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Dreadbox DYSMETRIA Construction Manual

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1. Before you get started
1.1 Tools you will use
1.2 Bill of Materials
2. Soldering the Components
STEP 1
Resistors
STEP 2
Diodes
STEP 3
IC sockets, Headers and Power Board
STEP 4
Capacitors and Remaining Components
STEP 5
The Control Board
STEP 6
Connections
CONSTRUCTION
Manual

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Summary of Contents for Dreadbox DYSMETRIA

  • Page 1 CONSTRUCTION Manual 1. Before you get started 1.1 Tools you will use 1.2 Bill of Materials 2. Soldering the Components STEP 1 Resistors STEP 2 Diodes STEP 3 IC sockets, Headers and Power Board STEP 4 Capacitors and Remaining Components STEP 5 The Control Board STEP 6...

  • Page 2: Before You Get Started

    1. Before you get started Before you start the construction of this DIY project, make sure you have basic soldering skills and that you can identify the electronic components. If it is your first time soldering, there are several tutorials on youtube that can help you :) It would be easier and helpful for you to work on a big desk, so as to have plenty of space to work on.
  • Page 3 1.2 Bill of Materials or What's in the box? BAG 3 BAG 1 BAG 2 POWER BOARD VOICING PCB CONTROL PCB PANEL...
  • Page 4 Qty Value Notes Qty Value Notes 6 10mm plastic spacer BAG 1.1 1 DIP16 IC socket BAG 1.5 6 11mm plastic spacer BAG 1.1 1 DIP28 IC socket BAG 1.5 6 15mm plastic spacer BAG 1.1 1 10 pin header male BAG 1.5 2 10mm metal spacer BAG 1.1...
  • Page 5 2. Soldering the components STEP 1 - Resistors (bag 1.3) Remove all the resistors from Bag 1.3. Before you start soldering, measure them and note their value on their tape, as shown on the photos. Remember that resistors have a 1% to 5% tolerance, so for example, a 10k resistor might be measured from about 9.500 ohm to 10.500 ohm.
  • Page 6 A few tips for soldering leaded components Remove parts that are about Bend these as shown. This is the wrong way. to be soldered from their tape. Prepare all the components that need to be bend before soldering. With the cutter, cut carefully all the excess leads.
  • Page 7 1k Resistors: Let’s start! Find and solder the 1k resistors. 2k7 Resistors: Find and solder the 2k7 resistors.
  • Page 8 10k Resistors: Find and solder the 10k resistors.
  • Page 9 18k Resistors: Find and solder the 18k resistors.
  • Page 10 22k Resistors: Find and solder the 22k resistors.
  • Page 11 30k Resistors: Find and solder the 30k resistors. 49k9 Resistors: Find and solder the 49k9 resistors.
  • Page 12 100k Resistors: Find and solder the 100k resistors. 270k Resistors: Find and solder the 270k resistors.
  • Page 13 470k Resistors: Find and solder the 470k resistors.
  • Page 14 220 Ohm Resistors: Find and solder the 220 Ohm resistors.
  • Page 15 STEP 2 - Diodes (bag 1.2) Remove all the parts that are included in the 1.2 Bag . You should have the items shown in the picture. Max temperature of the soldering iron, for this step should be 320º C. We usually prefer to have it set at about 290º...
  • Page 16 Now locate and solder the 3v6 zener diodes. They are marked with a “3” on their tape. Now locate and solder the 5v1 zener diodes. They are on the leftover unmarked tape of 4pcs.
  • Page 17 Next come the 1N4007 diodes. Those serve as reverse power protection for the power supply. On the top side of the voicing PCB, you will place the crystal. This serves as a clock for the MCU. Solder it as shown.
  • Page 18 Now it is time to solder the 5V regulators. They are fed with 12V and convert this to 5V. There are two of them, as you always want to have separate rails for the digital and the analog path. Solder them as shown. Get the 100k Trimmer and solder it as shown.
  • Page 19 Finally, solder the rest of the trimmers, marked as 1k. You should have the following parts as leftovers from this step, 2x 2n3904 and the TL431. Put them to the side, as we will solder them later on.
  • Page 20 STEP 3 - IC sockets, Headers and Power Board (bag 2) Remove all the IC sockets that are included in Bag 2. Put the rest of the parts back to the bag. Max temperature of the soldering iron, for this step, should be 350º C. Solder the IC sockets as shown.
  • Page 21 Open the Bag 1.5 For this step, we will only need the above parts . Put the rest to the side as we will need them later on. Solder them as shown.
  • Page 22 STEP 4 - Capacitors and remaining components (bag 1.3) Remove all the capacitors that are included in Bag 1.3. Max temperature of the soldering iron, for this step, should be 350º C. Separate them per value. Here is what the codes on the ceramic caps mean: 220 = 22p 221= 220p...
  • Page 23 Then place all the 100n capacitors (indicated as 104). Now find all the 220p capacitors (indicated as 221).
  • Page 24 Next come the 1n capacitors (indicated as 102) and 10n (indicated as 103). Then place the remaining capacitors : 4n7, 3u3 and 47uF. Be really careful with the orientation of the electrolytic capacitors! There are 2 ways to identify where the + is: a.
  • Page 25 Finally find the remaining parts shown below. Solder the two transistors indicated as 2n3904 and the voltage reference TL431.
  • Page 26 The 3 headers combined will create a single 50pin header. Yes we could had bought a single continuous one, but the lead time to get them was over 6 months :P Solder these carefully, as shown and make sure they are firm and straight.
  • Page 27 The 10 pin ribbon header should be placed on the bottom side. Things to consider: a. Make sure you have the leads of the components near the ribbon pad, cut clean. b. Make sure you place it correctly, as there is a certain orientation!
  • Page 28 The Voice board is now soldered. Well done!
  • Page 29 STEP 5 - The Control Board (bag 3) Bag 3, by majority, contains parts for the control board. Max temperature here should be 350º C. Open the bag 3.1, which contains the mini jacks and solder them as shown:...
  • Page 30 The next step is maybe the most delicate one in the whole build. We will solder the push buttons. WARNING 1: Make sure you do this procedure right, as if it goes wrong it’s very hard to repair this , unless you are very experienced with soldering/desoldering and you have some pro tools.
  • Page 31 Open the bag 3.4 . Locate the 6 toggle switch and separate the ON/ON from the ON/OFF/ON. The ON/OFF/ON switches have a middle position, while the ON/ON have only two positions. Then solder the switches and add the two 10KB rotary pots and the rotary switch. Did we mention that they should be firm and straight?
  • Page 32 STEP 6 - Connections (bag 1.1) Open bag 1.1 . It includes all the spacers and bolts you will need to put this thing together. Separate them as in the photo. Be carefully not to mix the 15mm plastic spacers with the 11mm ones.
  • Page 33 Next, get 2x bolts, 2x washers and 2x 10mm metal spacers. With these, we will create the stand for the power board. Then attach the power board as shown below.
  • Page 34 Get the USB adapter, your USB cable and power the board. Now that no IC is onboard and there is no real risk, we will check all the voltages . Open the Multimeter to the DC measurement setting. Connect the black test lead to the GND pin and the red test lead to: +12v (should be around 11,8 to 12,4 volts) -12v (should be around -11,8 to -12,4 volts) +5v (+/- 0,1 volts)
  • Page 35 If all the measurements are correct, get the remaining parts from bag 2 and place the ICs into place. WARNING: They have a specific orientation! Actually, on the voicing board, all chips are placed with the same orientation, so that the construction procedure is easier and smoother ;)
  • Page 36 Attach the 50pin female header on top of the male one.
  • Page 37 Get a 15mm plastic header and the M3 nut and place them as shown.
  • Page 38 Now connect the two boards. Bolt the rest of the 15mm plastic spacers το the bottom side as shown.
  • Page 39 Turn the module straight up to its feet, and solder the 50 pin header that is now visible and into place. Get the two potentiometer washers and place them as shown. Then place the panel on the finished board.
  • Page 40 Attach the bolts and set them. Also screw down the potentiometers’ s nuts, but without the use of a tool. Do it as hard as your hand allows you too. Place the knobs into place by using the small screwdriver.
  • Page 41 The following parts must be left: - The midi cable - 4-5 black screws: These are needed in case you are going to attach it in a modular case - A ribbon cable for the same reason - A few resistors and one capacitor (the resistors are just extras, if there are no leftovers, it’s totally ok!)