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Summary of Contents for Zipp Manufacturing JAE12G2
- Page 1 Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G JAE12G A Zippkits R/C Boat Building Instructions ©2009 Zipp Manufacturing - Frankfort, New York 13340 www.zippkits.com Toll Free (866) 922-ZIPP...
- Page 2 The JAE 12G2 was designed and developed as a result of a joint venture between IMPBA Hall of Fame member Rod Geraghty, David Hall, Ron Zaker Jr. & Martin Truex Jr. The main difference between this hull and all the others is the use of sharp edges on the bottom of the sponsons and tub, as opposed to curved surfaces.
- Page 3 Tools and supplies needed to build § Sanding blocks with 80 and 150 grit paper § Drill with bits § Square § Flat file § FLAT Workbench § 1/2 ounce Medium CA glue and accelerator § Good quality 5 and 30 minute epoxy §...
- Page 4 Additional items needed to complete § .12-.20 air or water cooled Nitro engine § .150 Collet and flywheel for engine § Starting belt § .150x16 inch cable w/welded 3/16 stub shaft (Zipp 3475) § Header to fit engine § Tuned pipe §...
- Page 5 Let’s identify the parts so that we can easily find them when needed. Mark the parts that are inside other parts. 1/16 plywood parts: 1/8 plywood parts...
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Page 6: Miscellaneous Parts
Miscellaneous parts Foam parts Right sponson has 6 holes Left sponson has 2 holes Foam nose block... - Page 7 Do an inventory of all the parts, to be sure that everything is there. If anything is missing or damaged, contact us as soon as possible, so that we can get replacements to you quickly. Tub Jig We recommend that you make a jig for the tub. This can be as simple as two straight pieces of ½...
- Page 8 Let’s build the tub. First, mark the insides of the tub right and left. The sponson boom hole is toward the bottom of the tub side. Make these marks in the front portion of the sides, where it won’t be seen later. Check the fit of the bulkheads in the right tub side.
- Page 9 Assemble the tub sides on a flat surface Check the fit of the bulkheads in the left tub side. If all is well, glue the bulkheads in place one at a time, using the square from the kit. Using the square provided in the kit. Flip the tub over and lightly sand the bottom.
- Page 10 Put a layer of waxed paper over the jig. Put the tub aft bottom in the jig and set the tub onto it. Fully clamp the jig sides to the jig. Glue the tub sub nose to the very front of the tub.
- Page 11 When the tub bottom has cured, lets move on to boom tube alignment. This is probably the most critical step in the assembly, so take all the time needed to get this right. Remove the tub from the jig. Grab the two brass boom tube sleeves, and use 80 grit paper to rough the last ¼...
- Page 12 Clamp the doublers in place without glue and measure the ends of the tubes. Both sides of the tubes should be the same distance from the bench. If not, loosen the clamps and adjust the doublers until they are. If the doublers or holes now have to be sanded to fit, you must sand them and repeat the measuring process.
- Page 13 Glue in the lid frame support. This gets attached to the rear of bulkhead 2, and is flush with the lower portion of the sides. Radio box lid support glued in place behind bulkhead 2. Check the fit of the foam nose block. If all is well, glue the foam nose block in place with epoxy or poly glue.
- Page 14 Glue the forward bottom in place with epoxy. Be sure to sand the angle into the aft sheet so that it matches the tub sides. The forward bottom sheet should cover the bevel on the aft sheeting and be left square. Do not sand the rear of the forward sheeting;...
- Page 15 Find a nail or a metal rod that slips into the collet. Use this to make sure that the engine is aligned with the hole in the rear bulkhead. It should line up perfectly. If not, find out why and correct it. Mount the engine.
- Page 16 When you see the tubing change color, move the flame slowly down the tube until the whole thing is done. Put a screwdriver in one end of the tubing to hold it while you heat it. Try not to anneal the last inch or so. You can either set the hot tube on a heat proof surface (concrete will do), or you can quench it with water until cold.
- Page 17 When you finish, you should have a nice “S” tube that starts about 3/8 inch behind the engine collet, and continues past the rear of the boat (we will trim it later). Glue the shaft tube in place with epoxy and filler (to thicken).
- Page 18 Assemble the 3 parts of the ski using epoxy or CA. Ski parts ready for assembly. Glue the ski bottom onto the sides. Match the bottom sheeting to the rear end of the sides, and let the front overhang. Clamp or tape this assembly until cured.
- Page 19 Sand a sharp bevel on the front of the ski bottom sheet, so that it blends into the tub bottom. Do not glue the ski to the tub yet. Note long bevel sanded in front of ski. Servos Bolt the rudder in place. This should be as Rear of assembled ski.
- Page 20 Assemble the rudder servo tray. This is Mark on transom. Old style strut shown. made from the servo mount base, strap and the two 5/8x7x8 inch plywood blocks. Check the length of your servo, and glue the blocks in place. This tray will fit the Hitec HS-225MG servo.
- Page 21 Cut your 2-56 pushrod to length so that the rudder servo is about a half inch from the transom. Install your solder clevis or “Z” bend, attach the pushrod to the mounted servo, and put the pushrod through the hole you made. Side trimmed for servo wire clearance, We like to use a steel clevis or “Z”...
- Page 22 Bolt the throttle servo to its mount using two servo screws. Be sure to drill pilot holes so that the mount doesn’t split. Rudder servo in place. Transom block not used with Z strut. Glue these to the tub. Be sure that the servo is on the correct side for the engine you are using.
- Page 23 Remove the servos and pushrods. Nylon clevis used at metal throttle arm. Remove everything from the boat in preparation for sealing. Fit and glue the balsa tri stock to the top of the tub sides. Try to get them flush, or slightly above the sides.
- Page 24 Sand the top of the tub, so that the sheeting has a flat surface for gluing. Glue the aft lid frame in place. This frame provides the “lips” for the radio box lid. This fits in the lower portion of the aft end of the tub, sitting on the lid frame support glued to the back of bulkhead 2.
- Page 25 Shape the block to match the tub. Finish the nose block with a round, blunt nose. Pine tub nose block in place. Nice and blunt. Sponsons The sponsons are assembled in a specific Sand to match tub. order for a reason. It is not the fastest way, but it’s the only way it can be done right.
- Page 26 tube sleeves. Shove the tubes in until they stick out the other side. We don’t want any epoxy to get into the boom tube sleeves. Do the same for the 4 wood dowels. Put the inside plate in place, being sure that the tubes and dowels protrude on the other side.
- Page 27 the sheeting. This is where the strange order comes in. The sheeting is done in this order because it has to overlap in a specific way. Follow along and you won’t have any trouble. If something doesn’t seem to fit, stop and find out why.
- Page 28 sponson step. Use masking tape to hold it in place while it cures. It’s okay to repeat the steps on the other sponson. Glue R-2 to the sponson rear. Once these have cured, sand the bottom and sides of R-2 and R-1 flush. Foam sanded flush with sponson plates.
- Page 29 Glue R-5 in place with equal side overhang. Match the rear to just cover the bevel you sanded in R-4. Leave the rear of this square, just like the tub bottom. Sand the top of R-2, and glue the sponson 3 and 4 in place, with overhangs.
- Page 30 For the bottom sheeting at the nose, taper the bottom sheet so that there is no side overhang at the nose block. If you have not done so, repeat on the other sponson. Pine sponson nose block in place. Strut Mount your strut to the transom using center marks to align it.
- Page 31 The rear of the ski should line up with the rear of the transom, and the front should blend into the tub bottom. Sand the front of the ski sheeting so that it blends to nothing. Be sure the shaft tube is just touching the ski sheeting, and level with the tub bottom.
- Page 32 Finishing Sand the tub and sponsons, but be sure to leave the overhangs. Fill any holes or imperfections with wood filler. Sand everything with 150. Turn fin mounting. Seal the tub and sponsons with epoxy finishing resin or West Systems epoxy. Be sure that all wood is sealed.
- Page 33 When everything is looking good, drill a 3/32 hole through the brass boom tube sleeve and the boom tube. Put the supplied 2-56 screw and locknut in place. Do this for all 4 corners. Center the sponsons in the tub. Use boom tube clamps against the tub to keep the tubes in place.
- Page 34 allows you to put the shaft all the way into the collet, and still have a 3/16 gap between the strut and drive dog. This is needed because the flex shaft will twist slightly at high speeds, and actually get shorter. Setup Set the strut so that it is level with the tub bottom, and touching the ski bottom.
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Page 35: Center Of Gravity
servo arm. Set the carb so that it is slightly open with the trigger at neutral. Open the throttle and check to see if you get full open. If not, move the EZ connector out farther on the servo arm, farther in on the carb arm, or adjust your throttle end point in your radio until it does. - Page 36 Even then, 99% of the time an ill handling boat is either built crooked or has a turn fin issue. Running It’s better to start with a rich needle setting, and “sneak up” on the best setting. If too lean, it will simply quit. No fun with a boat. Start rich.
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Page 37: Additional Information
From the 4 pieces of ¼ tri stock, cut as shown. Also cut the 5/16 tri stock as shown. Additional information... - Page 38 International Waters Website www.intlwaters.com Excellent forum for information on nitro powered boats Solinger R/C www.solingerrc.com Custom parts for the JAE CNC mounts, rudder, etc. All designed for the JAE Note that Zippkits is a Solinger Dealer NovaRossi US www.novarossi.us Source for the extremely fast NovaRossi 12 and 21 If you have a need for speed, this is the engine you need…...
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