Kenmore 33205 - Power Vent, 50 Gallon Owner's Manual page 22

Power vented gas models with hot surface ignition, for potable water heating only, not suitable for space heating, not for use in mobile homes, 40/50 gallon natural
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B,Deburring
Use aknife, plastic pipe d eburring
tool, orfile toremove burrs from
the end ofsmall diameter pipe. B e sure toremove allburrs f rom
around the inside as well as the outside ofthe pipe. Aslight chamfer
(bevel) ofabout 10°-15 °should beadded tothe end topermit easier
insertion
ofthe pipe i nto the end ofthe fitting. Failure tochamfer the
edge o fthe pipe m ay r emove cement from the fitting socket, causing
the joint toleak.
10-15 _
%
STEP B
C. Test dry fit of the joint
Tapered fitting sockets are designed so that an interfaced fit should
occur when the pipe is inserted about 1/3 to 2/3 of the way into the
socket. Occasionally, when pipe fitting dimensions are at the tolerance
extremes, it will be possible to fully insert dry pipe to the bottom of
the fitting socket. When this happens, a sufficient quantity of cement
must be applied to the joint to fill the gap between the pipe and fitting.
The gap must be filled to obtain a strong, leak-free joint.
D. Inspection,
cleaning,
priming
Visually inspect the inside of the pipe and fitting sockets and remove
all dirt, grease or moisture with a clean dry rag. If wiping fails to clean
the surfaces, a chemical cleaner must be used. Check for possible
damage such as splits or cracks and replace if necessary.
Depth-of-entry
Marking the depth of entry is a way to check if the pipe has reached
the bottom of the fitting socket in Step F. Measure the fitting depth
and mark this distance on the pipe O. D. You may want to add several
inches to the distance and make a second mark as the primer and
cement will most likely destroy your first one.
Apply primer to the surface of the pipe and fitting socket with a natural
bristle brush. This process softens and prepares the PVC or CPVC
for the solvent cementing step.
Move quickly and without hesitation
to the cementing
procedure
while the surfaces
are still wet with
primer.
E. Application
of solvent cement
• Apply the solvent cement evenly and quickly around the outside
of the pipe at a width a little greater than the depth of the fitting
socket.
• Apply a light coat of cement evenly around the inside of the
fitting socket. Avoid puddling.
• Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe end.
• Cans of cement and primer should be closed at all
times when not in use to prevent evaporation of
chemicals and hardening of cement.
• They are also very flammable and should be kept
away from heat or flame.
STEP E
F, Joint assembly
Working quickly, insert the pipe into the fitting socket bottom and
give the pipe or fitting a 1/4 turn to evenly distribute the cement. Do
not continue to rotate the pipe after it has hit the bottom of the fitting
socket. A good joint will have sufficient
cement to make a bead all
the way around the outside of the fitting hub. The fitting will have a
tendency to slide back while the cement is still wet so hold the joint
together for about 15 seconds.
G,
STEP F
Cleanup
and joint movement
Remove all excess cement from around the pipe and fitting with a
dry cotton rag. This must be done while the cement is still soft.
The joint should not be disturbed immediately
after the cementing
procedure, and sufficient time should be allowed for proper curing of
the joint. Exact drying time is difficult to predict because it depends
on variables such as temperature, humidity and cement integrity. For
more specific information,
you should contact your solvent cement
manufacturer.
STEP G
22

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Economizer 6153.332040153.332050

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