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Thank you for purchasing ME163"Komet" from www.Rbckits.com
For the first time, R/C enthusiasts we have a choice in scale and fun flyer aircraft designs.
Our goal, through computer technology and state-of-the-art production techniques, is to offer aircraft
which in the past have not been modelled simply because they weren't popular enough to justify mass
production. Our production techniques allow us to produce aircraft which, though not as popular and
well known as P-51s and P-47s, still offer historical significance (good or bad!), Good looks and flying
characteristics, and a uniqueness that is sure to turn heads wherever you take your airplane!
Your airplane has many unique features in its design:
CAD Design
CAD design allows strength to be built into the airplane without sacrificing weight. Accurate parts
design and placement ensures a perfect fit.
CAD Drawn Plans
The plans in this kit are not copied from a master set! They are originals drawn directly from the CAD
program where the airplane was designed. We do this because it allows us to use colour, which helps
you better visualize the various components of the airplane, and we can use better quality paper,
which greatly reduces the possibility of shrinkage.
Since you're going to build directly on the plans, they ought to be the proper size! Also, parts
placement is guaranteed to be accurate, so you can build a better, straighter model.
Small and hard-to-produce parts are simply a computer file away, so you get a more accurate airplane.
Lightening Holes
Lightening holes are cut into all ribs and formers where possible and justified. This allows us to keep
the weight on each plane to a minimum without sacrificing strength.
The same program that generates the design and plans also drives the cnc cutter, so every part is
reproduced exactly as it was designed. cnc cutting also allows us to fit more parts on each sheet of

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Summary of Contents for RBC kits Komet

  • Page 1 Thank you for purchasing ME163"Komet" from www.Rbckits.com For the first time, R/C enthusiasts we have a choice in scale and fun flyer aircraft designs. Our goal, through computer technology and state-of-the-art production techniques, is to offer aircraft which in the past have not been modelled simply because they weren’t popular enough to justify mass production.
  • Page 2 PETG General Building Information The ME163"Komet" can be built by a person with average building skills. It is designed for someone who has built a trainer or low wing sport plane. No unusual building techniques are required, although more difficult areas are explained in detail where necessary.
  • Page 3 Wheels as on the drawing, controls, motor, battery etc. All vacuumformings should be roughened up before gluing A picture says more as a 1000 words so do look at the pictures on the cd Vertical stabilizer: Is build in two halves that are joined later Place cnc cut parts on the drawing, place leadineg and trailing edges cut from the supplied balsa as per drawing and sand the hnge lines flat with the ribs, do not sand the leading edge yet .
  • Page 4 Sand tip clean edges , cut hinge line and sand to shape, ad the 10x3 spruce joiner Place hinges make sure for smooth movement in conjunction with the steering cables and horns. Wings: Start with a flat building board with the size for the wing and fuselage Place the drawing of the wing on the building board and protect it with plastic.
  • Page 5 Make the sheeting as per plan, do make a bit oversize . take out all ribs and formers out of their sheets , you can mark the formers with a soft pencil if you like , sand of all holding tabs. PLacemain formers and place ribs , check the drawing for the correct position of the Formers Mark the main-formers ribs on the bottom sheeting, place main-formers on sheeting place ribs , do not glue yet , make sure for straightness .
  • Page 6 if all seems ok then pin down the main former and start glueing the ribs with thin ca one by one to the bottom sheeting, note roll the ribs over the sheeting and apply ca Place sub leading edge to the bottom sheeting and to the ribs. Place ailevon leading edge between the ribs to the bottom sheeting.
  • Page 7 Now pin down the outer wing panel on the X marked spots , Place the help-former as displayed on the drawing (Note for only speedy flying you can make a 0,5 degree less washout , use the speed washout setting then, ), make them from 6x12 balsa , important is that they all have the same height, this will give the correct washout, place then under the trailing edge as per drawing and pin down the wing bottom on the X markings and the at the helpformer position as on the drawing.
  • Page 8 Clean up the edges of the wing and place leading edge sand leading edge to shape as per plan , place wing-tips and take out ailerons and sand edges as per plan. Sand tip step by step, flatten first then round it of nicely When sanded cut out ailevons , you did make small cuts from the top before it was sheeted ?
  • Page 9 Sand leading edge to shape and clean edges use the supplied hinges for the ailevons they are easy and do perform very well, but do pin them with needles or a toothpin and ca. place hinges, place servo arm and make opening in aileron for the horns, center servo and aileron and glue in horns we used very secure Z-Bends.
  • Page 10 Fuselage : Is build in two halves on the drawing . Place formers step by step one by one without glue , pin the mid formers to the building board It is a but puzzling , fit formers one by one When Former F11 is added and alignment is ok you can slowly ad some glue points to this.
  • Page 11 Work formers up to the tail section , if all alignment is ok the use thin ca to fasten the formers. Start with a 2x12 strip to give a bit stability to the fuselage. also place the 3mm bottom sheeting strip 3x12mm Take of fuselage halves from the building board .
  • Page 12 Use clamps and pins to join halves , making sure for straightness Former F2B is placed in the fuselage to F2 Note that F2b has the M3 and M4 nuts glued in before placing to the fuselage F16 and F24 is also placed Place bottom formers and scrap sheeting bottom nose part.and sand to match the formers As the fuselage sheeting is glued to that parts Make up the canopy formers (note the kit parts look different), place temporarly canopy closing and...
  • Page 13 Now we can place the assembly and make upthe turtle back of the fuselage. place formers and 3x6 stringers, there is a angle at the canopy former see the drawing Place layer of 3mm balsa sheeting on top and sand to edges Sand the bottom edges and start sheeting with strips of 2x12 balsa , shorten them the leftovers are needed to.
  • Page 14 Place the rudder and test fit wing joiner for all angles . Place tailwheel steering tube also. Now ad the sheeting strip by strip , even on each side , you might need to taper some strips or even wet some for easyer bending if neccesary The sheeting is overlapping the side former F11, that is a little edge sanded., Turtleback sheeting also...
  • Page 15 with strips leftovers. Place top 3mm sheet to fuselage and fin take out a small piece to form over the fin. The bottom sheeting is also build up in some parts Place nose fill with some scrap balsa and sand to shape, also for fin fairing Sand complete fuselage and fill all open edges with lightweigt filler, we thinned down the filler with water and brushed it up, after dryine it sands of easy with 60gritt sand paper...
  • Page 16 Leaving only the filler in the depth spots, adding almost no weight Place the wings to the fuselage with the 6x15 spruce joiner and the 6mm aligning dowels Check for straightnes or twist , look from behind and check the alignment of the traiking edges, they should be equal, if not adjust with the opening of the alignment dowel untill it is straight and in line with the other wing.
  • Page 17 Place the formers F12 A,B,C to wing joiner and F12, use slow glue Join the servo frame , note that the kit version has a 6x15 battery strip glued in F12 and F15 see the drawing Cut out the wing fairings along the lines , the small back fairing fits into the large parts , it might be easy to glue the back fairing into the large frontfairing before fitting all onto the fuselage and wing, cut...
  • Page 18 out as much as you need, there is a left and a right side fairing the writing is on the wing section of the fairing and a L is on the small fairing surplus midpiece. Test fit and glue to wing and fuselage, finish with ultralight filler and sand Place rudder steering cable through fuselage, straight line from nose to back Bend 2mm steel wire for tailwheel , glue a short piece of steering cable into the rudder to take the...
  • Page 19 Befor placing rudder, solder a 2,2mm ring to the steel wire to take the landing load of the tailwheel, a scrp piece of wood is placed between the tube and ring this makes for enough free space Now bend the steel wire use 2 pliers taking care not to ruin the fuselage, after this you can place the rudder to the fin Make up the canopy, place formers and hooks paint all black before gluing the canopy...
  • Page 20 Test fit canopy on assembly and carefull cut surplus of canopy for a good fit to fuselage and canopy formers, we used cellotape to hold canopy and ca to glue to formers Landing gear dump unit: Make the cross with the axel retainers, make the 2mm mild steel slot wire and glue with epoxy to cross, place short piece of 4mm dowel into cross, dowels are slightly tapered for light fit...
  • Page 21 Make the dump unit from F9 and 3x3 spruce and the servo blocks , adjust them for your servo, glue canopy closing with epoxy to F9 , solder a ,22 mm ring to the canopppy closing arm to hold the steering wire , bend this from 1,2mm steel , test all do test fit for free movement of the servo and fasten to fuselage with the 2,9x13mm fasteners Place the pre bend axel to the cross and fasten with the landing gear straps and fasten with the 2,9x13...
  • Page 22 Place cowl onto fasteners the small v cut into F1 is the top side, twist clockwise and do try for some play, screw in or out the mv for a good fit to fuselage Finishing: The whole airframe is covered in 25gr glass and doped with filler dope, DO NOT USE SHRINKING DOPE EVER.
  • Page 23 .. it is in your fingers If you need additional pictures, just ask. Have Fun with the ME163"Komet" WWW.RBCKITS.COM Rontgenweg 16G...

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Me163