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3. BlADE TWiSTing (MiSAlignMEnT in CUT)
a. Pushing harder to cut through a knot, a nail, or a hard
grain area can cause the blade to twist.
b. Trying to turn the saw in the cut (trying to get back on
the marked line) can cause blade twist.
c. Over‑reaching or operating the saw with poor body
control (out of balance), can result in twisting the blade.
d. Changing hand grip or body position while cutting can
result in blade twist.
e. Backing up the saw to clear blade can lead to twist.
4. MATERiAlS ThAT REQUiRE EXTRA ATTEnTiOn
a. Wet lumber
b. Green lumber (material freshly cut or not kiln dried)
c. Pressure treated lumber (material treated with
preservatives or anti‑rot chemicals)
5. USE OF DUll OR DiRTY BlADES
a. Dull blades cause increased loading of the saw. To
compensate, an operator will usually push harder which
further loads the unit and promotes twisting of the blade
in the kerf. Worn blades may also have insufficient body
clearance which increases the chance of binding and
increased loading.
6. liFTing ThE SAW WhEn MAKing BEVEl CUT
a. Bevel cuts require special operator attention to proper
cutting techniques ‑ especially guidance of the saw. Both
blade angle to the foot plate and greater blade surface
in the material increase the chance for binding and
misalignment (twist) to occur.
7. RESTARTing A CUT WiTh ThE BlADE TEETh JAMMED
AgAinST ThE MATERiAl
a. The saw should be brought up to full operating speed
before starting a cut or restarting a cut after the unit has
been stopped with the blade in the kerf. Failure to do so
can cause stalling and kickback.
Any other conditions which could result in pinching, binding,
twisting, or misalignment of the blade could cause kickback.
Refer to the sections on adjustments and operation for
procedures and techniques that will minimize the occurrence
of kickback.
Workpiece Support (Fig. O–Q)
WARNING: It is important to support the work properly
and to hold the saw firmly to prevent loss of control which
could cause personal injury. Figure O illustrates proper
hand support of the saw. Maintain a firm grip with both
hands on the saw and position your body and arm to
allow you to resist kickback if it occurs.
Figure O shows proper sawing position. Note that hands are
kept away from cutting area. To avoid kickback, DO support
board or panel NEAR the cut (Fig. P). DON'T support board or
panel away from the cut (Fig. Q).
Place the work with its "good" side—the one on which
appearance is most important—down. The saw cuts upward,
so any splintering will be on the work face that is up when you
cut it.
Cutting (Fig. O)
WARNING: Never attempt to use this tool by resting it
upside down on a work surface and bringing the material
to the tool. Always securely clamp the workpiece and
bring the tool to the workpiece, securely holding the tool
with two hands as shown in Figure O.
Place the wider portion of the saw foot plate on that part of
the work piece which is solidly supported, not on the section
that will fall off when the cut is made. As examples, Figure O
illustrates the RIGHT way to cut off the end of a board. Always
clamp work. Don't try to hold short pieces by hand! Remember
to support cantilevered and overhanging material. Use caution
when sawing material from below.
Be sure saw is up to full speed before blade contacts material
to be cut. Starting saw with blade against material to be cut
or pushed forward into kerf can result in kickback. Push the
saw forward at a speed which allows the blade to cut without
laboring. Hardness and toughness can vary even in the same
piece of material, and knotty or damp sections can put a heavy
load on the saw. When this happens, push the saw more slowly,
but hard enough to keep working without much decrease
in speed. Forcing the saw can cause rough cuts, inaccuracy,
kickback, and over‑heating of the motor. Should your cut begin
to go off the line, don't try to force it back on. Release the switch
and allow blade to come to a complete stop. Then you can
withdraw the saw, sight anew, and start a new cut slightly inside
the wrong one. In any event, withdraw the saw if you must shift
the cut. Forcing a correction inside the cut can stall the saw and
lead to kickback.
IF SAW STALLS, RELEASE THE TRIGGER AND BACK THE SAW
UNTIL IT IS LOOSE. BE SURE BLADE IS STRAIGHT IN THE CUT AND
CLEAR OF THE CUTTING EDGE BEFORE RESTARTING.
As you finish a cut, release the trigger and allow the blade to
stop before lifting the saw from the work. As you lift the saw,
the spring‑tensioned telescoping guard will automatically close
under the blade. Remember the blade is exposed until this
occurs. Never reach under the work for any reason. When you
have to retract the telescoping guard manually (as is necessary
for starting pocket cuts) always use the retracting lever.
nOTE: When cutting thin strips, be careful to ensure that small
cutoff pieces don't hang up on inside of lower guard.
Ripping (Fig. R, S)
Ripping is the process of cutting wider boards into narrower
strips – cutting grain lengthwise. Hand guiding is more difficult
for this type of sawing and the use of either D
rip guide or DWS5100 dual port rip guide is recommended.
Pocket Cutting (Fig. T)
WARNING: Never tie the blade guard in a raised
position. Never move the saw backwards when
pocket cutting. This may cause the unit to raise up
off the work surface which could cause injury.
A pocket cut is one that is made in a floor, wall, or other
flat surface.
1. Adjust the saw foot plate so the blade cuts at desired depth.
2. Tilt the saw forward and rest front of the foot plate on
material to be cut.
EngliSh
WALT DW3278
E
17
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