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Vintage Model Co SOPWITH F1 CAMEL Manual
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Vintage Model Co SOPWITH F1 CAMEL Manual

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SOPWITH F1 'CAMEL'
VMC Instruction Booklet - Sopwith Camel JAN19.indd 1
19/01/2019 12:16

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Summary of Contents for Vintage Model Co SOPWITH F1 CAMEL

  • Page 1 SOPWITH F1 ‘CAMEL’ VMC Instruction Booklet - Sopwith Camel JAN19.indd 1 19/01/2019 12:16...
  • Page 2 vintagemodelcompany.com VMC Instruction Booklet - Sopwith Camel JAN19.indd 2 19/01/2019 12:16...
  • Page 3 SOPWITH F1 ‘CAMEL’ – A FEARSOME FOE Arguably the most famous and deadliest British This often ended in disaster especially for aircraft of World War One, the Sopwith F1 was inexperienced pilots. The F1 was the first British designed by Herbert Smith as a replacement for his aircraft to have guns that fired through the earlier design the Sopwith Pup.
  • Page 4 YOUR KIT This kit is designed for you to build a traditionally This type of traditional building technique and constructed, rubber powered, free flight model of flying requires a degree of patience and skill, but is a 1918 Camel of No.13 Squadron RNAS. The No. extremely rewarding.

  • Page 5: Kit Contents

    have been done with care and sensitivity so that the traditional kits, additional items required to build the shape and spirit of the original aircraft is preserved model are things that can be found in the kitchen as much as possible. Also in the spirit of the drawer or are easily available on the high street.
  • Page 6 OTHER THINGS THAT YOU WILL NEED CONSUMABLES • Glue. ‘Cyano’ (sometimes called ‘superglue’), • Tissue sealant – if you want to fly your model quick setting epoxy and a ‘glue stick’. outdoors (see ‘Covering’ for details). • Cling film or waxed paper to cover your plan or a •...
  • Page 7 THE PLAN, GENERAL BUILDING TECHNIQUES, TERMS, HINTS AND TIPS The plan provides most instructions for the • Cut through section: This is simply a way of construction of the major components. showing parts on the plan in more detail – as if you had cut through the parts on the line shown.
  • Page 8 TIPS TO MAKE A GOOD JOB OF YOUR MODEL Read and follow the instructions and the plan carefully. foil from a yoghurt pot lid. Alternatively, save pistachio nut shells – one held upright and firm • A light model will fly much better than a heavy on a piece of Blu-Tack or plasticine makes an one, so use glues and adhesives sparingly.
  • Page 9 • The balsa sheets are graded. Sheet 1 and 2 are hard after the parts are laser cut. and strong but heavy – they are used for parts where • You can work on several parts at one time. strength is in preference to weight. Sheets 3 and 4 For instance, you can make up the wheels and are weaker and softer but light and are used for parts undercarriage at the same time as something else...
  • Page 10 MAIN PARTS AND FRAMES BUILDING SCHEDULE THE CENTRE SECTION 1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser 6) From stiff 1.6mm square strip cut two top spars cut sheets: CS1, CS2, CS3, CS4 plus 2 off each that run R7 to R5 and glue one into position R5, R6, R7 and corner gussets.
  • Page 11 THE MAIN WING PANELS There are obviously two sets of wings to build. attachment of the cabane and inter-planar struts On the Camel the top and bottom wings are the etc. So follow the instructions and the plan very same overall shape, but there are differences. carefully to avoid mistakes.
  • Page 12 later, make sure that no glue goes into the slots 8) Repeat for the right hand wing panel. Leave otherwise the mating parts may not fit together both panels to set before removing them from properly later on. the building board. BOTTOM WINGS 1) Identify and remove one set of parts in the 4) Fit the inner R1 rib tilting it using the dihedral...
  • Page 13 9) Repeat for the right hand wing panel. Leave 10) Round off the leading edge of the wings and both panels to set before removing them from taper the trailing edges as shown on the plan. the building board. Carefully give the entire structures a light sanding to smooth the joints, remove lumps and bumps and the burnt edges of the laser parts.
  • Page 14 BUILDING JIGS Bi-planes are somewhat more complicated to 1) Identify and remove the parts on the laser cut sheets: CAL and CAR (1 off each). construct than a mono plane. This is due to the fact that not only have the wings and tail plane got to align 2) Referring to the cabane strut jig on the plan, cut properly, but each set of wings has to too.
  • Page 15 3) Pin down 2 off parts WD1 over the plan for 5) Once the glue is set remove the jig from the plan/ the ‘inner’ dihedral jig where shown. It is very board and mark it ‘inner’ to reduce the chance of important that the parts are pinned down a mix up later in the build.
  • Page 16 THE FIN AND RUDDER 1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser as required. When you are satisfied, glue all the cut sheets: FR1-FR7 plus a corner gusset. parts in position making sure that you have nice neat butt joints.
  • Page 17 2) Pin the two fuselage sides K1 down onto the 7) Laminate parts F1 and F2 together cross board so they are ‘mirrored’ (see sketch on the grained, making sure that the profiles and the plan) although it is not strictly necessary to pin square holes align correctly.
  • Page 18 FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY 1) As well as all of the parts as prepared in the 6) Fit and glue in position formers F4/F4A, F5 and previous steps Identify and remove all of the F5A. Using stiff 1.6mm square strip cut and glue parts on the laser cut sheets: K5, F5, F5A, F6, in position the stringers that run from F2 to F4A F6A, F7, F7A, F8, F8A, F9, F9A AND F10.
  • Page 19 11) Using stiff 1.6mm square strip fit and glue the the undercarriage to fit later. When gluing ‘backbone’ stringer in position – note that the them in place leave a gap of around 1mm (the end sits on top of F10 at the rear. Fit and glue thickness of a credit card) between them at the remaining rear stringers making them from the strengtheners on F3 and F5A, this gap will...
  • Page 20 Once these three conditions are met carefully pin 6) Allow the glue to set fully. Once dry carefully the jig to the R6’s each side – some packing pieces un-pin the wings from the jig and remove them. (made from scrap) slipped between the jigs and R6 Finally remove the jigs from the fuselage sides.
  • Page 21 THE NOSE BLOCK 1) Remove parts in the following quantities from trial fit it to the square hole in the fuselage nose, the laser cut sheets: 1 off each NB1-NB4, EC1, adjusting it to have an easy fit. Cyano adhesive 3 off EC2 and 3 off NP1.
  • Page 22 FINISHING THE FUSELAGE 1) Fit the nose block, BUT DO NOT GLUE IT 2) Sand the fuselage all over to remove the burnt IN PLACE! Then sand it to match the fuselage edges of the parts. Be careful not to over sand and to the profile as shown on the plan.
  • Page 23 7) Set the wheels and covers aside until the final 10) In parts LG4 and LG5 make a groove following assembly stage. the line etched into the parts. This is best achieved using the left over piece of wire from 8) Identify and remove parts in the following the undercarriage legs, or failing that an empty quantities from the laser cut sheets: 1 off each...
  • Page 24 COVERING Clear lacquer This is available at many DIY stores The tissue in the kit is used to provide a ‘skin’ over the balsa wood framework. The basic idea is that in spray cans. The model can be given a single coat the tissue is attached to the framework and then of it once it is built, but before the paper decals are sprayed with water and then left to dry.
  • Page 25 THE FIN, RUDDER AND TAIL PLANE 1) For the covering you will need a glue stick, gently tug and tease the tissue until there are no PVA, fine brush, scissors, an old perfume bottle wrinkles and the tissue is nice and smooth. You or fine mist sprayer and a sharp knife.
  • Page 26 7) Spray the part with a fine mist of water on both warps. Note that the tissue is very delicate when sides, then use the spacers that you ‘sticky taped’ it is wet, so handle the part at the edges and with to hold the edge of the part off the board.
  • Page 27 LOWER WINGS 1) Using the same methods as the upper wings, rib to the wing tip itself. cover the underside of each wing with one piece 3) Shrink each wing separately, pin or weigh down of tissue that runs from the root rib to the tip. the outline of each panel with spacers underneath 2) Cover the top in two pieces, the main wing panels as per the upper wings...
  • Page 28 5) Once the glue has dried, cut them from the 9) Fit part W to the fuselage using a glue stick and tissue sheet, leaving extra all the way round as PVA at the edges. It should wrap around F1/F2 indicated by the dotted lines on the plan.

  • Page 29: Final Assembly

    FINAL ASSEMBLY 1) If you want to draw on the control surfaces, do so 7) Once the glue on the cabane struts has dried, now using a fine marker or strips of black paper locate the left hand bottom wing to the top one referring to the chain dashed lines on the plan.
  • Page 30 13) Glue the tail plane in position, making sure it is Add the wheel covers, checking to make sure square, true and in line with the wings. that they do not foul on the ends of the axle. 14) Glue the fin and rudder in place, ensuring it is 18) Cut out the windscreen from the thicker acetate properly located on the tail plane and at right sheet, trial fit and then glue it in position.
  • Page 31 TRIMMING AND FLYING YOUR MODEL When flying your model, choose a large area experienced free flight modellers who have websites free from any obstructions. Do not fly it towards dedicated to the subject or post information on people or property. numerous on-line forums.
  • Page 32 TO MAKE UP AND FIT THE MOTOR The motor consists of the rubber strip provided. hole in the nose. Wetting the rubber makes it easier This strip is more refined than that used in rubber to tie a knot, however, do not pull the knot too tight bands and is very stretchy, allowing it to hold lots otherwise it can tear.
  • Page 33 TEST GLIDES Choose a calm, dry day if you are trimming your Gently throw your model towards an imaginary model outdoors. This is a small model and slight point on the floor about 7-8 metres in front of you gusts and disturbances will make it hard to judge into any wind.
  • Page 34 POWERED FLIGHTS Wind up the motor with approximately 50 turns spirals in, then add an acetate tab to the lower (wind clockwise looking at the front of the model) left hand wing and bend it down a little. Gradually and launch it into the direction of the wind (if increase the turns on the motor in steps of 50 turns present).
  • Page 35 THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING A VINTAGE MODEL COMPANY KIT We hope that you have enjoyed building and flying your model. Be sure to collect and build the whole range, available from many high street gift shops or direct from our website www.vintagemodelcompany.com where you will also find a wide range of modelling accessories and tips.

  • Page 36: Building Notes

    BUILDING NOTES Use this sheet for notes during your build vintagemodelcompany.com VMC Instruction Booklet - Sopwith Camel JAN19.indd 36 19/01/2019 12:16...
  • Page 37 BUILDING NOTES Use this sheet for notes during your build Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’ VMC Instruction Booklet - Sopwith Camel JAN19.indd 37 19/01/2019 12:16...

  • Page 38: Flight Log

    FLIGHT LOG Keep a log of your flight durations here vintagemodelcompany.com VMC Instruction Booklet - Sopwith Camel JAN19.indd 38 19/01/2019 12:16...
  • Page 39 Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’ VMC Instruction Booklet - Sopwith Camel JAN19.indd 39 19/01/2019 12:16...
  • Page 40 vintagemodelcompany.com vintagemodelcompany.com VMC Instruction Booklet - Sopwith Camel JAN19.indd 40 19/01/2019 12:16...

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