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and other factors such as the fuel type, the system
set-up and the pump flow speed. Finding the right
setting(s) will be a matter of trial and error as well as
personal preference. For example the Thermostat
Control, can sometimes be used for simultaneous
control of both the water temperature and the burn
rate of a mineral fuel load by shutting of both the
Secondary Air and the Primary Air.
It is worth noting that this control does not 'turn off'
the hot water production completely and that your
system design must therefore include a means to
dissipate any surplus heat. See page 20
Thermostat Control
BURNING WOOD LOGS
Important: Try not to exceed the recommended
log length. This size allows approximately 25mm
(1") of space at either end of the log to prevent
cold water spots inside the boiler.
Remember, these instructions are an initial guideline
to help you get started. As you begin to gain
experience of your stove and choice of fuel(s), as well
as your flue system, you will be able to adjust these
procedures and control settings to your personal
preference.
As previously stated wood burns best on a bed of its
own embers which also forms a barrier to reflect heat
and protect the fire grate from being damaged. You
can therefore leave a bed of ash in place to create a
layer of approximately 25mm (1"), only occasionally
removing the surplus ash from the grate. Ash should
still be regularly removed from the ash pan – never let
Avoid abutting the logs against the
boiler sides which creates cold water spots
the ash pan get over-filled. Once you have lived with
your stove for a while you'll soon get to know how
often you should do this.
Ensure that there is a gap of approximately 25mm
(1") between both ends of the logs and the boiler
sides. Log ends placed against the boiler sides restrict
combustion and can create unwanted cold spots in
both the log and the water. As the end grain of the
wood produces more of the remaining moisture and
gases, whenever possible point the log ends away
from the glass to help keep the glass clean.
Fuel Load Ideally the logs should be approximately
275mm (11") long. A typical fuel load should weigh
2.5 kg (5lb 8oz) with a maximum load of 3.6kg (8lb).
To get the best out of your stove, ideally you will need
three different thicknesses of wood log as you build
the fire through each lighting phase:
1 Kindling This is generally finely chopped wood,
approximately 5 to 10mm thick (1/4" to 1/2") from
your supply of logs. Alternatively use dried twigs or
small branches which have also been fully seasoned.
Do not use paper (except as a last resort) as its ash
will create a film over the wood ash and prevent the
it from working with the log to produce a good fire.
This is most noticeable if magazine paper is used.
2 Lighting Logs These are slightly bigger diameter
logs, approximately 25 to 50mm (1" to 2")
3 Refuelling Logs These should be
approximately 75 to 100mm thick (3" to 4"). Bigger
logs should be split down to this size
LIGHTING A WOOD FIRE
The main difference between smoke and flame is
temperature, so when lighting a fire you need to get
the temperature in the fire chamber as high as
possible as quickly as possible. This is also critical in
creating a good 'draw' within the flue system,
especially when it is particularly cold outside.
When flue gas temperatures are below 120°C,
creosote tars form within the gases and the fire will be
smoky and burn with a dull orange flame. Burning the
stove like this for a sustained period will create
unnecessary smoke and is not good for the flue.
13
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