Safety Disconnecting and removing the unit from the pool immediately after each use will enhance the cleaner’s life. 150 minutes of operation in a 30’ x 60’ pool should be sufficient with no more than a few twists in the cord which should be straightened out after each use. Page 1...
Service Tools 3/8“, 5/16“, 7/16“, 1/2" Wrench 5/32“, 1/4“ Allen Wrench 3/8“, 7/16“, 1/2“ 3/8“ Ratchet Snap Ring Pliers Flat Tip and Phillips Socket Screwdriver 3/8“ Socket 1/4“ Socket Needle Nose Pliers Small Flat Tip Extension Driver Screwdriver Page 2...
Special Notes When disassembling the KingShark 2 and the KingShark 2 Plus, ONLY DIFFERENCES between the two cleaners are as follows: KingShark 2 KingShark 2 Plus 1. Standard 3 prong electrical cord 1. Different pigtail connections. 2. RCX400388 3/4 h.p. w/o swivel.
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230 VAC Supply to Master Control Panel When supplying 230 VAC instead of 115 VAC to the Master control panel, the following jumper cable switch must be moved. 1. Move the jumper wire connection E9 to E7 230 VAC connection on the RELAY BOARD just above the transformer.
Removal of Hood Step 1: Step 2: Remove the two 1/4" – 20 X 3/4" SS bolts from both Pull the cartridge handle quick release sides of the cleaner using a 7/16” socket. UP and then pull the cartridge assembly back and away from the cleaner.
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Removal of Hood Step 3: Step 4: Unscrew the filter retainer knob using a Slide the hood cover over the swivel assembly. 5/32” Allen Wrench. Page 6...
Filter Removal Step 6: Step 5: Pull and slide the filter assembly backwards and Pull up on the yellow quick release handle assembly. away from the cleaner. Page 7...
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Filter Removal Step 7: Lift the housing assembly off the tie rods Lift the cartridges up and off the Remove the push style clips / back plate. back plate. To clean the filters, spray with clean water. Back Plate Note : Never remove or adjust the 4 nuts Page 8...
Power Cord Removal Step 8: 1. Using a flat tip screwdriver and 3/8” wrench, remove the swivel cord clamp. 2. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the four screws connecting the power end to the swivel. 3. When reconnecting the power end to the swivel or motor, make sure to use RTV # 162 silicone rubber sealant and replace the o-ring.
Swivel Removal Step 9: ” socket, remove the two 1/4" – Using a 7/16 Remove the four screws connecting the power 20 X 1-1/4" hex head bolts from the swivel cord to the motor end. mounting bracket. Note: Make sure to use RTV # 162 Silicone Rubber Sealant when reconnecting the power cord and replace the o-ring.
Accessing the Impeller Step 10: 1. Use a 7/16" socket to remove the two plastic bolts and impeller access plate from the pump housing. 2. After removing the impeller access plate, this will allow you to inspect the impeller and check for debris or damage inside the impeller area.
Drive Belt Removal Step 11: 1. Remove right side drive belt. 2. Remove left side drive belt. Note : When putting the drive belts back on, put the LEFT side on first, then the RIGHT side. This will prevent possible torque damage where the gear box assembly meets the front housing bell, since the larger support bracket is on the left side of the gearbox assembly.
Intake Removal Step 12: 1. Unscrew the 4 screws holding the intake to the base plate, also remove the SS wire baffle. 2. Remove the intake stabilizer from the intake. The stabilizer prevents large debris from entering the cleaner. NOTE : When removing and reinstalling the Intake, be aware of the 2 plastic washers that seat between the Intake and the base plate.
Drive Wheel Disassembly Step 13: 1. Using the snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the front wheels and the rear drive wheels. 2. After removing the snap rings from the wheels, pull the front wheels from the base plate and remove the drive wheels from the gear box assembly.
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Drive Wheel Disassembly Step 14: 1. Use the snap ring pliers to remove the 4 E-Clips from the L & R drive wheels. Remove the 4 plastic washers / spacers. from the drive wheels – Each set of screws indicate LEFT 2.
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Drive Wheel Disassembly Step 15: 3. Remove the Sun Gear 1. Remove the 4 Button Washers 2. Remove the Gear Ring 4. Remove the 4 Planetary Gears 5. Remove the Wheel Lock Page 16...
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Drive Wheel Reassembly 1. When reinstalling the drive wheels, make sure the Wheel Locks are installed in the correct direction and position. The photo’s below indicate the correct position and direction. 2. The outside wheel plate screws must match the L or R indicator markings on the outside wheel plates. Page 17 LEFT DRIVE WHEEL RIGHT DRIVE WHEEL...
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Motor Separation Step 16: 1. Use a 1/4" allen wrench to remove the 2 bolts and washers. Once these are removed, lift the motor from the base plate. 2. Use a 1/2" socket to remove the 5 bolts and washers that hold the motor to the pump housing. 3.
Pump Housing / Gear Box Disassembly Step 17: 1. Use a 7/16" socket to remove the 3 bolts from the pump housing. Pull the pump housing from the gear box assembly. 2. After removing the 3 - 7/16" bolts, note the length and location of each bolt for reinstallation. Gear Box Assembly Pump Housing Page 19...
Solenoid Disassembly Step 18: 1. Use a 7/16" wrench to remove the 4 retention nuts from the U bolts. 2. Once the 4 retention nuts are removed, the solenoids can be set aside. To separate the solenoids from the motor, pull and separate at the quick connection at the solenoid. Note: Solenoids are marked left (L) and right (R) .
Bumper / Cable Assembly Removal Step 19: 1. Remove the two 3/8” nuts (top), four flathead screws (center), and two pins (bottom). bar. 2. Slide the bumper from the arm sensor Note: Both the reversing arms and cable assembly can be turned over and be reused Page 21...
Instructions for Reinstalling the Cable Assembly Cable assembly’s do not come pre-tensioned from the manufacturer Back to front view - TOP 1. Tension cables / cable assembly are adjustable. 2 plastic spacers Once the cable assembly is reinstalled, push in 1 plastic spacer on the sensor bar.
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Master Control Panel Relay Board / Receiver Board 24 VDC relays Antenna Transformer Receiver Board AC to DC rectifier 24 VDC relays Relay Board Power out to cleaner Incoming power supply Page 23...
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Master Control Panel Timer Board (Back Side of Front Panel) Display ribbon cable Note: Ribbon cable disconnects at the Timer Board Fuse Powe On / Off Switch Power Indicator Light Auto Turn On / Off Switch Page 24...
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Master Control Panel Step 20: Power cord MUST be plugged If you supply power to the master control panel and you into a grounded electrical have no display, this is NORMAL. outlet equipped with Unless you have the Cannon Plug power cord from the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter swivel connected to the 2 center ports, the display will be...
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Master Control Panel Step 21: Correct power to Master Control Panel but NO display Make sure power is ON. Put one meter lead on L1 connection and one lead on L2, 115 VAC should be present. Put meter lead on the on/off switch and one lead to ground, 115 VAC should be present. NOTE: Check voltage on LEFT connection of switch Page 26...
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Master Control Panel Correct power to Master Control Panel and NO display Check for a blown fuse. Twist the fuse left and pull out for access. Slo-Blo 1 amp / 250VP Do a continuity check on the fuse to verify if fuse is good or bad Page 27...
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Master Control Panel Cannon Plug Step 22: To verify 115 VAC is being supplied through the female cannon plug receiver, install a jumper wire into the 2 center ports. Power the unit on and press the“Start“ button “RUN“ until is on the display. Then, stick one meter lead into the black port and the other lead into the white or green port.
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Master Control Panel Step 23: Timer PCB Testing On RELAY PCB at REMOTE J4 - Using RED lead of DC voltmeter at green wire on J4 and BLACK lead of DC voltmeter at COM (E12). Voltmeter should read 24 VDC. Now, push RIGHT TURN button on the remote, voltmeter should read 0 VDC –...
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Master Control Panel Step 24: RELAY PCB Testing On RELAY PCB at J3 (B A G H F) Yellow wire is the common wire to both solenoids Blue wire is the LEFT Turn solenoid Brown wire is the RIGHT Turn solenoid - Using DC Voltmeter, check voltage between the yellow wire and the blue wire.
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Master Control Panel Step 25: 1. After testing the RELAY PCB Board (Step 24), if the tests do not match the correct voltages, then the RELAY PCB Board will need to be replaced. 2. If the problem still exists after replacing the RELAY PCB Board, remove the cannon plug from the master control panel.
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Voltage Check to Swivel Step 26: To verify voltage is passing through the power supply cord to the swivel : 1. Power the system off 2. Disconnect the power end connection at the swive Power the system ON and make sure the light is illuminated.
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Voltage Check to Motor Step 27: To verify voltage is getting through the swivel to the MOTOR : 1. Power the system off 2. Disconnect the power end connection at the motor 3. Power the system on and make sure the light is on the display 4.
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Ohm Check at Motor Step 28: Ohm meter -0.9 ohms-1.3 ohms for 115 VAC -4.3 ohms-6.3 ohms for 240 VAC Page 34...
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Cord Inspection Step 29: Undo the power connection at the swivel. Remember to replace the o-ring and to use RTV #162 silicone rubber sealant when reconnecting the swivel connector end. 1. Make sure the cannon plug is connected. Power the unit on. Press the start button until is displayed.
KingShark 2 / KingShark 2 Plus Tips Sensor Bar adjustments and other minor repairs (Make all adjustments in ¼" increments) A. Raise Sensor Bar if machine: 1. Fails to climb out of deep end. 2. Turns or hesitates on pool drain.
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Serial Number Locations – March 2010 & prior Serial numbers for the Commercial Units can be found in the three locations indicated below A=January J=September First two numbers of a serial number: LETTER: B=February K=October 10 = MAKOSHARK C=March L=November 30 = MAKOSHARK2 M=December D=April...
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Serial Number Locations after March 2010 Currently we are using the 17 digit serial number sequence used on Hayward products. This will be located on the gear box assembly and on the motor. Example: Model # Serial # RC9860DCC 21121102005246000...
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Mako 2 & King Shark Troubleshooting TABLE OF CONTENTS Filter Removal Page 40 Handle Removal Page 41 Filter Housing Removal Page 42 Hood Removal Page 43 Cord Assembly Removal Page 44 Drive Belt Removal Page 45 Gearbox Assembly Removal Page 46 Impeller and Motor Removal Pages 47-48 Pump Housing and Base Disassembly...
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Filter Removal Step 1: Remove both clips from the rear Step 2: Remove the back cover from the of the unit. filter housing. Note: Elements can be cleaned by gently spraying with a garden hose. Be careful not to use high Step 3: Remove filter elements.
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Handle Removal Step 1: Use a flat head screwdriver on both ends of the handle pin to unscrew and remove. Page 41...
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Filter Housing Removal Slide Ring Adapter off the housing and remove the two screws to remove the ring Step 1: adapter from cord. Step 2: Lift the filter housing from the cleaner. Page 42...
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Hood Removal Step 1: Remove the bolt from the handle Step 2: Remove the handle riser. riser using 7/16” socket. Step 3: Remove the hat riser. Step 4: Lift the body off. Page 43...
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Cord Assembly Removal Step 1: Remove the bolt from the pump Remove the 4 screws Step 2: housing using a 7/16" socket. from the motor. Step 3: Pull the plug away from the motor. Note: When replacing the cord assembly clean surface thoroughly and use new o-ring and RTV #162 White Silicone for a water tight seal.
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Drive Belt Removal Step 1: Looking at the cleaner from the rear, remove the RIGHT drive belt from the rear wheel, and then the front wheel. Step 2: Remove the LEFT belt. Note: Look at the cleaner from the rear and note that the gear box has a Support on the left side of the unit.
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Gear Box Assembly Removal Step 1: Remove the five bolts from the rear of the gear box assembly using a 7/16" socket. Step 2: Pull the gear box away from the pump housing. Gear Box Page 46...
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Impeller and Motor Removal Step 1: Pull the impeller from the Pull the impeller drive collar Step 2: impeller drive collar. from the motor shaft. Page 47...
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Impeller and Motor Removal Step 3: Remove the 3 motor screws. Step 4: Slide the motor away from the pump housing. Page 48...
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Pump Housing and Base Disassembly Step 1: Remove the 2 blue intake blades by pulling them from the slide. Step 2: Remove the two bolts from the bottom of the unit using a 1/2" socket. Step 3: Remove the pump housing from the base. Page 49...
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Pump Housing and Base Disassembly Step 4: Remove the snap ring from the front wheel. Step 5: Slide the wheel off of the axle. Step 6: Repeat the 2 previous steps on the opposite side of the base. Note: Sensor Bar and Reversing Arms are both reversible. As they become worn, they can be turned over to use the other side.
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Pump Housing and Base Disassembly Step 7: Remove the 2 flat head screws from the sensor bar. This will allow removal of the sensor bar from the base. Step 8: Pull the 2 cotter pins at the opposite end of the cables. Page 51...
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Pump Housing and Base Disassembly Remove the two bolts from the reversing arms using a 5/16” socket. Step 9: Note: There are washers located on either side of the Washer locations reversing arm to allow smooth movement. Note: The steps to disassemble & reassemble the drive wheels are identical to those of the KingShark II and KingShark II Plus.
Troubleshooting Sensor Bar adjustments and other minor repairs (make all adjustments in ¼” increments). A. Raise Sensor Bar if machine: 1. Fails to climb out of the deep end. 2. Turns or hesitates on pool drain. 3. Turns away from curved wall too soon. B.
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Troubleshooting Loss of vacuuming action: A. Filter may be clogged, slowing the flow of water through the unit. Clean the filters. B. Suction area may be obstructed by large object. No apparent power: A. If the machine does not move: 1.