Related Manuals for Mercedes-Benz Automatic Climate Control System II
Summary of Contents for Mercedes-Benz Automatic Climate Control System II
- Page 1 Mercedes Automatic Climate Control System II: Installation Manual and General Information All rights reserved.
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Page 2: Before Installation
Before Installation: -My installation took about two hours to complete. -Ensure that all fuses are in good condition, and not corroded or knocked out of place. -You’d be surprised how often a faulty fuse causes the whole system to fail. -Start the car and cycle through every climate control setting. -
Page 3: What's Included
What’s Included (1) New electronic control unit with five vacuum hoses attached (1) Heater core “hot water” vacuum valve (1) Copper tube (1) 5/8” to 3/4” radiator hose coupler (2) Hose clamps (1) 3/4” Diameter radiator hose (3) Quick-connect cables for servo amplifier bypass (1) 4-Way vacuum hose connector (1) 1/8”... -
Page 4: How It Works
How it Works The purpose of the Mercedes Automatic Climate Control II system is for the car to regulate the fan speed and heater valve positions to maximize the passenger’s comfort, based on the inputs from the thumbwheel. In the original design, the a/c compressor is constantly running and is mixed with varying levels of heat to reach the desired temperature in the cabin. -
Page 5: Plan For Installation
Plan for Installation **Ensure the car is off and cold before working! Also, disconnect the battery.** -Make note of any vacuum issues before installing the update kit. 1) Remove the glove box to gain access to the amplifier-connector. 2) Following the diagram, install three jumper wires across ports on the amplifier- connector. - Page 6 Make Note of any Vacuum Leaks Before Installation -Make sure you correct any vacuum leaks you are aware of before installing the update kit, as they will hinder the function of your new kit. If finding and fixing vacuum leaks is above your comfort level, consider taking your vehicle to a trusted mechanic to have the vacuum system tested.
- Page 7 Step #1: Remove the Glovebox **Please note plastic fasteners on these old cars are brittle and tired. They will break if you use too much force. 1) Around the perimeter of the glovebox, you will find up to seven two-piece plastic fasteners.
- Page 8 Step #2: Bypassing the Amplifier 1) Locate the climate control amplifier. On the R107 chassis, it is located in the back left of the glovebox cavity (steering wheel side). For the other models, it is located on the back right side (fender side). 2) The amplifier is held in by two Phillips head screws.
- Page 9 Steps #3, #4, and #5: Pulling the Servo 1) Remove the Phillips head screw in the middle of the vacuum block attached to the top of the servo. Then slide the vacuum block out of the servo. 2) Slide both wiring connectors off the servo. Set aside for later. 3) Loosen the hose clamps holding the coolant hoses onto each of the four ports on the bottom of servo (do not remove the hoses yet).
- Page 10 Steps #6 and #7: Installing the Copper Tube and the Valve 1) Referring back to the image on page #9, separate the “return” and “source” sides. 2) Quickly pull the stoppers from the two return lines (one at a time), and use the provided copper pipe to connect the two lines.
- Page 11 Steps #6 and #7: Installing the Copper Tube and the Valve (Photos and Details) (You will likely loose coolant during this process, which is not optimal, but you will add coolant to the coolant-tank at the end, so it the system should bleed the limited air out.) All rights reserved.
- Page 12 Step #8: Control Unit Vacuum Source 1) The dark green vacuum line coming out of the new central control unit will be the kit’s vacuum source. This must be connected to a constant source of vacuum, for example the vacuum reservoir line. See steps #2 or #3 for adequate vacuum sources. 2) (for w116 and w123 only) Behind the brake booster, you will find a three-way connection between a yellow line, black line, and grey line.
- Page 13 Steps #9 and #10: Vacuum Accessory Connections 1) The white vacuum line coming out of the new central control unit slides onto the fitting onto of the hot water vacuum valve you previously installed. 2) See the diagram of the connector removed from the servo unit below: -Push/ connect the blue line from the new central control unit into port #8.
- Page 14 Steps #9 and #10: Vacuum Accessory Diagram All rights reserved.
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Page 15: Step #11: Connect The Wiring Harness
Step #11: Connect the Wiring Harness 1) Locate the two wiring connectors you removed from the servo. 2) Remove the four screws holding the top onto the new central control unit included in the kit. Identify the 10 harness connector pins at the bottom of the board. From the perspective of the 10 pins at the bottom of the board (solenoids at the “top”), the pin on the far left is pin #1 and the pin on the far right is pin #10. - Page 16 Step #11: Connecting the Wiring Harness Diagram Cable Connectors Board All rights reserved.
- Page 17 Step #12: Securing the Central Control Unit 1) Once you have attached all vacuum lines (plus double checked your connections) and fastened the two wiring harnesses to the pins on the board, you are ready to attach the new central control unit to the servo bracket. 2) Using the plastic cable ties provided, slip them through the holes in the central control unit case and the holes in the bracket where the servo once mounted.
- Page 18 Step #13: Tidying and Testing 1) Using cable ties provided, organize the vacuum lines and wires in a clean manner. Make sure there are no vacuum lines in the way of moving parts, or against hot surfaces (such as the exhaust manifold). 2) Double check the amplifier jumper wires.
- Page 19 Step #13: Tidying and Testing 5) When interior is getting close enough to the desired cold setting, the blower motor should slow down. When the blower motor slows, raise the dial to 75 degrees. Carefully watching under the hood, you should see the hot water valve pulsing within a few minutes.
- Page 20 Step #13: Tidying and Testing (Continued) (Blower motor question continued) controls whether or not the blower motor can get power on non defrost settings. Once you bypass it, so long as the ignition is on, your blower motor will run. If you cannot possibly find the vacuum leak, you can install a toggle switch between the wiring harness bypass wire to manually control when the blower is allowed to receive power or not.
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