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Combat Vac-U-Gearing
1:144 Semi-Scale Model RC Warship Combat Gearing-Class Destroyer Hull Kit
Manufactured by Vac-U-Boat 1259 Humphries Rd. Conyers, GA 30012 philpace@vac-u-boat.com
The Gearing Class was a series of 98 destroyers built for
the U.S. Navy during and shortly after World War II.
While no RC Warship Combat kit is "easy to build or inexpensive", this "Beginner
Class" kit will get you started in this fascinating hobby and not only give you an
understanding of construction, control and weapon systems, but will make an
effective addition to any fleet in battling against your buddies!
This Combat Vac-U-Gearing Hull Kit Features: Tough high-impact
polystyrene hull with polyurethane-bonded sub-deck and carbon-fiber-reinforced
hull-ribs & sub-deck cross-members. The sub-deck hatch openings and the hull's
pre-formed penetrable area panels can be removed with a hobby knife or box
cutter. Clear hatch lids & hatch tape waterproof the hull. The deck supports
realistic details and can house a forward-firing 50-round cannon or mounted as a
stern gun (not included). The rudder kit includes twin 1-1/8 square inch rudders
(Total 2.25 square inches.) cast on
brackets, rudder arms, stainless steel pushrods, and e-z connectors servo.
A mini servo is included for the rudders. Servo models will vary according to
availability. The twin drive kit includes two "365" motors direct-driving counter-
rotating precision stainless steel shafts supported by Oilite
tubes with brass couplings, injection-molded copper colored polyethylene props, 6-
32 threaded drive dogs, and prop nuts.
This Gearing-Class Destroyer is a 1.5 unit ship under the rules of the
International Radio Controlled Warship Combat Club. It can be equipped with a
"1/2 unit bilge pump" and a 50 round cannon (Not included).
brass shafts with a self-aligning rudder
© 2020 Philip Pace dba Vac-U-Boat™
™
®
bushings in brass stern
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Summary of Contents for Vac-U-Boat Combat Vac-U-Gearing
- Page 1 ™ 1:144 Semi-Scale Model RC Warship Combat Gearing-Class Destroyer Hull Kit Manufactured by Vac-U-Boat 1259 Humphries Rd. Conyers, GA 30012 philpace@vac-u-boat.com The Gearing Class was a series of 98 destroyers built for the U.S. Navy during and shortly after World War II.
- Page 2 Now for the Warnings! Read all of the instructions! Review and understand each step, and the one after, as you build your boat. Don’t rush. Good work takes time. This is not a toy! I know. It LOOKS like a toy, but it isn’t. Toys are generally safe for small children.
- Page 3 KIT CONTENTS Hull & Sub-Deck joined with openings reinforced with carbon fiber rod. Top view and bottom view. Pre-Trimmed Deck 2nd Deck & Deck Components Boat Stand and Internal Electronics Tray. Internal Armor, Hatch Covers & Balsa Skin Cutting Template. Hull Hardware Kit with stainless steel deck screws, plastic &...
- Page 4 INSTRUCTIONS We are ready to get started building this combat gearing hull kit. Follow the photos and captions to assemble your boat. Read through the instructions before building. Assemble the necessary tools and adhesives on a clean workbench or table. Keep paper towels handy to catch spills. Don’t forget the safety glasses! To build this kit you will need: A variable-speed drill.
- Page 5 Use a 3/16” drill to round the corners by drilling next to the marked line at each corner. Do this for all 4 openings. Score along an opening, lightly the first time and with a little more pressure the 2nd or 3rd time. If you knife falls through the slit, tilt it sideways to pull it free.
- Page 6 Push the side panel inward causing it to separate at the bottom and remove it. Repeat 13 more times. Mark the upper side of the hull at the center of the front two sub-deck cross-members to help locate the deck screw holes. Set the deck on the sub-deck.
- Page 7 Insert the #6 x 3/8 inch Phillips pan head screws. Keep them straight as they thread into the sub-deck until just snug. Don’t over tighten. Next time, start them by hand and lightly snug with screwdriver. Use a 3/16 inch drill to drill into the center of the rudder inset at the stern of the hull.
- Page 8 The 2nd deck sits on top of the deckhouse. It has a raised outline. Mark the bottom of the outline with a pencil and use your knife to lightly score the line. Repeat scoring 3-4 times until the edges will break away. Bend the cut line back &...
- Page 9 These two parts form the Bridge. Troll-Captain not included. Four stack-halves are glued together... to form the two exhaust stacks. This hatch surrounds the stern anti-aircraft guns (guns not included) Consider the up-angle for your gun barrels. Mark each gun and drill with 1/8-inch drill, each at the same angle. Trim the gun housings close.
- Page 10 Separate the three gun bases. Trim away the edges as shown. Turn over and trim closer but don’t cut the raised area. Trace around the raised area to guide your cutting. Cut to the line with scissors. Sand away any edges missed. The sanded base has smooth turned-down edges.
- Page 11 Sand 1/4 inch of the end of a brass rod. Slip the 3/8” piece of tube over that end. Add a little CA around the end of the rod and press the tube over the rod until even with the end of the brass rod to form a gun barrel. Make 6. Mark the tube 1/8”...
- Page 12 Trace the edges with a pencil and trim with scissors. Use a hobby knife to get the inside corners. Like the gun housings, use the sanding block to sand away the edges left by the scissors. The thinner pieces are easier to hold with a handle made from masking tape.
- Page 13 Get the four stack halves. Trim with scissors. Cut off the bottom just below the curved edge. Make a tape handle. Easier to hold the stack half for sanding. Sand to a flat surface. Don’t press too hard. Before & After sanding. Tape one side of a pair together.
- Page 14 Inside the hull, add filled epoxy to reinforce the stems of the rudder mounts as shown. Use a bent wire to reach around to distribute the epoxy. Attach the deck to the hull with the center 4 screws. The deck and hull are curved. Gluing on the 2nd deck with the deck attached to the hull will help preserve the curve of the deck to match the hull’s curve.
- Page 15 The torpedo launcher points toward the bow of the ship. The pilot house front edge lines up with the base under it. Note the raised walls of the bridge railing hang over the sides of the base under it. For the guns, tape will help you align the round piece under the gun with the round mount on the deck. Don’t install the gun where you plan to mount your bb cannon later.
- Page 16 The included servo may be factory water resistant. If not, before installing the Servo, it can be made water-resistant: Clean off any oil or dirt on the servo case. Scuff the servo case with sandpaper. Paint over the case seams and case screws with two coats of a conformal coating, dope or some nail polish. Put a dab of filled epoxy where the wire comes out of the servo.
- Page 17 Tin the motor tabs. Connect them by holding the tinned wire to the tinned tab and apply heat to melt them together. Install the motor clamp and screw. Tighten only until snug. Install the servo with the wire running toward the stern of the ship as shown.
- Page 18 To avoid binding or excessive friction in the drive shaft, the brass stern tubes should fit fully into their hull journals (angled depressions in the hull). The hull is pre-drilled for the stern tubes, but the openings will need some adjustment if the stern tubes are up on the end when inserted like this. Once the top of the hull opening is trimmed, the stern tube will lay down into the journal.
- Page 19 The final location for the stern tubes is with only about 1/8-inch or less protruding from the hull journals. Keep the epoxy off of the shafts. Mix two 1-1/4” puddles of epoxy and add filler. While holding up the inside shaft end, use a rod or narrow brush to force epoxy under the stern tube into the hull shaft journal.
- Page 20 This is the electronics tray. It fits into the 2nd bay from the bow. You may not need all of it. It helps you lay out your electronics. Best to attach it later to the ballast or hull with pieces of hook & loop for easy removal for drying or working on the electronics once you have designed the layout and location of the internal parts.
- Page 21 Get the two pushrods, rudder arms, set screws and hex wrenches. Cut away the outer hole of each rudder arm as shown and round the two corners a little. Install the Z-bend of each arm from underneath into the outer hole as shown.
- Page 22 Lube motor and shaft bearings with a tiny droplet of oil. Wipe off any excess as oil which can damage plastic. The stern tube grease will only need to be changed if water leaks in along the shafts. It should last for years without changing. Copyright © 2020 Philip Pace, d.b.a. Vac-U-Boat...