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Combat Vac-U-Fletcher
1:144 Semi-Scale Model RC Warship Combat Fletcher-Class Destroyer Hull Kit
Manufactured by Vac-U-Boat 1259 Humphries Rd. Conyers, GA 30012 philpace@vac-u-boat.com
Based upon one of the most successful weapons
systems deployed in World War II.
While no RC Warship Combat kit is "easy to build or cheap", this "Beginner-
Class" kit will get you started in this fascinating hobby and not only give you an
understanding of construction, control and weapon systems, but will make an
effective addition to any fleet in battling against your buddies!
This Combat Vac-U-Fletcher Hull Kit Features: Tough high-impact
polystyrene hull with polyurethane-bonded sub-deck and carbon-fiber-reinforced
hull-ribs & sub-deck cross-members. The sub-deck hatch openings and the hull's
pre-formed penetrable area panels can be removed with a hobby knife or box
cutter. Clear hatch lids & hatch tape waterproof the hull. The deck supports
realistic details and can house a forward-firing 50-round cannon or mounted as a
stern gun (not included). The rudder kit includes a 1.8 square-inch rudder cast on a
brass shaft with a self-aligning rudder bracket, rudder arm, pushrod, and e-z
connector with stainless screw for the servo. A mini servo is included for the
rudders. Servo models will vary according to availability. The twin drive kit
includes two "365" motors direct-driving counter-rotating precision stainless steel
shafts supported by Oilite
injection-molded copper colored polyethylene props, 6-32 threaded drive dogs, and
prop nuts.
This Fletcher-Class Destroyer is a 1.0 unit ship under the rules of the
International Radio Controlled Warship Combat Club. It can be equipped with a
"1/2 bilge pump" and a 25 rounds in its cannon, or a 50 rounds and no bilge pump.
®
bushings in brass stern tubes with brass couplings,
© 2018 Philip Pace dba Vac-U-Boat™
™
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Summary of Contents for Vac-U-Boat Combat Vac-U-Fletcher
- Page 1 Combat Vac-U-Fletcher ™ 1:144 Semi-Scale Model RC Warship Combat Fletcher-Class Destroyer Hull Kit Manufactured by Vac-U-Boat 1259 Humphries Rd. Conyers, GA 30012 philpace@vac-u-boat.com Based upon one of the most successful weapons systems deployed in World War II. While no RC Warship Combat kit is “easy to build or cheap”, this “Beginner- Class”...
- Page 2 Now for the Warnings! Read all of the instructions! Review and understand each step, and the one after, as you build your boat. Don’t rush. Good work takes time. This is not a toy! I know. It LOOKS like a toy, but it isn’t. Toys are generally safe for small children.
- Page 3 KIT CONTENTS Hull & Sub-Deck joined with openings reinforced with carbon fiber rod. Top view and bottom view. Pre-Trimmed Deck 2nd Deck & Deck Components Boat Stand and Internal Electronics Tray. Internal Armor, Hatch Covers & Balsa Skin Cutting Template. Hull Hardware Kit with stainless steel deck screws, plastic &...
- Page 4 INSTRUCTIONS We are ready to get started building this Combat Fletcher hull kit. Follow the photos and captions to assemble your boat. Read through the instructions before building. Assemble the necessary tools and adhesives on a clean workbench or table. Keep paper towels handy to catch spills. Don’t forget the safety glasses! To build this kit you will need: A variable-speed drill.
- Page 5 Use a 3/16” drill to round the corners by drilling next to the marked line at each corner. Do this for all 4 openings. Score along an opening, lightly the first time and with a little more pressure the 2nd or 3rd time. If you knife falls through the slit, tilt it sideways to pull it free.
- Page 6 Push the side panel inward causing it to separate at the bottom and remove it. Repeat 13 more times. Mark the upper side of the hull at the center of the front two sub-deck cross-members to help locate the deck screw holes. Set the deck on the sub-deck.
- Page 7 Insert the #6 x 3/8 inch Phillips pan head screws. Keep them straight as they thread into the sub-deck until just snug. Don’t over tighten. Next time, start them by hand and tighten with screwdriver. Use a 3/16 inch drill to drill into the center of the rudder inset at the stern of the hull.
- Page 8 The upper deck sits on top of the deck. It has a raised outline. Mark the bottom of the outline with a pencil and use your knife to lightly score the outline. Repeat scoring until the edges will break away. Careful not to tear the upper deck at corners.
- Page 9 5-Inch guns and their bases go together with the 2-piece barrels to make five guns for the deck. The bridge assembly starts with the bridge, formed upside-down where the pilot house crew can walk outside. The pilot house roof supports the mast and gun director. The pilot house is also formed upside-down. These parts stack together on top of the upper deck.
- Page 10 These half-round items are anti-aircraft gun placements near the Bow. Early Fletchers had an AA gun nount with a rangefinder mount next to it. Later versions had just the gun mount. The circle forms the floor of the early AA gun mount. The rectangles are bases for mounting the torpedo launchers.
- Page 11 Laying the upper blade flat against the side of the cannon, trim each side until it looks like this. Sand on the sanding block. Rotate it frequently to keep the base of the gun square and even on all sides. Sand just until the rounded bottom is gone as shown on the right photo, “after”...
- Page 12 Lightly sand inside the bottom of the gun shell. Apply super glue around inside the shell and spread evenly. Set the base on a flat scrap surface. Align the gun and press down to engage the base and hold for 10 seconds. It should look like this.
- Page 13 Locate the torpedo launchers. Outline the launcher with a pencil. Cut out the launcher along the line. Sand the edges straight. Cut out the two plastic rectangles. Sand smooth the bottom of the trimmed edges. Sand one side of a rectangle. Sand the underside of the launcher. Apply CA to the raised areas under the launcher. Press the sanded side of the rectangle to the underside of the launcher.
- Page 14 Sanded pair of stack halves “before” & “after”. Once done, hold together and tape one edge to make a hinge. Apply a thin layer of CA around the edge of one of the halves. Fold together and align. The CA will let you reposition the halves until you have them aligned.
- Page 15 Trim the outside with scissors. Use a knife to score the inside opening. Break open along the score lines. Cut around the outside along the line. Make a “tape handle” and sand the top and side opening smooth and straight. Scuff the bottom of the gun placements and the corresponding round areas of the upper deck and glue with CA.
- Page 16 Even the edges. Sand the bottom of the bridge roof. Sand the gun director. Rotate it frequently to sand evenly. Sand just until the rounded edge is gone. Same for the pilot house and the Bridge. Lightly dragging the blade sideways will remove rough edges left from sanding. Score the inside marks at the bridge.
- Page 17 The bridge mounts to this upper deck structure with the rounded fronts even and the rear square to the corners of the upper deck below it. Scuff, apply CA to one surface, press and hold. A mast can be installed for flags or a float to mark where the ship sunk.
- Page 18 Turn over the launcher. Sand the round mount point plus the bottom of the launcher that will contact it. Apply CA to the round mount. Center & press the first torpedo launcher 20 seconds. Repeat for the 2nd Torpedo Launcher. Get the cured stacks and the searchlight mount.
- Page 19 The included servo may be factory water resistant. If not, before installing the Servo, it can be made water-resistant: Clean off any oil or dirt on the servo case. Scuff the servo case with sandpaper. Paint over the case seams and case screws with two coats of a conformal coating, dope or some nail polish. Put a dab of filled epoxy where the wire comes out of the servo.
- Page 20 Tin the motor tabs. Connect them by holding the tinned wire to the tinned tab and apply heat to melt them together. Install the motor clamp and screw. Tighten only until snug. Install the servo with the wire running toward the stern of the ship as shown.
- Page 21 To avoid binding or excessive friction in the drive shaft, the brass stern tubes should fit fully into their hull journals (angled depressions in the hull). The hull is pre-drilled for the stern tubes, but the openings will need some adjustment if the stern tubes are up on the end when inserted like this. Once the top of the hull opening is trimmed, the stern tube will lay down into the journal.
- Page 22 The final location for the stern tubes is with only about 1/8-inch or less protruding from the hull journals. Keep the epoxy off of the shafts. Mix two 1-1/4” puddles of epoxy and add filler. While holding up the inside shaft end, use a rod or narrow brush to force epoxy under the stern tube into the hull shaft journal.
- Page 23 This is the electronics tray. It fits into the 2nd bay from the bow. You may not need all of it. It helps you lay out your electronics. Best to attach it later to the ballast or hull with pieces of hook & loop for easy removal for drying or working on the electronics once you have designed the layout and location of the internal parts.
- Page 24 Insert from under middle hole. Drill the middle holes on each end of the arm with a 1/16-inch drill. Insert an ez-connector into the hole. If it is a tight fit, then remove the ez-connector and drill again to enlarge the hole a little. With the plastic keeper snapped in place, they should rotate easily, but not be loose.
- Page 25 Wipe off any excess as oil which can damage plastic. The stern tube grease will only need to be changed if water leaks in along the shafts. It should last for years without changing. Copyright © 2018 Philip Pace, d.b.a. Vac-U-Boat...