Singer 14 U44B/244B Operator's Manual
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Singer 14 U44B/244B Operator's Manual

Singer 14 U44B/244B Operator's Manual

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14
U44B/244B
3-4THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE
Operator's
Guide
SINGER

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Summary of Contents for Singer 14 U44B/244B

  • Page 1 U44B/244B 3-4THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE Operator’s Guide SINGER...
  • Page 2 To ensure that you are always provided with the most modern sewing capabilities, the manufacturer reserves the right to change the appearance, design or accessories of this sewing machine when considered necessary without notification or obligation. A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY Copyright ©1992 SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY All Rights Reserved Throughout The World...
  • Page 3 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed including the following. Read all instructions before using this machine. DANGER — To reduce the risk of electric shock: The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
  • Page 4 ■ Never drop or insert any object into any opening. ■ Do not use outdoors. ■ Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. ■ Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

  • Page 5: Table Of Contents

    CONTENTS Page Page Accessories............. 4 Seam guide lines..........24 Needle information .........4 How to adjust the overedge Principal parts..........5 seam width ..........25 How to open looper cover ......6 How to sew a rolled hem....... 26 Principal parts behind looper cover ....6 •...

  • Page 6: Accessories

    * Do not attempt to use a standard household sewing machine needle of any size or type in this overlook. * Singer needle #2054 size 14 is furnished with the machine. Regular point needles (#2054-42) for sewing woven fabrics and ball point needles (2054-06) are available for sewing knits.

  • Page 7: Principal Parts

    PRINCIPAL PARTS ® Thread guides and holder ® Handle Pressure regulating screw Left needle thread tension dial (blue) Right needle thread tension dial (green) Upper looper thread tension dial (orange) Lower looper thread tension dial (yellow) (D Flip and sew convertible bed plate ®...

  • Page 8: How To Open Looper Cover

    HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER * Push the cover to the right as far as it will go. (f) * Pull cover down toward you. @ Caution: Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing. PRINCIPAL PARTS BEHIND LOOPER COVER 0 Upper looper Movable upper knife @ Presser foot...

  • Page 9: Setting Up The Thread Guide Holder

    Warning: Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage of the motor. * Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything on top of it when not in use.

  • Page 10: How To Remove And Insert Needle

    8 HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES • TO REMOVE NEEDLE (S) * Be sure to disconnect the machine from the electric outlet before removing needle(s). * Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is at its highest position. * Loosen, but do not remove the needle set screw with the small screwdriver.

  • Page 11: How To Remove Cylinder Cover

    HOW TO REMOVE CYLINDER COVER * Removing the cylinder cover exposes the lower looper for easy threading and cleaning of the ma­ chine. * While pulling the cylinder cover to the left ®,lift cover upward and off the machine (2). HOW TO REPLACE CYLINDER COVER * Place the tab on top of the cylinder (T) under the...

  • Page 12: Threading The Machine

    THREADING THE MACHINE • THREADING DIAGRAM * A color coded threading diagram is located inside the looper cover for quick reference. * Thread the machine in the order 0 to 0 as shown. * UNDERSTANDING THE COLOR CODE * Left needle thread — Blue * Right needle thread - Green 0 3 THREADS * Upper looper thread —...
  • Page 13 * Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide (T). * Insert thread through the right hole. * Bring thread up and insert through top of left hole * Hold the thread above the tension disc to stabilize it.(3)-A * Pass thread down through thread guide (3) —B.
  • Page 14 (2) Threading the Lower Looper (Yellow) * Thread the lower looper as indicated ® Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide ®. * Insert thread down through the right hole. * Bring thread up and insert through top of left hole * Hold the thread above the tension disc to stabilize it.
  • Page 15 * Thread the looper area of the machine following the yellow color coded thread guides (5)'^(7) • * Remove the cylinder cover (page 9) to expose the lower looper for threading. * Turn the hand wheel toward you until the lower looper is at the far left.
  • Page 16 Threading the Left Needle (Blue) * Thread the left needle as indicated ® * Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide ®. * Insert thread down through the right hole. * Bring thread up and insert through top of left hole * Hold the thread above tension disc to stabilize it (|)-A.
  • Page 17 * Continue to thread points 0 ^(7). Note: Lower needle bar when threading ® and * Pass thread through notch©—A of thread guide© * Thread the eye of the left needle ®. * The needle may be easier to thread when the upper knife is disengaged and placed in the non­...
  • Page 18 Threading the Right Needle (Green) 'Tsmi— (D . * Thread the right needle as indicated © ~ * Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 0. * Insert thread down through the right hole. * Bring thread up and insert through top of left hole * Hold the thread above tension disc to stabilize it (D-A.

  • Page 19: Important Threading Information

    Continue to thread points ( 4 ) . Note: Lower needle bar when threading (6) and ©• Pass thread through notch®—B of thread guide ® * Thread the eye of the right needle. (|) * The needle may be easier to thread when the upper knife is disengaged and placed in the non­...

  • Page 20: Chaining Off And Test Sewing

    CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING * When the machine is completely threaded, bring all of the threads over the throat plate and slightly to the left under the presser foot. * Hold the threads and apply a slight tension. * Turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete turns to start the thread chain.

  • Page 21: Basic Stitch Types

    BASIC STITCH TYPES Stitch 4 THREAD OVERLOOK MOCK SAFETY STITCH This machine is a four-thread overlook that uses two needles and two loopers to create a 5.7mm (7/32 inch) wide four-thread mock safety stitch. • WIDE 3 THREAD OVERLOOK STITCH 5.7mm (7/32") * When the right needle is removed a wide 5.7mm (7/32 inch) three-thread stitch is sewn.

  • Page 22: Suggested Tension Settings For 4 Thread

    • SUGGESTED TENSION SETTINGS FOR 4 THREAD OVERLOOK MOCK Tension Dial Fabric SAFETY STITCH Green Orange Y ellow Blue Note; Light weight Medium weight * These are suggested tension settings only. Heavy weight * Tension settings are effected by 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread Upper looper thread...

  • Page 23: Suggested Tension Setting For The 3 Thread Overlock Stitch

    * SUGGESTED TENSION SETTINGS FOR THE 3 THREAD OVERLOOK STITCH Left Needle/Wide 3 Thread Overlook Stitch Note: Tension Dial Fabric * These are suggested tension settings only. Green Orange Yellow Blue * Tension settings are effected by Light weight 1) Type and thickness of fabric Medium weight 2) Needle size Heavy weight...

  • Page 24: How To Change Threads/Tie On Method

    HOW TO CHANGE THREADS/TIE ON METHOD * To change thread type or color, clip thread near the spool. * Place new thread on stand. * Tie new thread and old thread ends together. * Clip thread tails to 2 3 cm (1 inch) length. If clipped too short, threads may come untied.

  • Page 25: How To Adjust The Stitch Length

    * Pull the threads through the machine one at a time. * If threads do not pull easily, check for tangles on thread guides or looping under thread stand. * When pulling thread through the needle, STOP when the knot is in front of the needle. * Cut the thread, and insert it through the needle.

  • Page 26: To Place Movable Knife In Working Position

    * TO PLACE MOVABLE KNIFE IN WORKING POSITION * Open looper cover and push the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go. * Turn the knob up and toward you until the knife clicks into the operating position. Caution: Always close looper cover before operating machine.

  • Page 27: How To Adjust The Overedge Seam Width

    HOW TO ADJUST THE OVEREDGE SEAM WIDTH * The machine is set to sew the 4 thread stitch and three thread left needle position stitch at a width of 5.7mm (7/32 inch). The machine is set to sew the three thread right needle position stitch at a width of 3.5mm (9/64 inch).

  • Page 28: How To Sew A Rolled Hem

    то SEW A ROLLED HEM * Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedging the fabric edge. * Light weight fabrics such as lawn, voil, organdy, crepe, etc. perform the best. * Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff fabrics.

  • Page 29: Suggested Tension Settings For Standard Rolled Hem

    * Set the stitch length dial to and a fine seam will be sewn. * This machine can sew two types of rolled hems. * SUGGESTED TENSION SETTINGS FOR STANDARD ROLLED HEM * Always sew a test sample and adjust tension balance if neccessary.

  • Page 30: Additional Information About Rolled Hemming

    When the lower looper thread is too loose mWAVj — Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (yellow) toward a higher number. Needle thread — Or, turn the upper looper thread tension dial (orange) to a lower number. Lower looper Upper looper thread thread...

  • Page 31: Stitch Variations And Sewing

    STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING TECHNIQUES * HOW TO SEW A FLATLOCK DECORATIVE SEAM A ilatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension of the three-thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam and pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam. * The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and decorative stitch or for ornamentation only.
  • Page 32 * Pull on opposite sides of the seam to pull the stitches flat. (3) Decorative Flatlocking * Place the movable upper knife in the non-working position (page 23). The fabric is not trimmed on this stitch. * Fold fabric wrong sides together. * Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part of the stitch extending off the fabric.

  • Page 33: How To Sew An Overlock Blind Hem

    то • HOW SEW AN OVERLOOK BLIND HEM The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn and the raw edges are overlocked in one operation. The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit wear. It provides a durable finish that is almost invisible.

  • Page 34: Turning Square Corners

    * Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together and sew. ■ * Press the pin tucks in the same direction. * TURNING SQUARE CORNERS Cutting line I (1) Outside Corner * Cut out approximately 2 cm (51/64 inch) from the corner, in line with the overedge seam edge.

  • Page 35: Pin Placement

    * Place movable upper knife in non-operating posi- tion (page 23). * Stitch on cut edge of fabric. * Stop sewing before you reach the corner and fold the fabric to the left to straighten the corner. * Continue to sew slowly holding the fabric edge in a straight line moving the fold as you sew.

  • Page 36: Applying Elastic

    • APPLYING ELASTIC * Place the movable upper knife in the non-operat­ ing position, (page 23) * Divide the elastic and the area where the elastic will be attached into quarters and mark with a watersoluble marker. * Lay elastic on the wrong side of the fabric making sure elastic and fabric edges are even.

  • Page 37: How To Reinforce A Seam

    * HOW TO REINFORCE A SEAM * Inserting twill tape while overedge sewing will stabilize the seam. * Insert the tape through the hole in the front of the foot. * Position the tape under the foot to the back of the machine and sew the garment seam.

  • Page 38: Differential Feed (With Differential Feed Machine Only)

    DIFFERENTIAL FEED (with differential feed machine only) Differential feed is a system which “stretches” or Feed Control Lever “gathers” the fabric, when amount of feed of front feed dog in relation to the rear feed dog is changed. The differential feed ratio ranges from 1:0.77 ~ Thumb Screw 1:2.0.
  • Page 39 (2) Stretch overedge (Use regular or rolled hemming throat plate) * Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and woven fabrics. To set the differential feed adjusting lever * Open looper cover and loosen differential feed adjusting lever thumb screw.

  • Page 40: How To Adjust The Presser Foot Pressure

    HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE The presser foot pressure of the machine is pre­ Pressure regulating thumb screw adjusted for sewing medium weight fabrics. * It may be necessary to adjust the pressure to sew different weights of fabrics by turning the pressure regulating screw.

  • Page 41: Relationship Between Cloth, Thread And Needle

    RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTH, THREAD AND NEEDLE Needle Type of Fabric Type of Thread Singer Cat. No. 2054 Light Weight Lawn, Organdy, Cotton #100 Silk #100 Voil, Crepe, etc. Spun #80 - #90 Tetron #80 - #100 Medium Weight Cotton #60 - #80...

  • Page 42: Machine Maintenance

    25. MACHINE MAINTENANCE * An overlock requires more maintenance than a conventional machine mainly due to two reasons. 1) A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action of the knives. An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal working parts.

  • Page 43: How To Replace The Stationary Knife

    * The stationary knife can be replaced according to the directions provided, however if there are any difficulties experienced, consult your Singer re­ presentative to make the adjustments. * Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from the electric source.

  • Page 44: How To Exchange Light Bulb

    * HOW TO EXCHANGE LIGHT BULB Danger: Always unplug before relamping. * First of all, be sure to disconnect power-line plug. * Remove light cover as shown in figure, turn bulb to left and remove. To replace, push bulb into socket and turn to right.

  • Page 45: Troubleshooting Chart

    26. TROUBLESHOOTING CHART Solution Page Problem Fabric does not — Lengthen stitch length feed well — Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric — Decrease presser foot pressure for light weight fabric Needle breaks — Insert needle correctly — Do not pull fabric while sewing —...

  • Page 46: Optional Accessories And Attachments

    ATTACHMENTS (1) Sewing with an Overlook * For additional information, the following book is recommended. Sewing with an Overlock-From The Singer Sewing Reference Library, published by Cy Decosse Incorporated. (P/W 376559) (2) Edge Guide * Attaches to the looper cover to aid in seaming and decorative sewing such as flatlocking and pin tucking.

  • Page 47: Specification

    Rolled hemming 1.5mm, ordinary overedge 3.5 ~ 7.2mm (standard 3.5mm) Needle bar stroke 27 mm Presser foot rise 5 mm Needle Singer Cat. No. 2054 (#10), #14 Number of threads Machine dimensions Width 257mm depth 231mm height 313mm Weight 14U44B 5.7 kg...
  • Page 48 Form U6237 (992) Part No. 379417-002 Printed in Japan...

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