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RS SAILING Feva Mk2 Rigging Manual

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Summary of Contents for RS SAILING Feva Mk2

  • Page 1 Mk2 Rigging Manual V1...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    Contents 1. INTRODUCTION 2. RS FEVA TECHNICAL DATA 3. COMMISSIONING Preparation Unpacking Toestraps Mainsheet Bridle Handles Gennaker Pole Spinnaker Tray Shroud adjuster plates Righting Lines 3.10 Rigging the Mast 3.11 Rigging the Jib 3.12 Rigging the mast for the Gennaker 3.13 Stepping the Mast 3.14 Rigging the Kicker 3.15 Rigging the Boom...

  • Page 3: Introduction

    RS Sailing highly recommends using RS supplied equipment for usage and storing of your craft. Deviation from using RS supplied equipment, such as sails and storage solutions, will require consultation with RS Sailing. Failure to do so may affect Warranty claims and Goodwill outcomes. Please keep this manual in a secure place and hand it over to the new owner if you sell the boat.

  • Page 4: Commissioning

    Technical Data Length Overall (LOA) 3.64m 12’0” Beam 1.42m 4’8” Hull Weight 68kg 136lb Reefing Mainsail 5.5m 57sq ft 3 Batten Mainsail 6.5m 68sq ft 2.1m 22sq ft Gennaker 7.0m 73sq ft 3. Commissioning 3.1 Preparation Your RS Feva comes complete with all the components necessary to take the boat sailing.

  • Page 5: Unpacking

    3.2 - Unpacking Having unpacked your RS Feva, you should check that you have all of the items listed below before throwing away any of the packing, as there may be some small items still wrapped. Boat Pack: QUANTITY COMPONENT Hull Lower mast Top mast...
  • Page 6 Customer Fittings Pack: QUANTITY COMPONENT Englefield Clip Plastic Bobble Nylon Spring Hook 20mm block Single Jam Block and Becket 27mm block Handle Tubes Shroud Eye Bolts Penny Washers M8 Nyloc Nuts M8 Dome Nuts Fixings for Spinnaker Tray Shroud Plates Bowsprit...
  • Page 7 Customer Rope Pack: COMPONENT Spinnaker Tray Rear Toe Strap Elastic (Front) Toe Strap Elastic (Rear) Mainsheet Strop Righting Line Righting Line Elastic Daggerboard Retainer Elastic Carry Handles Spinnaker halyard Spinnaker Block ties Mainsheet Spinnaker Sheet Main Halyard Kicker Primary Kicker Cascade Downhaul Boom Strop Jib Sheet...
  • Page 8 S Sail Pack: QUANTITY COMPONENT S Mainsail Club Jib Spinnaker XL Club Sail Pack: QUANTITY COMPONENT XL Mainsail Club Jib Spinnaker XL Race Sail Pack QUANTITY COMPONENT XL Mainsail XL Jib Spinnaker Race Pack...
  • Page 9 DIMENSIONS SCALE BOW TUBE 110mm Bow Tube 110mm Long Spinnaker Pole FEV-SP-908 THIS DRAWING IS THE PROPERTY OF RS SAILING AND MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED OR USED FOR A1737 Internal Seal Hatch Cover – Small Hatches A1737 ANY PURPOSE WITHOUT SPECIFIC WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM RS SAILING.
  • Page 10 DIMENSIONS SCALE AB1788 RS Feva-Tack Bar Tack Bar NEW PART THIS DRAWING IS THE PROPERTY OF RS SAILING AND MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED OR USED FOR AB1798 RS Feva Bow Moulding Pair Tack Bar NEW PART ANY PURPOSE WITHOUT SPECIFIC WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM RS SAILING.
  • Page 11 RIG12+04BLK DIMENSIONS SCALE 480-566 Spacer Tube Ø16.5/Ø8.5-30 Tow Point 480-566 THIS DRAWING IS THE PROPERTY OF RS SAILING AND MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED OR USED FOR 480-371 Under Gunwhale Fairlead, Aero Tow Point AER-HF-901 ANY PURPOSE WITHOUT SPECIFIC WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM RS SAILING.
  • Page 12 M4 x 10 Torx button Hd bolt Spinnaker Tray DIMENSIONS SCALE M4 ‘C’ Washer Spinnaker Tray FIX-W4-001 THIS DRAWING IS THE PROPERTY OF RS SAILING AND MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED OR USED FOR AB.160 Feva Bowsprit Complete 100cm Spinnaker Pole FEV-SP-500 ANY PURPOSE WITHOUT SPECIFIC WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM RS SAILING.

  • Page 13: Toestraps

    3.3 - Toestraps Start by attaching the toestraps to the thwart across the middle of the cockpit. To do this you will need a screwdriver. Make sure you attach the toestraps the right way round. The ends with the webbing loop attach to the thwart.
  • Page 14 3.3 - Toestraps d) You can now attach the two forward toestrap ends and one aft toestrap end to the toestrap retainers using the buckle. e) Find the two elastics (350mm long) in the rope kit. Before attaching the elastic, loosen off the straps, this will make fitting easier.

  • Page 15: Mainsheet Bridle

    3.4 - Mainsheet Bridle a) Fold the rope in half and add the plan bearing block then tie a loop in the middle by doing an overhand knot. b) Pass each end through the rear strop holes on both sides. c) Thread a 4mm rope bobble on the end and tie knot #3.

  • Page 16: Gennaker Pole

    3.6 - Gennaker Pole a) Pull the ropes through the spinnaker pole tube from outside to inside. The pole will be a little tight to get through the bearing because of the launch line. You will need to turn and push the pole until it has fully gone through the bearing.
  • Page 17 3.6 - Gennaker Pole c) Pull the pole out via the launch line. The block should be NO nearer than 50mm from the front spinnaker halyard turning block under tension. If these blocks meet they will destroy each other. You also have to allow for stretch.
  • Page 18 3.6 - Gennaker Pole d) The pole must be 100% out with the tack line knot on the outboard end tight up against the outboard end cup. Tight! Tie the tack line to the front spinnaker halyard turning block using knot #1 and make sure it’s tight. Cut any rope tails off with rope cutter.
  • Page 19 3.6 - Gennaker Pole Spinnaker Halyard To Tack Bar e) Thread the spinnaker halyard through the bush in the foredeck and then through ‘Block 1’ the front halyard turning block going forward around the ‘Block 2’ the launch line block, back through the ‘Cleat 3’ the spinnaker cleat round ‘Block 4’...

  • Page 20: Spinnaker Tray

    3.7 - Spinnaker Tray a) Slide the spinnaker tray under the foredeck from the bow. b) Locate the two M4 x 10 screws and washers. Lift the small tab on the Foredeck and Tack Bar front of the tray. Place the lower tab removed for clarity into the bow and line up the holes with the threaded inserts.

  • Page 21: Shroud Adjuster Plates

    3.8 - Shroud Adjuster Plates a) Find the shroud adjuster plates, eye bolts penny washers, nyloc nuts and done nuts b) Insert the eye bolt assembly into the hole in the gunwale. Add the penny washer and nyloc nut. c) Pass a bar or large screwdriver through the eye bolt making sure it is facing in line with the gunwale.

  • Page 22: Righting Lines

    3.9 - Righting Lines a) Tie righting line between the nut and dome nut on the shroud bolt under the gunwale using knot #1 then thread rope through the eyelet from the inside out. b) 50cm after the recess under the gunwale, tie 8 knot #4’s approximately a fist width apart. c) Tie the shock cord to the end of the righting line using knot #5.

  • Page 23: Rigging The Mast

    3.10 - Rigging the Mast WARNING: Using no standard rigging will invalidate any warranty If you have the Jib and/or Gennaker Pack, please refer to Section 3.4 Rigging the Jib, and Section 3.11 Rigging the Gennaker before stepping the mast in the boat.

  • Page 24: Rigging The Jib

    3.10 - Rigging the Mast REMEMBER If you are rigging the Jib and Gennaker Packs, you need to read Sections 3.11 and 3.12 before stepping the mast 3.11 - Rigging the Jib WARNING: Using no standard rigging will invalidate any warranty To complete this section, you will need: •...
  • Page 25 3.11 - Rigging the Jib c) Tie knot #1 in one end of the jib halyard block tie. d) Thread the other end of the jib halyard block tie through the metal loop at the top of the jib halyard block, pulling the excess through until the block is next to the knot.

  • Page 26: Rigging The Mast For The Gennaker

    3.11 - Rigging the Jib g) Thread the jib halyard through the jib halyard block, and make sure that both ends of the jib halyard are secure at the bottom of the mast. 3.12 - Rigging the mast for the Gennaker Before stepping the mast you will need to complete the following steps: a) Uncoil the gennaker halyard (that is emerging through a hole in the foredeck).

  • Page 27: Stepping The Mast

    3.13 - Stepping the Mast BEFORE PICKING UP THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES The mast-gate pin is already fitted to your Feva. The pin has a locking nut on the bottom to prevent it from The Mast Gate Pin falling out. To close the mechanism: 1) Push the Pin through the gate from above.
  • Page 28 3.13 - Stepping the Mast c) Stand the mast up. The mast foot should slide down the mast well and sit comfortably in the mast cup. The lip on the lower mast collar should be under the foredeck, to enable you to close the mast gate.

  • Page 29: Rigging The Kicker

    3.14 - Rigging the Kicker To rig the kicker, you will need: • x2 20mm blocks • x1 Single Jam Block and Becket • Kicker primary rope - 4mm Evo Compact - 920mm • Kicker cascade rope - 4mm Evo Performance - 2500mm Take the primary rope and using knot #1 attach one end to one of the 20mm •...

  • Page 30: Rigging The Boom

    3.15 - Rigging the Boom To rig the boom, you will need: • The boom • The kicking cascade • The kicker boom strop The standard outhaul will come rigged on the boom, if you have the Race pack, refer to the instructions included within to rig the race outhaul. a) Take the kicker boom strop and tie knot #3 in one end.

  • Page 31: The Daggerboard

    3.15 - Rigging the Boom c) Finally, thread the end back through the eyelet on the boom, in the opposite direction to the other end, and tie knot #3 in the end. 3.16 - The Daggerboard To complete this section, you will need: •...

  • Page 32: The Rudder

    3.17 - The Rudder To complete this section, you will require: • The rudder • The rudder stock • The Tiller • The Tiller retaining screw • The Tiller extension a) Remove the rudder assembly from the foil pack and locate the components. The self-tapping screw is in a small bag, in with the tiller arm.

  • Page 33: Hoisting The Mainsail

    3.18 - Hoisting the Mainsail To complete this section, you will need: • The mainsail (either the Feva S reefing mainsail, or the Feva XL 3-batten mainsail) • The inglefield clips • The mainsheet a) Take the mainsheet and thread one end through the large ratchet block in the center of the boat. Make sure it goes through the correct way so the ratchet works when it is pulled through.
  • Page 34 3.18 - Hoisting the Mainsail d) Thread the mainsheet through the block on the mainsheet bridle. Lead the mainsheet back up to the end of the boom, and thread it through the hole in the center of the block on the boom.
  • Page 35 3.18 - Hoisting the Mainsail e) Unroll the mainsail. Take the end of the main halyard that comes down the mast from the bullseye (not from the cleat), and tie it to the top of the mainsail using knot #1. f) Put the top of the mainsail into the opening at the bottom of the mast track, just above the gooseneck...
  • Page 36 3.18 - Hoisting the Mainsail g) When the mainsail is at the top of the mast, lead the halyard tail that you have been pulling around the outside of the shroud, and pull it forward. Pull the halyard towards the back of the boat, until it locks in the cleat at the top of the mast.
  • Page 37 3.18 - Hoisting the Mainsail The Inglefield Clips stop the halyard flopping around when the mainsail is hoisted. To lower the mainsail, release the Kicker, outhaul and downhaul and unclip the two clips, pull the halyard out of the cleat at the top of the mast, and pull the mainsail down.
  • Page 38 3.18 - Hoisting the Mainsail n) Take the downhaul rope and tie a large knot #3 in one end. o) Thread the other end of the downhaul up through the gooseneck mast collar, on the port-hand side of the mast. p) Pass the end of the downhaul through the bottom eyelet in the tack of the mainsail, and through the cleat on the...

  • Page 39: Hoisting The Jib

    3.19 - Hoisting the Jib a) Unroll the jib. Take the tail of rope sewn into the tack of the jib, and pass it through the metal loop on the tack bar. b) Pass the tail through the webbing loop sewn onto the tack of the jib. c) Pull the rope taut, and tie it off using two or three half hitches.
  • Page 40 3.19 - Hoisting the Jib d) Tie one end of the jib halyard onto the loop of rope sewn into the head of the jib, using knot #1 Note: Instead of a rope loop, the RS Feva Race Jib has a metal eye at the head. Tie the jib halyard to this in the same way.
  • Page 41 3.19 - Hoisting the Jib f) To attach the jib sheet, either: Thread the jib sheet through the middle of the three holes on the clew plate. Pull the sheet through until there is an equal amount either side of the sail. Tie a figure-of-eight knot in the jib sheet on either side of the clew plate g) Take one of the jib sheet ends and pass it...

  • Page 42: Rigging The Gennaker

    3.20 - Rigging the Gennaker TOP TIP Make sure that the gennaker halyard and the downhaul line are on opposite sides of the mast. f) Unroll the gennaker. Take the tack line that emerges from the end of the bowsprit and tie it to the tack of the gennaker, using knot #2.
  • Page 43 3.20 - Rigging the Gennaker h) Untie the gennaker downhaul line, taking care not to let go of it, as it will disappear up the gennaker chute! With the gennaker on the port-hand side of the boat, pass the end of the gennaker downhaul through the small eyelet in the center of the gennaker, from the inside to outside.
  • Page 44 3.20 - Rigging the Gennaker k) Locate the gennaker block tie and tie knot #3 in one end. Thread the other end through the shroud eye- bolt and the 30mm gennaker block, then thread the end back through the eye-bolt and pull tight and finish off by tying another knot #3. Adjust so the block is as close to the eye-bolt as possible.

  • Page 45: Completion

    3.21 - Completion Now you are almost ready to go Feva sailing. All that is left to do is: • Fit the rudder to the back of the boat • Tidy the halyards away • Check that all knots and shackles are tied securely a) To fit the rudder, simply line up the pins with the fitting on the back of the boat and push down until the retaining clip ‘clicks’...

  • Page 46: Sailing Hints

    Rigging Guide 4. Sailing Hints PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 47: Introduction

    4.1 - Introduction The RS Feva is a very rewarding boat to sail – to fully appreciate its handling, you should be comfortable with the basic techniques of sailing small boats. If you lack confidence or feel that a refresher is in order, there are many approved sailing schools which use the RS Feva. See www.rya.org.uk for more information, or follow the link from www.rssailing.com to find your local RS Academy.

  • Page 48: Sailing Close-Hauled And Tacking

    4.3 - Leaving the Beach As soon the water is deep enough, make sure that you lower the rudder blade fully by pulling hard on the rudder downhaul. You will know it is fully down if you feel a gentle “thud” as the front face of the blade hits the front face of the stock.

  • Page 49: Sailing Downwind And Gybing

    4.5 - Sailing Downwind and Gybing When sailing downwind, both sails should be let out as far as possible. Single- handed sailors should adopt a relaxing, reclined pose astride the thwart area, leaning back against the side deck. To gybe, pull the tiller towards you and, as the boat starts to turn, step across the cockpit facing forward.
  • Page 50 4.6 - Using the Gennaker Gybing with the gennaker is fairly straightforward. Like the jib, it should be pulled across at the same time as the mainsail comes across. As soon as it has been pulled in and filled with wind, it should again be immediately eased for maximum efficiency and speed. If sailing singlehanded, the mainsheet should be trapped between the fingers and tiller extension, and the helm should hold the gennaker sheet at all times.

  • Page 51: Reefing

    4.7 - Reefing Reefing reduces the sail area, and is an effective and essential way to continue sailing in winds that would otherwise keep the less experienced or younger sailors ashore. There are two ways to reef a RS Feva S mainsail: HINT The jib is very effective in strong winds because the majority of its area is low down so it helps with balance.
  • Page 52 4.7 - Reefing d) Re-attach the clew of the mainsail to the clew outhaul hook, and re-tension the outhaul. e) Re-attach the kicking cascade and tension to suit. The number of turns of themast will determine the degree to which you reduce the power in the rig.
  • Page 53 4.7 - Reefing Slab Reefing This method of reefing is applicable to the RS Feva S mainsail, when sailed with the jib. a) Release the downhaul line out of the cleat. b) Ease the kicking cascade. c) Ease the main halyard about 7 centimetres.
  • Page 54 4.7 - Reefing d) Pull the mainsail down until the line of reefing eyes in the sail are level with the boom. Roll up the excess mainsail and tie it to the boom. We recommend using a loop of elastic attached to a plastic hook. f) Re-apply tension to the main halyard, as required.
  • Page 55 4.7 - Reefing g) Re-apply tension to the kicking cascade. h) Re-thread the mainsail downhaul line, and cleat it on the mast. Sailing in strong winds can be great fun, so become familiar with the reefing systems and get back out there!

  • Page 56: Race Upgrades

    Rigging Guide 5. Race Upgrades PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 57: Adjustable Mainsheet Bridle

    5.1 - Adjustable Mainsheet Bridle • Unthread your mainsheet completely. • Remove existing mainsheet bridle by undoing knots under the gunwhale at the stern of the boat. • Take one end of the new bridle and thread through the rear gunwhale hole. •...

  • Page 58: Boom Outhaul System

    5.2 - Boom Outhaul System • Remove the existing outhaul system completely. • Using the thin line already attached, tie the 20mm block above the boom collar on the mast, using a reef knot. • Thread the 4mm line (loop end first) through the ‘D’ eye at the end of the boom.
  • Page 59 5.2 - Boom Outhaul System • Pass the end forward through the boom cleat. • Pass the end through the block which was tied to the mast. • Make a loop in the tail using a bowline.
  • Page 60 5.3 - Mainsheet Clew Strap • Thread the strap through the clew (fluffy side down) to the midpoint of the strap. • Pull the clew close to the boom and wrap the double sided end around it. Ensure it is inside all lines and reasonably tight. •...
  • Page 61 5.4 - Downhaul System • Remove the existing downhaul system. • Untie the reef knot in the loop and re-tie around the mast, passing through the kicker lacing eye. Ensure all items stay attached! • Take the top block (with hook) and connect to the downhaul cringle at the tack of the mainsail.

  • Page 62: Jib Halyard Purchase

    5.5 - Jib Halyard Purchase • Hoist your jib all the way to the top. • Thread the halyard through the sheave and tie a double overhand knot so sheave is level with rivet as shown in picture. • Lead the halyard down to the horn cleat. Cleat off and tie a double overhand knot to make a loop, leading the halyard back under the horn cleat.
  • Page 63 5.5 - Jib Halyard Purchase • Lead the halyard up and around the sheave and back down through the bottom loop.
  • Page 64 5.5 - Jib Halyard Purchase • Finally lead the halyard back up and through the centre of the sheave. Apply tension and tie off either on the cleat or below the sheave.

  • Page 65: Maintenance

    Rigging Guide 6. Maintenance PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 66: Boat Care

    6.1 Boat Care The RS Feva is made using Comptec PE3, a three-layer polyethylene construction. This is stiff and light, but will dent if subjected to point loading. The boat should be supported ashore on an approved RS trolley, as the hull may distort if not supported properly. For long-term storage, it is better to support the boat on a rack, in slings, or another type of support that spreads the weight and avoids point loads.

  • Page 67: Foil Care

    6.1 Foil Care RS Sailing foils are manufactured from anodised Aluminium extrusions with injection moulded glass reinforced Nylon ends. Lower mouldings are bonded in with polyurethane adhesive sealant. Upper mouldings are riveted or screwed in. The upper daggerboard moulding shows the type of boat.

  • Page 68: Fixtures & Fittings

    6.5 Fixtures and Fittings All of the fixtures and fittings have been designed for a specific purpose in the boat. These items may break when placed under any unnecessary load, or when used for a different function to their intended purpose. To ensure optimum performance, wash the fixtures and fittings with fresh water regularly, checking shackles, bolts, etc. for tightness.

  • Page 69: Warranty

    6. Warranty claims shall be made to RS Sailing as soon as practicable and, in any event, within 28 days upon discovery of a defect. No repairs under warranty are to be undertaken without written approval of RS Sailing.
  • Page 70 8 - Knots Knot #1 Knot #2 Knot #3 Knot #4 Knot #5 Knot #6 Knot #1 - Knot on knot Knot #2 - Bowline...
  • Page 71 7 - Knots Knot #3 - Figure of eight Knot #4 - Overhand knot Knot #5 - Double sheet bend Knot #6 - Cow hitch...

  • Page 72: Glossary

    9 - Glossary At the back Anchor Line Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat Astern Behind the boat Asymmetric Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow Back To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of the sail Bailer A bucket or other container used for bailing water Batten...
  • Page 73 8 - Glossary Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction Capsize...
  • Page 74 8 - Glossary Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing Foils The daggerboard and the rudder Foot The bottom edge of a sail Fore...
  • Page 75 8 - Glossary ‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from, causing the sails to flap ‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib Heel A boat ‘heels’...
  • Page 76 8 - Glossary Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west. They help you measure position and distance on a chart. Leech The back edge of the sail Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the wind is blowing Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind...
  • Page 77 8 - Glossary Mast Lower Section The bottom section of a two-piece mast Mast Step The fitting on the deck that the mast fits into Mast Top Section The top section of a two-piece mast Meteorology The study of weather forecasting Moor To tie the boat to a fixed object Mylar...
  • Page 78 8 - Glossary Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to trail behind a vehicle Rowlocks U shaped fittings that fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in...
  • Page 79 8 - Glossary Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents Starboard.
  • Page 80 8 - Glossary ‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be in motion Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing...

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