DeWalt DCS578 Instruction Manual page 38

ENglIsH
Bevel Angle Adjustment (Fig. A, K)
The full range of the bevel adjustment is from 0° to 57°. The
quadrant is graduated in increments of 1°. On the front of the
saw is a bevel angle adjustment mechanism consisting of a
calibrated quadrant and a bevel adjustment lever
To set the saw for a bevel cut
1. Loosen (counterclockwise) the bevel adjustment
lever and tilt shoe (
10
aligning the pointer with the desired angle mark.
2. Retighten lever firmly (clockwise).
Shoe Adjustment for 90°Cuts (Fig. K, L)
If additional adjustment is needed:
1. Adjust the saw to 0° bevel.
2. Retract the lower blade guard. Place the saw on
blade side.
3. Loosen bevel adjustment lever (
a square against the blade and shoe to adjust the
90° setting.
4. Turn the calibration screw
at the proper angle.
5. Confirm the accuracy of the setting by checking the
squareness of an actual cut on a scrap piece of material.
Kerf Indicator (Fig. M)
The front of the saw shoe has a kerf indicator
and bevel cutting. This indicator enables you to guide the
saw along cutting lines penciled on the material being cut.
The kerf indicator lines up with the left (inner) side of the saw
blade, which makes the slot or "kerf" cut by the moving blade
fall to the right of the indicator. Guide along the penciled
cutting line so that the kerf falls into the waste or surplus
material.
Workpiece Support (Fig. M–O)

WARNING: It is important to support the work properly
and to hold the saw firmly to prevent loss of control
which could cause personal injury. Figure G illustrates
proper hand support of the saw. Maintain a firm grip
with both hands on the saw and position your body
and arm to allow you to resist kickback if it occurs.
ALWAYS TURN OFF TOOL AND REMOVE BATTERY
BEFORE MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS!
Figure G shows proper sawing position. Note that hands are
kept away from cutting area. To avoid kickback, DO support
board or panel NEAR the cut (Fig. M). DON'T support board
or panel away from the cut (Fig. M).
Place the work with its "good" side – the one on which
appearance is most important – down. The saw cuts upward,
so any splintering will be on the work face that is up when
you cut it.
Cutting (Fig. N)
Place the wider portion of the saw shoe on that part of the
workpiece which is solidly supported, not on the section
that will fall off when the cut is made. As an example,
Figure N illustrates the RIGHT way to cut off the end of a
board. Always clamp work. Don't try to hold short pieces
36
10
, Fig. A) to the desired angle by
5
10 , Fig. K). Place
17 so that the shoe will stop
for vertical
9
by hand! (Figure O) Remember to support cantilevered and
overhanging material. Use caution when sawing material
from below.
Be sure saw is up to full speed before blade contacts material
to be cut. Starting saw with blade against material to be
.
cut or pushed forward into kerf can result in kickback. Push
the saw forward at a speed which allows the blade to cut
without laboring.
Hardness and toughness can vary even in the same piece of
material, and knotty or damp sections can put a heavy load
on the saw. When this happens, push the saw more slowly,
but hard enough to keep working without much decrease
in speed. Forcing the saw can cause rough cuts, inaccuracy,
kickback, and over-heating of the motor.
Should your cut begin to go off the line, don't try to force
it back on. Release the trigger switch and allow blade to
come to a complete stop. Then you can withdraw the saw,
sight anew, and start a new cut slightly inside the wrong
one. Withdraw the saw if you must shift the cut. Forcing
a correction inside the cut can stall the saw and lead
to kickback.
IF SAW STALLS, RELEASE THE TRIGGER SWITCH AND
BACK THE SAW UNTIL IT IS LOOSE. BE SURE BLADE IS
STRAIGHT IN THE CUT AND CLEAR OF THE CUTTING EDGE
BEFORE RESTARTING.
As you finish a cut, release the trigger switch and allow the
blade to stop before lifting the saw from the work. As you
lift the saw, the spring-tensioned lower blade guard will
automatically close under the blade. Remember the blade
is exposed until this occurs. Never reach under the work for
any reason. When you have to retract the lower blade guard
manually (as is necessary for starting pocket cuts), always use
the retracting lever.

WARNING: When cutting thin strips, be careful to
ensure that small cutoff pieces don't hang up on the
inside of the lower blade guard.
Ripping (Fig. O)
Ripping is the process of cutting wider boards into narrower
strips – cutting grain lengthwise. Hand guiding is more
difficult for this type of sawing and the use of a D
fence is recommended.
Pocket Cutting (Fig. P)

WARNING: Never tie the lower blade guard in a raised
position. Never move the saw backwards when pocket
cutting. This may cause the saw to raise up off the work
surface, which could cause injury.
A pocket cut is one that is made in a floor, wall or other
flat surface.
1. Adjust the saw shoe so the blade cuts at desired depth.
2. Tilt the saw forward and rest front of the shoe on material
to be cut.
3. Using the lower blade guard retracting lever, retract the
lower blade guard to an upward position. Lower the
rear of the shoe until the blade teeth almost touch the
cutting line.
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