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RS RS100 Rigging Manual

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R I G G I N G G U I D E
Sail it. Live it. Love it.

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Summary of Contents for RS RS100

  • Page 1 R I G G I N G G U I D E Sail it. Live it. Love it.

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    CONTENTS 1. INTRODUCTION 2. COMMISSIONING 2.1 Preparation 2.2 Rigging the Mast 2.3 Stepping the Mast 2.4 Rigging the Boom 2.5 Hoisting the Mainsail 2.6 Rigging the Gennaker 2.7 Attaching sail numbers 2.8 Completion 3. SAILING HINTS 3.1 Tacking 3.2 Gybing (mainsail only) 3.3 Sailing With the Assymetric Spinnaker 4.

  • Page 3: Introduction

    RS product. We are confident that you will have many hours of great sailing and racing in this truly excellent design. The RS100 is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum enjoyment from your RS100, in a safe manner.

  • Page 4: Commissioning

    • Pozi-drive screwdriver • PVC Electrician’s Tape Should your RS100 require roping out, you will also need a 3mm splicing fid, and the supplementary instructions. If it has already been roped out and prepared, it is still wise to check knots and lashings, and tighten shackles yourself prior to commissioning.

  • Page 5: Rigging The Mast

    2.2 Rigging the Mast Your RS 100 mast consists of 3 component sections: The short base section is used only in conjunction with the 10.2m sail, and if you are using this sail, then insert this short base section into the lower main mast. The mast base plug is already supplied attached to this base section.
  • Page 6 Rigging the main halyard: The main halyard should be threaded around the top sheave, inside the mast briefly and out through the slot on the front of the mast, above the cleat – both sited close to the top of the mast. Tie an overhand knot in the end of the halyard that will tie to the sail (aft of the mast), and tape it to the mast about 20cm above the relevant gooseneck hole (10.2m –...
  • Page 7 Rigging the shrouds, spreaders and spinnaker hoist block: The shrouds should be shackled to the lower mast eye (10.2m), or the middle mast eye (8.4m) and the spinnaker hoist block shackled to the middle mast eye (10.2m) or the upper mast eye (8.4m), as in the photo below. The top ends of the shrouds to be shackled to the mast are marked with black tape around the terminals.
  • Page 8 Using the pozidrive screwdriver loosen the screws in the end of the spreaders to enable the shrouds to be attached. Double check the shrouds are the right way up by pulling a shroud tight down to the spreaders (whilst the spreaders are rotated centrally on the mast) and checking the spreaders can be clamped between the pair of ferrules.
  • Page 9 Take the gennaker halyard from where it exits on top of the mast gate organiser and thread it through the hoist block that is above the point where the shrouds attach to the mast. Run the gennaker halyard back down to the base of the mast, passing through the little shockcord retaining loop at the spreaders.

  • Page 10: Stepping The Mast

    The RS100 mast only requires one person to step it. However, if you are stepping it for the first time, or if it is windy, it would be wise to have another person with you in case of any difficulty.

  • Page 11: Rigging The Boom

    2.4 Rigging the Boom To thread the mainsheet: 1. Lead the mainsheet through the centre jammer cleat and ratchet block (making sure that the rope is threaded through the ratchet block the correct way, so that it ‘grips’ the rope when the sheet pulls out and runs freely when you pull the sheet in).
  • Page 12 the other side, through the other side of the boom jaw. Now firmly screw the head of the boom bolt home to secure the boom. The Gnav arms and roller should be sitting astride the mast marginally above the boom, with the control lines over the boom –...

  • Page 13: Hoisting The Mainsail

    2.5 Hoisting the Mainsail and rigging the control lines. TOP TIP To hoist the mainsail: Only hoist the mainsail when you are ready to go afloat, as this will prolong the life of your sail and prevent any possible damage occurring while you are away from your boat. 1.
  • Page 14 4. Tie the main halyard to the head of the mainsail, using the “knot on a knot” method. See the photo at the back of this manual – “knots”. 5. Hoist the mainsail, ensuring the boat is head to wind, by pulling on the end of the main halyard that runs down the front face of the mast.
  • Page 15 8. Now feed the Cunningham line up through the sail and back down to tie onto the shackle on the aft eye on top of the boom. Again ensure the Cunningham block is up by the sail eye, to ensure you have maximum travel.

  • Page 16: Rigging The Gennaker

    2.6 Rigging the Gennaker To rig the gennaker: 1. Take the tack line that emerges from the end of the bowsprit, and tie it to the tack of the gennaker. If this is tied to the gennaker halyard that emerges from the chute, ensure you do not lose the halyard back up the chute –...
  • Page 17 7. Pass the sheets through the shockcord retainers emerging from the foredeck either side of and adjacent to the mast. 8. Thread the gennaker sheet through the ratchet blocks on the side decks and tie the two ends together. Ensuring that you pass the sheets aft of the mainsheet base.

  • Page 18: Attaching Sail Numbers

    2.7 Attaching Sail numbers The sail numbers come with your boat in the “owners pack”, and will be found with an instruction sheet. The National letters supplied should be put on to the sail in the panel below the numbers, by following the same instructions, ie measure in 100mm from the edge and 70mm down from the batten pocket, and mark up the sail, then fix the letters as you did the numbers.
  • Page 19 Launching: Now you are ready to launch your RS100: As you float the boat off the trolley, you will need to smartly grab the gunwale or shroud, to ensure the boat remains upright, and does not float away. It is helpful at this stage to have someone to help take the trolley.
  • Page 20 Centreboard It is helpful to lower a small amount of board prior to getting in – if sufficient depth of water. To do this you pull on the board downhaul which emerges either side from the mainsheet turret When you have sailed into deeper water, lower the board fully – as far as the down as the system allows.

  • Page 21: Sailing Hints

    3. SAILING HINTS The RS100 is a new breed of single-handed dinghy with an asymmetric gennaker – it will feel different to sail compared to many other boats. It will be a challenge to learn to sail the boat to its full potential, let alone handling the asymmetric gennaker.
  • Page 22 Hoisting the Gennaker To hoist the gennaker, bear off onto a broad reach and ensure that there is plenty of room to leeward. Ease the mainsheet right out and cleat it, so that the boom is nearly touching the shroud, and ensure that the kicker is eased as usual for downwind sailing.
  • Page 23 Gybing To gybe the gennaker, bear off while continually easing the gennaker. Put the gennaker sheet in your tiller hand and reach in to uncleat the mainsheet. The quicker you do this the better, as the boat will have slowed down and the mainsheet will have loaded up –...

  • Page 24: Tuning Guide

    4.0 Tuning guide 1. Rig concept: Upwind. In common with many unstayed rigs the RS100 is very versatile in terms of both power and responsiveness. Where the RS100 (and also the RS300) vary is in the operation of the Gnav/kicker: Apart from controlling the leech as normal, it also...
  • Page 25 The secret to getting the best out of the RS100 rigs is to understand the versatility and being practiced at “changing gear”. 2. Control set-up: 1. Main halliard: It is absolutely essential to ensure the sail is hoisted fully and stays there: Tie the halliard to the sail with a “knot on a Knot”...
  • Page 26 2/3rds of the range: Generally more rake appears better in the breeze and less in the light, but remember it is not quite so important with a flexible rig like the RS100, and you have to get under the boom! For example, as I am fairly un-flexible these days, I never rig aft of the middle setting when on the 10.2, as one bad tack getting stuck...
  • Page 27 Wind Mainsheet kicker Cunningham Outhaul Mastgate Shrouds Outboard 15% - Zero 3-4 ins 8.4 – 8.4 – knots of bridle enough off the mark 6 hole 3 knots to take boom at midpoint out luff round 10.2 – 10.2 – mark 4 hole 2 Taking...
  • Page 28 The above table is really for guidance only. I would urge you to work at understanding the concept of the rig design as detailed above, and then think about your own individual settings 8. The centreboard: generally speaking it should stay all the way down, all the time: In a breeze upwind it may help to raise it a few degrees, and downwind in the real light gains possible may be made by raising it 30-50% to aid soaking –...

  • Page 29: Maintenance

    5. MAINTENANCE 5.1 Boat Care The RS100 is made using an epoxy laminate. This is stiff and light, but will dent if subjected to point loading. The boat should be supported ashore on a recognised RS trolley and care must be taken when launching and recovering to avoid damage to the transom.

  • Page 30: Foil Care

    Wash with fresh water regularly. Should the foils become chipped or broken, they will not absorb water. However, they are difficult to fix. If you intend to travel a lot with the boat, then an RS padded rudder bag would be a worthwhile investment.

  • Page 31: Sail Care

    5.3 Spar Care The mast, boom and bowsprit are carbon tubing. It is advisable to apply a coat of varnish every 2 years. This protects the laminate against UV degradation in sunlight. Lightly sand the mast to help the new varnish bond to the surface. Wash with fresh water as often as possible, both inside and out.

  • Page 32: Warranty

    This warranty does not apply if the boat has been altered, modified, or repaired without prior written approval of RS Sailing. Any changes to the hull structure, deck structure, rig or foils without the written approval of RS Sailing will void this warranty.

  • Page 33: Appendix

    7. APPENDIX 7.1 Useful Websites & Recommended Reading Royal Yachting Association www.rya.org.uk RNLI – for help and advice about safety at sea – www.rnli.org.uk RS Class Association and Manufacturers: www.rs-association.com www.rssailing.com...

  • Page 34: Three Essential Knots

    7.2 Three Essential Knots Bowline The bowline is a reliable knot used for tying a loop in rope. It is extremely strong when under load, and unties easily once free of load. Some people use the rhyme “the rabbit comes out of the hole, round the tree, and back down the hole” as a way of remembering how to tie a bowline.
  • Page 35 Pass the tail around the standing rope   Thread the tail back through the loop, and tighten Knot-on-Knot A ‘knot-on-knot’ is useful for tying the end of a rope to a sail or a fitting, and is particularly reliable due to the manner in which the rope binds upon itself. Tie a single overhand knot in the end of the rope.
  • Page 36 Figure-of-Eight The ‘figure-of-eight’ knot is used as a stopper knot, preventing ropes from slipping through fittings. Like the bowline, the ‘figure-of-eight’ knot unties easily once free of load. Make a loop in the end of the rope Lead the tail underneath the standing end of the rope Lead the tail of the rope back through the loop, and tighten...

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