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SERVICE MANUAL
0
SEWING MACHINE
MODEl.
385. 17126690/Iq
_
NOVEMBER, 1996
SERVICE ACCESS AND ADJUSTMENT
IS THE SAME AS MODEL 385.
17822490

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Summary of Contents for Kenmore 385.17126690

  • Page 1 SERVICE MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEl. 385. 17126690/Iq NOVEMBER, 1996 SERVICE ACCESS AND ADJUSTMENT IS THE SAME AS MODEL 385. 17822490...
  • Page 2 SERVICE MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385. 17822490 JULY, 1994...
  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    CONTENTS LOCATE AND IDENTIFYTHEPARTS................ WHAT TO DO WHEN....................THREADING OF MACHINE ..................SERVICEACCESS FACE COVER ..............TOP COVER ..............BOI"I'OM BASE PLATE ............BED COVER ..............BELTCOVER ..............FRONT COVER ............... REAR PANEL UNIT............. MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION ..............PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT ..........NEEDLE SWING ...............
  • Page 4: Locate And Identifytheparts

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS Thread Spool Pin Bobbin Winding Spindle Upper Thread Guide Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Control Stitch Width Setting Window TOp Thread Tension Control Sfftch Length Setting Window Face Cover plate Stitch Selector •...
  • Page 5: What To Do When

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 WHAT TO DO WHEN CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 1. SKIPPING 1. NEEDLE IS NOT INSERTED INSERT T HENEEDU_ PROPERLY. STITCHES PROPERLY. 2. NEEDLE IS BENTOR WORN. CHANGE THE NEEDLE. 3. INCORRECTLY THREADED. RETHREAD.
  • Page 6 SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 1. tNmAL SEWING SPEEDIS 3. BREAKING STARTWITH MEDIUM SPEED. UPPER TOO FAST. THREAD 2. THREAD PATH IS USETHE PROPERTHREAD INCORRECT, PATH. 3. NEEDLE ISBENT OR DULL. REPLACE WITHA NEW NEEDLE. 4.
  • Page 7 SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 6. NOISY 1, BACKLASH BETWEEN P.27 SEE MECHANICAL SHUTTLEHOOK GEAR AND OPERATION ADJUSTMENT "BACKLASH LOWERSHAFTGEAR ISTOO (LOWER SHAFT GEAR)," GREAT. 2. LOWER SHAFTGEAR IS ELIMINATETHE LOOSENESS. LOOSE. 3. INAPPROPRIATE BELT P.34 SEE MECHANICAL...
  • Page 8: Threading Of Machine

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 THREADING OF MACHINE THE NUMBERED STEPSBELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS. DOTrED LINES SHOW PLACES WHERE LOOPS AND THEN ISPULLED TIGHT. RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU.
  • Page 9: Serviceaccess

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 SERVICE ACCESS FACE COVER OPEN THE FACE COVER (A). REMOVETHE SCREWS (B). TAKE THE FACE COVER (A) OFF. TOP COVER _ (B) (C) _ OPEN THE FACE COVER (A). REMOVE SCREWS (B) AND (C). TAKE THE TOP COVER (D) OFF.
  • Page 10: Boi"I'om Base Plate

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.17822490 SERVICE ACCESS BoI"rOM BASE PLATE REMOVE 4 SCREWS (A). REMOVE THE BASE PLATE (B). BED COVER REMOVE 2 SCREWS (D). REMOVE THE BED COVER (E). • WHEN YOU REPLACE THE BED COVER, SETTHE DROP LEVER (F) IN THE LEFTPOSITION...
  • Page 11: Beltcover

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.17822490 SERVICE ACCESS BELTCOVER B_TCOVER PROJECTION _ TO REMOVE PULL THE SELECTOR DIAL (A) OFF. LOOSEN SCREW (B) AND REMOVE SCREW (C). THEN REMOVE THE BELTCOVER IN THE DIRECTION OF ARROW. AS ILLUSTRATED. TO ATTACH THE PROCEDURE ISTHE REVERSEOF REMOVAL. (MAKE SURE THE PROJECTION OF THE BELT COVER GOES IN THE GROOVE OF THE FRONT COVER.)
  • Page 12: Front Cover

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 SERVICE ACCESS FRONT COVER MODEL18830 ONLY OPEN THE FACE COVER . REMOVE THE TOP COVER, THE BELTCOVER AND THE BED COVER. REMOVE SCREW (A), (B), (C] AND (D). LOOSEN SCREWS (E), (F), AND (G), THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER (H). ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: PULL THE FRONT COVER OFF THE LATCH (I) OF THE REAR COVER.
  • Page 13: Rear Panel Unit

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.17822490 SERVICE ACCESS REAR PANEL UNIT n4/IST AND REMOVE THEARM COVER PART PRE,_ER FOOT LEVER FROM THE PRESSERBAR LIFTERLEVER. FREE ARM COVER REAR PANEL UNIT - REMOVAL- OPEN THE FACE PANEL. REMOVE THE TOP COVER UNIT, THE BELTCOVER AND THE BED COVER UNIT. REMOVE SETSCREWS (A) ,(B), (C), AND LOOSEN SETSCREWS (D) - (F).
  • Page 14: Mechanical Adjustment

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION TO CHECK: SETTHE TENSION DIAL AT "3 *AND RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT. PASSTHE THREAD (A) BEI_VEEN THE DISCS AND DRAW THETHREAD (A) DOWN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER AS IN FIG. 1. LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT AND BRING THETHREAD (A) UP.
  • Page 15: Presser Bar Height And Alignment

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT TO CHECK: RAISE THE PRESSERFOOT LEVER (B). THE DISTANCE BETWEENTHE ZIGZAG FOOT (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (C) SHOULD BE 6.0 MM (0.24"). * IF THISIS NOT THE CASE, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS. ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER.
  • Page 16: Needleswing

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLESWING TO CHECK: IF THE NEEDLE BAR MOVES SIDEWISE WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC IN ZIGZAG STITCHING, ADJUST IN AS FOLLOWS: (THE NEEDLE SHOULD STARTSWINGING WHEN 2 TO 3MM ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE.) ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVETHETOPCOVER(UNIT),SETTHEPAI"I"ERNSELECTORDIALAT"...
  • Page 17: Straight Stitching

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRAIGHT STITCHING TO CHECK: SETTHE STITCH WIDTH DIAL AT'O'AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT VVV TURN THE HAND WHEEL BY HAND. THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT SWING SIDE TO SIDE AT THISSEllING. WIDT(_ SELECTED PAlq-ERN STITCH WIDTH DIAL...
  • Page 18 SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRAIGHT STITCHING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE TOP COVER. LOOSEN SCREW (A). MOVE THE ZIGZAG WIDTH ROD (B) UNT1LTHE NEEDLE CEASES ITS ZIGZAG MOVEMENT WHEN YOU TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU. TIGHTEN SCREW [A) SECURELY.
  • Page 19: Distribution Of Needleswing

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLESWING TO CHECK: SETTHE STITCHWIDTH DIAL TO "O" AND THE STITCHSELECTOR AT VVV. RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITSHIGHEST POSITION. PLACE THE DARNING PLATE ON THE NEEDLE PLATE. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE DARNING PLATEAND LOWER THE PRESSERFOOT.
  • Page 20: Distribution Of Needle Swing

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLESWING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER AND LOOSEN SET SCREW (D). MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER(E) EITHERDIRECTION UNTIL THE DISTANCES A TO B AND A TO C BECOME EQUAL. TIGHTEN SETSCREW (D) SECURELY.
  • Page 21: Stretch Stttchbalance

    SEW/ING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCHSTITCH BALANCE TO CHECK: • STITCH LENGTH DIAL AT STRETCH STITCH AND I. SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT _ _ STRETCHSTITCH ADJUSTER AT I_- PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSERFOOT. TURN THE HAND WHEEL TO MARK NEEDLE POINTS ON THE PAPER.
  • Page 22 SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCHSTITCH BALANCE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: I. REMOVE THE CAP (F). IFTHE REVERSE STITCHLENGTH (B)ISSHORTER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH (A), TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW (E) IN THE DIRECTION OF (C). IF THE REVERSESTITCHLENGTH [B) IS LONGER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH (A), TURN THE ADJUSTING SCRE--3N (E) IN THE DIRECTION OF (D).
  • Page 23: Feeddog H_.-_-It

    SE-_VINGMACHINE D1V.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT TO CHECK: SETTHE STITCH LENGTH DIAL AT 4 AND RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT AND PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE (#68499) ON THE NEEDLE PLATE.
  • Page 24 SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE BED COVER. LOOSEN THE NUT ( A ) AND THE SCREW ( B ). TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW ( C ) IN THE DIRECTION OF ( D ) WHEN THE FEED DOG HEIGHT IS LOW.
  • Page 25: Needle Bar Height

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING: SETTHE STITCHSELECTOR AT _ , ZIG ZAG WIDTH AT 0. TO CHECK: TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR ( F ) REACHES ITSLOWEST POSITION. * IF FINGER (G) COMES DOWN ON TOP OF PIN (H), OR IF PiN [I) TOUCHES THE SURFACE OF GAUGE (IO TOO FORCEFULLY, ADJUST AS PER THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE NEXT PAGE.
  • Page 26 SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLEBAR HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER. LOOSEN THE SCREW ( M ) ON THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER ( L ), MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR ( F ) UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE POSITION OF THE NEEDLE BAR (F) SO THAT THE FACE (G) HITSTHE SIDE OF PIN ( H ) AND THE END OF PIN ( I ) TOUCHES THE GAUGE FACE (K).
  • Page 27: Needle To Shuttletiming

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.]7822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHUTTLETIMING SETTHE STITCH SELECTOR AT i , ZIGZAG WIDTH AT 0. ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE NEEDLE, PRESSER FOOT, NEEDLE PLATE ( A ) AND BOBBIN HOLDER (B]. INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE _58497 ( C ) SO THAT THE SMALL FINGER ON THE GAUGE FITSINTO THE SLOT NEAR THE TIP OF THE HOOK.
  • Page 28 SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHLIITLETIMING ADJUST PROCEDURE: 1. REMOVE TESTPIN #_58368 FROM THE NEEDLE CLAMP. REMOVE THE TOP COVER. 3. REMOVE THE SCREW (G) AND TAKE THE BOBBIN WINDER UNIT ( H ) OFF. 4.
  • Page 29: Needleclearance To Shuttle

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLECLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE TO CHECK: SETTHE STITCH SELECTOR AT _ REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THETESTPIN #68368 (A). TURN THE HAND WHEEL SLOWLY BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES ITSLOWEST POSITION. THE CLEARANCE BETWEENTHE TESTPIN (A) AND THE SHARP END (8) OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK SHOULD BE BETWEEN +0.05 AND - 0.10 MM.
  • Page 30: Backlash (Lower Shaft Gear)

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BACKLASH ( LOWER SHAFT GEAR ) TO CHECK: REMOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE AND BOBBIN HOLDER. TURN THE HAND WHEEL SLOWLY TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE TIP OF THE SHUllLE HOOK (A) IS BETWEEN BOTH ENDS (B) OF THE FEED DOG. ROTATE THE HOOK RACE CLOCKWISE AND COUNTER CLOCKWISE BY HAND AND CHECK THE PLAY.
  • Page 31 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTrONHOLESTITCHBALANCE TO CHECK: I. SETTHE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS: STITCHSELECTOR ....STITCHLENGTH DIAL... BLUE ZONE STITCHWIDTH DIAL..... 2. AnACH THE SLIDING BUTTONHOLE. 3. SEW Bu'rrONHOLE AND CHECK THE STITCH BALANCE BETWEEN THE RIGHT SIDE AND LEFTSIDEOF BUTiONHOLE. 4. THE CORRECT BuTrONHOLE STITCHBALANCE IS WHEN THERE ISTHE SAME COARSE ON THE RIGHTAND LEFTSIDESOF BUTTONHOLE.
  • Page 32: Buironhole Stitchbalance

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE CAP. LOOSEN SETSCREW (A). IF1HERIGHTSIDEOF THEBuTrONHOLE ISTOO SPAJ'4SE, TURNTHERING (B) IN 11-1E D IRF=C11ON O F (D). IF THE LEFTSIDEOF THE BUTfONHOLE ISTOO SPARSE,TURN THE RING (B) IN THE DIRECTION OF (C), TIGHTEN SETSCREW [A) SECURELY.
  • Page 33: Needle Position

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385, 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE POSITION TO CHECK: SETTHE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS: STITCH SELECTOR....STITCH LENGTH DIAL ... 5 TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO CENTER POSITION. THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT MOVE WHEN YOU TURN THE STITCHWIDTH DIAL TO "O." SELECTEDPA'I3-E RN STITCH WIDTH DIAL...
  • Page 34 SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLEPOSITION ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVETHE TOP COVER. TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTILTHE NEEDLE COMES TO THECENTER OF THE SLIT IN THE NEEDLE PLATE. LOOSEN SCREWS (A) AND (B). TIGHTEN SCREW (A) SLIGHTLY. MOVE THE PLATE (C) TO EITHER DIRECTION AS SHOWN BY THE ARROW UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES MOVEMENT,...
  • Page 35: Zero Feeding

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT ZERO FEEDING TO CHECK: I. SETTHE STITCHSELECTOR TO ..AND THE STITCHLENGTH DIAL TO "0." 2. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE. 3. CHECK IFTHE PAPER MOVES FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN YOU TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD...
  • Page 36: Zero Feeding

    SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT ZERO FEEDING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE TOP COVER. SETTHE STITCH SELECTOR AT ..AND THE STITCHLENGTH DIATL AT "O." PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE. IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD, TURN ADJUSTING SCREW (C) IN DIRECTION (A). IF THE PAPER MOVES BACKWARD, TURN ADJUSTING SCREW (C) IN DIRECTION (B).
  • Page 37: Motor Belttension

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELTTENSION TO CHECK: I. IFTHE MOTOR BELT TENSION ISTOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE, IT MAY CAUSE BELTNOISE. ALSO. A TOO TIGHT BELTTENSION CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO RUN SLOW AND WILL OVERLOAD THE MOTOR.
  • Page 38: Oiung

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 OILING FACTORY LUBRICATED PARTSWILL PROVIDE YEARS OF HOUSEHOLD SEWING WITHOUT ROUTINE OILING. BUT YOU SHOULD STILL CHECK FOR POSSIBLE LUBRICATION NEEDS WHENEVER SERVICING MACHINES. OIL: USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS (A, 8, C, D, E & F) INDICATED BY THE BLACK ARROWS.
  • Page 39: Wiring Of Terminalblock

    SEWtNG MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 385. 17822490 WIRING OF TERMINAL BLOCK L : LAMP P : POWER SW{TCH M : MOTOR...
  • Page 40: Special Tools Required

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 17822490 SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE .fl_8499 NEEDLE HEIGHT GAUGE #68168 ALLEN SCREW DRIVER TESTPIN #68368 ALLEN WRENCH _AUGE #68497 RADIAL TIMING GAUGE SHEET#U 1369C...

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