To Test The Water Fill System - Electrolux Side by Side Refrigerators Service Manual

TO TEST THE WATER FILL SYSTEM

The wiring harness has two diodes in the line between the fill switch on the ice maker and the green coil of the secondary
water valve, as well as a water switch or relay on the freezer door and a secondary valve. The diodes are part of the wiring
harness. (See wiring diagram Figure H10).
If the diodes fail open, the primary valve will not open for ice or water, depending on which diode is open. The open diode
will not affect the coil on the secondary valve. The secondary valve will open but if the primary valve does not open, no
water will be supplied to the secondary valve.
Resistance Check
Voltage Check
Digital Meter
Voltage Drop
From Heater
Valve Coil
Voltage Readings
Are Different Between secondary, you have a bad diode. If you are getting 48 to 58 volts at the primary valve and 90
Primary And
Secondary Valve
Coils
No Water at Door
Diode Kit
Checking Water
Valves
Ice Maker Valve
(Green Coil)
Chilled Water Valve
(Yellow Coil)
TECHNICAL NOTE:
To test the diodes, use an ohmmeter with at least a 10K ohm or higher scale. Take a reading
across the diode. Reverse your leads and take another reading. The diode should check 10
times higher in one direction than the other.
Use a voltmeter to check the circuit. Connect a voltmeter to the valve coil of the primary valve.
If the problem is with the ice maker, connect a second voltmeter to the green coil of the
secondary valve, or the yellow coil of the secondary valve if the problem is with the water
dispenser.
If you are using a good meter, you will read between 0 and 10 volts with a open diode on
the primary valve, but you will have over 90 at the secondary valve.
When checking the voltage on an ice maker fill cycle, remember that the coils of the
water valves are in series with the heater on the ice maker. The resistance of the heater
will cause a drop in voltage. (Example: if you have 110 to120 Volts at the outlet with the product
running, between 92 and 101 Volts will be present at the green coil of the secondary valve.)
The production valves use a 20 watt coil to open the valve. This should open the valve down
to about 90 volts at the green coil of the secondary valve. If the voltage is lower than 90 Volts
but above 80, install a 50 watt service coil (Part Number 5304401081 - NOTE: THIS SERVICE
COIL IS FOR 120 VOLT USE ONLY!). Keep in mind you must replace the coil on the primary
and the green coil on the secondary valve to resolve the problem.
If you read 10 volts or less at the primary valve but you read 85 to 100 Volts at the
or higher at the secondary, this is normal. With the current flowing to the primary valve coil
through the diode, you are getting 30 cycle instead of 60 cycle current at the coil of the primary
valve. Because of this, your meter will only read about 1/2 the voltage that is going to the coil.
If the ice maker operates but you cannot get water out of the dispenser, the test and operation
of the diode is the same as it is for the ice maker, except for voltage readings. On the water
side, you should read the same voltage at the coil of the secondary valve as you have at the
outlet. On the primary valve, the voltage should read 60 to 70 VAC. If the voltage is low at the
primary but good at the secondary, you have a bad diode. If the voltage is low at both the primary
and secondary valves, you have a bad connection or a bad switch in the door dispenser.
If you have a problem with the diodes,order diode kit (part number 5304418384). (See Figure
H8.) The diodes are part of the wiring harness for the machine compartment.
If your voltage checks indicate you have correct voltage at the coils but the valve is not
letting water through, replace the valve. To see which valve is bad, disconnect the water
line running from the filter to the inlet of the secondary valve. Place the line in a bucket.
Run the ice maker through a fill cycle and see if water passes through the valve and the filter
into the bucket. If it does, replace the secondary valve. If it does not, remove the primary valve,
disconnect the outlet line from the primary valve, and run the ice maker through a fill cycle. If
still no water, replace the primary valve. If water is coming through, replace the water filter.
Place a glass against the actuator and push in to see if water will pass through the valve and
the filter into the bucket. If it does, replace the secondary valve. If it does not, remove the
primary valve, disconnect the outlet line from the primary valve, and place a glass against the
actuator and push. If still no water, replace the primary valve. If water is coming through, replace
the water filter.
All readings are for 120 volt units. Similar voltage drops will be found on 220 volt units.
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