Useful Links The latest version of this doc and BOM can always be found at http://thonk.co.uk/documents/eq/ A build thread on the Muffwiggler DIY forum can be found at this URL Quickstart If you're new to building with SMD components, skip to the detailed notes on the next page.
Recommended Tools To work with surface mount devices, such as those used in this kit, it's a good idea to have the following tools to hand: • Soldering iron with a small tip. A 1-2mm chisel or point tip is preferable. •...
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Introduction to working with Surface Mount Components This section isn't meant to be a definitive guide to working with surface mount technologies. You'll find plenty of tutorials online for that. This is intended to provide some tips as to how to approach building this kit.
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Install one component type & value at a time. Many of these components are not labelled with their values, so don't mix them up. Finish one component type & value before proceeding to the next. Don't rush. Regularly inspect your work with the magnifying glass or loupe. Clean your work as you go.
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The Kit Illustration 4: SimpleEQ 1206 kit with white panel The PCB: Illustration 5: PCB top view Illustration 6: PCB bottom view MTM SimpleEQ 1206 build doc v1.3 Page 7...
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The Build We'll start with the resistors. Find the bag that's marked “10K x4 R1 R2 R3 R4” & remove the component tape strip containing the four resistors. As described above, open up the tape strip by removing the clear film cover, tipping it's contents into a suitable container.
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Pick up one of the resistors using the tweezers, & place the ends of the resistor centrally over the two pads. Notice how much clearance you have around the outside of the resistor on the pads. When you solder the resistor in place, you'll want to get similar clearance. Illustration 10: SMD resistor located centrally on pads Using the tweezers, place the resistor back in the bowl.
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Take one of the resistors in the tweezers, ensuring the side of the resistor with the value marking is pointing upwards. Re-apply the soldering iron tip to the pad with the solder on it, & quickly slide one side of the resistor onto the pad, so that the edge of the resistor is lined up on the middle of the pad, and the resistor is approximately covering equal parts of both pads, as you practiced previously.
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Illustration 12: resistor soldered to both pads If you put too much solder on either pad, you can remove this using solder braid. Carefully place the braid on top of the solder blob, & briefly apply the soldering iron so the braid soaks up the solder.
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Illustration 14: R1 after cleaning Now install resistor R2 using the same procedure as you've just done for R1 - Blob of solder on one pad ; Install the resistor ; Solder the other pad. Then repeat this for R3 & R4. After which the board should look something like this: Now install the rest of the resistors ...
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With all the resistors installed, the board should look something like this: It's a good idea now to clean up the board & then give it an inspection to check everything you've installed looks OK. Use the same cleaning technique that you used for R1. Now use a magnifier glass or jewellers loupe to inspect your solder joints.
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Once you're happy with the placement of the resistors, it's time to progress on to the ceramic capacitors. As with the resistors, these are non-polarised, meaning they can be oriented in either direction on the PCB. Unlike the resistors, you'll notice that these are not flat, but have a square profile.
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Now solder the capacitor as you did for the resistors, one pad at a time. Illustration 17: 100n ceramic capacitor C1 soldered on both pads Now install the rest of the ceramic capacitors: 2 x 22pF capacitors C4 & C6 2 x 33nF capacitors C3 &...
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Note that the colour and the markings of the fuses shipped in the Thonk kit may differ from the ones pictured in this build guide.
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Next, install the two 1N5819 diodes, D1 & D2. Remove the diodes from the tape, & place them in the bowl. You'll notice that unlike the resistors and capacitors you've installed already, these diodes have a metal tab protruding outwards at an angle from the device. When you solder the diode onto the PCB, you want these metal tabs in contact with the pads on the PCB.
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On the PCB, the cathode is indicated by a line in the silk screen adjacent to one of the pads. On this PCB, the cathode for diode D1 points towards the power header, and diode D2 away from the header. Illustration 21: Surface mount diodes, showing line identifying cathode in silk screen, at top on D1, bottom on D2 So, now you know which way the diode needs to be installed on the PCB, solder them using the...
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Next we'll do the two IC's, NE5532 dual op-amps. Remove one from the tape. Take some time to inspect the device. Similar to the diodes that you just installed, you'll notice that the IC legs are bent outwards and downwards, much like the diodes you just installed. As with the diodes, you need to install the device with these legs in contact with the pads on the PCB.
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Again, before you start soldering these devices, offer one up to it's destination on the PCB. Familiarise yourself with how the device should be orientated, also how the device's pins should sit on the pads. Illustration 25: PCB silk screen for IC1 showing the dot marking the location of pin 1, and the second line for devices that have a sloping edge on the package Illustration 26: NE5532 op-amp located on the pads at IC1 prior to soldering Now it's time to solder the first IC, IC1.
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Illustration 27: IC1 pads showing the pad of pin 8 pre-soldered Gently take one of the NE5532 ICs in the tweezers. Place it on the PCB close to IC1 location, ensuring that you know which side has pin 1. Orient the IC so that it's ready to slide into place. Place the tip of the soldering iron on the outside edge of the soldered pad, so that the solder melts.
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Illustration 28: NE5532 with pin 8 soldered in location IC1 Once you're happy with the orientation of the device, it's time to solder the rest of the legs. If you're using a flux pen, apply some flux to the legs of the IC. This will help the solder flow into the joints. Start on the legs on the other side from the one you've already soldered.
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Don't worry if you accidentally solder two pins together, it's easy to do. Use the solder wick to remove the excess solder by placing the wick on top of the joined pins, & apply the tip of the soldering iron on top of the wick. Almost immediately you'll see the solder flow into the wick. Remove the soldering iron and the wick.
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Now it's time to do the through hole components that are mounted on the component side of the PCB. First install the 2x5 pin power header. Install this first as it's shorter than the electrolytic capacitors. Now install the two 47uF electrolytic capacitors, C9 and C10. These are polarised devices, so they have to be installed with the correct orientation.
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Before the panel components are installed on the “solder” side of the PCB, clean any flux residue from the header and electrolytic solder joints. Now fit the pots and the jacks. These are mounted on the reverse side of the PCB to the components.
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And thats the soldering done. All you need to do now is tighten up the nuts on the jacks and on the pots, then fit the knobs. MTM SimpleEQ 1206 build doc v1.3 Page 26...
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