Advertisement
Quick Links
An AMYA Soling One Meter Class Lower Hull Kit
Manufactured by Vac-U-Boat 1259 Humphries Rd. Conyers, GA 30012 philpace@vac-u-boat.com
The Vac-U-Soling™ Lower Hull Kit Features: Tough high-impact polystyrene hull with
a tongue-in-groove perimeter deck joint, full deck, partial hull and transom reinforcing liners
that can be trimmed/adjusted for weight savings, removable one-piece 7 pound keel with
options to special-order lighter or heavier weights, completed rudder with safety clip, Du-Bro
rudder arm, hex wrench, stainless pushrod and easy-connector for your servo, self-aligning
rudder mount, integral transom on the hull, no wood components, precut fiberglass deck cleat
backers, pre-drilled self-centering keel mount/fiberglass servo board/crossmember, 8 servo
screws with hex wrench, stainless steel keel hardware, stainless steel deck hardware, plastic
mast step, magnetically attached hatch cover, removable carbon fiber king post, industrial-
ceramic deck fairleads.
The crossmember accommodates sail servos from standard footprint high-torque digital
models all the way up to the HS-815BB large servo. Rudder servo is mounted near the rudder
or can be mounted on the crossmember. There are no bulkheads giving you better access to the
hull's interior.
This kit does not include paint, sails, mast, booms, sail rigging or electronics. We are
considering a basic sail mast-rigging kit for release in the future.
To build this you will need: A 50-pack of wooden clothespins (83 if you want to laminate
the hull and deck on the same day), talc-cornstarch-microspheres (your favorite epoxy filler), 2
pumps of West Systems 105 epoxy with 206 hardener or similar product (ask if you don't have
any), 30-minute set (or longer) epoxy glue (Devcon 2-Ton at Ace Hardware), one caulking
tube of Loctite PL S40 polyurethane window, door & siding sealant and paper towels.
Tools you may need include a box cutter, 1/16" drill, 5/64" drill, 7/64" drill, a step-
drill set (allow you to drill large holes in plastic without splitting), wrenches,
screwdrivers, drill, an old bath towel, plastic gloves, mixing cup & sticks, alcohol (for
cleaning up epoxy), mineral spirits (for cleaning up polyurethane sealant) and you will
need to borrow four 15oz. cans of vegetables from the pantry.
Vac-U-Soling
™
© 2020 Philip Pace dba Vac-U-Boat™
1
Advertisement
Related Manuals for Vac-U-Boat Vac-U-Soling Lower Hull Kit
Summary of Contents for Vac-U-Boat Vac-U-Soling Lower Hull Kit
- Page 1 ™ An AMYA Soling One Meter Class Lower Hull Kit Manufactured by Vac-U-Boat 1259 Humphries Rd. Conyers, GA 30012 philpace@vac-u-boat.com The Vac-U-Soling™ Lower Hull Kit Features: Tough high-impact polystyrene hull with a tongue-in-groove perimeter deck joint, full deck, partial hull and transom reinforcing liners...
- Page 2 Now for the Warnings! Read all of the instructions! Review and understand each step, and the one after, as you build your boat. Don’t rush. Good work takes time. This is not a toy! I know. It LOOKS like a toy, but it isn’t. Toys are generally safe for small children.
-
Page 3: Kit Contents
KIT CONTENTS High-Impact Polystyrene Deck, Deck Reinforcing Liner, Pre-Cut Fiberglass Deck Cleat Backers. Hull with integral Transom, Hull Reinforcing Liner. Hatch Cover, Transom Reinforcement, Battery Tray, Rudder Servo Mount, Upper King Post Mount. Hull Liner Anchor Inserts, Hull Liner Crossmember Mount Inserts, 8 Rare Earth Magnets, Hull Clamp Strips. - Page 4 INSTRUCTIONS Follow the photos and captions to assemble your boat. Read through the instructions before building. Assemble the necessary tools and adhesives on a clean workbench or table. Keep paper towels handy to catch spills. Don’t forget the safety glasses! Read ahead for each step.
- Page 5 LAMINATING THE DECK: You will need the Deck, Deck Reinforcement, 50 clothes pins, 1-inch epoxy brush, 1 level tablespoon of powdered filler (talc), 1 pump of West Systems 105 epoxy with 206 slow hardener, mixing cup, dowel or craft stick to mix, 100grt double-sided sandpaper, an old bath towel, the 10-inch paint stirring stick. The towel protects the deck’s surface while you are sanding the underside.
- Page 6 Clamp 3 more clothespins keeping the Deck Reinforcing Liner centered to the deck. Clamp two more at the end of the stern. There are no ribs there but still keep the deck corner into the notch of the clothespin. Attach 4 clothespins at the bow clamped to the 2nd & 3rd rib, then put one on the end clamped flat to the tip of both the Deck and the Deck Liner.
- Page 7 Carefully set the Deck Liner epoxy-side down into the Deck. Press the four corners of the cockpit opening to align it. Clamp 4 clothespins to the stern-end sides of the deck at these two ribs. Center the tip of the Deck Liner to the tip of the Deck. Clamp 4 clothespins to the 2nd & 3rd ribs as shown. Check that the cockpit opening is still centered.
- Page 8 Examine the two bow-end clothespins. If one is not touching the table, it could have a slight twist. Lightly grasp the Deck bow and twist up at the side where the clothespin is touching the table to remove the twist. Set down & examine again to confirm it is level.
- Page 9 This is the correct Crossmember shelf insert for this side. It fits flush and evenly into the shelf. The anchor points inserts fit any anchor point. Sand the insides of the two shelves and two inserts you marked and sand the corresponding sides of the inserts that will go into the recesses.
- Page 10 Check the inserts to make sure they are flush with the contour of the Hull Liner and won’t get in the way when you bond the Hull Liner to the Hull. While you wait for the epoxy to cure, sand the hull. Use the folded towel to protect the outside of the hull from scratches and to support the hull as you firmly sand in the marked outline of the Hull Liner’s location inside the Hull.
- Page 11 Support the edges in order to sand the sides evenly. In the Hull, mark the lines for the Hull Liner with 4 clothespins. On the outside of the Hull, center the Clamping Strip between those markers and tape in place. Remove the clothespins. These strips will prevent the clothes pins from dimpling the sides of the Hull.
- Page 12 The cans will hold down the Hull Liner. You start clamping the top at the center. Pinch the sides together with your left hand while you clamp with your right. Center the clothespin on the rib. Notice how the clothespin is clamping the end of the rib and the top edge of the Hull Liner. The Spring is not touching the plastic.
- Page 13 Important: Check for epoxy oozing out of the Transom Reinforcement. Unclip any clothespins necessary and wipe up the epoxy & clean or replace the wet clothespins or it will glue your clothespins to the Transom. Check closely for any epoxy drips and clean the work surface.
- Page 14 Sand the underside of the King Post Upper Mount. Sand inside the Transom raised rectangle where the Transom Backer will be glued. (Notice the bits of clothespin I accidentally glued to the transom?) Sand one side of the fiberglass backers. Sand both sides of the white plastic backer and the backer for the Mast Step.
- Page 15 Epoxy the marked locations for the Backers and place them sanded-side-down. Bow Backer and Side Backer shown. Attach the Mast Step Backer then apply filled epoxy to the King Post Upper Mount and set into place. Check that it is centered. The mount’s center recess should align with the center Mast Step locator dimple, indicated by the drill bit used as a pointer so you can adjust the mount to center.
- Page 16 Confirm the 3/8-inch space and clamp with a clothespin. Put some filled epoxy over and around the 4 Cockpit Magnets to better hold them in place. If your epoxy is beginning to harden, mix a small fresh batch to do this. Set aside to cure. Build a Stand for the Keel.
- Page 17 These are the Hull drill locator dimples. You used them earlier to center the Hull Liner into the Hull from the inside. Practice drilling through a scrap of this plastic with a step drill. Use a slow speed setting. Be patient. Use little pressure. Note the drill diameter markings on the step drill.
- Page 18 Set the Hull onto the Keel. Place the Keel Mount Tubes over the Keel Bolts with the end that is grooved on the bottom (arrow). Set the Keel Mount Shoe over the two tubes with the partial-hole pointed toward the Bow. This would be a good time for Advanced Builders to check the alignment of the Keel to the Rudder Shaft.
- Page 19 Holding the drill as straight as possible at a slower speed, drill into the marked points. The chuck of your drill will probably be touching the side of the hull during this. Pull out the bit 2 or 3 times during drilling to clear debris. Stop just when the rubber hose Depth Gauge touches the shelf.
- Page 20 Press the Shoe into the sealant. Wipe away any excess. If you are using Anchor Points in the Hull, they need to be drilled and installed now. Otherwise, skip this step. Repeat the Drill Depth Gauge setting. This time with a 5/64 inch (2mm) drill bit the length of the eyelet threads.
- Page 21 Once you are sure that the Rudder Mount is in the hole, remove the rudder and wipe off any sealant on the shaft. Clean with mineral spirits if necessary. Check the mount to ensure it is in the hole. The end of the brass tube should be even with the Hull as viewed from underneath.
- Page 22 Apply a thin bead of sealant to the side flanges of the Battery Tray and press into the hull. Wipe away any excess sealant. The Hull is ready for the Deck. Leave the Hull on the Keel to cure overnight, approximately 24 hours and seal the end of the caulking tube to keep fresh until then.
- Page 23 Install the Deck Fairleads now. You will have to mask them with a flat disk of tape when you paint the Deck. You will need your step drills, 30 minute epoxy, the two Fairleads with their O-Rings, a toothpick and a pin that has a plastic end on it. The Fairlead is tiny.
- Page 24 The tongue-in-groove joint will go together easier if the sharp edges of the plastic are reduced. Use your knife to lightly scrape only once or twice along both sides of the Deck groove and both sides of the Hull edge with the blade at an angle to the edge.
- Page 25 Carefully tape along the line on the Transom. Sealant will ooze out of this end. The tape will help with the clean-up. Cut a piece of the double-sided Sandpaper roughly 5/8-inch x 1-inch and fold it in half long-ways as shown. Firmly pinch the piece of Sandpaper over the top edge of the Hull and slide back and forth to roughen the surface.
- Page 26 Lightly round just the sharp edge of the spout at the end of the caulking tube. Push the slit-end of the straw onto the caulking tube just past the end of the slits. Carefully tape to leave no gaps for the sealant to ooze out. Pinch the end of the straw to make it flat so it can slide into the Deck groove.
- Page 27 Like earlier, anchor the Transom end with a piece of tape. Don’t try to reach the line on the Transom with the Deck yet. Work toward the bow, tucking in the hull. At the middle, add tape to secure. Tape the bow. The Hull should be in the groove of the Deck, but not fully seated. Using light pressure, push the Deck onto the Hull until you are at the indicator line you drew earlier.
- Page 28 Remove the piece of tape at the Transom and scrape away the excess sealant. You will also find some excess sealant at the bow of the boat. You should find little excess on the sides. Most of the excess side sealant can be found inside the boat. This is a good sign that the seam is complete and has no voids that could leak.
- Page 29 One light and two medium coats of color plus a top coat of UV-resistant clear was hung up inside to dry overnight. This hardware was installed the next day. Use a 5/64-inch (2mm) drill for the Deck screw eyes. The Transom screw eye can be about 1/2-inch below the Deck overhang, centered on the Transom.
- Page 30 Leave it open to dry. If you find water, set a fan to blow air into the hull for a day to ensure all moisture is removed. Occasionally add a little plastic-friendly (synthetic) grease to the rudder shaft. Copyright © 2020 Philip Pace, d.b.a. Vac-U-Boat...