Bernina artista 180 Important Safety Instructions Manual

Bernina artista 180 Important Safety Instructions Manual

Sewing and embroidery machine
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical machine, basic safety
precautions should always be followed, including the
following.
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
When the machine is not in use, it should be disconnected
from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the
outlet.
DANGER
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. A machine should never be left unattended when
plugged in.
2. Always unplug this machine from the electric outlet
immediately after using and before cleaning.
3. Always unplug before replacing light bulb. Replace
the bulb with the same type rated 12 volts/5 watts.
WARNING
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to
persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention
is necessary when this machine is used by or near
children.
2. Use machine only for its intended use as described
in this manual. Use only attachments recommended
by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this machine if
· it has a damaged cord or plug
· it is not working properly
· it has been dropped or damaged
· it has fallen into water
Return the machine to the nearest authorized
BERNINA dealer or service center for examination,
repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the machine with any air openings
blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing
machine and foot control free from accumulation
of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care
is required around the sewing needle.
6. Always use the BERNINA original stitch plate. The
wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
7. Do not use bent needles.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may
deflect the needle, causing it to break.
9. Turn power switch to "0" when making any adjust-
ments in the needle area, such as threading or
changing the needle, threading the bobbin or
changing the presser foot.
10. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electri-
cal outlet when removing covers, lubricating or when
making any other user servicing adjustments men-
tioned in this instruction manual.
11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
12. Do not use outdoors.
13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are
being used or where oxygen is being administered.
14. Before disconnecting, turn all controls to the off ("0")
position then remove the plug from the outlet.
15. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord but grasp the
plug before pulling.
16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible
damage as the result of misuse of the machine.
17. This machine is provided with double insulation.
Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions
for Servicing of double-insulated machines.
SERVICING DOUBLE-
INSULATED PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation
are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means
is provided on a double-insulated product nor should a
means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing
a double-insulated product requires extreme care and
knowledge of the system and should only be done by
qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a
double-insulated product must be identical to those
parts in the product. A double insulated product is mar-
ked with the words "DOUBLE INSULATION" or "DOUBLE
INSULATED".
The symbol
may also be marked on the product.
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS!
This sewing machine is intended for household use only.
Safety Instructions
1

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Summary of Contents for Bernina artista 180

  • Page 1 SAVE THESE is required around the sewing needle. INSTRUCTIONS! 6. Always use the BERNINA original stitch plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. This sewing machine is intended for household use only. 7. Do not use bent needles.
  • Page 2 In addition, a wide range of sewing accessories, together with sewing publications full of practical and creative ideas, add to the joy of sewing the BERNINA way. It gives me great pleasure to welcome you into the BERNINA family.
  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Contents Safety Instructions Forward 4–5 Details of the machine 6–11 Setting up the machine 12–14 Stitch Summary Presser feet 16–17 Practical stitches/buttonholes 18–23 General instructions 23–29 Functions Messages 30–38 Buttonholes 38–39 Alphabets/numbers 39–44 Memory 45–47 Quilt stitches/16-directional sewing/4-directional sewing 47–48 Sideways motion stitches –...
  • Page 4 Details of the machine Details of the machine 14 15 Front view Back view...
  • Page 5 Details of the machine Bobbin cover Stitch plate Attachment base for special accessories Darning ring connection Presser foot Needle clamp Thread guide Needle threader Thread take-up cover Thread path Thread take-up Bobbin pre-tension Quick reverse button F (Favorite Function) button Pattern end Screen Bobbin winder with on/off switch and...
  • Page 6: Setting Up The Machine

    Setting up the machine Carrying case Carrying case · protects from dust and dirt · compartment for accessories Accessories · foot control · instruction manual · power cable · warranty card · FHS presser foot lifter (Free Hand System) · ruler for sewing table ·...
  • Page 7 Setting up the machine Power cable Power cable Important! (USA/Canada only) · the power cable is stored in the case This sewing machine has a polarized plug · plug A into machine (one blade wider than the other). To · plug B into electrical outlet reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit only one way into a Foot control cable...
  • Page 8 Setting up the machine Winding the bobbin Thread cutter Winding the bobbin Threading the bobbin · cut the thread on the · turn power switch on · following the direction of the arrow take thread through thread cutter · place empty bobbin on the rear guide and round the pre-tension stud spindle ·...
  • Page 9 Setting up the machine Changing the needle Removing the needle · raise the needle · turn power switch to “0” · lower the presser foot · loosen the needle clamp · pull the needle down to remove Inserting the needle ·...
  • Page 10 Setting up the machine Threading the upper thread Attaching the thread spool · raise the needle and presser foot · turn the power switch to “0” · place spool on pin · attach the appropriate spool disc – diameter of spool = disc size ·...
  • Page 11 Setting up the machine Thread cutter Thread cutter on head frame · pull both threads from front to back over the cutter. · the threads release as soon as the first stitch is sewn Stitch Plate Stitch plate markings · the stitch plate is marked with vertical ·...
  • Page 12: Stitch Summary

    Stitch Summary Practical stitches Buttonholes 9 mm/40 mm decorative stitches...
  • Page 13 Stitch Summary Quilt stitches 16-directional sewing 4-directional sewing Alphabets...
  • Page 14 Stitch Summary...
  • Page 15: Presser Feet

    Samples of Specialty Presser Feet The standard selection of presser feet covers most normal sewing requirements but we recommend the use of BERNINA specialty presser feet for specific sewing tasks such as quilting, heirloom sewing, home decorating, tailoring, etc. They are available from your BERNINA dealer.
  • Page 16 Practical stitches Practical stitches 1 Straight stitch 11 Super stretch All non-stretch fabrics. All straight Open seam in all super-stretch fabrics, stitch work. such as Lycra. 2 Zig-zag 12 Gathering stitch Most fabric types. All simple zig-zag Most types of fabric. Gathering with applications such as oversewing fine shirring elastic.
  • Page 17 Automatic darning in fine and medium Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops weight fabrics. etc. For specific instructions on using various 23 Reinforced darning program practical stitches, refer to the artista 180 Automatic darning in heavy weight Sewing Manual, pages 2–20. fabrics. Buttonholes 51 Standard buttonhole 57 Keyhole buttonhole with Fine to medium weight fabrics.
  • Page 18 General instructions Screen The artista is operated with a combination of external buttons and knobs and a touch screen. Switch machine on · power switch to “1” Welcome screen · welcome · appears for approximately 3 seconds · can be omitted in the Setup program Practical stitch screen ·...
  • Page 19 General instructions On-screen stitch selection/stitch display/functions Stitch Selection · touch the stitch of your choice · the stitch is highlighted · every stitch is displayed with its number Altering the stitch width Altering the stitch width · turn the upper knob ·...
  • Page 20 General instructions Presser foot indicator · the recommended presser foot is displayed by number Return to basic settings · press the external clr button · the stitch will revert to its basic set- tings Needle stop adjustment · press needle stop button again – ·...
  • Page 21: Practical Stitches/Buttonholes

    General instructions Confirm and go to next screen Back to previous screen · touch OK to confirm · touch esc · the screen displays the selected · the previous screen appears stitch · if the selection was not confirmed · the selected stitch is active by touching OK, the stitch selected (highlighted) by number will be ignored...
  • Page 22 General instructions Alphabet button · the alphabet menu appears · touch to select the alphabet of your choice quilt stitches Quilt stitches/Directional sewing button · the menu of the 3 categories appears: 16 directions · quilt stitches · 16-directional sewing ·...
  • Page 23 General instructions / Functions TTC (Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative eco (ecology) button Consultant) · press the eco button · press the button · energy use by the machine is cut by · three menus appear on the screen · Thread tension · particularly useful for long ·...
  • Page 24 Functions General functions The following functions are found on various screens and consistently used in the same manner for specific tasks programs of the artista sewing machine. They are when accessing and moving between different programs. Scroll up Closing special applications ·...
  • Page 25 Functions Vertical mirror image Motor speed ⁄ ⁄ ⁄ ⁄ · touch symbol · touch symbol one or more times to · machine sews selected stitch in select speed vertical mirror image (up/down – · selected speed is displayed determined by the sewing direction) ·...
  • Page 26 Functions Clear All Balance · clears all settings that were · touch symbol to open balance changed except those that were screen changed using the Setup program · correct forwards and reverse · returns to default settings stitches · Settings affected: ·...
  • Page 27 Functions Functions in Memory The following functions become available along the lower portion of the screen when the external memory button is pressed to access the memory feature. Store Check · touch symbol · touch symbol · saves individual stitches, stitch ·...
  • Page 28 Functions Vertical mirror image Letter size · touch symbol · touch one or more times · machine sews selected stitch in · one half of field is highlighted vertical mirror image · the gray section visually indicates · alteration of selected stitch is the letter size: large (9 mm) or shown on-screen small (6 mm)
  • Page 29: Messages

    Functions/Messages Alphabet program functions One of the following functions will appear in the lower normal functions shown on the toolbar by one, causing it left corner of the screen when a letter of an alphabet or to be hidden. monogram is selected. It will reduce the number of Letter size Monogram size ·...
  • Page 30: Buttonholes

    Buttonholes are practical closures All buttonholes can be sewn and which can also be used for a programmed in a variety of ways. decorative effect. The artista 180 provides a very versatile selection. Buttonholes/Button sewing on · 59 straight stitch buttonhole program/eyelets ·...
  • Page 31 Leveler. This accessory will create a For buttonhole example, refer to the (optional accessory) smooth surface for the foot and help artista 180 Sewing Manual, page 25. When sewing a buttonhole using make a perfect buttonhole. Automatic Buttonhole Foot No. 3A...
  • Page 32 Buttonholes Automatic buttonhole (all types) Direct entry length If the desired length of a buttonhole When using the Automatic is known, it can be directly entered buttonhole foot No. 3A for stitching into the machine (in millimeters). keyhole buttonholes, the maximum length that should be entered is 24 mm.
  • Page 33 · auto appears under the graphic of the buttonhole on the screen · the buttonhole is now programmed · all subsequent buttonholes will be For buttonhole example, refer to the sewn as programmed artista 180 Sewing Manual, page 27.
  • Page 34 For additional information about · balance affects both beads and the buttonholes, refer to the artista 180 Sewing Manual, pages 21–28. Buttonhole in Long Term Memory One buttonhole of each type may be Once the length of the buttonhole is...
  • Page 35 · touch the “man” function Step symbols For buttonhole examples, refer to · step symbols appears on the screen the artista 180 Sewing Manual, for the buttonhole selected page 28. · the arrow in the circle is on “0” when the buttonhole is selected ·...
  • Page 36 Buttonholes Sewing a Four-step Buttonhole (round and keyhole) Sewing a 4-step buttonhole · bartack, keyhole, and securing · touch “1” stitches are preprogrammed · sew the 1st bead · use an awl to punch the keyhole · stop the machine at the desired before cutting the buttonhole open length ·...
  • Page 37 · wind thread ends around the thread · wind thread ends around the thread under the button to create a thread under the button to create a thread shank shank For button sew-on example, refer to the artista 180 Sewing Manual, page 29.
  • Page 38: Alphabets/Numbers

    Buttonholes / Alphabets/Numbers Eyelet program Eyelets For eyelet examples, refer to the · select eyelet No. 61 (zig-zag) or artista 180 Sewing Manual, page 30. No. 62 (straight stitch) Sewing the eyelet · machine stops automatically at the end of the program Punching the eyelet ·...
  • Page 39: Memory

    39–44 Monogram letters in memory For alphabet example, refer to the · it is possible to combine monogram artista 180 Sewing Manual, page 43. letters in memory · the distance between letters is programmed with the 16...
  • Page 40 Memory Open Memory Open Memory · the function toolbar at the bottom · press the external mem button of the screen changes automatically · the memory bar appears on the to include those functions appro- screen priate for memory · the third row of stitches disappears ·...
  • Page 41 Memory Programming stitches by number Stitches by number Correct · open memory · touch del in the upper right corner · touch function 0–9 to change the stitch number · numbers appear on the screen · the cursor moves to the left and ·...
  • Page 42 Memory Visible functions (in memory bar) Note: · the securing function appears as a Functions such as Long stitch and function in the memory bar Pattern extend can be used with · delete unwanted functions from the sideways motion stitches, memory bar before continuing with however, they will be distorted, programming...
  • Page 43 Memory Deleting a stitch/letter within a memory · place the cursor to the right of the stitch to be deleted · touch del · the stitch to the left of the cursor is deleted Inserting a stitch in memory · place cursor where the stitch is to be inserted ·...
  • Page 44 Memory Memory capacity Open mem screen · open memory by pressing the external mem button · touch mem on the functions toolbar · the memory bank screen appears · the total capacity used by stored stitch patterns is shown in % in the top row ·...
  • Page 45 Quilt stitches/directional sewing Quilt stitches/16 directions/4 directions quilt stitches Quilt stitches/ Directional sewing button · the menu of the 3 categories appears: · quilt stitches 16 directions · 16-directional sewing · 4-directional sewing · touch to select the category of your choice 4 directions ·...
  • Page 46 Quilt stitches/directional sewing 16 directional sewing – straight stitch with long stitch function Straight stitch with long stitch · the long stitch function is now function highlighted on the toolbar at the · press the external quilt/directional lower edge of the screen button ·...
  • Page 47: Sideways Motion Stitches - Outline Designs

    Sideways motion stitches Sewing direction · the machine sews the selected · for quicker sewing, select the stitch in the direction chosen Pattern End 1–9 function · for applying a patch, the easiest Sewing way to work is to sew in a square ·...
  • Page 48 Sideways motion stitches Templates · the templates provided show the motifs in their stitched forms and sizes · the stitch beginning is marked with a circle · the stitch ending is marked with a cross · the presser foot direction is shown with fine lines ·...
  • Page 49: Balance

    Balance Balance All stitches are checked and fully These effects can be corrected with adjusted before the machine leaves the electronic balance so that the the factory. stitch formation can be adjusted where necessary to suit the fabric. Different fabrics, threads, stabilizers, and interfacings can affect There are 50 vertical steps and 20 programmed stitches so that...
  • Page 50: Help

    Balance / Help Program Balance for sideways motion stitches Fabric, thread stabilizers, and inter- stitches so correcting with balance facings can affect sideways motion will sometimes be necessary. Balance Horizontal corrections · select sideways motion stitch or · the horizontal balance is shown in motif the right half of the screen ·...
  • Page 51 Help Program / Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative Consultant Note Help screen/Functions The Help program can be opened · the screen offers the following at any time without affecting the information: work at hand. · name of the function · explanation · brief listing of main applications Back to previous screen ·...
  • Page 52 BERNINA dealer. After entering the type of fabric and technique you wish to use, the The Creative Consultant...
  • Page 53 Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative Consultant Menu · the following menu appears: · Thread tension · Tutorial · Creative Consultant · touch Creative Consultant Fabric menu · use the arrows to scroll up and · 3 columns of fabric types are down for all choices displayed ·...
  • Page 54: Smart Function

    Smart Function Smart Function Sometimes you have to interrupt a The screen in which you are working task at hand to complete another with all the settings you made can be piece of sewing which must be done saved and easily re-opened. before you can carry on any further.
  • Page 55: Setup Program

    Setup Program Setup Program The Setup program allows you to All changes made in the Setup pro- personalize the screen to suit your gram will be saved, even when the own requirements and preferences. machine is turned off. You can change basic settings The machine can be reset and permanently and program the F returned to the factory settings at...
  • Page 56 Setup Program Personal Program Use the Personal program to design a When inserting stitches into the Per- screen with the stitches you use most sonal program, variations (different often. Whether it is made up of stitch widths, stitch lengths, and stitches for a certain type of sewing, needle positions) of all stitches may such as heirloom or garment, or just...
  • Page 57 Setup Program Inserting the second stitch · press the external buttonhole button · touch the round buttonhole (stitch 54) Personal screen · screen changes to personal program · the round buttonhole appears on the screen · touch store to save the buttonhole in your personal program ·...
  • Page 58 Setup Program Deleting stitches from the Personal Program Setup menu · press the external Setup button, menu appears · select personal program Personal screen · personal screen appears · select stitch to be deleted (will be highlighted) Delete the stitch ·...
  • Page 59 Setup Program Programming functions Setup menu · press the external Setup button · menu appears · touch Functions Functions screen · all functions in the lower rows are · all functions available appear on active the screen · the upper two rows of functions ·...
  • Page 60 Setup Program · the programmed function is displayed on the screen to the right of the needle stop position symbol · it can be reprogrammed in the same manner as often as you like Return all functions to basic settings ·...
  • Page 61 Setup Program Audio signals · bobbin winder · audio signals can be applied to the · embroidery end following: · audio signals can be turned on and · stitches · functions · the number of repeats can be · feed-dog raised/lowered selected (for embroidery) ·...
  • Page 62 Setup Program Changing the basic thread tension setting The basic tension setting of the artista changed again, even if the machine is machine applies to all stitches of the turned off. machine. The tension is factory set for Changing the tension setting in the best possible sewing results using a Setup program will affect all stitches 100 weight, 3 ply polyester thread...
  • Page 63 Setup Program Start screen on and off Setup menu · press the external Setup button · menu appears · touch Start Screen Turn start screen off Turn start screen on · start screen appears · touch on · the start screen can be turned on or ·...
  • Page 64 Setup Program Sewing light Setup menu · press the external Setup button, menu appears · select Sewing Light Switch light on/off · touch on · light will be on continuously when machine is turned on · touch off · light will not come on at all Save and close ·...
  • Page 65 Setup Program Version information · the version of software in the · version screen appears sewing machine and in the embroi- · shows the version of software dery module must be the same for loaded into the artista sewing optimum results machine ·...
  • Page 66 Setup Program Embroidery hoop adjustment This adjustment calibrates the needle activated if the embroidery module is to the center of the embroidery hoop. attached The hoop adjustment can only be Setup menu · press the external Setup button · menu appears ·...
  • Page 67: Eco (Ecological) Function

    Setup Program / eco function Screen contrast The contrast of the screen can be adjusted for easier viewing. Setup menu · press the external Setup button, menu appears · touch contrast (lower right of screen) · contrast screen appears Adjust contrast ·...
  • Page 68: Special Accessories

    · the eco function is cleared when the machine is turned off Special Accessories The following pages offer informa- Ask your Bernina dealer for more tion about additional accessories and details! attachments available for the artista sewing machine. These accessories...
  • Page 69 Special Accessories Embroidery module Embroidery module selected, they appear on the screen (special accessory) and can be sewn immediately. The embroidery module is a wonder- You can position, mirror image, ful addition to your sewing machine, enlarge and reduce the motifs. offering you unlimited possibilities to use your imagination and creativity Additional embroidery motifs, cover-...
  • Page 70 · select and sew the same as for stitches programmed on the embroidery module. PC Embroidery Software (optional accessory) BERNINA Embroidery Software which The finished creations are transferred allows you to combine, mirror image, directly via a connecting cable (9-pin resize and embellish existing motifs.
  • Page 71 Needle, thread, fabric feed Important facts about sewing machine needles Sewing machine, needle and thread Needle/ Your Bernina uses needle system 130/705H. thread table 110–120 Needle and thread The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70–120. The Darning thread finer the needle, the lower the number. The table shows you which needle is suitable for which threads.
  • Page 72 Needle, thread, fabric feed Important facts about sewing machine needles Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used. Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer. Needle table Description Needle point Suitable for Standard 130/705H Normal point,...
  • Page 73 Needle, thread, fabric feed Feed-dog and fabric feed Feed-dog and stitch length are short. The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step. even at full sewing speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and The length of this step is determined by the stitch length some decorative stitches are sewn with a very short stitch selected.
  • Page 74 Cleaning, Maintenance, Troubleshooting Cleaning If the machine is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a warm room about 1 hour before use. Cleaning Cleaning the hook Lubricating Periodically remove thread lint and · power switch to “0” ·...
  • Page 75: Troubleshooting

    · use the correct spool disc · machine has been standing in a cold room · stitch plate or hook tip damaged – take your machine · bobbin winder engaged to your BERNINA ® dealer Machine sews in reverse Lower thread breaks ·...
  • Page 76: Glossary Of Terms

    Glossary of terms Glossary of terms check · to preview the contents of a memory bank clr (clear) · remove or restore settings, back to basic settings cursor · on-screen positioning marker (vertical line) · used in memory for marking deletions, insertions, etc. customized ·...
  • Page 77: Index

    Index Index · securing end of stitch · sub-division Accessory box · tension Alphabets/numbers 38–39 Embroidery cards 69–70 · alter size Embroidery module · monogram sizes External stitch buttons 21–22 · programming · alphabet button Alphabet programming functions · buttonhole button ·...
  • Page 78 Index · Functions, programming 59–60 · Functions in Setup Maintenance, cleaning · Motor speed Memory 39–44 · Needle position · Corrections in memory 42–43 · Personal program 56–58 · Deleting memory · Return to basic settings · Functions · Leave Setup ·...
  • Page 79 Sewing Manual artista 180...
  • Page 81 Contents 2–5 Straight stitch, Zig-zag Altered memory 7–11 Practical stitch seams 12, 13 Sewing knits Zippers Long stitch function Basting stitch Blind hem 18, 19 Elastic, cord Bartack program 21–28 Buttonholes Button sew-on program Eyelets 31–34 Mending/darning Decorative stitches Cross stitches 37–39 Quilt stitches Decorative stitches combined with functions...
  • Page 82 Straight stitch Straight stitch Stitch: Straight Stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Straight stitch · the machine is ready to sew as soon as it is turned on ·...
  • Page 83 Straight stitch Securing stitch Stitch: Securing stitch No. 5 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Securing program · for all fabrics · secures beginning and end of seam ·...
  • Page 84 Straight stitch Edge stitching Stitch: Straight Stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or cordonnet (topstitching) Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Blindstitch Foot No. 5 or Edgestitch Foot No.10/10C (optional accessory) Narrow edge stitching Needle position...
  • Page 85 Zig-zag Zig-zag stitch Stitch: Zig-zag No. 2 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Zig-zag applications · for all fabric types · for finishing raw edges ·...
  • Page 86 Personal (altered) Memory Altered Memory Stitch: Any selected stitch Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Altered Memory · for all stitches and fabrics ·...
  • Page 87 Practical stitch seams Practical stitch seams Open seams Seams which are pressed open · seam allowance width as wide as desired · seam lies flat · seam does not stretch Suggested stitches: · straight, narrow zigzag, super stretch, and triple zigzag Application: ·...
  • Page 88 Practical stitch seams Triple Straight Stitch seam Stitch: Triple Straight Stitch No. 6 Needle: 80–90 universal or jeans Thread: polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Open seam · durable seam for firm and densely woven fabrics such as denim and corduroy ·...
  • Page 89 Practical stitch seams Vari-overlock seam Stitch: Vari-overlock No. 3 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2A Closed seam · stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock Sewing ·...
  • Page 90 Practical stitch seams Stretch overlock seam/Reinforced overlock seam Stitch: Stretch Overlock No. 13 or Reinforced Overlock No. 19 Needle: universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Closed seam ·...
  • Page 91 Practical stitch hems Hems with practical stitches Preparation · fold and press hem; baste if desired Sewing · sew hem at desired depth (right side) · trim excess fabric (wrong side) Visible hem with Jersey stitch Stitch: Jersey stitch No. 14 Needle: universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed Thread:...
  • Page 92 Sewing knits Sewing knits Important tips for sewing knit fabrics Start with a new needle · blunt needles can damage knits Use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S) if necessary · the needle point slides easily between the fibers Use a fine sewing thread ·...
  • Page 93 Sewing knits Ribbing with overlock seam Stitch: Vari-overlock No. 3 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2A Ribbing with overlock seam · for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber knits Preparation ·...
  • Page 94 Zippers Zippers Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the type of fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Zipper foot No. 4 Needle position: far right or far left Preparation: ·...
  • Page 95 Long stitch Long stitch function This function works with the straight stitch to produce a longer than usual stitch. The machine sews every second stitch when the Long stitch function is activated. The longest stitch possible is 10 mm when the stitch length is set at 5mm. For decorative top stitching, the Long stitch function can be combined with Triple Straight stitch.
  • Page 96 Basting stitch Basting stitch This feature is a stitch rather than a function (such as the long stitch). When this stitch (No. 21) is selected, the machine stitches a straight stitch, sewing every fourth one. The longest stitch possible is 20 mm when the stitch length is set at 5mm.
  • Page 97 Blind hem Blind hem Stitch: Blindstitch No. 9 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or silk Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Blindstitch foot No. 5 Blind hem · for invisible hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool and mixed fiber fabrics Preparation ·...
  • Page 98 Elastic, cord Sewing on narrow elastic with Universal stitch Stitch: Universal stitch No. 15 Stitch width: depends on width of elastic Needle: type and size to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No.
  • Page 99 Elastic, cord Sewing on wide elastic Stitch: Running stitch No. 4 or Sewn-out Zig-zag No. 16 or Lycra stitch No. 17 Stitch length: adjust to suit elastic Needle: size and type to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot:...
  • Page 100 Bar tack program Bartack program Stitch: Bartack program No. 24 or Buttonhole bartack No. 25 Needle: size and type to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or rayon Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Bartack program ·...
  • Page 101 Buttonholes Important information on buttonholes Thread tension · the tension is set automatically when a buttonhole is selected · the upper tension is slightly looser than normal · this gives a slightly rounded appearance to the beads, making the buttonhole more attractive Manual buttonholes ·...
  • Page 102 Buttonholes Corded Buttonhole · gimp cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance · the loop of the cord should be at the end of the buttonhole most subject to wear or where the button is sewn on · position the work accordingly ·...
  • Page 103 Buttonholes Hooking the cord in the automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A · insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole · raise the presser foot · guide the cord under the foot to the right · hook the cord over the pin at the back of the foot ·...
  • Page 104 Buttonholes Straight stitch buttonholes Straight stitch buttonholes are useful as a foundation for satin stitched buttonholes on soft and loosely woven fabrics that fray easily. The buttonhole beads and bartacks of the second (satin stitched) buttonhole will cover the straight stitching. They are also good for stitching bound buttonholes and reinforcing buttonhole openings on leather, vinyl, and felt.
  • Page 105 Buttonholes Automatic buttonholes (all types) Both beads are sewn in the same direction. Buttonhole lenght = buttonhole opening in mm Stretch buttonholes are particularly effective on all knit fabrics because the double overlock stitch used for the beads stretch with the fabric while keeping its shape. Note: The automatic buttonhole foot 3A must lie perfectly flat on the fabric.
  • Page 106 Buttonholes Automatic round and keyhole buttonholes Both beads are sewn in the same direction. Buttonhole lenght = buttonhole opening in mm Stitch: Round buttonholes 54–55 and keyhole buttonholes 56–58 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot:...
  • Page 107 Buttonholes Stitch counter buttonholes for all buttonhole types (can not be saved in memory) The first (left) bead is sewn forwards, the second (right) bead is sewn in reverse. Stitch: Buttonholes (all types) Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog:...
  • Page 108 Buttonholes Manual 4/6-step buttonholes (all types) Sewing buttonholes manually is ideal if you only need to sew one; also for repairing existing buttonholes. The number of steps depends on the type of buttonhole. A manually sewn buttonhole cannot be saved. Stitch: any buttonhole Needle:...
  • Page 109 Button sewing-on program Button sewing-on program Stitch: Button sew-on program No. 60 Stitch width: depends on the distance between the holes Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: down (darning position) Presser foot: Button sew-on foot No.
  • Page 110 Eyelets Zigzag Eyelets Stitch: Zig-zag Eyelet No. 61 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or rayon Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Zig-zag Eyelet · ideal opening for cords and narrow ribbons ·...
  • Page 111 Darning, mending Elastic Edges Stitch: Zig-zag stitch No. 2 Stitch width: approximately 5mm Stitch length: 1mm – 1.5mm Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Elastic edges ·...
  • Page 112 Darning, mending Reinforced edges on woven fabrics Stitch: Honeycomb stitch No. 8 or Running stitch No. 4 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: lightweight darning thread Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Reinforcing edges ·...
  • Page 113 Darning Automatic darning Stitch: Simple Darning Program No. 22 or Reinforced Darning Program No. 23 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: lightweight darning thread Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Preparation ·...
  • Page 114 Darning Manual darning Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: lightweight darning thread Feed-dog: down (darning position) Presser foot: Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory) Darning holes or worn areas · replaces threads with the lengthwise and the crosswise grains in all fabrics Preparation ·...
  • Page 115 Decorative stitches Decorative stitches Stitch: 9 mm wide decorative stitches Needle: embroidery needle in a size suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse Pattern foot No. 1C or Open Embroidery Foot No. 20C Embroidery foot No.
  • Page 116 Cross stitches Cross stitches Stitch: Cross stitches Nos. 301–309, 314 or Cross stitch No. 310 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Embroidery Foot No. 20C Cross stitch ·...
  • Page 117 Quilt stitches Hand-look quilt stitch Stitch: Quilt stitches No. 328, 346–350 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Upper thread: monofilament Bobbin thread: 30 weight, 2 ply cotton Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Walking foot No.
  • Page 118 Quilt stitches Decorative quilt stitches Stitch: Quilt stitches Nos. 326–338, 351 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Straight stitch No. 326 ·...
  • Page 119 Quilt stitches Freehand quilting Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or monofilament Feed-dog: down (darning position) Presser foot: Darning foot No. 9 or Quilting foot No. 29C Freehand quilting · for all freehand quilt work Preparation ·...
  • Page 120 Combining decorative stitches with functions Using decorative stitches with functions Stitch: 9 mm decorative stitches Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Open Embroidery foot No.
  • Page 121 Practical and decorative stitches in memory Practical and decorative stitches in memory · the memory capacity is 1023 individual stitch patterns · the memory has 255 banks · each bank can be sub-divided as desired · most practical and decorative stitches as well as letters and numbers can be combined, programmed, and saved in memory ·...
  • Page 122 Practical and decorative stitches in memory Stitch combination as single repeat · select a memory bank following the directions on the previous page · touch stitch 409 one time · touch stitch 616 two times · on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 2 ·...
  • Page 123 · select a memory bank following the directions above · press the external alphabet button · touch the block letter alphabet · touch the appropriate letters to spell “BERNINA” · on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 1 · begin stitching; the letters will continuously stitch, automatically stopping after the “A”...
  • Page 124 16 directions 16 direction sewing Stitch: Straight stitch No.1 or Zig-zag No. 2 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40 16 direction sewing ·...
  • Page 125 16 directions Connecting stitch patterns Stitch: Straight stitch No. 39 Function: Long stitch Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or rayon Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40 16 direction straight stitch as connecting threads ·...
  • Page 126 4 directions 4 direction sewing Stitch: Stitches No. 41–48 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Sideways motion foot no. 40 Automatic sewing in 4 directions · sew in 4 directions without turning the fabric ·...
  • Page 127 Sideways motion stitches Sideways motion stitches – Outline Designs Stitch: Sideways motion stitches/monograms Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40 Sideways motion stitches ·...
  • Page 128 Sideways motion stitches External button · press the external Decorative stitch button · press the external Alphabet button for monograms Screen · select any of the motifs marked with crossed arrows · or select monograms Sewing · using the template mark the beginning of the stitch on the fabric ·...
  • Page 129 Sideways motion stitches Sideways motion stitches in memory Sideways motion stitches in memory · all sideways motion stitches and monograms can be programmed and saved in memory; however, they cannot be sewn in sequence like decorative stitches · the beginning and ending points of sideways motion stitches vary considerably and are sometimes within the stitch itself Combining sideways motion stitches and monograms...
  • Page 130 Balance Balance All stitches are tested and adjusted before the machine leaves the factory; however, shipping and transporting can affect the setting of the balance function. Different fabrics, threads and stabilizers can distort the stitch patterns so that they are too long (do not close properly) or too short (have a condensed appearance).
  • Page 131 Balance Balance for sideways motion stitches Fabric, thread and stabilizer all play an important role in the appearance of sideways motion stitches. Because of this, corrections are sometimes necessary. Balance · the stitch as it should look appears in the center of the left half of the screen Note: the ivy motif will be seen on-screen for all sideways motion motifs...
  • Page 132 Index Index 16 directional sewing 44, 45 4 directional sewing Honeycomb stitch edges Securing program (straight stitch) Sewing in 16 directions 44, 45 Sewing in 4 directions Sewing knits 12, 13 Auto buttonholes Sideways motion stitches Auto round and keyhole Jersey overlock seam in memory buttonholes...

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