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l.
Tum
off
the heat
pump
and
its
water supply.
2.
Open
a
plumbing
connection on
the
water supply
side,
if
possible, to break
the system
vacuum
and
a11ow
easier drainage
of
the system and
water
coil.
3.
Drain
the
water out
of
the system and
water
coil
via
the
boiler
drains
on the
entering
and
leaving
water lines,
and the
drain on
the heat exchanger.
EWARNING!!
&
FAILURE
TO COMPLETELY
DRAINTHE
WATER COIL
HEAT
EXCHANGER
COULD POSSIBLY RESULT
IN A
FREEZE
RUPTURE!
4.
Set the
thermostat
to
"Heat"
to
start the heat
pump
in
the
heating mode
and
quickly
freeze the
coil.
5.
Allow
the heat
pump to run
until
it
automatically
shuts
off
on
low
pressure and
then turn
the
thermostat to the
"Off'
position.
6.
Recap the
water
coil
drain
and
tighten
any
plumbing
connections that may
have been
loosened.
7.
If
so
equipped, open
the
field
installed drain cock
on the
water discharge
side
of
the heat
pump,
and
install
a
short
piece
of
rubber
hose
to
allow
drainage
into
a
drain or
bucket.
A
drain cock on
the
discharge
side
allows the water
flow
to
bypass
the
solenoid valve,
flow
valve,
flow
meter, or
any
other item that may
be
clogged by mineral
debris.
Drainage
to
a
bucket
helps
prevent
the
clogging
of
drains
and
allows you
to visually
determine
the
effectiveness
of
the
procedure.
8.
Turn
on the
water supply to
the heat
pump
in
order
to
start the process
of flushing
any mineral debris
from
the
unit.
9.
Set
the
thermostat
to "Cool"
and start the heat
pump
in
the
cooling
mode to
quickly
thaw out
the
water
coil.
10.
Run
the heat
pump
until
the
water
coil
is
completely thawed out
and
any
loosened scale,
mineral
deposits,
or
other debris
buildup
is flushed
completely
from
the
water
coil.
Allow
at
least
5
minutes
of
operation to
ensure
that
the
water
coil
is
thoroughly
thawed out.
I
1.
If
the
water
still
contains mineral debris,
and
if
the
flow
through
the
unit
did not
improve
along
with
an increase
in
the
temperature difference between
the
water supply
and
discharge,
repeat the
entire
procedure listed
above.
12.
Reset the heat
pump
for
normal operation.
b.
Chlorine
Cleaning
(Bacterial Growth)
1.
Turn
the
thermostat to the
"Off'
position.
2.
Connect
a
submersible
circulating
pump to
the
hose
bibs on
the
entering
and
leaving water
sides
of
the heat exchanger.
3.
Submerse the
pump
in
a
five-gallon pail of
water
and
chlorine bleach
mixture.
The
chlorine
should
be strong enough
to
kill
the
bacteria.
Suggested
initial
mixture
is
1
part chlorine bleach to
4 parts
water.
4.
Close the
shut
off
valves upstream
and
downstream
of
the heat exchanger.
5.
Open the hose
bibs to
allow circulation of
the
bleach solution.
6.
Start
the
pump
and
circulate the solution through
the heat
exchanger
for
15
minutes to
one
hour.
The solution should
change
color
to indicate
the
chlorine is
killing
the
bacteria
and
removing
it
from
the heat exchanger.
7.
Flush
the used
solution down
a
drain by adding
a
fresh water supply to
the
pail.
Flush
until
the
leaving water is
clear.
8.
Repeat
this procedure
until
the solution runs clear
through
the
chlorine
circulation
process.
9.
Flush
the
entire
heat
pump
system
with
water.
This procedure
can be repeated
annually, semiannually, or
as
often
as
it
takes
to
keep
bacteria out
of
the heat
exchanger,
or
when bacteria
appears
in
a
visual
flowmeter
to
the
point
the
flow
cannot
be read.
Another
alternative
to
bacteria problems is
to
shock
your
entire
well.
Shocking
your well
may give longer term
relief from
bacteria problems
than
cleaning your
heat
exchanger,
but
will
probably
need
to
be repeated,
possibly
every
three
to
five
years.
tContact
a
well
driller
in your
area
for
more
information.
c.
Miratic Acid
Cleaning
(Diflicult
Scaling
and
Particle Buildup
Problems)
1.
Consult installer
due
to
dangerous
nature
of
acids.
2.
Iron
out solutions
and
de-scaling products
are also
useful.
V.
CONDENSATE
DRAIN
Condensate
traps
are
built
into
every GeoSource 2000
vertical unit,
so
an
external trap should not
be
installed.
Vertical
units must
be
level
to insure proper
condensate
drainage. Horizontal
units require
an
external
condensate
trap
in
order to drain water
from
the heat
pump.
Horizontal
units must
also be
mounted level
in
order
for
the condensate
to drain.
The
condensate
line
as
it
leaves the
U
bend
of
the
condensate
trap
must be at least
3" below
the
base
of
the
heat
pump.
This requires the U
bend
to
be
6"
below
the
unit
to give
the
upward
portion of
the
U bend
a
3"
lift.
The
condensate
trap
should
be
vented
after
the
U
bend.
The
condensate
line
should
be
pitched away
from
the
unit
a
minimum
of
l/8"
per
foot. If
the
unit
produces
an
odor
in
the
cooling
mode,
the condensate
trap or
line
may
be
plugged, or
the
unit
may not
be
pitched
correctly.
Bleach
may
be
poured down
the condensate
drain in
the
heat
pump to
kill
any
bacterial
growth in
the condensate
line.
Downflow
units
also
require
an
external
condensate
trap.
A
stand is
required undemeath
a
downflow unit,
since
placing
the
unit
on
the
floor
would not
allow for
the
6"
,7
t
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