most comfortable riding position and offer the best possible pedaling efficiency, the seat height should be set correctly in relation to the rider’s leg length. The correct saddle height should not allow leg strain from over-extension, and the hips should not rock from side to side when pedaling. While sitting on the bicycle with one pedal at its lowest point, place the ball of your foot on that pedal.
  • Page 19 handlebar height Maximum comfort is usually obtained when the handlebar height is Stem Wedge Bolt equal to or slightly higher than the height of the seat. You may wish to try different heights to find the most comfortable position. Handlebar Binder Bolt Maximum Height/ Minimum Insertion Mark Exceeds 2 1/2” (64mm) threadless headsets and clamp-on stems are not easily adjustable. please refer to page 57 for instructions on installation. the stem’s “Minimum insertion” mark must not be visible above the top of the headset. if the stem is extended beyond this mark, the stem may break or damage the fork’s steerer tube, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Failure to properly tighten the stem binder bolt, the handlebar binder bolt, or the bar end extension clamping bolts may compromise steering action, which could cause you to lose control and fall. place the front wheel of the bicycle between your legs and attempt to twist the handlebar/stem assembly using a reasonable amount of force. if you can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar. prior to riding, you must fully tighten the appropriate bolts accordingly.
  • Page 20 saFety checKlist Before every ride, it is important to carry out the following safety checks: 1. Brakes • Ensure front and rear brakes work properly. • Ensure brake shoe pads are not over worn and are correctly positioned in relation to the rims. • Ensure brake control cables are lubricated, correctly adjusted and display no obvious wear. • Ensure brake control levers are lubricated and tightly secured to the handlebar. 2. Wheels and tires • Ensure tires are inflated to within the recommended limit as displayed on the tire sidewall. • Ensure tires have tread and have no bulges or excessive wear. • Ensure rims run true and have no obvious wobbles or kinks. • Ensure all wheel spokes are tight and not broken. • Check that axle nuts are tight. If your bicycle is fitted with quick release axles, make sure locking levers are correctly tensioned and in the closed position. 3. steering • Ensure handlebar and stem are correctly adjusted and tightened, and allow proper steering.
  • Page 21 5. Bearings • Ensure all bearings are lubricated, run freely and display no excess movement, grinding or rattling. • Check headset, wheel bearings, pedal bearings and bottom bracket bearings. 6. cranks and pedals • Ensure pedals are securely tightened to the cranks. • Ensure cranks are securely tightened to the axle and are not bent. 7. derailleurs • Check that front and rear mechanisms are adjusted and function properly. • Ensure shift and brake levers are attached to the handlebar, shift and brake. • Ensure derailleurs, shift levers and shift and brake cables are properly lubricated. 8. Frame and Fork • Check that the frame and fork are not bent or broken. • If either are bent or broken, they should be replaced. 9. accessories • Ensure that all reflectors are properly fitted and not obscured. • Ensure all other fittings on the bike are properly and securely fastened, and functioning. • Ensure the rider is wearing a helmet. 10. Motor drive assembly and throttle • Ensure all motor drive components are correctly mounted and functioning properly. 11. Battery pack • Ensure the batteries are in good operation condition and kept fully charged.
  • Page 22 helmets It is strongly advised that a properly fitting, ANSI or SNELL approved, bicycle safety helmet be worn at all times when riding your bicycle. The correct helmet should: - be comfortable - be lightweight - have good ventilation - fit correctly - cover forehead always wear a properly fitted helmet which covers the forehead when riding a bicycle. Many states require specific safety devices. it is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the state where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your bike as the law requires. Reflectors are important safety devices which are designed as an integral part of your bicycle. Federal regulations require every bicycle to be equipped with front, rear, wheel, and pedal reflectors. these reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street lights and car lights in a way that helps you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist. check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly to make sure they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely mounted.
  • Page 23 Reflectors Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and four pedal (orange) reflectors. These are an important safety and legal requirements, and should remain securely fitted and in good, clean condition at all times. Periodically inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found. Some bicycles will require you to install your reflectors onto your bicycle. Please refer to the following section for instructions on all the types of bicycle reflectors. Fork Mount Reflector Bracket assembly First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector bracket and then through the fork. Next, insert a second washer onto the bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the fork. Tighten bolts until snug, making sure the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at the right. Front Reflector Mount with handlebar Bracket assembly First attach the reflector to the reflector bracket with the reflector screw, if not already done. Next, remove the clamp screw and open the reflector clamp bracket. Place reflector clamp bracket around...
  • Page 24 seat and handlebar Mounting Reflectors First attach the reflector to the reflector bracket with the reflector screw, see the top diagram. Next, remove the clamp screw and open the clamping reflector bracket. Place clamping reflector bracket around the handlebar or seatpost. If the clamp is too loose, insert a rubber spear inside of the clamp. Tighten the clamp screw to hold reflector assembly in place, see the second diagram. Finally, adjust the reflector assembly in place and ensure that it is upright and facing away from the bike. seatstay Mount Reflector Bracket assembly First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector bracket and then through the seatstay bridge. Next, insert a second washer onto the bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the seatstay bridge. Tighten bolts until snug, making sure the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at the bottom right.

  • Page 25: Riding Safely

    riding saFely General Rules When riding obey the same road laws as all other road vehicles, including giving way to pedestrians, and stopping at red lights and stop signs. For further information, contact the Road Traffic Authority, police department or Department of Motor Vehicles in your State. Ride predictably and in a straight line. Never ride against traffic. Use correct hand signals to indicate turning or stopping. Ride defensively. To other road users, you may be hard to see. Concentrate on the path ahead. Avoid pot holes, gravel, wet road markings, oil, curbs, speed bumps, drain grates and other obstacles. Cross train tracks at a 90 degree angle or walk your bicycle across. Expect the unexpected such as opening car doors or cars backing out of concealed driveways. Be extra careful at intersections and when preparing to pass other vehicles.

  • Page 26: Part 3 Electrical Components

    Wet Weather it is RecoMMended to not Ride in Wet WeatheR This hybrid electric bicycle is not meant for use in the water (damp roads, puddles, rain, streams, etc.). Never immerse this product in water as the electrical system may be damaged. Although the electrical components are water resistant and there is little risk of electric shock from wet weather, you should exercise caution and strongly consider not riding in such conditions, especially heavy rain. • In wet weather you need to take extra care. • Brake earlier, stopping distance is up to 6 times longer. • Decrease your riding speed, avoid sudden braking and take corners with additional caution. • Be more visible on the road.
  • Page 27 hill technique • Gear down before a climb and continue gearing down as required to maintain pedaling speed. • If you reach the lowest gear and are struggling, stand up on your pedals. You will then obtain more power from each pedal revolution. • On the descent, use the high gears to avoid rapid pedaling. • Do not exceed a comfortable speed; maintain control and take additional care. cornering technique Brake slightly before cornering and prepare to lean your body into the corner. Maintain the inside pedal at the 12 o'clock position and slightly point the inside knee in the direction you are turning. Keep the other leg straight, don't pedal through fast or tight corners. While going through the turn, keep your eyes parallel to the horizon and look as far ahead of you as possible. Please refer to pages 112-113 for braking techniques and pages 114-115 for gear shifting techniques.
  • Page 28 GEARS - HOW TO OPERATE drivetrain Derailleur Control Cable derailleur Gears Freewheel Front Derailleur Cogs Most multi-speed bicycles today are equipped with what are known as derailleur gears. They operate using a system of levers and mechanisms to move the drive chain between different sized driving gears or cogs. The purpose of gears is to let you maintain a constant, steady pedaling pace under varying conditions.
  • Page 29 these combinations are these combinations are not RecoMMended for not RecoMMended for Middle high high optimal performance. optimal performance. Recommended chainwheel/Rear sprocket Gear combinations hand Grip shifters Front Low Gear Rear Low Gear Some bicycles are equipped with a shifting mechanism called Grip Shift™, which is built into the handlebar grips and does not make use of separate levers. The actuating mechanism is built into the inside part of the grip so that the hand and palm wrap around them naturally. To select a lower gear, twist the left shifter toward you to engage a larger rear cog. You can shift one gear at a time by moving the Grip Shift™ one click, or through multiple gears by continued twisting. To...
  • Page 30 Below the Bar shifters Left hand lever Right hand lever Many mountain style bicycles now use a shift lever arrangement mounted on the underside of the handlebars, which use two levers operated by the thumb and index finger. To select a lower gear push the larger (lower) right shifter with your thumb to engage a larger rear cog. One firm push shifts the chain one cog, continuing to push will move the chain over multiple cogs. Pulling the smaller (upper) left shifter with your index finger moves the chain from a larger to a smaller chainwheel.

  • Page 31: Bicycle Care

    bicycle care Basic Maintenance The following procedures will help you maintain your hybrid electric bicycle for years of enjoyable riding. Properly maintain the batteries by keeping them fully charged when not in use. Do not ride your hybrid electrical bicycle in the water (damp roads, puddles, rain, streams, etc.) and never immerse it in water as the electrical system may be damaged. Periodically check the wiring and connectors to ensure there is no damage and the connectors have good continuity.
  • Page 32 storage Keep your bicycle in a dry location away from the weather and the sun. Direct sunlight may cause paint to fade or rubber and plastic parts to crack. Before storing your bicycle for a long period of time, clean and lubricate all components and wax the frame. Deflate the tires to half pressure and hang the bicycle off the ground. Charge your batteries and make sure they are protected from water. Batteries should be charged every 30 (Lithium Ion) or 90 (SLA) days to avoid capacity loss. Don't cover the bicycle with plastic as "sweating” will result which may cause rusting.
  • Page 33 electRonic coMponents Battery Gauge When the throttle or sensor is engaged (powering the motor) and the bicycle is in motion, the LEDs on the battery gauge (on the throttle or separate unit) indicate instantaneous line voltage as measured at the battery terminals – not the available energy in the battery pack. The line voltage willwwing out from a dead stop, or going up a steep hill, TAG Throttle with the motor will be under a high load and may show a reduced number of Battery Gauge...
  • Page 34 press to turn on the bicycle After pressing ‘Power’, all eight meter lights will flash in sequence, indicating that the bike is ready to ride. If your bike has an additional physical switch or battery selector located behind or in front of the batteries, be sure it is turned to the proper position before pressing ‘Power’. the lights indicate remaining charge The battery gauge provides five indications of battery level. When the battery is depleted to the point of automatic shutoff, the lowest gauge light will blink indicating the need to recharge immediately. Of course, the bicycle can still be ridden with the system turned off.
  • Page 35 Torque Measurement Method press to turn on the bicycle Do not put any pressure on the pedals when turning the bicycle on. Doing so may affect the TMM sensor calibra- tion (the TMM sensor is re-calibrated each and every time the power is turned on). If your bike has an additional physical switch or battery selector located behind or in front of the batteries, be sure it is turned to the proper position before pressing ‘Power’. After pressing ‘ON/OFF’, all ten meter lights will flash in sequence, indicating that the bike is ready to ride. To turn the bicycle off, hold the 'ON/OFF' button for about 3 seconds.
  • Page 36 throttles Throttles are equipped on some models of electric bicycles. Throttles operate by rotating the throttle towards the rider much like a motorcycle. They generally are the inner half of the right side handlebar grip and may also contain a battery gauge. The more you twist the throttle, the faster the motor system will propel the bicycle.
  • Page 38 Battery care and information Proper maintenance of batteries will maximize their lifespan and capacity. Currie Technologies® warranties your new batteries from the date of purchase only if properly cared for—refer to the limited warranty for details. Currie uses SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) or Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) batteries in all of our hybrid electric bicycles and scooters. These are both very user-friendly types of batteries when cared for properly. care Even with proper care, rechargeable batteries do not last forever. Every time the battery is discharged and subsequently recharged, its relative capacity decreases by a small percentage. You can maximize the life of your battery by following the instructions in this guide.
  • Page 39 storage When storing your batteries for a long period of time (longer than two months): • Charge your batteries every 90 days to avoid capacity loss. Batteries slowly self-discharge when left unused for a long period of time; if the battery cells are allowed to reach a critically low voltage, their lifespan and capacity will be permanently reduced. • Always disconnect your charger from the wall outlet and battery before storing the battery. • Avoid storing your batteries in extreme temperatures, whether hot or cold. • Batteries are best kept in a cool, dry place. Do not allow batteries to accumulate condensation, as this could cause shorting or corrosion. • The recommended storage temperature for both SLA and Li-Ion batteries is between 32-77 °F (0-25°C). • Avoid exposing the battery to extreme heat (104°F or higher) for long periods of time. Q: do i need to “break-in” my batteries? A: Yes, it is recommended that you perform a “break-in” cycle consisting of ~ three discharge/charge cycles to allow your batteries to reach optimum performance. This involves three complete discharges and three complete recharges. After this initial “break-in” cycle the batteries will have maximum possible performance and less line voltage fluctuations under load. Q: is it normal that the batteries get warm when recharging? A: Yes, it is normal that the batteries will become warm to the touch during the recharging process. This is because the increase of internal resistance and less energy conversion efficiency from electric energy to chemical energy.
  • Page 40 Battery terminal covers Bicycles with Rack Mounted Batteries are equipped with battery terminal cover(s) (see photo). These protect the battery terminals from debris and water when the terminal is not in use (i.e. when the battery is removed from the bike). These battery terminal covers need to be removed in order for the battery to make contact with terminals.
  • Page 41 charger The hybrid electric bicycle comes with its own "Smart Charger” that connects with an easy-access charger port for recharging the batteries. This charger unit has lights that show the battery charge status. Refer to the instructions that appear on the charger unit and its instructions. Batteries work best when they have a full charge, so always be sure to recharge them fully after each ride. If you leave them in a run-down condition, without recharging them, it will shorten their life expectancy. • Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) batteries - charge for 4-6 hours for full charge • SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries - charge for 6-10 hours for full charge The charger may get warm to the touch, so make sure you charge them in an open area and do not lay anything on the charger unit while charging. Although you cannot over-charge the batteries using the Currie “Smart Charger”, we recommend that you do not leave the charger plugged in for more than 24 hours.
  • Page 42 How to use the SLA Chargers (standard) 1. Plug the charger into the outlet. The indicator light on the top of the charger will illuminate when the charger is working properly. Refer to the sticker on the charger for actual status light indication. 2. Insert the plug (XLR, 2v1h, DC, or 3v) into the charger port on the bike being sure the charger plug is fully seated in the charger port. The light should be solid red or blinking green to indicate charging however you will need to refer to the sticker on the charger for actual status light indication, as there are different chargers for different battery chemistries.
  • Page 43 How to use the Li-Ion Chargers Before using the charger locate the voltage selector switch (li-ion chargers only) on the back of the charger. select either 115 volts or 230 volts depending on the country you reside in. using the wrong voltage setting will permanently damage the charger and/or electrical components on the hybrid electric bicycle. 1. Select the proper voltage for your country Be sure the charger’s power switch is turned “OFF” (red • 115V for North American light should be off) front and rear views below • 230V for most of Asia and Europe Power Switch - turn to “OFF” position Voltage Selector Switch Connect power cord to charger then plug power cord into wall outlet Red light should be “OFF”...
  • Page 44 Plug charger into 24V battery charger port The red light should come on indicating the charger has power. The orange light should then come on indicating that the charger is charging the battery. When the light changes from orange to green the battery is full and the charger has completed charging the battery.
  • Page 45 Main power switches standard power switches The power switch may be located, depending on the model of bike, in the following locations • On the battery pack itself (STB Series) • On the back side of the rack behind the rear reflector (RMB Series 2008+) • On the front side of the rack, directly beneath and RMB Bicycles (2008+) STB Bicycles behind the saddle (RTMB 2009) • On the controller box (Via Urbano, RTMB 2010) Be sure to turn the switch off whenever you are not using the bicycle or when charging the bicycle.
  • Page 46 handlebar power Buttons Some 2010 RMB and TMM models feature a handlebar-mounted power button, either on the control box or as a separate two- button control next to the throttle. On TMM bicycles this handlebar button is the sole means of turning the electrical system on and off; there is no other power Handlebar Power Button Control Box Power Button switch. (RMB & RTMB 2010) (RMB) RMB bicycles with handlebar-mounted power buttons use a two-position battery selector switch as described in the following section, in addition to the handlebar-mounted controls.
  • Page 47 Fuses All Currie Technologies® Hybrid Electric Bicycles are equipped with fuses. The fuse may be located, depending on the model of bike, in the following locations • CX Series (40A glass type fuse) - On the battery pack, externally accessible • RMB Series (40A glass type fuse) - On the backside of the battery pack, externally accessible CX Bicycles RMB Bicycles (2007, 2008) • STB Series (24V, 40A glass type fuse) - Inside the battery, must open the battery pack to access • STB Series 2011+ (24V, 40A glass type fuse) - On the battery pack, externally accessible • STB Series (36V, 40A glass type fuse) - On the battery...
  • Page 48 Wiring diagram - via Mezza (taG system) w/ stB Bicycles (Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ) BRAKE LEVER, RIGHT BRAKE LEVER, LEFT THROTTLE FULL HALF BATTERY CASE (Complete) SWITCH CONTROLLER FUSE CONNECTOR IN USE BATTERY BATTERY WHEEL, REAR W/ HUB MOTOR Via Mezza (STB w/ SLA Batteries) Bikes (2008 USA) WIRING DIAGRAM For updated and new wiring diagrams, please visit www.currietech.com or call our customer service line at 1-800-377-4532...
  • Page 49 Wiring diagram - taG/pas w/ RMB Bicycles (2008) (Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ) THROTTLE ASSIST CONVERTER (a.k.a. “WHITE BOX”) BATTERY CASE (Complete) 1:1 ASSIST SENSOR (a.k.a. “BLACK BOX”) WIRE HARNESS, BATTERY CASE CHARGER PORT BRAKE LEVER, LEFT Secondardy Battery Box CONTROLLER (optional) BATTERY PORT FUSE BATTERY BATTERY WIRE HARNESS, BATTERY PORT MOTOR BATTERY PORT WIRE HARNESS, SWITCH...
  • Page 50 Wiring diagram - taG/pas w/ RMB Bicycles (2009+) (Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ) THROTTLE CADENCE SENSOR full half empty TAG / PAS BATTERY CASE (Complete) WIRE HARNESS, BATTERY CASE CHARGER PORT BRAKE LEVER, LEFT Secondardy Battery Box CONTROLLER (optional) BATTERY TERMINAL FUSE BATTERY BATTERY WIRE HARNESS, BATTERY TERMINAL MOTOR BATTERY TERMINAL WIRE HARNESS, SWITCH SWITCH WIRE HARNESS, BATTERY TERMINAL For updated and new wiring diagrams, please visit www.currietech.com or call our customer service line at 1-800-377-4532 Rack Mount Battery (RMB w/ Controller-n-White Box, SLA Batteries) Bikes (2009 USA) WIRING DIAGRAM Bikes with serial numbers that start with “DM”...
  • Page 51 Wiring diagram - tMM Bicycles (Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ) BRAKE LEVER (RIGHT) -- for european production CONTROLLER BRAKE LEVER (LEFT) WHEEL (w/ HUB MOTOR) BATTERY CHARGER PORT PROGRAMMING PORT TMM SERVICE PORT TMM4 SENSOR TMM METER BOX ENLIGHTENED TMM WIRING DIAGRAM, rev3 For updated and new wiring diagrams, please visit www.currietech.com or call our customer service line at 1-800-377-4532...
  • Page 52 Wiring diagram - Rack top Mount Battery (RtMB 2009) (Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ) THROTTLE CADENCE SENSOR Note - PAS/TAG switch connection which Note - TAG jumper, for system testing only. is not used on the RTMB bikes This item is not included with bike, available as part of service kit (part # TL-WR-007) BATTERY (RTMB) BATTERY TERMINAL CONTROLLER...
  • Page 53 Wiring diagram - taG/pas w/ RMB Bicycles (2010+) with hub motor (Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ) BATTERY CASE (Complete) JUNCTION BOX WHEEL (w/ BRUSHLESS HUB MOTOR) WIRE HARNESS WIRE HARNESS, BATTERY CASE CHARGER PORT THROTTLE CADENCE SENSOR FULL HALF HANDLEBAR CONTROLS FUSE BATTERY BATTERY BATTERY TERMINAL BRAKE LEVER, LEFT Secondardy Battery Box (optional) BATTERY TERMINAL CONTROLLER BRAKE LEVER, Right WIRE HARNESS, SWITCH...
  • Page 54 Wiring diagram - Rack top Mount Battery (RtMB) 2010+ with hub motor (Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ) JUNCTION BOX WHEEL (w/ BRUSHLESS HUB MOTOR) WIRE HARNESS THROTTLE CADENCE SENSOR FULL HALF HANDLEBAR CONTROLS BRAKE LEVER, LEFT BATTERY (RTMB) CONTROLLER BRAKE LEVER, Right BATTERY TERMINAL For updated and new wiring diagrams, please visit www.currietech.com or call our customer service line at 1-800-377-4532...

  • Page 55: Part 4 Assembly

    Bicycle assembly assembly Guides Individual assembly guides for each bicycle model can be found packaged with your bicycle, or viewed online by visiting www.currietech.com and clicking on the page for your model. Getting started Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended that the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated prior to installation. do not discard packing materials until assembly is complete to insure that no required parts are accidentally discarded. Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components than the ones illustrated. We recommend that you consult a bicycle specialist if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly...
  • Page 56 stem and handlebars (standard Quill-type) Most currie bicycles use this stem type 1. Remove the protective shipping cap from the stem wedge. 2. Remove the Stem Plug from the stem. Loosen the Stem Bolt with a 6mm allen wrench or 13mm box wrench. 3. Insert the stem into the headtube of the bicycle. Ensure that the Minimum Insertion Line is below the top nut of the headset. 4. Align the stem and handlebar so it is in line with the front wheel. 5. Tighten the Stem Bolt with the 6mm allen wrench. Reinsert the Stem Plug into the stem. 6. Check the headset for smooth rotation and that the top nut is secured tightly. 7. Loosen the 6mm Binder Bolt and rotate the handlebar so the levers are at a 45 degree angle below the handlebar. 8. Retighten the Binder Bolt to ensure the handlebar does not rotate in the stem. WaRninG: MiniMuM inseRtion line Must Be hidden Within the headtuBe oF the Bicycle. if the stem is not inserted into the top nut to at least the “Minimum insertion” mark, it is possible to over-tighten the stem bolt and damage the fork steerer tube. if these Binder Bolt instructions are not followed, it could cause an unsafe condition and risk injury to the rider. check steering tightness prior to riding by straddling the front wheel. try turning the handlebar. if you can turn it without turning the front wheel, Stem Bolt the stem is too loose. Re-align the handlebar with the front wheel and re-tighten the stem bolt. note: Some models of bicycles may be equipped with a stem that has Top Nut Minimum Insertion an adjustable angle. In addition to the normal assembly, these stems will...
  • Page 57 stem and handlebars (threadless/aheadset) stem installation (should be assembled on the bike already) Compression Bolt 1. Insert the compression bolt through the top Handlebar Top Cap cap and the stem. Begin threading into the star nut. Stem Cap Stem Clamp Bolts Bolts 2. Tighten compression bolt so it removes all play from the fork, but allows the fork to rotate Spacer smoothly. Stem Cap Headset Wedge 3. Align the stem with the front wheel. Tighten Bearing Race Bearing Dust Cover...
  • Page 58 shifters Brake lever binder bolt (tighten from top side) Tighten the bolts that clamp the shifters and brake (5mm Allen key) levers to the handlebar using a 5mm Allen key or Phillips head screwdriver. This step is completed at the factory, but it should be checked before operating your bicycle. (Figure 1) Handlebar with Grip Shifter. (Figure 2) Top mounted thumb shifter. Shifter binder bolt (2.5mm Allen key) Shifter binder bolt (4mm Allen key) Failure to properly tighten clamping bolts may cause sudden movement of the component resulting in loss of steering control.
  • Page 59 Forks Steerer Tube There are two different types of forks that vary in styles and dimensions. One type is a rigid fork (Figure 1) consisting of sta- Brake Boss tionary tubing with curved blades. The other type is a suspension fork (Figure 2) consisting of inner stanchion tubes Drop-out riding on elastomers or springs inside of a straight outer fork leg.
  • Page 60 seat and seat post Your bicycle may come equipped with either a standard or a micro-adjustable seatpost. Seat Clamp Nuts standard seatpost Attach the seat to the seat post by first loosening Seat Fixing Bolt the nuts on the seat clamp. Insert the tapered end Quick Release lever of the seat post into the seat clamp until it is at the (same on both seat top of the clamp. Partially tighten the nuts on the post types) seat clamp, then insert the seat assembly into the frame of the bicycle and adjust the seat to the proper Micro-adjustable standard seat post...
  • Page 61 suspension seatpost proper seat position Attach Boot Minimum Preload adjusting Seat Here Insertion screw on underside Mark Seat is level with ground and centered in clamp pedals & crank set Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal spindle. Start threading each pedal by hand to avoid stripping the threads. Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right hand pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand (clockwise) thread. The left pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has a left-hand (counter-clockwise) thread. It is very important that you check Dust the crank set for correct adjustment and tightness before riding your...
  • Page 62 Many Izip and Ezip bicycle models use quick release (QR) levers to facilitate common tasks such as front wheel removal and seat height adjustment. When properly adjusted, quick release levers are both safe and conve- nient, but you must understand and apply the correct technique to adjust them properly before riding your bicy- cle to prevent serious injury or death from a fall.
  • Page 63 Tension adjusting Closed open 1. With the quick release clamp in the OPEN position, insert the seatpost, with saddle attached, into the bicycle’s seat tube. 2. Swing the quick release lever into the CLOSED position. 3. Grab the saddle with both hands and attempt to rotate it (and thus rotate the seatpost in the seat tube). 4. If you are able to force the seatpost out of alignment with the frame, the seatpost clamp needs to be adjusted. Holding the quick release lever in the OPEN position with one hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your other hand about 1/2 turn clockwise. 5. Attempt to swing the lever into the CLOSED position. If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to the CLOSED position (figure b), return the lever to the OPEN position, then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the lever again. Repeat steps 3, 4 & 5 until proper quick release tension is achieved.
  • Page 64 Front Wheel - Quick Release installing a quick release front wheel In a quick release system, the wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the quick release cam pushing against one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
  • Page 65 WaRninG: securely clamping the wheel takes considerable force. if you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again. 6. If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the Springs Tension tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try adjusting nut tightening the lever again. 7. Re-engage the brake to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance; spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads;...
  • Page 66 Front Wheel - Bolt-on 1. Make sure the brakes are loose enough to allow the wheel to pass through the brake pads easily. 2. Place wheel into fork dropouts. Retaining 3. Install retaining washers with raised lip pointed towards the Washer Axle Nut fork, and insert into the small hole of the fork blade. NOTE: Axle Some bikes may have step retaining washers in place of the retaining washer (shown in dotted box). If so, install the step retaining washer, raised portion sliding in to the fork dropouts. 4. Install axle nut and tighten. Make sure the wheel is centered between the fork blades. 5. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered and clears the brake shoes. Tighten the brakes if necessary. Cone Nut Step Retaining...
  • Page 67 Rear Wheel - Bolt-on 1. Make sure the brakes are loose enough to allow the wheel to pass through the brake pads easily. 2. Place the wheel into the frame dropouts. 3. Slide a washer onto each side of the axle 4. Install axle nuts and tighten. Make sure the wheel is centered in the frame. This may be easiest with the bike turned upside-down. 5. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered and clears the brake shoes. Tighten the brakes if necessary. tighten both rear wheel axle nuts securely. Failure to do this may cause the rear wheel to dislodge from the frame dropouts resulting in serious damage or injury. periodically, disassemble the mechanism from the bicycle and inspect for any wear or damage and replace if necessary. When reinstalling, it is very important to ensure the connections are made properly.
  • Page 68 Brakes Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to Nipple the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake Ferrule adjustment and maintenance, refer to pages 70-77. Brake lever setup (all Brake types) Squeeze the brake lever and place the nipple of the brake cable into the lever's cable end holder, then release the lever. Line up the slots in the barrel adjustor and lock nut with the slot on top of the brake body. Pull the cable housing into place in the barrel adjustor, then turn the barrel so the slots no longer align. Finally, tighten the locknut against the brake body Lock Nut Barrel Adjustor a slightly greater force is required to activate the rear brake due to longer cable length. Handlebar it is important to become familiar with the use of hand brakes. When properly adjusted, hand brakes are an efficient braking system. Keep the rim and brake Brake Cable shoes clean and free from wax, lubricants and dirt at Housing all times. Keep brakes properly adjusted and in good...
  • Page 70 linear-pull Brakes Cable Fixing Bolt & Washers Brake Noodle Boot Brake Shoes Link Fixing Bolt...
  • Page 71 linear-pull Brake setup 1. While holding the brake shoe against the rim, adjust the amount 3mm washer B 6mm washer B of shoe protrusion by changing over washer B (3mm or 6mm) so Shoe fixing nut that dimension A is kept at 32 mm or more. more. Generally, you will install the 6mm washer on the inside for narrow 700c wheels, and the 3mm washer on the inside for wider 26" wheels. 2. While holding the shoe against the rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut. The brake shoe should be centered vertically on the rim. Washer 3. Thread the brake cable through the brake noodle and boot. Washer A 4. Set the clearance between the brake shoes and the rim to ~1mm Washer A on each side and tighten the cable fixing bolt. This distance does Brake arm not need to be set exactly at the brake arm, as you can finely adjust it more easily with the brake lever barrel adjustor (see...
  • Page 72 linear-pull Brake setup, ctd. Direction of 1. For best braking performance, the brake pads should be "toed-in," wheel rotation so that the trailing portion of each brake pad is about 0.5 - 1.0mm farther from the rim than the leading portion of the pad. This gap can be set by hand or by using a small piece of thick paper as a shim between the rim and the rear half the pad to set the gap. 2. Depress the brake lever about 10 times as far as the grip to check that everything is operating correctly and that the shoe clearance is correct before riding the bike.
  • Page 73 check your Brakes Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1 mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are not applied. Brake pads should be centered on the rim and “toed-in” so the rear portion of each brake pad is about 0.5 - 1.0 mm farther from the rim than the front portion of the brake pad. Brake pads should be aligned with the Brake pads should be parallel to Brake pads should be toed-in rim surface. The brake pads must not the rim contact the tire.
  • Page 74 disc Brakes - tektro 1. Check the tightness of the six disc mounting bolts holding the brake rotor onto the wheel. If you need to remove these bolts, be sure to us a thread-locking compound when re-installing them. 2. Make sure the two bolts securing the caliper adaptor bracket to the fork are tight. 3. Thread the brake cable through the caliper as shown and secure it with the cable fixing bolt. 4. Loosen the two caliper mounting bolts enough to allow the brake caliper to float freely. 2, 3 Caliper Mounting Bolts Caliper Barrel Adjustor Cable Fixing Bolt Caliper Adaptor Bracket Bolts...
  • Page 75 1. Install the wheel, making sure the brake rotor fits into the slot in the caliper. Center the caliper around the brake rotor, then tighten the caliper mounting bolts. 2. Using the inner pad adjusting bolt, adjust the inside brake pad so it is as close as possible to the rotor without rubbing. 3. Using the caliper barrel adjustor, adjust the outside brake pad so it is as close as possible to the rotor without rubbing. disc brakes require breaking in. Ride and use the 6, 7 brakes gently for about 13 miles before using the brakes in downhill conditions, for sudden stops, or any other serious braking. please be aware that your brake system will change in performance throughout the wear- in process. the disc brake should be cleaned before the first ride using rubbing alcohol. neveR use oil or similar products to clean your disc brake system. avoid touching the rotor (disc) with your fingers at any time. naturally oily fingers can contaminate the rotor and/or the brake pads and diminish the brake’s effectiveness. Brake discs get hot! severe injury could result from contact with the hot rotor. Mind your legs, as well as your hands.
  • Page 76 disc Brakes - avid BB7 1. Check the tightness of the six disc mounting bolts holding the brake rotor onto the wheel. If you need to remove these bolts, be sure to us a thread- locking compound when re-installing them. 2. Make sure the two bolts securing the caliper adaptor bracket to the fork are tight. 3. Install the wheel, making sure the brake rotor fits into the slot in the caliper. 4. Turn the two pad adjustment knobs counter-clockwise fully. tighten Adaptor Bracket Bolts turn Fully turn Fully Brake Rotor Outer pad adjusting knob Inner pad adjusting knob (attached to wheel)
  • Page 77 1. Turn the outer pad-adjustment knob about 1/2 turn clockwise. 2. Turn the inner pad-adjustment knob clockwise until it stops, locking the rotor. This aligns the caliper body and pads to the rotor face. 3. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts, alternating between the two turn until as you secure them fully. tight 4. Thread the brake cable through the caliper as shown and secure ½ turn it with the cable fixing bolt. Do not allow the caliper arm to move upward while securing the bolt. 5. Set pad clearance. Loosen outer pad adjusting knob approximately 1⁄4 turn counter-clockwise. Loosen inner pad adjusting knob approximately 1⁄2 turn counter-clockwise. Inner pad (fixed pad) to rotor gap should appear larger than the outer Outer pad adjusting knob Inner pad adjusting knob...
  • Page 78 derailleur systems The derailleur system includes the font and rear derailleurs, the shift Freewheel levers, and the derailleur control cables, all of which must function Pulley Adjustment correctly for smooth gear shifting to occur. Screw Guide Pulley Adjustment derailleur Screws Although the front and rear derailleurs are initially adjusted at the factory, you will need to inspect and readjust both before riding Tension Pulley Cable Barrel the bicycle.
  • Page 79 Shift the rear shifter to the gear one and place the chain on the largest cog. Adjust the Low limit screw in quarter turn increments until the guide pulley and the largest cog are aligned vertically. Again, shift through each gear several times, checking that each gear is achieved smoothly. It may take several attempts before the rear derailleur and cable is adjusted properly. Low Adjusting Screw High Adjusting Cable Anchor Bolt ensure all bolts are secured tightly and the chain Screw does not fall off in either direction. Front derailleur Chainguide Derailleur Cage clearance of Shift both shifters to the smallest number indicated and place the 1-3mm chain on the corresponding cog and chainwheel. Disconnect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt. Check the position of the front derailleur;...
  • Page 80 accessories If your bike is supplied with a water bottle and cage, attach the Saddle Bag cage to the bicycle using the Allen bolts provided. Frame Bag Some bikes come equipped with a saddle bag or frame bag. The saddle bag installs under the seat with the zipper facing Reflector Reflector the rear wheel. Undo the straps that wrap around the bag, thread them through the rails underneath the seat and secure around the bag. The smaller strap wraps around the seat post. Frame bags install at the apex of the top and seat tubes.
  • Page 81 Rear Fender The rear fender is mounted at the seatstay brace. There are two ways in which to mount your rear fender. The first is the screw mounting system (see figure 3), and the second is the 10mm bolt and screw system (see figure 4). Identify the mounting system used on your bicycle and follow the given instructions for that particular type of mounting system. 1. screw Mounting system First remove the rear wheel. Place the fender assembly between the stays, making sure the fender bracket holes line up with those...
  • Page 82 Final check • After all adjustments have been made, shift through every gear several times at varying speeds. This will ensure all your adjustments are correct and will allow you to pinpoint any trouble areas. If you encounter any problems, refer to the appropriate section and make any necessary adjustments. • Check the tire pressure and inflate each tube to the recommended psi as stated on the sidewall of the tire. • Check that the kickstand operates smoothly and the kickstand bolt is secured tightly.
  • Page 83 correct routine maintenance of your new bike will ensure smooth running - longer lasting components - safer riding - lower running costs Every time you ride your bicycle, its condition changes. The more you ride, the more frequently maintenance will be required. We recommend you spend a little time on regular maintenance tasks. The following schedules are a useful guide and by referring to Part 6 of this manual, you should be able to accomplish most tasks. If you require assistance, we recommend you see a bicycle specialist.
  • Page 84 schedule 2 - service checklist Frequency task page Reference Before every ride Be sure batteries are fully charged 41-44 Check tire pressure 87-89, 116-117 Check brake operation 68-77, 112-113 Check wheels for loose spokes Perform safety check 20-21 After every ride Be sure to fully charge batteries 41-44 Quick wipe down with damp cloth Weekly Lubrication as per schedule 1 Monthly...
  • Page 85 Frequency task page Reference Check all points as per monthly service Check and replace brake pads, if required 70-77 Check chain for excess play or wear 102-103 Yearly Lubrication as per schedule 1 tools Required 1. Open ended wrench or ring wrenches: 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm 2. Open end or pedal wrench 15mm 3. Allen key wrenches: 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm 4. Adjustable wrench 5. Standard flat head screwdriver 6. Standard Phillips head screwdriver 7. Standard slip joint pliers 8.

  • Page 86: Part 6 Detailed Maintenance

    detailed maintenance Wheels and tiRes Wheel inspection It is most important that wheels are kept in top condition. Properly maintaining your bicycle's wheels will help braking performance and stability when riding. Be aware of the following potential problems: •Dirty or greasy rims: caution: These can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean them with oily or greasy materials. When cleaning, use a clean rag or wash with soapy water, rinse and air dry. Don't ride while they're wet. When lubricating your bicycle, don't get oil on the rim braking surfaces. •Wheels not straight: Lift each wheel off the ground and spin them to see if they are crooked or out of true. If wheels are not straight, they will need to be adjusted. This is quite difficult and is best left to a bicycle repair specialist. •Broken or loose spokes: Check that all spokes are tight and that none are missing or damaged.
  • Page 87 tire inspection Tires must be maintained properly to ensure road holding and stability. Check the following areas: inflation: Ensure tires are inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. It is better to use a tire gauge and a hand pump than a service station pump. caution: If inflating tires with a service station pump, take care that sudden over inflation does not cause tire to blow out. Bead seating: When inflating or refitting tire, make sure that the bead is properly seated in the rim before you fully inflate the tire.
  • Page 88 how to Fix a Flat tire If you need to repair a tire, follow these steps: Push tire bead into the center 1. Remove the wheel from the bicycle. of the rim. 2. Deflate the tire completely via the valve. Loosen the tire bead by pushing it inward all the way around. 3. Press one side of the tire bead up over the edge of the rim. Note: Use plastic tire levers, not a screwdriver, otherwise you may damage the rim and tire. 4. Remove the tube, leaving the tire on the rim. 5. L ocate the leaks and patch using a tube repair kit, carefully following the instructions, or replace the tube. Note: Ensure that the replacement tube size matches the size stated on the tire sidewall and that the valve is the correct type for your bicycle.
  • Page 89 1. Using a hand pump, inflate the tube until the tire begins to take shape. Spin the wheel and watch the tire mold lines. They should be evenly spaced from the edge of the rim all the way around the wheel. When properly seated, fully inflate the tire to the pressure marked on the sidewall. Use a tire air pressure gauge to check 2. Replace the wheel into the frame checking that all gears, brakes and quick release levers are properly adjusted. hub Bearing adjustment Ball Bearings When checked, the hub bearings of either wheel will require Bearing Lock adjustment if there is any more than slight side play.

  • Page 90: Handlebars And Stem

    handlebars and stem stem The stem fits into the steering column and is held firmly by the action of a binder bolt and expander wedge which, when tightened, binds with the inside of the fork steerer tube. When removing the stem, loosen the stem bolt two or three turns, then give it a tap to loosen the wedge inside.
  • Page 91 When re-fitting the stem, make sure the handlebars are correctly aligned and tightened using the appropriate hex wrench or allen key. Grip Do not over tighten. Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem within Stem Bolt the fork steerer tube, by clamping the front wheel between your knees Handlebar and trying to move the handlebar up and down, and from side to side.
  • Page 92 Grip 7/8” Plastic Washers Barrel Adjuster Cable GRip shiFteRs Grip shift™ - installation 1. Slide front Grip Shift™ assembly over left side of handlebar leaving proper clearance for handlebar grip. If necessary, move the brake lever to accommodate Grip Shift™ and handlebar grip. 2. Rotate assembly until cable exits beneath brake lever with adequate clearance for brake lever movement. 3. Firmly tighten recessed clamp screw. Installation torque should be 20 in.-lbs. 4. Slide the two 7/8” plastic washers over handlebar. The washers prevent the grip from interfering with Grip Shift™ rotation. 5. Slide handlebar grip over handlebar. Thread the cable inner wire through cable housings and frame, and attach to derailleur. Make sure that the cable is in the V groove at the derailleur attachment bolt. If trimming the cable housing is necessary, be sure to replace the housing end cap. 6. Adjust indexing. 7. Slide rear Grip Shift™ over right side of handlebar and repeat steps 2 - 6. 8. Actuate front and rear brake levers to be certain of proper operation. If Grip Shift™ interferes with brake lever movement, rotate brake lever or Grip Shift™. check for proper brake lever operation again.
  • Page 93 cables and cable housing Cables and housing are one of the most overlooked parts on the bicycle. The first indication that your cables and housing need to be replaced is an increased amount of pressure needed to operate the brakes or shifters. Before every ride, check that there are no kinks or frays in the cables and housing. Also check that the housing is seated properly into each cable stop of the bicycle. It is recommended that the cables and housing are...
  • Page 94 headset standard headset inspection The headset bearing adjustment should be checked every month. This is Lock Nut important as it is the headset which locks the fork into the frame, and if loose, can cause damage or result in an accident. While standing over the frame top tube with both feet on the ground, apply the front brake firmly Lock Washer and rock the bicycle back and forth;...
  • Page 95 saddle and seat post inspection The seat fixing bolt and the seat post binder bolt should be checked for tightness and adjustment every month. On removing the seat post from the frame, you will notice a mark about 65mm up from the bottom with the words “max. height” or “minimum insertion”. Seat Fixing Bolt to avoid damage to either the seat post, the frame Seat Post Micro Adjustable Binder Bolt or possibly the rider, the minimum insertion mark Seat Post must be inside the frame. lubrication Remove the seat post from the frame and wipe off any grease, rust or dirt. Then apply a thin film of new grease to the part that will be inserted into the frame. Re-insert, adjust and tighten the seat post in the frame.
  • Page 96 adjustment As mentioned in Part 2, the seat can be adjusted in height, angle and distance from the handlebars to suit the individual rider. Seat angle is a matter of personal preference but the most comfortable position will usually be found when the top of the seat is almost parallel to the ground, or slightly raised at the front. The seat can also be adjusted by sliding it forward or back along the mounting rails to obtain the most comfortable reach to the handlebars.
  • Page 97 dRivetRain The drivetrain of a bicycle refers to all parts that transmit power to the rear wheel including the pedals, chain, chainwheel, crank set and freewheel. pedals Pedals are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials, and each are designed with a particular purpose in mind. Some pedals can be fitted with toe clips and straps. These help to keep the feet correctly positioned and allow the rider to exert pulling force, as well as downward pressure, on the pedals. Use of toe clips with straps requires practice to acquire the necessary skill to operate them safely.
  • Page 98 lubrication and adjustment Many pedals cannot be disassembled to allow access to the internal bearings and axle. However, it is usually possible to inject a little oil onto the inside bearings, and this should be done every six months. If the pedal is the type that can be fully disassembled, then the bearings should be removed, cleaned and greased every six to twelve months. Because of the wide variety of pedal types and their internal complexity, disassembly procedures are beyond the scope of this manual and further assistance should be sought from a specialist.
  • Page 99 cRanK set The crank set refers to the bottom bracket axle and bearings, the crank arms, and chainrings. Crank Bolt never ride your bike if the cranks are loose. this may be dangerous and will damage the crank arms beyond Dust Cap repair. Standard Crank Set inspection The crank set should be checked for correct adjustment and tightness every month. Crank nuts must be kept tight, and the bottom bracket Fixed Cup bearings must be properly adjusted. Remove the chain and try to move the cranks from side to side with your hands.
  • Page 100 lubrication and adjustment Bottom Bracket To adjust the free play in a three piece type bottom bracket, loosen the lockring on the left side by turning it counter-clockwise, then turn the adjusting cup as required. Re-tighten the lockring taking care not to alter the cup adjustment. to disassemble: 1. Remove the cranks from the axle. Fixed Cup Standard Crank removing tool 2. Remove the left side lockring by turning it counter-clockwise. 3. Remove the adjusting cup by turning it counter-clockwise.
  • Page 101 standard crank Replacement: Screw in the removal tool. 1. Replace the crank arm onto the axle. 2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet. Turn the screw bolt 3. Refit the washer and tighten flange nut or bolt securely to a clockwise. torque of 27Nm. 4. Replace the dust cover adjustment after use: 1. Remove dust cap. 2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet. 3. Re-tighten the flange nuts, and refit the dust caps. Position the crank on the axle. new cranks may become loose with initial use. perform the following task after several hours of Lightly tap the crank onto the axle. riding, and repeat it two or three times after further use. cranks should then remain tight. Tighten the flange nut. Replace the dust cap.
  • Page 102 chains inspection The chain must be kept clean, rust free and frequently lubricated in order to extend its life as long as possible. It will require replacement if it stretches, breaks, or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure that there are no stiff links, they must all move freely. lubrication The chain (bicycle and motor drive) should be lubricated with light oil at least every month, or after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions. Take care to wipe off excess oil, and not to get oil on the tires or rim braking surfaces.
  • Page 103 adjustment and Replacement On derailleur geared bicycles the rear derailleur automatically tensions the chain. To adjust the chain on single speed freewheel, coaster hub brake or internally geared bicycles: 1. Loosen the rear axle nuts (and coaster brake arm clip if fitted) and move the wheel forward to loosen, or backward to tighten, in the frame. 2. When correctly adjusted, the chain should have approximately 10mm (3/8") of vertical movement when checked in the center chain Rivet tool between the chainwheel and rear sprocket. Center the wheel in the frame and re-tighten the axle nuts after any adjustment.
  • Page 104 currie drive chain tension adjustment 1. Loosen (do not remove) the 5mm motor plate mounting bolt. 2. Loosen (counter-clockwise) the 10mm outer tension adjusting nut, then tighten (clockwise) the 10mm inner Motor plate tension adjusting nut to unclamp the chainstay tension mounting bolt bracket. 3. Loosen the 15mm outer axle nut. 4. Using a cone wrench, loosen the 17mm thin inner axle nut. 5. Slide the motor with the motor plate forward or backward to adjust the drive chain tension to allow only Outer tension Chainstay tension Inner tension about 5mm of vertical slack (3/16”).
  • Page 105 FReeWheel inspection Like the chain, the freewheel must be kept clean and well lubricated. If the chain has become worn and needs replacing, then it is likely that the freewheel will also have become worn and should also be replaced. Take the chain off the freewheel and rotate it with your hand. If you hear a grinding noise or the freewheel stops suddenly after spinning it, it may need adjustment or replacement. Such action is beyond the scope of this manual and you should consult a specialist.
  • Page 106 reFlectors Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange) reflectors. These are an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good, clean conditions at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found. Please see pages 23-24 for more information. Wear reflective clothing when riding. Attach a light to your Reflectors Reflectors bike if you ride at night.
  • Page 107 problem possible cause Remedy Gear shifts not working properly - Derailleur cables - Lubricate/tighten/replace cables sticking/stretched/damaged - Front or rear derailleur not adjusted - Adjust derailleurs properly - Indexed shifting not adjusted properly - Adjust indexing Slipping chain - Excessively worn/chipped chainring - Replace chainring, sprockets and or freewheel sprocket teeth chain - Chain worn/stretched - Replace chain - Stiff link in chain - Lubricate or replace link - Non-compatible chain/chainring/ - Seek advice at a bicycle shop freewheel Chain jumping off freewheel - Chainring out of true...
  • Page 108 problem possible cause Remedy Freewheel does not rotate - Freewheel internal pawl pins are - Lubricate. If problem persists, jammed replace freewheel Brakes not working effectively - Brake blocks worn down - Replace brake blocks - Brake blocks/rim greasy, wet or dirty - Clean blocks and rim - Brake cables are binding/stretched/damaged - Clean/adjust/replace cables - Brake levers are binding - Adjust brake levers - Brakes out of adjustment - Center brakes...
  • Page 109 problem possible cause Remedy Steering not accurate - Wheels not aligned in frame - Align wheels correctly - Headset loose or binding - Adjust/tighten headset - Front forks or frame bent - Take bike to a bike shop for possible frame realignment Frequent punctures - Inner tube old or faulty - Replace Inner tube - Tire tread/casing worn - Replace tire - Tire unsuited to rim - Replace with correct tire - Tire not checked after previous...
  • Page 110 pRoBleM possiBle cause remedy Bicycle has reduced range and/or Low batteries Charge batteries for recommended time speed Faulty or old batteries Replace batteries Low tire pressure Inflate tires to recommended pressure Brakes dragging against rim Adjust brakes and/or rim Riding in hilly terrain, headwind, etc. Reduced range to be expected in these types of terrain and/or weather conditions Hub motor makes a "clicking" Low batteries Charge batteries for recommended time noise and has reduce power and/ Damaged planetary gears Replace hub motor/wheel or shuts off No power when the switch is Blown fuse Replace fuse turned "ON"...
  • Page 111 pRoBleM possiBle cause remedy Bicycle runs at full speed without pedaling Faulty TMM sensor (Enlightened Series) Replace TMM sensor and retest Faulty throttle Replace throttle and retest Faulty controller Replace controller and retest Bicycle (RMB or STB Series) Sensor and sensor ring not aligned Realigned so gap between sensor and works in TAG mode but not in PAS sensor ring is 1-2mm mode Faulty "White Box" Replace "White Box" and retest Battery indicates full charge when Blown fuse Replace fuse tested at the charger port but Loose connectors Check all connectors bicycle does not operate Poor contact between battery terminals Inspect and clean battery terminals...

  • Page 112: Part 7 How Things Work

    how things Work It’s important to your performance, enjoyment and safety to understand how things work on your bicycle. Even if you’re an experienced bicyclist, don’t assume that the way things work on your new bike is the same as how they work on older bikes. Be sure to read and to understand this section of the Manual. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand something, talk to a qualified specialist. Brakes note: For most effective braking, use both brakes and apply them simultaneously. WaRninG: Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, causing serious injury or death. 1. how brakes work It’s important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. In the U.S., bikes are required to be set up with the right brake lever controlling the rear brake, and the left lever controlling the front brake.
  • Page 113 Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique is called progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you think you’ll generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by walking your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks. WaRninG: Some bicycle brakes, such as linear-pull and disc brakes, are extremely powerful. You should take extra care in becoming familiar with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them. Applying these brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
  • Page 114 shifting Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain, an internal gear hub drivetrain or, in some special cases, a combination of the two. 1. Why all those gears? You will get the greatest fitness benefit, produce the greatest sustained power and have the greatest endurance if you learn to spin the pedals at high revolutions per minute (called cadence) against low resistance. You will get the least fitness benefit and have the least endurance by pushing hard on the pedals against heavy resistance. The purpose of having multiple gears on a bicycle is to let you chose the gear that allows you to maintain your optimum cadence under the widest range of riding conditions. Depending on your fitness level and experience (the more fit, the higher the cadence), optimum cadence is between 60 and 90 pedal revolutions per minute.
  • Page 115 happening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can select a gear which will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear “steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called a downshift looks like an upshift.
  • Page 116 tires and tubes 1. tires Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general-purpose designs to tires designed to perform best under very specific weather or terrain conditions. Your bicycle has been equipped with tires which the bike’s manufacturer felt were the best balance of performance and value for the use for which the bike was intended. If, once you’ve gained experience with your new bike, you feel that a different tire might better suit your riding needs, your dealer can help you select the most appropriate design.
  • Page 117 2. tire valves The tire valve allows air to enter the tire’s inner tube under pressure, but doesn’t let it back out unless you want it to. There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves: The Schraeder Valve and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to the valve stems on your bicycle. All eZip and iZip bicycles use Schraeder valves The Schraeder is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate a Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and push the air hose or pump fitting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with the end of a key or other appropriate object.
  • Page 118 caution: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with some types of suspension systems. Before retrofitting a bicycle with any suspension, check with the bicycle’s manufacturer to make sure that what you want to do is compatible with the bicycle’s design. WaRninG: If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk. When braking, the front of a suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall if your skill is not up to handling this system. Get to know how to handle your suspension system safely before trying any downhill or very fast mountain biking. Suspension can increase the handling capabilities and comfort of your bicycle. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster;...
  • Page 120 Bicycle toRQue values component Recommended torque value (in-lb) headset, handlebar, seat area Seat fixing bolt (seat rail binder) 174 - 347 19.7 - 39.2 Stem handlebar binder bolts (2) 174 - 260 19.7 - 29.4 Stem wedge (binder) bolt - quill type for threaded headset 174 - 260 19.7 - 29.4 Threaded headset locknut 130 - 150 14.7 - 16.9 Threadless stem clamp bolts 120 - 144 13.6 - 16.3 crankset, Bottom Bracket, pedal area...
  • Page 121 Bicycle toRQue values, ctd. component Recommended torque value (in-lb) Wheel area Wheel axle nuts to frame/fork 260 - 390 29.4 - 44.1 Brakes Brake cable pinch bolt (linear pull) 53 - 69 6.0 - 7.8 Brake caliper (linear pull) to frame/fork 45 - 60 5.1 - 6.8 Brake lever (MTB type) 53 - 69 6.0 - 7.8 Brake pad to caliper 50 - 70 5.6 - 7.9 Disc brake caliper mount...

  • Page 122: Part 8 Purchase Record

    purchase Record card Fill in immediately and retain as a record of your purchase. *please retain your sales receipt for any possible warranty claims. your name:___________________________________________________ address: _____________________________________________________ date purchased: _______________ place of purchase: _____________ Model & Brand information: _____________________________________ Wheel size: ____________________ serial number location color: _________________________ serial number: __________________ # # # #...

This manual is also suitable for:

Ezip

Table of Contents

Save PDF