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Crosscuts
A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any
angle. A straight crosscut is made with the mitre arm at the
zero degree position. Set and lock the mitre arm at zero, hold
the wood firmly on the table and against the fence. With the
rail lock knob tightened, turn on the saw by squeezing the
trigger switch (19).
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower
the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let the
blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
When cutting anything larger than a 51 mm x 102 mm, use an
out-down-back motion with the rail lock knob loosened.
Pull the saw out, toward you, lower the saw head down toward
the workpiece, and slowly push the saw back to complete the
cut. Do not allow the saw blade to contact the top of the
workpiece while pulling out. The saw may run toward you,
possibly causing personal injury or damage to the workpiece.
Warning! Always use a work clamp to maintain control and
reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury.
Note: The rail lock knob must be loose to allow the saw
to slide along its rails.
Mitre crosscuts are made with the mitre arm at some angle
other than zero. This angle is often 45º for making corners, but
can be set anywhere from zero to 47º left or 47° right. Make
the cut as described above.
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood,
match the angle as close as possible. Cut the wood a little too
long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to
determine which direction to adjust the mitre angle and
recut. This will take some practice, but it is a commonly used
technique.
Body and hand position (Fig. O1 – O4)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the
mitre saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer
than 152 mm from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to
the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in position
until the trigger has been released and the blade has
completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS
(UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU
CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE.
DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN Figure O3 and O4.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper
balance. As you move the mitre arm left and right, follow it and
stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the
guard louvers when following a pencil line.
(Original instructions)
Bevel square to table adjustment (Fig. P)
To align the blade square to the table, lock the arm in the
down position with the lock down pin. Place a square
against the blade, ensuring the square is not on top of a tooth.
Loosen the bevel lock knob and ensure the arm is firmly
against the 0° bevel stop. Rotate the 0° bevel adjustment
screw with the 10 mm spanner (not provided) as necessary so
that the blade is at 0° bevel to the table, as measured
with the square.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes and other
four-sided projects (Fig. Q1, Q2)
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we
suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood
until you develop a "feel" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one
shown in Figure Q1. Sketch A in Figure Q2 shows a joint
made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of
the two boards at 45º each to produce a 90º corner. For this
joint the mitre arm was locked in the zero position and the
bevel adjustment was locked at 45º. The wood was positioned
with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge
against the fence. The cut could also be made by mitring right
and left with the broad surface against the fence.
Cutting trim molding and other frames (Fig. Q2)
Sketch B in Figure Q2 shows a joint made by setting the mitre
arm at 45º to mitre the two boards to form a 90º corner. To make
this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and the mitre
arm to 45º. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side
on the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
Figures Q1 and Q2 are for four-sided objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles.
The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes.
Number of Sides
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length. For a
shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula:
180º divided by the number of sides equals the mitre (if the
material is cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the material is cut
laying flat).
ENGLISH
Mitre or Bevel Angle
45º
36º
30º
25.7º
22.5º
20º
18º
15
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