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26 —
D. CUTTING CURVES
When cutting curves, turn the stock carefully so that the blade may follow without being twisted. If
a curve is so abrupt that it is necessary to repeatedly back up and cut a new kerf, either a narrow
blade is needed or a blade with more set is required. The more set a blade has, the easier it will
allow the stock to be turned, but the cut is usually rougher than where a medium amount of set is
used.
Always make all the short cuts first, then proceed to the longer ones. Also make all of the straight
cuts before the curved ones. In many instances making relief cuts will keep the blade from being
pinched or twisted.
E. RESAWING
Many of our customers buy our bandsaws specifically for resawing. Problems can arise due to
incorrect blade selection or improper setup and operation. The 16" bandsaw was not specifically
designed for resawing. However, if you choose to do so, use good judgment Trying to resaw a
large workpiece might create an undue amount of strain and also be unsafe for the operator.
Again, the important factor is in blade selection. When selecting a blade, use the widest one
offered for use on your bandsaw. The blade should be of the best quality in order to take the
maximum amount of strain. In most applications a hook or skip tooth style will work just fine.
Because most of the lumber being resawn is sent back to the planer for final dressing, you can
choose blades with fewer teeth per inch (3 to 6). These types and kinds of blades offer larger gullet
capacities, reduce heat buildup, and place more HP per tooth where it is needed most: in the cut.
To resaw:
1. The bandsaw must be adjusted correctly. (See Adjustment Section.)
2. Table must be square with blade.
3. Blade must be in good condition.
4. Use of a pivot block or fence for reference point.
5. Draw center line on board.
6. Support ends of board if necessary.
7. Feed slowly and evenly.
When using a fence to resaw, the board often leads away from the fence. This can be caused by a
number of reasons:
1. Teeth are set heavy on one side.
2. Teeth are more dull on one side than the other.
3. Fence is not square to blade.
4. Incorrect amount of tension.
You can compensate by angling the fence or marking the board and sawing freehand.
We recommend using the pivot block method. This method compensates for different
thicknesses in material and lead, gives you a quick reference point and is easy to set up. Do not
force the wood into the blade. This distorts the blade, causes excessive heat and often results in
band breakage, as well as miscut lumber.
This completes the operating section of this manual. Using a bandsaw can be a very simple or
complex operation. We can not - within the pages of this manual - demonstrate all of the
procedures, methods, and tricks necessary to be an accomplished woodworker. We highly
recommend obtaining more information on bandsaw use and operation, or talking with a
professional woodworker or vocational instructor.
If you're doing well up to here, try to cut some wood. How does it work? Does it cut squarely? If not,
adjust your table stop and/or table adjustment knobs, as needed. Check results with a
combination square or a carpenter's square.
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