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RS SAILING 500 Rigging Manual

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Rigging Manual V3
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER

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  • Page 1 Rigging Manual V3 PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    Contents 1. Introduction ............1 2. Preparation ............2 - 22 2.1 - Preparation ..............3 2.2 - Unpacking ..............3 2.3 - Pack contents ............4 - 5 2.4 - Adding the shroud adjusters........6 2.5 - Adding the spinnaker ratchets ........6 - 7 2.6 - Adding the spinnaker chute bar .........

  • Page 3: Introduction

    The RS 500 is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum enjoyment from your RS 500, in a safe manner. It contains details of the craft, the equipment supplied or fitted, its systems, and information on its safe operation and maintenance.

  • Page 4: Preparation

    2. Preparation Before rigging your boat for the first time there are several components which must be added. Please allow an additional 3 hours to do this before sailing. Once added, the fittings in this section can be left on the boat.

  • Page 5: Unpacking

    – you may damage the contents! Having unpacked your RS 500 you should check that you have all the items listed in section 2.3 before throwing away any of the packing as there may be some small items...

  • Page 6: Pack Contents

    2.3a - Pack contents QUANTITY COMPONENT shroud verniers shroud verniers Spinnaker Sheet Ratchet clam cleat (rig tension) forged shackle narrow forged shackle standard 22mm ball bearing block 29mm Carbo block (swivel head) 57mm Ratchet block plastic hook 40mm mainsheet block with rope attached rudder blade rudder stock and...
  • Page 7 2.3b - Rope pack contents QUANTITY COMPONENT spinnaker ratchet bungy rig tension long rig tension short kicker control line trapeze elastic bungy spinnaker chute bungy centre board retainer line centre board handle toestrap bungy spinnaker halyard take up block retainer rudder downhaul short jib sheet block tie mainsheet...

  • Page 8: Adding The Shroud Adjusters

    2.4 - Adding the shroud adjusters Locate the four shroud adjusters in the fittings pack and remove the clevis pins and rings. Slide two shroud adjusters into place on each shroud U-bolt and reattach the pin in the top position. The double adjuster is located aft for the cap shrouds and the single adjuster is forward for the lowers.

  • Page 9: Rig Tension

    2.5 - Adding the spinnaker ratchets Attach the spinnaker ractchet to the toe strap plates located behind the shoud points on each side of the boat. unsing a double fisherman’s knot or other secure knot: https://www.animatedknots.com/ double-fishermans-bend-knot WARNING! Failure to inspect and correct knots can cause the line to slip suddenly when load is applied.
  • Page 10 2.7 - Rig tension Secure the block and shackle to the bow tack plate. Tie off one end of the short rope to Pass the other end of the short the shackle using knot rope through the other block and tie off on the Clamcleat with knot # Tie off the long piece of rope onto the bottom of the clam cleat...

  • Page 11: Kicker

    2.7 - Rig tension Take the tail of the rope and tie knot #3 about 50mm from the end. 700mm Adjust the length of the purchase to 700mm bearing surface to bearing surface. 2.8 - Kicker Locate the kicker, the three kicker blocks and shackle. These items may be supplied already attached to the boat.
  • Page 12 2.8 - Kicker Pass the short end of the Pass the long end of the rope through block A and rope through block B and attach to the top of the down to the mast step and block B using knot through block C.

  • Page 13: Trapeze Elastic

    2.9 - Trapeze elastic Find the trapeze elastic in the rope kit and tie knot #2 with a 60mm loop in the end and pull tight. Thread the other end of the elastic as shown. knot #2 with a 60mm loop in the end. It does not matter if the bungy is not under tension - i.e.
  • Page 14 2.10 - Spinnaker pole Thread the launch line through the cheek block on the bow. Fully launch the pole so the rope hole in the pole is adjacent to the cheek block. With knot #1, tie the block onto the end of the launch line. 30mm block 30mm block With the block pulled hard towards the mast step...

  • Page 15: Spinnaker Chute Elastic

    2.11 - Spinnaker chute elastic Find the spinnaker chute elastic in the rope kit. Thread the elastic through the spinnaker halyard downhaul block base on the port side. knot #3 in each end of the elastic. Push both ends of the elastic through the metal cringle on the rear of the spinnaker chute from the inside out.

  • Page 16: Centreboard Retainer

    2.12 - Spinnaker ratchet elastic Pull the elastic tight and tie the other end knot the shroud U-bolt using Repeat on the other side of the boat. Cut and seal the excess elastic so bungee tail is 12-15mm 2.13 - Centreboard retainer Find the retainer rope in the rope pack and the plastic hook from the fittings pack.

  • Page 17: Centreboard Handle

    2.14 - Centreboard handle Find the centreboard handle in the rope kit. Pass one end of the handle through the top hole in the centreboard. Pull the rope through the board and make the lengths equal. knot #4 Place the two ends together, tie the end.
  • Page 18 2.15 - Adding the toe straps Slide the webbing loop at the front end of the toestrap over it. Locate the loop in the chosen postion. Position the the toestrap retainer back into position and replace all the screws. You can now attach the aft end of the toestraps to the toestrap retainer using the buckle.

  • Page 19: Toe Strap Elastic (Rear)

    2.16 - Toe strap elastic (rear) Find the toe elastic in the rope kit Thread one end through the second pocket from the aft end of the toestrap. Thread the other end through the 2nd Toestrap using the same pocket. knot Tie both ends together with Tails should be 12-15 mm.
  • Page 20 2.17 - Spinnaker halyard take up Tie the small block onto the rear toestrap elastic between the two toestraps. #3 knot To do this you should tie a in one end of the short rope. Pass the other end through the eye on the block, around the back of the toe strap elastic and back through knot #3.

  • Page 21: Mainsheet Rear Strop

    2.18 - Mainsheet rear strop Find the mainsheet strop in the pack. Remove one of the screws and loosen the other on the toe strap plates on the rear quarters of the boat. Slide the loop at each end of the mainsheet strop under the plates.

  • Page 22: Rudder

    2.19 - Rudder #4 knot Tie a in one end of the rudder downhaul rope. Pass the other end of the rope up through the hole in the front of the rudder. Slide the rudder into the stock making sure to feed the rope over the small roller fitted in the stock, and out under the tiller.
  • Page 23 2.19 - Rudder Tie the tie the rudder downhaul block to the end of the rudder downhaul (the rope you fed through the rudder stock) using knot knot Tie one end of the rudder downhaul control line onto the cleat on the tiller with Pass the other end of the control line through the block (added in step f) and back through the cleat on the tiller.

  • Page 24: Rigging The Mast

    3. Rigging the mast PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 25: Fitting The Spreaders To The Mast

    3.1 - Fitting the spreaders to the mast It is worth taking time over this part to ensure it is correctly completed. Improperly fitted spreaders will result in strange sailing characteristics and may even result in failure of the mast. These settings are a safe starting point. More specific fine tuning is available from the RS class association.

  • Page 26: Spreaders

    The end cap can also be rotated so that the shroud can be positioned at either the forward or aft position of the spreader end (see diagram above). For the RS 500 the end cap should hold the shroud in the aft position.

  • Page 27: Trapeze Lines

    3.3 - Trapeze lines Hook the trapeze line t-terminals into the upper set of holes near the top of the mast. 3.4 - Stepping the mast REMEMBER Check that both ends of the main halyard, jib halyard and spinnaker halyard are tied off at the bottom end of the mast so they are within easy reach when the mast is stepped.
  • Page 28 It is easier to step the mast with two people, however it can be done single-handed. Both methods are shown here. 3.4a - Stepping the mast singlehanded If the wind is blowing, there will be a lot of pressure on the top of the mast making it wave around.
  • Page 29 3.4b - Stepping the mast with two people This is a much easier way of stepping the mast, especially if it is windy at all. Ensure the mast step area is free from any blocks or rope. Lay the mast along the boat with the foot near the bow. Attach the shrouds to the shroud plates, using the upper most hole.

  • Page 30: Final Rig Adjustments

    3.5 - Final rig adjustments Attach the lower shrouds to the mast. Lower the main shrouds in the shroud adjusters to hole 7, this is a good starting point . Attach the lower shrouds to the forward set of chain points so they are just slack. Pull on the rig tension cascade firmly enough so that the rigging is taught.

  • Page 31: Rigging The Spinnaker Halyard

    3.6 - Rigging the spinnaker halyard When the spinnaker halyard it is pulled it will hoist the spinnaker but also pull the bowsprit out too. This achieved by the spinnaker halyard running through a block tied to the bowsprit launch line. Under the spinnaker sock at the bow you will find the bowsprit outhaul...

  • Page 32: Rigging The Boom

    3.6 - Rigging the spinnaker halyard The halyard then runs over the top of the centreboard, through the take-up block (added in section 2.14e) and through the spinnaker drop block on the other side of the centreboard case, this time being threaded through from back to front so the tail will then go up the spinnaker chute.

  • Page 33: Rigging The Jib

    3.7 - Rigging the boom Connect the upper end of the gnav bar to the bracket on the mast above the gooseneck. It is vital that the gnav toggle is inserted as shown above. Failure to do so will result in damage to the strut assembly. Tie the gnav line to the kicker cascade in the boat which you added in step 2.6.
  • Page 34 3.8 - Rigging the jib Attach the head of the jib to the jib halyard. At the base of the mast, pull the jib up using the halyard. When the halyard is pulled all the way up, cleat it in the cleat just above the mast foot.
  • Page 35 3.8 - Rigging the jib knot #3 in one end of the jib sheet and pass it through the p-clip located between the jib fairlead and jib cleat. Pass the other end through the clew of the jib and back through the fairlead and jib cleat.

  • Page 36: Rigging The Mainsheet

    3.9 - Rigging the mainsheet To complete this section, you will need: • The mainsail (either S or XL). • The mainsheet. knot #4 in one end of the mainsheet and pass it through the middle of the block at the end of the boom.

  • Page 37: Hoisting The Mainsail

    3.9 - Rigging the mainsheet Finally, thread the mainsheet through the ratchet block on the boom (the block is an automatic ratchet block so pull on both ends of the rope to engage it and check you have threaded it the correct way, using the arrow for guidance). Tie a #3 knot in the end.
  • Page 38 3.10 - Hoisting the mainsail Put the top of the main sail into the opening in the mast track, just above the gooseneck mast collar, from the starboard side of the boat. Holding the main sail in line with the mast, pull on the end of the main halyard.
  • Page 39 3.10 - Hoisting the mainsail Pass the end of the outhaul rope through the clew of the main sail and clip it on the end of the boom Ensure that the main halyard rope is in the cleat and pull the main sail to the top.

  • Page 40: Mainsail Tack Strap

    3.11 - Mainsail tack strap This strap helps to keep the tack of the mainsail in place. Put the strap through the tack eye of the mainsail, then strap it onto the mast. Make sure the main halyard goes under the strap to prevent it from uncleating the halyard.

  • Page 41: Rigging The Spinnaker

    3.13 - Rigging the spinnaker To complete this section, you will need: • 1 x RS 500 spinnaker. • 1 x spinnaker sheet. Unpack the spinnaker. Tie the tack of the spinnaker to the ‘tack line’ that emerges from the end of the bowsprit.
  • Page 42 3.13 - Rigging the spinnaker Run the downhaul up the sail and pass the end through the ring in middle of the sail from bottom of sail towards the top of the sail. Run the downhaul line up the sail and tie it off on the upper patch (onto the cross of webbing) with knot Note:...

  • Page 43: Rigging The Spinnaker

    3.13 - Rigging the spinnaker Still with the spinnaker on the starboard side, thread one end of the spinnaker sheet through the block by the shroud point on the starboard side, in the direction of the arrow. Take the other end of the spinnaker sheet and pass it around the forestay and into the block on the other side.

  • Page 44: Completion

    4. Completion PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 45: Completion

    4 - Completion Now you are almost ready to go 500 sailing. All that is left to do is: • Fit the rudder to the back of the boat. • Tidy the halyards away. To fit the rudder, simply line up the pins with the fitting on the back of the boat and push down until the retaining clip ‘clicks’...

  • Page 46: Sailing Hints

    5. Sailing Hints PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 47: Introduction

    5.1 - Introduction The RS 500 is a very rewarding boat to sail – to fully appreciate its handling, you should be comfortable with the basic techniques of sailing small boats. If you lack confidence or feel that a refresher is in order, there are many approved sailing schools which can offer refresher courses in trapeze and asymmetric technique.

  • Page 48: Sailing Close Hauled And Tacking

    5.4 - Sailing Close-Hauled and Tacking When sailing close-hauled, or as close as possible to the wind, it is important to get the boom as near as possible to the centreline, especially when sailing the with the mainsail and jib. The kicking strap should be firmly tensioned for upwind work. The jib sheet should be pulled in fairly hard when sailing upwind –...
  • Page 49 5.6 - Using the Gennaker The halyard pulls the pole out at the same time, and so as the halyard comes to a stop when hoisted all is ready to go. The crew should now pull gently on the sheet, whilst the boat is luffed up gently and the spinnaker will soon fill.

  • Page 50: Maintenance

    6. Maintenance PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 51: Hull Care

    6.1 - Hull care The RS 500 is made of FRP (fibre reinforced plastic), a fibre glass cloth and vinylester resin. This is stiff and light, but will dent if subjected to point loading. The boat should be supported ashore on a recognised RS trolley, as the hull may distort if not supported properly.

  • Page 52: Foil Care

    6.1 - Hull care Hull damage falls into three categories: • SERIOUS – large hole, split, crack or worse. Don’t be too distressed! Get the remnants back to RS Racing – most problems can be repaired. • MEDIUM – small hole or split. If this occurs during an event, sailing can often be continued as long as leaking can be prevented by drying the area and applying strong adhesive tape.

  • Page 53: Sail Care

    6.4 - Sail care Good racing sails today are expensive items, yet it is surprising how many people are prepared to neglect or mistreat them. The rules for correct sail care are easy and simple to implement. a) The jib and mainsail should be stored dry, out of direct sunlight when not in use (ultra-violet light damages sailcloth), and rolled: •...

  • Page 54: Knots

    7 - Knots Knot #1 Knot #2 Knot #3 Knot #4 Knot #5 Knot #6 Knot #1 - Knot on knot Knot #2 - Bowline...
  • Page 55 7 - Knots Knot #3 - Figure of eight Knot #4 - Overhand knot Knot #5 - Double sheet bend Knot #6 - Cow hitch...

  • Page 56: Warranty

    8 - Warranty This warranty is given in addition to all rights given by statute or otherwise. LDC Racing Sailboats warrants all boats and component parts manufactured by it to be free from defects in materials and workmanship under normal use and circumstances, and the exercise of prudent seamanship, for a period of twelve (12) months from the date of \ commissioning by the original owner.

  • Page 57: Glossary

    9 - Glossary At the back Anchor Line Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat Astern Behind the boat Asymmetric Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow Back To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of the sail Bailer A bucket or other container used for bailing water Batten...
  • Page 58 9 - Glossary Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction Capsize...
  • Page 59 9 - Glossary Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing Foils The daggerboard and the rudder Foot The bottom edge of a sail Fore...
  • Page 60 9 - Glossary ‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from, causing the sails to flap ‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib Heel A boat ‘heels’...
  • Page 61 9 - Glossary Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west. They help you measure position and distance on a chart. Leech The back edge of the sail Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the wind is blowing Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind...
  • Page 62 9 - Glossary Mast Lower Section The bottom section of a two-piece mast Mast Step The fitting on the deck that the mast fits into Mast Top Section The top section of a two-piece mast Meteorology The study of weather forecasting Moor To tie the boat to a fixed object Mylar...
  • Page 63 9 - Glossary Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to trail behind a vehicle Rowlocks U shaped fittings that fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in...
  • Page 64 9 - Glossary Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents Starboard.

  • Page 65: Glossary

    9 - Glossary ‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be in motion Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing...

This manual is also suitable for:

Rs 500

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