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RS Venture Connect Rigging Manual

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Rigging Guide V3

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Summary of Contents for RS Venture Connect

  • Page 1 Rigging Guide V3...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    Contents Safety Instuctions 10.RS Connect SCS Introduction 10.1 SCS pack contents 1. RS Connect 11. Removing old fittings 2 - Preparation 2.1 - Preparation 12. Control lines 2.2 - Adding the Mainsheet Bridle 12.1 - Adding control line cleats to the foredeck 12.2 - Adding control line takeaways...
  • Page 3 Contents 17. RS Connect SCS 24 - Completion Power Assist 25 - Sailing hints 18. SCS PA Installation 25.1 - Introduction 18.1 - Cutting the rear hatch 18.2 - Assembling the foam tray 26. Maintainance 18.3 - Control arms 26.2 - Foil care 26.3 - Spar care...

  • Page 4: Safety Instuctions

    SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS: RIG SELECTION RS Venture Connect: RACE RS Venture Connect SCS: RACE RS Venture Connect SCS Race: - With full rescue support at a World Sailing Event RACE...
  • Page 5 A combined mobile crew weight of 150KG will be required to right the boat from a fully inverted position if a rescue boat is not available. The RS Venture Connect SCS and Power Assist Package can be used in many scenarios and the Rigging Guide only gives generic advice for its operation. Owners and operators should take onboard the spirit of this advice and apply it to their unique environment.
  • Page 6 Relace the Velcro securing strap every 12 months. When using the RS Venture Connect SCS ensure that the correct risk assesments are carried out before going sailing. This will need to be done for secific clubs. If you are...

  • Page 7: Introduction

    RS product. We are confident that you will have many hours of great sailing and racing in this truly excellent design. The RS Venture Connect is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum enjoyment from your RS Venture Connect, in a safe manner.
  • Page 8 Rigging Guide PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 9: Rs Connect 1.1

    RS Connect 1.1 COMPONENTS LIST QUANTITY ROPE PACK Mainsheet Jib Sheet HARDWARE Owner’s manual Rudder Tiller extension Com bar Boom Mainsail Keel Hoist Mast and rigging SPINNAKER KIT Spinnaker sheets Ratchet blocks Spinnaker...

  • Page 10: Preparation

    2.0 - Preparation 2. Preparation Your RS Venture Connect comes complete with all the components necessary to take the boat sailing. In order to commission it, you will need the following tools: • Pliers or a shackle key • Small, flat-bladed screw driver •...

  • Page 11: Adding The Mainsheet Bridle

    2.1 - Adding the Mainsheet Bridle Locate the 40mm single block, mainsheet bridle and 2 x mainsheet bridle elastics. Take the middle of the mainsheet bridle and form a loop. Pass this loop through the 40mm block and pass the tails back through the loop to form knot Pass the end of the bridle through the forward hole in...

  • Page 12: Rigging The Mast

    Rigging Guide 3. Rigging the Mast To complete this section you will need: • The mast • A flat-bladed screw driver PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 13: Fitting The Spreaders To The Mast

    3.1 - Fitting The Spreaders To The mast It is worth taking time to ensure that this section is completed correctly. Improperly fitted spreaders will result in undesirable sailing characteristics, and may even result in failure of the mast. Carefully unpack the spreaders from the top of the mast, being sure not to damage any of the securing split rings.

  • Page 14: Spreader Ends

    The spreader end cap incorporates two shroud wire slots to give a tight grip on either 2.5 or 3mm wire. The sizes are identified on the front face of the end cap.The RS Venture Connect uses 3mm shroud wire so the 3mm slot should be used.

  • Page 15: Stepping The Mast

    3.3 - Stepping the Mast Now the mast is ready to be put up in the boat, or “stepped”. BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES REMEMBER Check that both ends of the main halyard, jib halyard, and gennaker halyard are tied off at the bottom end of the mast so that they are within easy reach when the mast is stepped.
  • Page 16 3.3 - Stepping the Mast Raise the mast so that it is standing on the ground next to the boat, adjacent to the mast gate. This is most easily done if your helper places a foot against and over the base of the mast, whilst you lift the mast from about mid section until it is upright.
  • Page 17 3.3 - Stepping the Mast Attach the shrouds to the middle of the shroud adjustor plate with the clevis pin and split ring provided. Wrap PVC electrician’s tape around the split rings for security, and to avoid snagging. The between hole 7 - 9 is a good place to start.

  • Page 18: Boom

    Rigging Guide 4. Boom To complete this section, you will need: • The boom • The gnav bar • The Mainsheet PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 19: Rigging The Gnav

    4.1 - Rigging the Gnav Connect the gnav bar to the slider at the front end of the boom. Sliders often differ in appearance, but all work in the same way. Connect the front of the boom to the gooseneck on the mast. Connect the upper end of the gnav bar to the bracket on the mast above the gooseneck.

  • Page 20: Rigging The Mainsheet

    4.1 - Rigging the Gnav Feed the gnav control line down through the gooseneck block. Make sure purchase is extended fully when sail is up. Feed the gnav control line through the cleat below the boom. Tie a knot #3 in the end of the rope.
  • Page 21 4.2 - Rigging the Mainsheet Pass the end of the mainsheet back up and through the block on the end of the boom. Pass the end of the mainsheet forwards through the two webbing loops on the underside of the boom. Pass the end of the mainsheet through the block on the underside of the boom.
  • Page 22 4.2 - Rigging the Mainsheet Pass the end of the mainsheet through the mainsheet block and jammer base, then knot #3 in the end.
  • Page 23 Rigging Guide 5. Sails PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 24: Hoisting The Jib

    5.1 - Hoisting the Jib To complete this section, you will require: • The jib • The jib sheets • The top furling unit as attached to the jib halliard Make sure the furling line is uncleated and that the furling unit is fully charged – i.e. all the furling line is wound round the unit and very little left at the cleat.
  • Page 25 5.1 - Hoisting the Jib Pull the rope end of the halyard from the mast exit, just below deck level to hoist the jib. When the jib halyard is pulled all the way up, a wire loop will emerge from the mast.

  • Page 26: Furling The Jib

    5.1 - Hoisting the Jib Lead one end of the jib sheet along the side of the boat and then down to the jib fairlead and cleat. Thread it through the fairlead and through the jib cleat. Repeat with the other end of the jib sheet, making sure they pass either side of the mast.
  • Page 27 5.3 - Furling the Jib NB. Once the jib is hoisted, whether furled or not, and the jib halliard tensioned, the forestay is redundant and should be stowed out of the way against the mast, with the shockcord and clip provided. The forestay must be reattached before the jib is lowered.

  • Page 28: Hoisting The Mainsail

    5.4 - Hoisting the Mainsail To hoist the mainsail: a) Unroll the mainsail. b) Take the end of the main halyard that emerges from the top of the mast, and tie it to the head of the mainsail, using knot Put the top of the main sail into the opening in the mast track, just above the gooseneck mast collar.

  • Page 29: Rigging The Outhaul

    5.5 - Rigging the Outhaul When the main sail is almost at the top of the mast, slide the mainsail clew slug into the track on the top of the boom. Pass the end of the outhaul rope through the clew of the main sail and clip it on the end of the boom Ensure that the main halyard rope is in the cleat and pull the main sail to the top.

  • Page 30: Rigging The Downhaul

    5.6 - Rigging the Downhaul The downhaul is already tied to the gooseneck. Pass the end of the downhaul through the eyelet in the tack of the main sail. Pass the end of the downhaul through the cleat on the side of the mast.

  • Page 31: Gennaker

    Rigging Guide 6. Gennaker To complete this section, you will need: • 1 x RS Venture gennaker • 1 x gennaker sheet • 2 x ratchet blocks PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 32: Rigging The Gennaker Halyard

    6.1 - Rigging the Gennaker Halyard a) Pull the bowsprit out to enable the bowsprit outhaul block to be recovered from under the foredeck towards the mast. b) Take the loose end of the gennaker halyard from the sheave on the front of the mast, where it exits at the base.

  • Page 33: Rigging The Gennaker

    HINT Always remember to tie a piece of rope to the bowsprit outhaul block when fully de-rigging your RS Venture – it saves crawling up under the foredeck! Unpack the gennaker. Tie the tack of the gennaker to the tack line that emerges from the end of the bowsprit.

  • Page 34: Rigging The Gennaker Sheet

    6.3 - Rigging the Gennaker Sheet a) Find the middle of the gennaker sheet and double it over to form a loop. Attach it to the spinnaker clew using knot b) With the gennaker on the starboard side, thread one end of the gennaker sheet through the block by the starboard shroud adjustor plate, in the direction of the arrow on the block .
  • Page 35 6.3 - Rigging the Gennaker Sheet Pull the gennaker from one side to the other, as if you were gybing, to see if anything is twisted, and then using the gennaker downhaul, pull the gennaker down into the chute and sock. Care should be taken when dropping a new gennaker on dry land.

  • Page 36: Keel

    Rigging Guide 7 - Keel PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 37: Lowering The Keel

    7.1 - Lowering the Keel Before you lower the keel for the first time use electrical tape to mark a position on the crane that is level with the top of the black keel plate. This is a reference point to tell you when winding the keel back up you have reached the top.
  • Page 38 7.1 - Lowering the Keel Add the veclro strap through the lifting eye of the keel. It is very important to make sure the keel is locked down. Make sure the strap is tight. Take up any slack in the keel hoist then remove the keel hoist.

  • Page 39: Rudders

    Rigging Guide 8. Rudders To complete this section, you will require: • Rudder x 2 • Com bar • Tiller extension PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 40: Fitting The Rudders

    8.1 - Fitting the Rudders In the rudder pack you will find two rudders, tillers, com bar, tiller extension and four small flathead screws. If required, insert the tiller into the stock. Line up the holes, making sure that the tiller extension joint is on the top of the tiller, Then attach using the screws provided.
  • Page 41 8.1 - Fitting the Rudders Add the tiller extension To put the rudder down - 1. Lift the tiller slightly to unlock the blade. 2. Push the tiller aft until the blade is fully lowered (it will normally ‘clunk’ into the front of the rudder stock).

  • Page 42: Reefing

    Rigging Guide 9. Reefing PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 43: Rigging The Reefing Line

    Reefing enables the less-experienced or younger sailor to continue sailing in stronger winds. Your RS Venture is fitted with a single-line reefing system. The reefing line is red and is installed in the boom ready to rig through the sail. You will see it either end of the boom, next to the outhaul line, which is usually black.

  • Page 44: Reefing The Mainsail

    9.2 - Reefing the Mainsail With the mainsheet uncleated, fully ease the kicker and drop the main halyard so the reefing cringle is 10cm above the gooseneck. Make sure the reefing clew slug is inserted into track on the mast. Steadily pull on the reefing line from the front end of the boom.
  • Page 45 Seated Control System V5 For fitting the SCS kit to an existing RS Venture Connect PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER If the SCS kit has already been added, see the notes at the start of each section.
  • Page 46 10.1 - SCS Pack Contents dacron patches 30mm block for spinnaker takeup rings elastic for strop manual Size 9 mainsail storm jib storm spinnaker...

  • Page 47: Scs Pack Contents

    10.1- SCS Pack Contents control line cleats control line elastic control line block control line block with rope and bobble gnav control line block gnav control line rope downhaul control line block downhaul control line rope toe rail set seat rail set toe rails seats seat cleats...
  • Page 48 10.1 - SCS Pack Contents jib barrels jib 30mm block with spring 30mm jib sail block jib strop for blocks jib sheet steering gear Q-clip steering line kit steering line organiser (aft cockpit) steering line organiser (aft gunwhale) steering line organiser (front cockpit)

  • Page 49: Removing Old Fittings

    This manual assumes that you are starting with a fully rigged RS Venture Connect. There are some fittings on the RS Venture Connect that are obsolete once the SCS kit is added. You can remove them at this point. If your boat has the SCS kit already fitted you should skip this section.

  • Page 50: Control Lines

    Seated Control System 12. Control Lines If your boat has the SCS kit already fitted you should skip this section. PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 51: Adding Control Line Cleats To The Foredeck

    12.1 - Adding Control Line Cleats to the Foredeck There are 3 machine screws already on each side of the foredeck to attach the control line cleats. Remove the nuts from beneath the foredeck (taking note of which bolt the p clip is attached to) then remove the machine screws.

  • Page 52: Adding Control Line Takeaways

    12.2 - Adding Control Line Takeaways In the SCS kit you will find the elastic control line takeaway and two 20mm blocks. Tie one of the blocks onto one end of the elastic with knot There is a metal ring attached to an eyelet on the underside of the forestay U-bolt fitting.

  • Page 53: Adding The Gnav Control Line

    12.3 - Adding the Gnav Control Line Locate the following components in the SCS kit: Gnav control line Gnav control Qloc tie Qloc line block Tie these two ends of the gnav control line to the eyelet on the floor of the cockpit, just to port of the mast step.
  • Page 54 12.3 - Adding the Gnav Control Line Pass the loose end through the block. Pass the end forwards through the hole in the aft edge of the foredeck, to the port side of the mast gate. Pass the line forwards under the foredeck and through the port block on the control line takeaway you added in step 4.
  • Page 55 12.3 - Adding the Gnav Control Line Locate the upper block on the gnav control line behind the cleat (to the port side of the mast). Take the Qloc tie and attach both ends of it to this block using 2 x knot Attach the Qloc to the loop as shown.
  • Page 56 12.3 - Adding the Gnav Control Line Take the tail of the main gnav control line (which you unthreaded from the cleat on the mast in step 2a) and tie knot #3 in the end. knot #3 Don’t tie it too tightly for now as you will need to adjust the knot position in a later step.

  • Page 57: Adding The Downhaul Control Line

    12.4 - Adding the Downhaul Control Line Locate the following components in the SCS kit: Downhaul Qloc tie Qloc Downhaul Downhaul control line control line block Tie these two ends of the downhaul control line to the eyelet on the floor of the cockpit, just to starboard of the mast step.
  • Page 58 12.4 - Adding the Downhaul Control Line Pass the loose end through the block. Pass the end forwards through the hole in the aft edge of the foredeck, to the starboard side of the mast gate. Pass the line forwards under the foredeck and through the starboard block on the control line takeaway you added in step 4.
  • Page 59 12.4 - Adding the Downhaul Control Line knot #3 in one end of the downhaul. Pass the other end through the cleat on the port side of the mast and tie knot #3 in the tail. Locate the top block on the downhaul control line Take the Qloc tie and attach both ends of it to this block using 2 x knot...
  • Page 60 12.4 - Adding the Downhaul Control Line Attach the Qloc to the loop as shown. Pass the end of the downhaul through the cringle in the tack of the sail. Hook the Qloc onto the figure of eight knot in the end of the downhaul.

  • Page 61: Seats

    Seated Control System 13. Seats If the SCS kit has already been added, go straight to section 13.1f and section 13.3. PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 62: Adding The Toe Rail Inserts

    13.1 - Adding the Toe Rail Inserts Remove the two eyelets and D-rings holding the velcro keel strap. Keep the screws. Locate the toe rail inserts in the SCS kit. 3 screw holes 2 small screw holes for eyelet 6 screw holes 5 screw holes Remove these twelve screws.

  • Page 63: Adding The Seat Inserts

    13.1 - Adding the Toe Rail Inserts Screw the eyelets holding the velcro keel strap back into place using the same screws you removed in step a. Screws go into the small screw holes on the toerail insert. Re-attach the velcro strap through the lifting eye of the keel.
  • Page 64 13.2 - Adding the Seat Inserts Using the screws you removed in step b, screw the toerail inserts into the boat. Add sealant into holes first. Make sure thery are orientated correctly - the hooked parts must be at the top and must face forward.

  • Page 65: Adding The Seats

    13.3 - Adding the Seats Slot the rails at the base of the seats into the brackets on the sides of the cockpit. The seat position can be adjusted by selecting which gaps you slide the rails into. Once you are happy with the seat position, you must add the seat retainers. 13.4 - Adding the Seat Retainers Locate the 2x seat retainer lines and 2x 20mm blocks with hooks.
  • Page 66 13.4 - Adding the Seat Retainers Tie one end of the seat retainer line to the P-clip (without the block on it) on the underside of the seat with knot Pass the other end of the seat retainer line through the block with hook attached. Pass the end through the block on the underside of the seat.

  • Page 67: Adding The Toerails

    13.4 - Adding the Seat Retainers Hook the block (which you attached in step d) onto the rope loop on the deck organiser (as shown in step b) and pull tight. 4.5 - Adding the Toerails Add the toerails by slotting them into the forward brackets on the sides of the cockpit.

  • Page 68: Centre Console

    Seated Control System 14. Centre console If the SCS kit has already been fitted, you must still complete steps 14.1, 14.2, 14.3, 14.4, 14.5, 14.7 PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 69: Adding The Centre Console

    14.1 - Adding the Centre Console Once the keel is strapped down, you can add the centre console into the hole left by the keel hoist. Use the pin through the two bullseyes and the centre console base tube to lock the centre console in place.
  • Page 70 14.3 - Adding the Gennaker Halyard Firing Line Locate the gennaker halyard firing line, handle and rope loop with a block on it in the SCS kit. Open the mast gate and slide the rope loop (with block attached) over the mast gate.
  • Page 71 5.3 - Adding the Gennaker Halyard Firing Line Pass the end of the line through the block on the mast gate (that you added in step b). in the end of the line, then slot this Tie a small knot #4 into the hole on the side of cam on the spinlock.
  • Page 72 14.4 - Adding the Downhaul Control Line to the Centre Console Make sure you have added the downhaul control line to the boat first (section 3). Locate the block attached to the downhaul control line between the cleat and the hole in the foredeck.
  • Page 73 14.5 - Adding the Gnav Control Line to the Centre Console Make sure you have added the gnav control line to the boat first (section 3). Locate the block attached to the gnav control line between the cleat and the hole in the foredeck.
  • Page 74 14.6 - Rigging the Mainsheet to the Centre Console Untie the figure of eight in the end of the mainsheet, then unthread it from the mainsheet block. You will need to reposition this block so that it hangs directly above the centre console.
  • Page 75 14.7 - Rigging the Jib Sheets to the Centre Console Locate the jib sheet blocks, metal spacers, 30mm jib blocks and the jib block tie in the SCS kit. Completely remove the jib sheet. Remove the two bolts holding the fairlead to the jib car. Add metal spacers into the fairlead holes then add the jib sheet blocks on top of the fairlead using the bolts you removed in step c.
  • Page 76 14.7 - Rigging the Jib Sheets to the Centre Console Tie the two 30mm blocks tightly onto the tack of the jib. Tie a knot #3 in one end of the jib sheet and feed it through the port jib fairlead as shown. Feed the jib sheet through the port block on the jib.
  • Page 77 14.7 - Rigging the Jib Sheets to the Centre Console Feed the jib sheet through the port cleat on the lower tier of the centre console. Lead the jib sheets through the starboard cleat. Pass the jib sheet through the block on top of the starboard jib fairlead. Do not pass the jib sheet through the fairlead or cleat.
  • Page 78 14.7 - Rigging the Jib Sheets to the Centre Console Feed the jib sheet through the starboard block on the jib. Feed the jib sheet through the starboard jib fairlead and tie a figure of eight in the end. The jib sheet is now ready to use.
  • Page 79 Seated Control System 15. Steering lines If the SCS kit has already been fitted, go straight to 15.4i Different low friction steering options i.e left is right are visible in the Modifications Section PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...
  • Page 80 There are six steering line tidies which must be added to the hull before you can fit the steering lines. 15.1 - Adding the Steering Line Tidies Locate the steering line tidies in the SCS kit. There will be two with just a block attached (for the aft gunwhales), two with blocks and steering lines attached (forward cockpit sides) and two with a block and a metal clip (for the aft cockpit floor).

  • Page 81: Steering Line Tidies

    15.1 - Adding the Steering Line Tidies Remove the 3 screws on top of the gunwhale near the stern on both sides of the boat. Line up the steering line tidies with the screw holes (keeping the block towards the stern) and screw into place using the screws you removed in step d.
  • Page 82 15.1 - Adding the Steering Line Tidies Remove the 3 screws at the sides of the cockpit just above the front end of the seat inserts. Add sealant into holes first. Line up the steering line tidies with the screw holes (keeping the steering line at the front and the block towards the stern) and screw into place using the screws you removed in step d.
  • Page 83 15.2 - Adding the Steering Handles Remove the screws from the front slot of the seat inserts either side of the cockpit. Add the steering handles by sliding the ends of the steering bar into the front slot of the seat inserts. Fix the steering bar into place using the screws removed in step a.

  • Page 84: Preparing The Tillers

    15.3 - Preparing the Tillers Skip section 15.3 If the SCS kit has already been fitted. Remove the tiller extension. There is an eyelet attached to the end of each tiller. Remove the screw holding one end of the eyelet. Rotate the eyelet to allow you to add the Q-clip, then rotate the eyelet back into place.

  • Page 85: Adding The Steering Lines

    15.4 - Adding the Steering Lines If the SCS kit has already been fitted go straight to step i. Locate the two knotted steering lines and the two 20mm steering line blocks in the SCS kit. The steering lines are in two parts. The first parts of the steering lines already attached to the front organisers.
  • Page 86 15.4 - Adding the Steering Lines Pass the other end of the knotted line forwards under the side plate, around the block added in step c, and back under the plate. Pass the end through the block on the port organiser in the aft corner of the cockpit floor.

  • Page 87: Adding The Steering Line Elastics

    15.5 - Adding the Steering Line Elastics Locate the tiller elastic in the SCS kit. Untie the knot and remove the red plastic bobble. Feed the tiller elastic through both eyelets on the aft face of the cockpit, from starboard to port (leaving the green bobble on the starboard side of the boat).
  • Page 88 15.5 - Adding the Steering Line Elastics Take the steering line bungy from the pack and tie one end onto the forward steering line organiser on the port side of the boat with knot Pass the end across the boat, passing through the rings on top of both tillers.

  • Page 89: Calibrating The Steering Lines

    15.6 - Calibrating the Steering Lines Using the calibration pin attached to one of the steering columns, lock the steering handles in a vertical position. storage hole With the calibration pin still in place, adjust the lines so that the tension is even and the rudders face forwards.

  • Page 90: Elastic Takeaways

    Seated Control System 16. Elastic takeaways If the SCS kit has already been fitted, go straight to 16.1d PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...
  • Page 91 16.1 - Adding the Gennaker Uphaul/Downhaul Takeaways Locate the gennaker uphaul/downhaul takeaway elastic (with a 20mm block attached) from the SCS kit. Thread the loose end of the elastic aft from the cockpit, through the tube that runs through the aft locker and out the hole in the transom.
  • Page 92 16.1 - Adding the Gennaker Uphaul/Downhaul Takeaways Pass the gennaker downhaul aft over the port toerail, under the port seat and through the block you added in step b. Thread the gennaker downhaul forward under the port seat, over the port toerail and through the block on the port toestrap fitting.
  • Page 93 16.1 - Adding the Gennaker Uphaul/Downhaul Takeaways Locate the P-clip and the plastic ring in the SCS pack. Remove the nut from the bolt in the mast step which supports the front face of the mast foot. Add a P-clip to the bolt then replace the nut and tighten. Tie bungy onto p-clip with knot Pass the elastic up the mast and through the metal ring,...

  • Page 94: Gennaker Sheet Tidies

    16.1 - Adding the Gennaker Uphaul/Downhaul Takeaways Thread the gennaker downhaul up the gennaker chute, through the patch(es) on the gennaker and tie it back onto the top patch with knot 16.2 - Gennaker Sheet Tidies Locate the 2 x gennaker sheet elastics and 2 x plastic rings in the SCS pack. Tie the plastic ring onto the of the elastic with knot...
  • Page 95 16.2 - Gennaker Sheet Tidies Pass the other end of the elastic through the deck eye on the side tank (just aft of the steering handles) in an aft direction. Pass the tail aft and tie it to the deck eye at the back of the side tank with knot Repeat on the other side of the boat.

  • Page 96: Power Assist

    Power Assisted Steering and Mainsheet V2 PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...
  • Page 97 17 - Pack contents - Seated Control System QUANTITY Hand controller (Joystick) Waterproof Control Box Power Switch Rear cockpit hatch cover with ram battery charger control arms locknuts locknuts reversed thread Ball Joints / Quick release assembly 2 long Rear hatch tray foam 2 short components Sachet of jointing...
  • Page 98 17 - Pack contents - Power Boom Power boom 1c - Pack contents - Sip / Puff Controller Joystick controller box Sip / puff headset with clear plastic pipe...

  • Page 99: Cutting The Rear Hatch

    18.1 - Cutting the rear hatch In order to fit the Power Assist kit it is necessary to cut a section out of the rear tank hatch to allow the wires to exit. Measure carefully and mark the area to be cut. 25mm 25mm 50mm...

  • Page 100: Assembling The Foam Tray

    18.2 - Assembling the foam tray Locate the foam tray components from the pack. short pieces Note the two long pieces are different heights. Lay the two long pieces on the floor and slot the two small pieces into them, ensuring that the low end of the slanted short piece joins up with the low long piece and vice versa.

  • Page 101: Control Arms

    18.3 - Control arms For this section you will need: 2 x control arms 2 x ball joint / quick release assembly Rear cockpit hatch cover with ram jointing 2 x locking nuts 2 x locking nuts compound 2 x rudder stocks (opposite thread) Unscrew the white plastic lugs from the underside of the rudders.
  • Page 102 18.3 - Control arms Thread the ball joint into the rudder stock until tight and tighten lock nut to secure. Spin 1 x locknut onto each end of the control bar. Note one end of the bar has a reverse thread. Select the correct nut accordingly.
  • Page 103 18.3 - Control arms Lift control box into rear hatch Connect the power switch to the control box and make sure it is in the ‘off’ position. Connect the hand controller (joystick) and steering to the control box. Lead all wires through the lid cut out. Fit the lid and lock it in position.
  • Page 104 18.3 - Control arms Attach the twin rudder system to the transom. Fit the main connecting bar between the tiller ends. Make sure the ram actuation levers are set on the centre line. This is done by eye siting from behind the boat. The ram can be moved by hand with a bit of effort by pulling or pushing on the black actuation levers mounted on the hatch lid.
  • Page 105 18.3 - Control arms Make sure the tillers are equidistant to the centre line. Make sure the rudders are clear of the ground. Attach one of the quick release control rod ends onto the ball joint under you fitted to the underside of the tiller. Visually check the tiller you attached is pointing just inside the centre line (The twin rudder system has a slight amount...
  • Page 106 18.3 - Control arms Connect the quick release end fitting to the other side. If required hold the quick release end fitting and twist the control rod to move the end fitting in or out board. Once fitted, double check the tillers on both rudders are just slightly toed in to the centre line.
  • Page 107 18.3 - Control arms Make sure the rudders are clear of the ground. Turn the power switch on and test full articulation of tillers left and right.
  • Page 108 Seated Control System 19. Power Assist Pack & Electronic Joystick Steering Operating Guide PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 109: Preparation

    19.1 - Preparation Due to the complex nature of this product it is vital that all sailing sessions have an able bodied person onboard the boat to assist in the event of mechanical or electrical failure. The Power Assist Package can be used in many scenarios and this guide only gives generic advice for its operation.
  • Page 110 19.1 - Preparation Run the main power switch out of the rear hatch and locate in its desired position. The lead is long enough to feed between the seats and be mounted on the main control plinth. Some people may prefer the switch in their lap.

  • Page 111: Ashore

    19.2 - Ashore Fit the rudders, connecting bar and tiller extension. Raise the rudders and lock in position. Rudders cannot be stowed in the fully up position if the threaded control bar is connected. Thread the anti-tangle elastics: Pass the end across the boat, passing through the rings on top of both tillers, then tie to the forward Tie elastic onto forward organiser with...
  • Page 112 19.2 - Ashore Untie the knot and remove one plastic bobble. Feed the tiller elastic through both eyelets on the aft face of the cockpit, from starboard to port (leaving one bobble on the starboard side of the boat). Put the other bobble back on the end of the elastic and tie knot #3 in the end.

  • Page 113: Afloat

    19.3 - Afloat...

  • Page 114: Power Mainsheet Operating Guide

    Seated Control System 20. Power Mainsheet System Operating Guide PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...
  • Page 115 20.1 - Motor Drum Line Line passes through Line shackles onto bullseye on boom. the slug in the track on the boom. knot #2...

  • Page 116: Motor Drum Line

    20.2 - Mainsheet System Mark on mainsheet (See section 4.5 a + b) It is important that enough mainsheet tail remains in the boat so that the able bodied sailor can override the the drum in the event of power failure. 20.3 - Boom Slug / Track Mainsheet Motor drum line...

  • Page 117: Elastic Tensioner

    20.4 - Elastic Tensioner Elastic passes Elastic passes around block around block Elastic passes through hole elastic ties to becket on mainsheet block Stopper knot (on boom track slug) inside boom 20.5 - Using the Power Boom Allow the motor to sheet out until the boom almost touches the shrouds then cleat the mainsheet.
  • Page 118 20.5 - Using the Power Boom The able bodied sailor can adjust the mainsheet by hand if necessary (For example an emergency sheet out in a gust) but the mainsheet must be returned to the marked position before the motor is used. mark mark mark...
  • Page 119 20.5 - Using the Power Boom When sheeting out in light winds: Stop the drum if loops form along the boom. Push the boom out by hand before restarting the drum. Carefully watch the drum line to make sure it does not unspool off the drum.
  • Page 120 Seated Control System 21. Electronic Joystick & Sip / Puff Controller Operating Guide PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 121: Fitting The Sip / Puff Controller

    21.1 - Fitting the Sip / Puff Controller Make sure the power switch is in the ‘off’ position. Plug the grey wire from the joystick into the black ‘Peli Box’. Plug the clear tube from the sip / puff Put headset on headset into the joystick box.

  • Page 122: Using The Sip / Puff Controller

    21.2 - Using the Sip / Puff Controller With the rocker switch in STR position: Sip / puff will operate the steering. Constant positive or negative pressure will move tillers left or right. If you stop positive or negative pressure the tillers will stop moving. The joystick will operate mainsheet but will interfere with the sip / puff control if steering axis is used.
  • Page 123 21.2 - Using the Sip / Puff Controller With the rocker switch in MAIN position: Sip / puff will operate the mainsheet. Constant positive or negative pressure will sheet in or out. The joystick will control the steering but will interfere with the sip / puff control if the mainsheet axis is used.
  • Page 124 21.2 - Using the Sip / Puff Controller With the rocker switch in OFF position: Joystick will control steering and mainsheet.
  • Page 125 Seated Control System 22. Problem Solving PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 126: Troubleshooting

    22.1 - Troubleshooting Slow rudder or mainsheet movement • Low battery charge • 4 amp blade fuse needs replacement. All systems inoperative • Low battery charge. • Power switch not connected or connection issue. • See note on control board lights. (5.2) •...
  • Page 127 22.2 - Control Board Lights Fwd signal received from controller. (Joystick or Sip / Puff) Back signal received from controller. (Joystick or Sip / Puff) Left signal received from controller. (Joystick or Sip / Puff) Right signal received from controller. (Joystick or Sip / Puff) Light on when controller activated but no movement = connection or motor / ram issue No light on when controller activated = connection or controller (joystick / sip puff) issue...

  • Page 128: Scs Modifications

    SCS Modifications...
  • Page 129 Appendix - 1 - Steering System To change steering to ‘left is right / right is left’ Remove the existing joystick control lines. The deck eye and Q-clip on the tiller needs to be moved (or a new one added if you want to retain the option of the original system) to 380mm from the outboard end of each tiller.
  • Page 130 Appendix - 1 - Steering System Pass the end of the line through the block on the organiser which it came from. Pass the line straight to the rear most deck organiser on the gunwhale (on the same side of the boat) and around the block. Tie several spaced knots in the end of the line, then attach the line to the tiller by sliding one of the knots into the Q-clip.
  • Page 131 Appendix - 1 - Steering System The steering system must now be calibrated. Using the calibration pin attached to one of the steering columns, lock the steering handles in a vertical position. storage hole With the calibration pin still in place, adjust the lines so that the tension is even and the rudders face forwards.
  • Page 132 Appendix - 1 - Steering System...

  • Page 133: Completion

    Rigging Guide 10. Completion PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...
  • Page 134 If you have not already done so, coil the main and jib halyards neatly and stow them in the halyard bag on the starboard side, or in the velcro pocket in the base of the chute sock if you have the gennaker. Now you are ready to launch and sail your RS Venture Connect!

  • Page 135: Sailing Hints

    Rigging Guide 11. Sailing Hints PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 136: Introduction

    11.1 - Introduction The RS Venture Connect is a very rewarding boat to sail – to fully appreciate its handling, you should be comfortable with the basic techniques of sailing small boats. If you lack confidence or feel that a refresher is in order, there are many approved sailing schools which can be recommended.
  • Page 137 11.4 - Sailing Close-Hauled and Tacking When sailing close-hauled, or as close as possible to the wind, it is important to get the boom as near as possible to the centreline, especially when sailing the with the mainsail and jib. The kicking strap should be firmly tensioned for upwind work. To pull it on, quickly put the boat head to wind.
  • Page 138 11.6 - Using the Gennaker The gennaker halyard pulls the bowsprit out at the same time – when the gennaker is hoisted, you are ready to go. The crew, or the helm if sailing singlehanded, should now pull gently on the leeward gennaker sheet until the gennaker has filled. Gennakers may be effectively used from a close reach to a broad reach so, to get downwind, one should become adept at gybing.
  • Page 139 Rigging Guide 12. Maintenance PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 140: Foil Care

    Like the hull, the foils will benefit from being rinsed in fresh water regularly, when you hose down the boat. If you are going to trail your boat frequently, you may wish to invest in an RS Sailing padded rudder bag. These will protect your RS Venture from any damage caused by the rudder and...

  • Page 141: Spar Care

    12.3 - Spar Care The mast and boom are aluminium. Wash with fresh water as often as possible, both inside and out. Check all of the riveted fittings on a regular basis for any signs of corrosion or wear. 12.4 - Sail Care The mainsail should be rolled and stored dry, out of direct sunlight.

  • Page 142: Warranty

    Rigging Guide 13. Warranty PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...
  • Page 143 6. Warranty claims shall be made to RS Sailing as soon as practicable and, in any event, within 28 days of discovery of the defect. No repairs under warranty are to be undertaken without written approval of RS Sailing.

  • Page 144: Knots

    14 - Knots Knot #1 Knot #2 Knot #3 Knot #4 Knot #5 Knot #6 Knot #1 - Knot on knot Knot #2 - Bowline...
  • Page 145 14 - Knots Knot #3 - Figure of eight Knot #4 - Overhand knot Knot #5 - Double sheet bend Knot #6 - Cow hitch...

  • Page 146: Glossary

    Rigging Guide 15. Glossary...
  • Page 147 At the back Anchor Line Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat Astern Behind the boat Asymmetric Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow Back To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of the sail Bailer A bucket or other container used for bailing water Batten...
  • Page 148 Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction Capsize...
  • Page 149 Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing Foils The daggerboard and the rudder Foot The bottom edge of a sail Fore Towards the front of the boat Forestay...
  • Page 150 ‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from, causing the sails to flap ‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib Heel A boat ‘heels’ when it leans over due to the sideways force of the wind Helm/Helmsman The person who steers the boat, or another name for the tiller...
  • Page 151 Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west. They help you measure position and distance on a chart. Leech The back edge of the sail Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the wind is blowing Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind...
  • Page 152 The rope at the bow used to tie the boat to a fixed object Pontoon A floating jetty to moor your boat to Port The left-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards RS Dealer A third-party who sells the RS range Reach Sailing with the wind on the side of the boat...
  • Page 153 Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to trail behind a vehicle Rowlocks U shaped fittings that fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in position while rowing...
  • Page 154 Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents Starboard.
  • Page 155 ‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be in motion Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing...

This manual is also suitable for:

Venture connect scsVenture connect scs race

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