RS 21 Rigging Manual
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RS 21 Rigging Manual

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Rigging Manual V16
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER

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Summary of Contents for RS 21

  • Page 1 Rigging Manual V16 PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    4.18 - Spinnaker bag ................. 44 4.19 - Rudder .................... 45 4.20 - Preparing the mainsail ..............46 4.21 - Battens .................... 46 4.22 - Sail care ..................47 4.23 - Adding the Epropulsion ..............48 5 - Using the boat ..................

  • Page 3: Introduction

    RS product. We are confident that you will have many hours of great sailing and racing in this truly excellent design. The RS 21 is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum enjoyment from your RS 21, in a safe manner.

  • Page 4: Specification

    2 - Specification Designer Richards / Whitehouse / RS Sailing Length 6.34m Beam 2.2m Draught 1.38m Displacement 650kg Hull construction Eco-friendly composite Keel Lifting - with bulb Rudder Removeable - composite Mainsail area - Race 16.2m Jib are - Race 8.4m...

  • Page 5: Components - Customer Pack

    3.1 - Components - Customer Pack Part Usage Quantity 30mm Block, Single, Swivel Backstay/Kicker 40mm Block, Single Launch line/Kicker/Mainsheet 30mm Block, Single, Strap Jib Cunningham 30mm Block, Sing./beck. Swiv. Cunningham 40mm Block, Fiddle, Cam Cunningham 40mm Block, Fiddle Kicker 40mm Block, Single/becket Kicker 45mm Block, Wire Kicker...

  • Page 6: Rope Pack

    3.2 - Components - Rope Pack...

  • Page 7: Initial Commissioning

    Rigging Manual 4. Initial Commissioning PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 8: Stanchions And Guard Rails

    4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails Locate the following items: 6 x Stanchions 4 x Guard rail pad 6 x Guard rail ropes 6 x Stanchion Pins Insert the 6 stanchions and insert pins and secure in place with the shockcord loop. Note: The guard rail ties differ for the regular and race versions.
  • Page 9 4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails Attach the 4 long adjustable guard rail ropes onto the D-ring at each end of the guard rail pads, leaving a D-ring free at the end of each pad. Standard spec. Race spec. Knot #6 Knot #1 Pass the other ends of the long guard rail ropes through the hole in the top of the stanchions (in a forward direction for the front stanchions and an aft direction for the aft...
  • Page 10 4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails Race spec. Remove one screw from the deck eye. Rotate the deck eye to allow you to slip the loop over it. Rotate the deck eye back into place and replace the screw. Pull to adjust...

  • Page 11: Adding The Spinnaker Pole

    4.2 - Adding the Spinnaker Pole The spinnaker pole may already be attached to your boat. If it is already attached you can move straight on to section 4.3. Locate the spinnaker tack line, launch line and 40mm block in the packs. Tack line Launch line 40mm block...
  • Page 12 4.2 - Adding the Spinnaker Pole Pass the aft end of the pole in through the opening at the bow of the boat (You will need to feed the tack line in first). Continue to push the pole into the boat, making sure it passes underneath the webbing strap (feeding the tack line through first).

  • Page 13: Asymmetric Spinnaker Tack Line

    4.3 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Tack Line Knot #2 Knot #3...

  • Page 14: Asymmetric Spinnaker Launch Line

    4.4 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Launch Line Add the launch line as shown. Knot #3 Knot #2...

  • Page 15: Adding The Hoop

    4.5 - Adding the Hoop Your boat may arrive with or without the hoop attached. If the hoop is already attached move straight on to section 4.6. There are 3 screws on each side of the centre console which hold the hoop in place.

  • Page 16: Dressing The Mast - Lowers

    4.6.1 - Dressing the Mast - Lowers Remove the bottle screw from the lowers. Thread the wires through the hole in the spreader bracket. Replace the bottle screw. Tighten until the wire just appears on the inside of the bottle screw. Add the lower part of the bottle screw (fork toggle).

  • Page 17: Dressing The Mast - Spreaders

    4.6.2 - Dressing the Mast - Spreaders To complete this section you will need: • Spreaders x 2 • Shrouds x 2 • Forestay • Backstay • Backstay flicker and 3 x machine screws • Main halyard • Jib halyard •...

  • Page 18: Dressing The Mast - Forestay

    4.6.2 - Dressing the Mast - Spreaders Remove the screw and the front face of the spreader tip. Thread the shroud wire into the gap and replace the front face of the spreader tip and the screw. Repeat for the other shroud and spreader. 4.6.3 - Dressing the Mast - Forestay Attach the forestay to the mast with the T-terminal.

  • Page 19: Dressing The Mast - Backstay

    4.6.4 - Dressing the Mast - Backstay Fit backstay flicker. Add the block and line to the end of the backstay flicker. Tie ythe block as clse to the flicker as possible. Attach the backstay through the flicker block and terminate it on the pin at the mast head fitting.

  • Page 20: Dressing The Mast - Halyards

    4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards Note: There are mouse lines for the halyards already running through the mast. Locate the following items: Main halyard Plastic bobble The main halyard is composed of two lines, a thicker red rope with a loop and a thinner line attached to it.
  • Page 21 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards Add the bobble to the Once the mouse line other end of the main halyard has been pulled fully (the end emerging from the through the mast top of the mast.) and the halyard line emerges from the hole in the mast, stop pulling the line.
  • Page 22 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards Pull the mouse line through until the jib halyard emerges from the mast. Untie the knot #4. Secure both ends of the halyard near the mast foot to mouse line and tie prevent them from being lost inside the mast. Add a plastic bobble to the other end of the jib halyard (the end emerging from top of the mast).
  • Page 23 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards Locate the following items in the rigging pack. Plastic bobble Spinnaker halyard Fitting the spinnaker halyard is a similar process to the main and jib halyards, except the spinnaker halyard is only composed of a single piece of rope. mouse line Knot #7 The mouse line for the spinnaker halyard emerges...
  • Page 24 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards Pass the end of the spinnaker halyard around the sheave and through the cleat as shown, and tie knot #3 in the tail. Remember to secure the other end of the spinnaker halyard near the base of the mast. If you are using the club spinnaker or symmetric spinnaker, lead the other end of the halyard back down from the head of the...

  • Page 25: Stepping The Mast

    4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES REMEMBER Check that both ends of the main halyard, jib halyard, and gennaker halyard are tied off at the bottom end of the mast so that they are within easy reach when the mast is stepped.
  • Page 26 4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast Using some spare line, tie the spinnaker halyard onto the bow stem fitting. This will act as a temporary forestay. With the tallest person at the back, lift the mast up and move it backwards. The back of the mast should be lifted above the mainsheet hoop.
  • Page 27 4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast Lowers Loosely attach the lowers. Towards bow Walk the mast upright. Pull the spinnaker halyard tight at the cleat to act as a temporary forestay.
  • Page 28 4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast Attach the forestay. You can now remove the spinnaker halyard from the mast stem fitting and attach it near the base of the mast. Lowers Shrouds Attach the shrouds. Take up the tension but don’t make them tight yet. It is very important that you don’t tighten the shrouds yet.

  • Page 29: Stepping The Mast With The Keel Up

    4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast With the Keel Up To step the mast with the keel up: • Lay the mast in the boat slightly off to one side with the heel at the mast step. • Attach both of the lowers and the one shroud on the same side of the boat as the mast. •...

  • Page 30: Rough Rig Setting

    4.8 - Rough Rig Setting To complete this section you will need a long tape measure and an adjustable spanner. Use the jib halyard to make sure the mast is vertical. Take it from gunwhale to gunwhale and adjust shrouds as required. Sight up the track to see how straight the mast is.
  • Page 31 4.8 - Rough Rig Setting c) Add backstay. Knot #1...
  • Page 32 4.8 - Rough Rig Setting Attach one end of your tape measure to the main halyard and hoist it to the top of the mast, keeping the other end in your hand. Cleat the main halyard and pull tight on tape measure. Measure the distance from the top of the mast to the top back edge of the transom (above the rudder gudgeon).
  • Page 33 4.8 - Rough Rig Setting Using a rig tension gauge, wind down the cap shrouds and lowers in equilibrium until they reach the numbers shown on this table. Wind Speed Cap Shroud Lowers Tension Tension Jib Car Tack Height Vang/Kicker (Knots) (full turn)* (full turn)*...

  • Page 34: Adding The Boom

    4.9 - Adding the Boom Add the boom using the clevis pin and split pin. Note that a there is a flat section on the head of the clevis pin which means it can only fit one way round and cannot rotate once fitted.

  • Page 35: Vang

    4.10 - Vang Locate the following items in the rigging pack: 30mm block Shackle Vang Single block 45mm block Vang control 40mm block Double block with becket purchase Locate the black vang purchase line and attach it to one of the shackle from one of the knot #6, 40mm blocks using leaving one end 140mm longer than the other.
  • Page 36 4.10 - Vang Pass the shorter end of the black rope through the Shackle the black rope, double block which you added in step d and shackle it onto block and 30mm block onto the the double block. mast as shown. Locate the pink vang rope in the pack.

  • Page 37: Mainsheet

    4.11 - Mainsheet Locate the mainsheet in the rope pack. Thread the mainsheet through the 40mm blocks on the boom Pass the tails through the ratchet blocks as shown. and hoop as shown. Pass one end of the mainsheet through the centre console. You can open the hatch in the side to help you pass the rope through.

  • Page 38: Main Halyard Tension System

    4.12 - Main Halyard Tension System Feed the main halyard throught the 2 cleats and through the cheek block so the halyard runs back into the boat. .

  • Page 39: Cunningham

    4.13 - Cunningham Locate the following items in the customer packs. 30mm block 40mm block with Cunningham Cunningham tail with becket fiddle/swivel/fixed (top) cam (bottom) Shackle the bottom block onto the middle metal eye on the port side of the mast step. Tie one end of the cunningham control line to the block with becket with knot #2...
  • Page 40 4.13 - Cunningham Loop the cunningham tail onto the top block (30mm block with becket) using the shckle. To use the downhaul, pass the downhaul tail through the cringle on the tack of the sail and tie it off on the hole in the gooseneck fitting.

  • Page 41: Jib Halyard Tension System

    4.14 - Jib Halyard Tension System Feed the jib halyard throught the 2 cleats and through the cheek block so the halyard runs back into the boat. .

  • Page 42: Jib Tack Line

    4.16 - Jib Tack Line Knot #3 Slots into keyhole on bow fitting. Then insert the bung on a string to secure in place. Knot #4 Knot #2...

  • Page 43: Jib Sheet

    4.17 - Jib Sheet Locate the 2 x 40mm jib clew blocks in the hardware pack. Dismantle the jib clew blocks as shown. Reassemble the jib clew blocks through the ring in the clew of the jib.
  • Page 44 4.17 - Jib Sheet Knot #3 Knot #3...

  • Page 45: Asymmetric Spinnaker Sheet

    4.18 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Sheet At the mid point of the spinnaker sheet use knot #3 either side of the cringle to hold the clew in place.

  • Page 46: Spinnaker Bag

    4.19 - Spinnaker Bag...

  • Page 47: Rudder

    4.20 - Rudder Lift the rudder into place between the two gudgeons and insert the rudder pin to secure it. You may find you need to grease the pin to get it through. Insert the tiller into the rudder and add the tiller pin. The tiller will prevent the rudder pin from coming out.

  • Page 48: Preparing The Mainsail

    4.21 - Preparing the Mainsail Unroll your new sail. There are faint lines on the sail to show you where to stick the sail numbers. 60mm 60mm 300mm NUMBERS MUST BE PLACED HIGHER ON THE STARBOARD SIDE. 60mm 300mm Minimum 6 4.22 - Battens...

  • Page 49: Sail Care

    4.23 - Sail Care Wash salt off sails after use and dry. Roll from the Roll from 2nd Batten. head. It is easier to fold the head in (as shown) so the top of the battens coincide before starting rolling. Store sail in its bag in dry conditions away from sunlight.

  • Page 50: Adding The Epropulsion

    4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor Locate the following items: Communication Cables Throttle Kill switch Motor Communication Battery Screen Module a) Kill switch installation Three holes need to be drilled in the console, ensuring the location pin is in the centre of the 20mm sensor.
  • Page 51 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor Throttle installation Make sure the proposed location reserves enough room for operating and will allow rotating the throttle without hitting obstructions. This will be approximately 85mm above the deck. Drill holes in the console through the fixing guide referring to the dimensions in the drawing.
  • Page 52 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor d) Screen installation Fix the display panel in the top of the console. Drill hole in the recess following the fixing guide. 99.2 82.7 117.5 130.6 Attach the communication cable from the back of the throttle to the display.
  • Page 53 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor Lay the motor on the floor beneath the boat. Pass a rope down through the hole in the console from above the deck. Use this rope to pull the motor cable up through the hole. Once you have hold of the motor cable above deck you can use this to pull the motor shaft up into the hole.
  • Page 54 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor Add the handle to the Add sheave top of the motor shaft. Add pin Bolt the two sides of the handle together, making sure that the pin and sheave locate properly in place. k) Remove the forward mainsheet block and jammer base to reveal a hole.
  • Page 55 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor Remove the hatch in the front of the console. This will reveal a deck gland with a mousing line emerging from it labelled ‘battery’. Remove the 3 screws from the deck gland and pass the larger power cable through the gland assembly (see image to the right).
  • Page 56 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor Fitting the Communications Module Fit the communications module through the front hatch on the console. Attach it to the wooden bulkhead in the console using the M4 screws provided. Attach the the cables from the motor and the throttle to the 2 connectors on the side of the module.
  • Page 57 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor Install the battery base using 14 x 2”pozi pan screws. Make sure the base is located so the battery can locate without hitting the bulkheads. Installing the battery, lower the battery and the slide forward and down until you hear an audible ”CLICK”.

  • Page 58: Rigging Manual

    Rigging Manual 5. Using the Boat PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 59: Lowering The Keel

    5.1 - Lowering the Keel Put the keel hoist into it’s pot. Before you lower the keel for the first time use electrical tape to mark a position on the keel hoist that is level with the top of the keel. This is a reference point to tell you when winding the keel back up you have reached the top.

  • Page 60: Raising The Keel

    5.2 - Raising the Keel Put the keel hoist into it’s pot (inside the Undo the velcro strap which is holding hatch just to the port side of the keel). the keel down. Shackle the rope from the keel hoist onto the keel.

  • Page 61: Hoisting The Mainsail

    5.3 - Hoisting the Mainsail Put the top of the main sail into the opening in the mast track, just above the gooseneck. Shackle the main halyard to the head of the mainsail. Hoist the mainsail by pulling on the line which comes out of the port side of the mast.
  • Page 62 5.3 - Hoisting the Mainsail Pull on the main halyard until the sail reaches the top of the mast, make sure the halyard is locked into both cleats on the side of the mast. There is a pouch on the front edge of the spinnaker bag which can be used to stow the tails of all halyards.

  • Page 63: Outhaul

    5.4 - Outhaul Attach the tack strap around the mast before adjusting the outhaul NOTE: Do not attach the main sail to the shackle on the goosneck. Attach the outhaul to the clew of the sail. Add the clew strap. The outhaul line runs through the inside of the boom and is already attached.

  • Page 64: Hoisting The Jib

    5.5 - Hoisting the Jib Hank the luff of the jib onto the forestay. Attach the jib halyard to the head of the jib. Hoist the jib by pulling on the line which comes out of the starboard side of the mast, just below the level of the gooseneck.

  • Page 65: Motor

    5.6 - Motor Knot #1 Uncleat to lower motor or pull in to raise motor. Knot #3 This gudgeon will lock the motor down. To release push the blue button.
  • Page 66 5.6 - Motor Connect the battery. Uncleat the engine lifting line and lower the engine. Only lower the engine when you are moving at less that 3 knots. You may need to push downwards on the Epropulsion handle to get the engine to drop.
  • Page 67 5.6 - Motor Make sure the throttle is set to neutral. Turn on the power. Add kill cord to the throttle. If you remove the kill cord whilst the engine is running, make sure the throttle is set to neutral before you re-attach the kill cord. To lift the motor: •...

  • Page 68: Weed Cutter

    5.7 - Weed Cutter As an optional extra, a built in weed cutter is available which runs through the front of the keel, with a blade that is hidden inside the keel bulb . If you have weed stuck on your keel, pull the rod which emerges from the top of the keel and the blade will run up and down the keel until the weed is removed.

  • Page 69: Storing Sail Bags

    5.8 - Storing Sail Bags Inside the forward hatch there is a loop of rope with a hook on it, which runs around a block on the aft bulkhead. To stow your sail bags, hook them onto this rope and pull on the other end of the rope.

  • Page 70: Lifting The Boat

    5.10 - Lifting the boat There is a lifting eye just aft of the keel which can be used for a single point lift if the keel is attached to the boat. Do not use the padeyes to lift the boat If the boat is to be lifted without the keel attached: •...

  • Page 71: Removing / Adding The Keel

    5.11 - Removing / Adding the Keel To remove the keel with the boat on a crane, first drop the boat down so that the chocks at the top of the keel are accessible. Remove the two chocks from the keel using a 2 x 13mm spanners.

  • Page 72: Bilge Pump

    5.12 - Bilge Pump The bilge pump is located on the starboard cockpit side (just forward of the console). The water exits from a hole behind the rope bag. 5.13 - Mooring the boat When mooring the boat, tie the bow line to the jib tack plate. 5.14 - Antifouling There are faint marks along the waterline approximately every metre.

  • Page 73: Fitting Symmetric Spinnaker

    5.15 - Fitting Symmetric Spinnaker - Components Part Quantity 30mm block with swivel 38mm Cleat 38mm Line guard 38mm Fairlead 40mm block with swivel 40mm block with strap Spinnaker Pole Uphaul - 11m Spinnaker Pole Downhaul - 4.2m Twinning Line - 2.4m Spinnaker Sheets - 16m Spinnaker pole storage kit Spinnaker pole...
  • Page 74 Symmetric Spinnaker Pole Boom Storage Fit the aft part first by loosening the fixing screw/plates.Slide the top fixing into the slot ontop of the inboard end of the boom. Slide the part down the boom until the lower fixing it against the mainsheet fitting. Now rotate the fixing plate on the under side and slot it into the recess in the boom.
  • Page 75 Fitting the Spinnaker Halyard BEFORE LOWERING THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES REMEMBER Check that both ends of the main halyard, jib halyard, and gennaker halyard are tied off at the bottom end of the mast so that they are within easy reach when the mast is lowered.
  • Page 76 Fitting the Spinnaker Halyard Shrouds Detach the shrouds. Towards bow Lowers Supporting the mast. Detach the lowers. Towards bow...
  • Page 77 Fitting the Spinnaker Halyard Lower the mast carefully Using the spinnaker halyard at the cleat to control the decent of the mast.. When using the symmetric spinnaker, lead the end of the halyard down from the head of the mast and pass it through the metal casting on the front face of the mast (approximately 75mm from the mast head).
  • Page 78 Symmetric Spinnaker Uphaul Knot #2...
  • Page 79 Symmetric Spinnaker Downhaul...
  • Page 80 Symmetric Spinnaker Sheets Knot #1 Knot #3 Knot #1 Knot #3...

  • Page 81: Fitting The Furling Jib System

    Fitting the Furling Jib System What’s included in the kit Sail Forestay to Swivel Top Swivel Halyard Swivel Furling Line Tack Fitting Forestay Furling Drum...
  • Page 82 Furling Jib Before stepping the mast, attached the furling forestay t-terminal to the mast. Thread the jib halyard though the fairlead that is just below the sheave. Stand the mast up and attach the drum to the tack plate. Ensure the split pin is opened up to prevent the pin from moving.
  • Page 83 Furling Jib Thread the furling line through the triple fairlead on the foredeck and then through the existing jib cunningham eye and cleat on the starboard side.
  • Page 84 Furling Jib Hoisting the Jib Tie the jib halyard to the top of the halyard swivel. Attached the head of the jib to the bottom of the halyard swivel. Attach the tack to the tack fitting on top of the furler drum. Hoist the jib. Furling the Jib To furl the jib, pull the furling line and secure the line in the cleat.

  • Page 85: Knots

    6 - Knots Knot #1 Knot #2 Knot #3 Knot #4 Knot #5 Knot #6 Knot #1 - Knot on knot Knot #2 - Bowline...
  • Page 86 6 - Knots Knot #3 - Figure of eight Knot #4 - Overhand knot Knot #5 - Double sheet bend Knot #6 - Cow hitch...

  • Page 87: Glossary

    7 - Glossary At the back Anchor Line Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat Astern Behind the boat Asymmetric Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow Back To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of the sail Bailer A bucket or other container used for bailing water Batten...
  • Page 88 7 - Glossary Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction Capsize...
  • Page 89 7 - Glossary Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing Foils The daggerboard and the rudder Foot The bottom edge of a sail Fore...
  • Page 90 7 - Glossary ‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from, causing the sails to flap ‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib Heel A boat ‘heels’...
  • Page 91 7 - Glossary Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west. They help you measure position and distance on a chart. Leech The back edge of the sail Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the wind is blowing Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind...
  • Page 92 The rope at the bow used to tie the boat to a fixed object Pontoon A floating jetty to moor your boat to Port The left-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards RS Dealer A third-party who sells the RS range Reach Sailing with the wind on the side of the boat...
  • Page 93 7 - Glossary Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to trail behind a vehicle Rowlocks U shaped fittings that fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in...
  • Page 94 7 - Glossary Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents Starboard.
  • Page 95 7 - Glossary ‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be in motion Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing...

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