Vertical-Up Welding - Craftsman 113.201372 Owner's Manual

VERTICAL*UP 90°
WELOIHG
Figure 6
Figure 9
4",
J
Figure TO
Use 1/8 and 5/32-1nch rods for all vertical-up welds and
start by running practice beads from bottom to top of a
3/16 or 1/4-inch plate, tack-welded in a vertlca_ position
Hold the rod as shown in figure 6, noting that the angle
of the rod is not as steep as for vertical-down welding, but
tilted just slightly (approximately five degrees) so the tip
of the electrode points upward. Strike and hold o short arc
until a small amount of metal is deposited, then quickly
raise the rod upward with a wrist movement to increase the
length of the arc at the top of the stroke (fig. 7). As soon
as the metal deposited in the crater has solidified, bring the
rod down and deposit more metah Keep repeating this
whipping motion, while gradually moving the rod upward
and toward the plate as the electrode burns off. The length
of the stroke will depend upon the amount of metal de_
posited and the welding current esed_ Keep the rod in
constant motion once it has left the crater. The purpose
of a long arc is to prevent any metal from being deposited
except when the rod is held at the crater. If globules of
molten metal drop from the tip of the rod when the arc is
lengthened, either the current is too high or the rod has
remained away from the crater too long. Care should be
token not to break the arc at the top of the stroke. Do not
deposit too much metal at one time as this will cause the
weld to sag and result in a high narrow bead undercut
along the sides. Better penetration can be had by the
vertical-up method_ This can be demonstrated by ioinlng
two pieces of 3/16-inch metal with a butt weld, using the
whipping motion.. Leave a gap between the plates and use
a 5/32-inch rod with a fairly high current, determined by
experimenting. The whipping motion will melt the corners of
the plate and form a pocket in which to deposit the weld
metal (fig_ 8)°
Burn the rod in deep so the crater extends through to the
back side. After completing the weld, inspect the back
side for the small bead, which indicates 100-percent pene-
tration. Butt welds on heavier materials should be welded
on both sides.
On materials up to 1/4-inch thick, use the whipping motion
on small single-pass fillet welds for lap and tee-joints Larger
single-pass fillet welds can be made by the whipping motion
with a slight side-to-slde weave added and combined with
the up and down movement to make a triangular shaped
weave (fig 9). This will produce a "shelf" upon which
additional metal is deposited _ntermlttenfly as the welding
progresses. There should be a slight pause in the weaving
motion at the toes of the weld to avoid making a bead that
is too convex. Materials 1/4-inch and thicker must be bev-
eled on one or both sides, depending upon the joint
Practice making a wide bead using a side-to-side weaving
motion with a very slight whipping action at each end to
give the metal at each end a chance to solidify and avoid
undercutting along the sides of the weld (fig 10). This type
of bead is used on welds that require more than one pass
and is called the finish bead or "wash" pass. Hold a short
arc, making the bead approximately 3/4-inch wide and
fairly light, Multiple vertical welds may be made as shown
in the series of diagrams, figure 11_
Figure 11
1-12