Craftsman TS3650 Instruction Manual

1. Table Saw
1. Plan:
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Printed 18:10 3/31/07
DONE Buy the Ridgid TS3650.
DONE Buy a push shoe (see if they have one at Home Depot, else could buy the Craftsman one that Sears has).
1. Use a push shoe rather than a push stick:
1. "Push Shoe"
http://home.att.net/~waterfront-woods/Articles/PushShoe.htm
1. [This is a very good idea - should use it rather than a push stick.]
2. Safety and the Table Saw - "Push Sticks and Hold-Down Devices"
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/safe-4.htm
3. Pre-made:
1. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&pid=00932190000&cat=Power+Tool+Acce
ssories&subcat=Tool+Safety&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1
2. http://www.vermontamerican.com/Products/productdetail.htm?G=190912&GRP=190912&I=70515
Make or buy a featherboard.
1. How to make a featherboard: http://www.woodzone.com/tips/featherboard.htm
2. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=1651
1. 12
3. http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-005-Feather-Loc-Featherboard/dp/B000051WS9
1. 17
4. Magnetic: (more expensive, probably keep it in mind and "upgrade" if necessary)
1. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7534
1. 50
5. Can see what they have at Home Depot.
Buy an inexpensive push block or two:
1. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VM/ref=pd_cp_hi_title/002-9117502-0836809?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_r=1EB0W0AGR1T8SBDZKV7R&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=277661601&pf_rd_i=B000051WS9
Buy a zero-clearance insert (one or more) for use with different blades.
1. They come solid; you customize it by passing the specific blade up through it.
2. Dado insert for the Ridgid:
1. http://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-RG-1-RIDGID-TS3650-Clearance/dp/B0006FKJGY
1. 22
2. Positive reviews.
3. Make your own: http://www.hoistman.com/HoistMan/ZCItute.html
Probably buy non-silicone wax for use on the top of the table saw, to keep it from rusting.
Possibly buy a better saw blade.
1. Maybe Forrest WWII.
2. http://www.forrestsawblades.com/
3. DeWalt DW7657
1. http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DW7657-General-Purpose-Blade/dp/B000H0VSHW/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-9117502-
0836809?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1175312167&sr=8-1
2. http://www.amazon.com/DW7657-10-Inch-General-Purpose-Woodworking/dp/B00008K2TZ
3. http://www.epinions.com/content_220309917316?linkin_id=8003929
1. After owning it for just a short time, I'm convinced that this has got to be the best value on the market. I'm a
staunch supporter of the venerable Forrest WWII blade and am favorably impressed with the similar Ridge
Carbide TS2000, but am also extremely impressed with the DW 7657 so far. It's difficult to distinguish cuts
made between the two blades. Both are so good that it's difficult to even spot saw marks. One of the
woodworking magazines did a comparison test between the DW7657 and the WWII and found the 7657
delivers remarkeably similar performance to the Forrest at close to half the cost. I agree and so do many others
who've tried both.
2. the DW is only available in this configuration as a full kerf. Both Forrest and DeWalt offer stabilizers for their
blades to supposedly reduce vibration, but I've yet to notice an improvement from them. DeWalt offers other
thin kerf general purpose blades in other model numbers but don't have the same specs as the 7657.
3. These top shelf general purpose 40T blades also do an extremely good job crosscutting and for cutting most
sheet goods. To get cleaner cuts in these materials, you'd have to maintain the level of quality and increase the
tooth count to 60 to 80 teeth, which means significantly higher initial cost, and higher cost for resharpening.
There are 60 and 80 tooth blades for less money, but most offer inferior quality to the DW and Forrest and will
not cut as well in the long run. If you're like me, you'll find the 7657 and the Forrest will be installed on your saw
for aout 90% of your cuts.
4. Freud
1. LU86R010
1. http://www.epinions.com/content_227985493636?linkin_id=8003929 by woody2
1. It's configured with smaller saws and versatility in mind, and delivers handsomely on that claim. It'll rip
and crosscut well enough to leave in place for about 90% of the cuts I make. It makes cleaner cuts than
a rip blade, yet can handle ripping chores that a crosscut blade can't. Only for heavy duty ripping of very
thick hardwoods will I swap the LU86 for a dedicated rip blade. In comparison to it's 60 tooth cousin, the
LU88, the 40 tooth LU86 offers a slightly less polished edge, but handles thicker materials more easily,
and is more versatile in the range of cuts and materials it'll handle. It cuts cleanly enough to use for
nearly all crosscuts in hard and soft woods. It does well in most plywoods too, splintering only slightly on
the underside. The thin kerf body and shape of the teeth help this blade glide through tough woods even
with average size saws, and has an effortless feel when cutting.
2. This will be my recommendation to family and friends looking for a good all around blade that will work
well in a modest saw without breaking the bank. It'll see use in my saw for everyday use and as a back
up to my Forrest WWII.
2. LU88R010
1. http://www.epinions.com/content_226312687236 by woody2
DRD-Pers
1