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Singer 14SH644 Operator's Manual

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14
SH644
14
SH654
( 3 . 4 THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE )
( 3 . 4 THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE WITH DIFFERENTIAL FEED )
Operator's
Guide

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Summary of Contents for Singer 14SH644

  • Page 1 SH644 ( 3 . 4 THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE ) SH654 ( 3 . 4 THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE WITH DIFFERENTIAL FEED ) Operator's Guide...
  • Page 2 Before servicing the appliance , unplug the machine. If the light unit is damaged,it must be replaced by authorized dealer. ® Singer is a registered trademark of The Singer Company Limited or its affiliates. Copyright © 2005 The Singer Company Limited...
  • Page 3 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed including the following. Read all instructions before using the machine. DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock: * The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
  • Page 4 * Do not use outdoors. * Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. * Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

  • Page 5: Table Of Contents

    CONTENTS Page Page 21. Suggested Tension Setting ......29 1. Selection of Stitches ........5 1) 3-Thread Overlock ........29 2. Handy Reference Chart ........6 2) 3-Thread Flatlock ........30 3. Accessories ...........7 3) 3-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock ..31 4. Needle Information ..........7 4) 4-Thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch ..32 5.

  • Page 6: Selection Of Stitches

    1. SELECTION OF STITCHES This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of needle positions, threading methods, tension adjustment. Reference Stitch Type Pages 1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for 1. Three-thread overedging and seaming on common Overlock fabrics.

  • Page 7: Handy Reference Chart

    Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased still more by turning the overedge seam width adjustment knob. (See page 21) Overedge width 3.5mm 5.7mm Needle used Overedge right needle Overedge left needle Needle thread Green Blue tension dial 2.

  • Page 8: Accessories

    1 Needle set 2 Screw driver (small size) 3 Tweezers 4. NEEDLE INFORMATION Singer needle #2022 • Singer needle #2022 size 90/14 is furnished with the machine. 80/11 • In an emergency, standard Singer needle #2020 Sizes may be used.

  • Page 9: Principal Parts

    5. PRINCIPAL PARTS 1. Thread guides and holder 2. Handle 3. Left needle thread tension dial (blue) 4. Right needle thread tension dial (green) 5. Upper looper thread tension dial (orange) 6. Lower looper thread tension dial (yellow) 7. Throat plate 8.

  • Page 10: How To Open Looper Cover

    6. HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER Caution : Be sure to turn off power switch. • Push the cover to the right as far as it will go 1 . • Pull cover down toward you 2 . Caution: Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing. 7.

  • Page 11: Preparation For Threading

    POLARIZED PLUG INFORMATION (FOR U.S.A. & CANADA ONLY) This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.

  • Page 12: How To Remove And Insert Needles

    10. HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES To Remove Needle(s) Caution : Be sure to disconnect the machine from the electric outlet before removing needle(s). • Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is at its highest position. •...

  • Page 13: Threading The Machine

    11. THREADING THE MACHINE Threading Diagram • A color coded threading diagram is located inside the looper cover for quick reference. • Thread the machine in the order 1 to 4 as shown. Understanding the Color Code 1. Upper looper thread ... Orange 2.
  • Page 14 • Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread downward until it slips under thread guide 2 . • While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 .

  • Page 15: Threading The Lower Looper (Yellow)

    2) Threading the Lower Looper (Yellow) • Thread the lower looper as indicated 1 ~ 9 . • Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 . • Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread downward until it slips under thread guide 2 .
  • Page 16 • Turn the hand wheel toward you until the lower looper is at the far right. • Thread the looper area of the machine following the yellow color coded thread guides 4 ~ 7 . Note: Use the tweezers provided in the accessory set to aid in threading the looper.

  • Page 17: Threading The Right Needle (Green)

    3) Threading the Right Needle (Green) • Thread the right needle as indicated 1 ~ 8 . • Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 . • Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread downward until it slips under thread guide 2.
  • Page 18 • Continue to thread points 4 ~ 6 . Note: Be sure to pass the thread through upper thread path of the thread guide 6 . • Thread the eye of the right needle 8 . Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory set will make needle eye threading easy.

  • Page 19: Threading The Left Needle (Blue)

    4) Threading the Left Needle (Blue) • Thread the left needle as indicated 1 ~ 7 . • Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 . • Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread downward until it slips under thread guide 2.

  • Page 20: Important Threading Information

    • Continue to thread points 4 ~ 5 . Note: Be sure to pass the thread through lower thread path of the thread guide 5 . • Thread the eye of the left needle 7 . Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory set will make needle eye threading easy.

  • Page 21: How To Change Threads / Tie On Method

    12. HOW TO CHANGE THREADS / TIE ON METHOD • To change thread type or color, clip thread near the spool. • Place new thread on stand. • Tie new thread and old thread ends together. • Clip thread tails to 2 ~ 3cm (1 inch) length. If clipped too short, threads may come untied.

  • Page 22: How To Adjust The Stitch Length

    13. HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCH LENGTH • The stitch length dial should be set on the 3 mm (1/8 inch) setting for most sewing conditions. • Adjust the stitch length to 4mm (5/32 inch) when sewing heavy weight fabrics. •...

  • Page 23: How To Adjust The Presser Foot Pressure

    Width adjustment knob Caution: Before making adjustments, be sure to turn off power switch • Opening the looper cover will make adjustment easier. • Placement of upper knife in nonworking position 3.5 / Rolled hem will make adjustment easier.(see page 25) (When shipped from factory.) •...

  • Page 24: Differential Feed

    16. DIFFERENTIAL FEED • Differential feed is a system which “stretches” or “gathers” the fabric, when amount of feed of front feed dog in relation to the rear feed dog is changed. • The differential feed ratio ranges from 1 : 0.7 ~ 1 : 2.0.

  • Page 25: Stretch Overedge

    Stretch Overedge • Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and woven fabrics. To set the differential feed adjusting lever • Set differential feed adjusting lever knob above graduation "1.0". • To sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the presser foot.

  • Page 26: How To Disengage Movable Upper Knife

    17. HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE UPPER KNIFE Caution : Be sure to turn off power switch. To place movable knife in nonworking position • Turn handwheel over toward you and raise upper knife to its highest position. • Open looper cover (page 9). Movable Knife Holder •...

  • Page 27: Free Arm Sewing (Tubular Work)

    18. FREE ARM SEWING (TUBULAR WORK) This machine become a free arm machine simply by removing the cloth plate. To remove the cloth plate • Slide cloth plate to the left and remove from machine while pressing button (A) located on the underside. •...

  • Page 28: Standard Overedge And Rolled Hem Stitching

    19. STANDARD OVEREDGE AND ROLLED HEM STITCHING To Sew Standard Overedge • Set seam width finger knob to S to move seam width finger to projected position. Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as Seam width figer knob far as it will go in the direction of setting S .

  • Page 29: Chaining Off And Test Sewing

    20. CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING • When the machine is completely threaded, bring all of the threads over the throat plate and slightly to the left under the presser foot. • Hold the threads and apply a slight tension. •...

  • Page 30: Suggested Tension Setting

    21. SUGGESTED TENSION SETTING NEEDLE POSITION 1) 3-thread Overlock SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB Note: * These are suggested tension settings only. STITCH LENGTH 2 ~ 4 * Tension settings are effected by; Upper looper thread 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread Needle thread...

  • Page 31: 3-Thread Flatlock

    2) 3-thread Overlock NEEDLE POSITION Note: * These are suggested tension settings only. SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB * Tension settings are effected by; STITCH LENGTH 2 ~ 4 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread Needle thread Needle thread Upper looper...

  • Page 32: 3-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock

    3) 3-thread Wrapped Edge Overlock NEEDLE POSITION Note: * These are suggested tension settings only. SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB * Tension settings are effected by; STITCH LENGTH 2 ~ 4 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread. Needle thread Lower looper Upper looper...

  • Page 33: 4-Thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch

    4) 4-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch NEEDLE POSITION Note: * These are suggested tension settings only. SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB * Tension settings are effected by; STITCH LENGTH 2 ~ 4 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size Upper looper thread 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread Lower...

  • Page 34: How To Sew A Rolled Hem

    • Set stitch length dial to “F ~ 2” and a fine seam will be sewn. • Needle: Singer Needle #2022 size 80/11 or 90/14 • Thread: A variety of thread combinations can be used for rolled hemming.

  • Page 35: 3-Thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching

    Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper with wooly nylon and the needle and lower looper with lightweight regular thread. NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH F ~ 2 Upper looper thread 1) 3-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance Needle thread •...
  • Page 36 Additional Information About Rolled Hemming • Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to keep it from curling into the seam. • Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing direction and a finer seam finish can be obtained. •...

  • Page 37: Stitch Variations And Sewing Techniques

    23. STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING TECHNIQUES How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam • A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension of the 3-thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam and pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam. •...
  • Page 38 • Pull on opposite sides of the seam to pull the stitches flat. (3) Decorative Flatlocking • Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking position (page 25). The fabric is not trimmed on this stitch. • Fold fabric wrong sides together. •...

  • Page 39: How To Sew An Overlock Blind Hem

    How to Sew an Overlock Blind Hem • The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn and the raw edges are overlocked in one operation. • The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit wear. It provides a durable finish that is almost invisible.

  • Page 40: Turning Square Corners

    • Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together and sew. • Press the pin tucks in the same direction. Turning Square Corners Cutting line (1) Outside Corner • Cut out approximately 2 cm (51/64 inch) from the corner, in line with the overedge seam edge. 2 cm •...

  • Page 41: Pin Placement

    • Place the movable upper knife in nonworking position (page 25). • Stitch on cut edge of fabric. Needle position • Stop sewing before you reach the corner and fold the fabric to the left to straighten the corner. • Continue to sew slowly holding the fabric edge in a straight line moving the fold as you sew.

  • Page 42: How To Reinforce A Seam

    How to Reinforce a Seam • Inserting twill tape while overedge sewing will stabilize the seam. • Insert the tape through the hole in the front of the foot. • Position the tape under the foot to the back of the machine and sew the garment seam.

  • Page 43: Machine Maintenance

    24. MACHINE MAINTENANCE An overlock requires more maintenance than a conventional machine mainly due to two reasons. 1) A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action of the knives. 2) An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal working parts.

  • Page 44: How To Replace The Stationary Knife

    • The stationary knife can be replaced according to the directions provided, however if there are any difficulties experienced, consult your Singer representative to make the adjustments. • Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from the electric source.

  • Page 45: Troubleshooting Chart

    25. TROUBLESHOOTING CHART Problem Solution Page Fabric does not feed - Lengthen stitch length. well - Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric. - Decrease presser foot pressure for light weight fabric. Needle breaks - Insert needle correctly. - Do not pull fabric while sewing. - Tighten needle set screw.

  • Page 46: Relationship Between Cloth, Thread And Needle

    #60 - #80 Tetron: #50 - #60 #11, #14 Woolly nylon Woolly tetron Singer needle, Cat. No. 2022 is furnished with the machine however. It is recommended that you select your needle in accordance with the material you are sewing.

  • Page 47: Specification

    Rolled hemming 1.5mm, ordinary overedge 3.0 ~ 6.7mm (standard 3.5mm) Needle bar stroke 27mm Presser foot rise 4.5mm Needle Rolled hemming: Singer Cat. No. 2022 #11 Ordinary overedge: Singer Cat. No. 2022 #11, #14 Model 14SH644 14SH654 Number of threads Machine dimensions (mm) Width Depth Height...
  • Page 48 NOTES...
  • Page 49 NOTES...
  • Page 50 Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical/ electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance . (英语) Part No.378682-002L Rev.２...

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