Related Manuals for Zipp Manufacturing I-BOX
Summary of Contents for Zipp Manufacturing I-BOX
- Page 1 N B O X / I B O X Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G A Zippkits R/C Boat BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS ©2006 Zipp Manufacturing 750 Ball Road • Frankfort, New York 13340 www.zippkits.com...
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Page 2: Table Of Contents
T able of Contents Introduction Engine Mounting Stuffing Tube S E C T I O N T H E F R A M E Supplies needed to build Equipment needed to run S E C T I O N P A I N T Building Surface Hull prep Parts identification... -
Page 3: Introduction
I B O X / N B O X Introduction Thank you for purchasing this kit. We are sure that it will provide you with many hours of enjoyment. Please take the time to read this entire manual before building this boat. - Page 4 I B O X / N B O X Purpose These boats were designed as legal hulls in the Crackerbox class. There are other restrictions such as engine, exhaust, and length of hardware. Bottom line: Read the rules before you build. It may save you time and money! The IBox was designed to be legal for IMPBA Crackerbox racing.
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Page 5: Supplies Needed To Build
I B O X / N B O X Tools and supplies needed to build: § Small wood plane (mini plane) § Sanding blocks with 80 and 220 grit paper § Drill with bits § Right angle drill or attachment §... - Page 6 I B O X / N B O X Additional items needed to complete: § Gasoline engine with 5 inch mounts § .250 Collet for engine (Zenoah type engines) § .250 24 inch cable w/welded stub shaft (Zenoah type engines) §...
- Page 7 I B O X / N B O X Before we can start building, we need to do some prep work. Good prep work will pay off later with a straight, true running boat. First, we need a flat work surface. Nothing else will do. If you don’t have a perfectly flat bench, you can make one with your piece of 12x48 plywood.
- Page 8 I B O X / N B O X...
- Page 9 We like the Great Planes 11 inch bar sanders Your life will be much easier with one of these Acid brush trimmed for fast epoxy application Use good quality epoxy and finishing resin...
- Page 10 Let’s get started. Attach the jig board to your FLAT bench (or 12x48 ply) with screws, nails, clamps or whatever you need, to make sure it’s attached to the surface. Make sure the “F” is so that you can read it. Remove bulkheads 1, 2, 3 and the (2) spines.
- Page 11 Place your two chunks of 2x4 on each side of the keel, against the bench. Drill two pilot holes in each (so they don’t split), and attach them to the jig and bench with screws or nails. These keep the keel from bending or twisting as we attach the stringers.
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Page 12: Keel
The reason for gluing, holding for a few seconds, then moving forward is because the shape of the stringer changes as you move forward. Doing it this way, the glue has not completely cured, and can be “adjusted” a little, as you bend the stringer to the next bulkhead. -
Page 13: Stringers
When that is secure, put some glue in the area where they all join, to give it a little extra strength. Time for another break. Give your beautiful boat skeleton at least 20 minutes to cure. Call your wife in to look at it. She will either say “that’s nice honey”... -
Page 14: Bottom Sheeting
Using 30 minute epoxy, mix up about 1/2 ounce. Stir very well. Using a small stick or acid brush, coat the stringers and bulkhead edges. Work quickly. Make sure that all surfaces that will touch the sheeting are coated. Try not to use so much that it runs all over. - Page 15 Push down and forward, increasing the angle as you move forward. Use the angle on the bulkheads to determine the angle that you hold the plane. When you are close with the plane, switch to fresh 80 grit on your sanding block. Match the angle of the bulkheads.
- Page 16 Start at the keel, and pull the tape tight as you attach it to the side. Use as many pieces of tape as you need, to make sure the bottom sheeting is tight to the keel, side stringers and sheeting. Look for any “crown”...
- Page 17 Put glue on the edges, and join the two box halves on the bench. Lightly sand the bottom of the box. Glue on the bottom. Lightly sand the top. Glue the radio box top on. This is the 1/8 inch Birch top. Take a break for a few minutes, so that the radio box glue joints can cure.
- Page 18 Back to the boat: Make sure that it has been at least 2 hours since you glued the bottom sheeting to the hull. With your razor saw, cut all the tabs that are holding your hull to the building jig. Lift the hull straight up, to get it out of the two blocks holding the keel.
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Page 19: Sealing Interior
Sealing Interior Now we need to seal the inside. It is vital that all exposed wood be sealed. We will also glass the rear keel area. Mix up about 2 ounces of epoxy finishing resin. You can thin the resin with about 10% acetone, so that it brushes easily. - Page 20 Trim the building tabs, and sand the bulkheads to match the top contour. Using a utility knife and 60 grit paper, cut and sand a taper on the front of the deck joiner. It should go from nothing at the front, to full thickness about 4 inches from the front.
- Page 21 Floatation Deck joiner tapered at nose. Now is the time to put floatation in the hull. DO NOT OMIT THIS STEP! Without floatation YOU WILL LOSE YOUR BOAT! Don’t ask me how I know… You can use white, pink or blue foam, pool noodles, plastic bottles, almost anything that floats.
- Page 22 Top Sheeting This is probably the most difficult step in building this boat. Take your time, and do whatever you need, to get the deck attached properly. Deck pieces taped tightly together. Top Sheeting Sand the two top sheets. Carefully sand the inside edges, as we will be gluing them together.
- Page 23 When the deck is fully cured, remove the tape and sand the seams. Determine which will be the “good” side. Cut about 20 pieces of wide tape for the next steps. A shipping tape dispenser works very well for this. Lay some newspapers on your work surface, and place the deck on the papers “good”...
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Page 24: Hatch
Hatch Remove the following parts from the sheets, and sand them smooth: Hatch halves, cockpit front, rear and sides, cockpit bottom. Make a mark 1/8 inch from the side cutout. You can use one of the cockpit sides as a gage. Cockpit front, rear and sides glued in place. - Page 25 Check the fit of the hatch in the deck opening. If it doesn’t fit, sand the hatch to fit, not the opening. Be sure to leave a 1/16 gap all around, to account for your finish (paint, clear coat, etc.). When satisfied with the fit of the hatch, glue two hatch tongues in place on the front of the hatch, two tongues to the front of the hatch opening in the...
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Page 26: Radio Box
Radio: Find the 4 pieces of ¼x1-1/2 ply, and the 4 pieces of tri stock. These are the servo mounts. Using CA, glue one piece of tri stock to each piece of ply. Make sure the two pieces are flush with each other by holding them flat against the bench while the glue dries. - Page 27 Remove everything from the radio box, and coat the inside and outside with finishing resin. Be careful not to get any buildup in the lip, where the lid seats. It will make it impossible for the lid to seal properly. To get inside the upper part, bend an acid brush about 120 degrees, and it works very well.
- Page 28 Try to make it a straight line from the rudder servo arm to the rudder arm. Skeg Mounting Sharpen the skeg. Using a file and 220 grit paper, sharpen the skeg. The front should be sharp, and the back flat. Install the skeg in to the center slot.
- Page 29 Trim Tabs Mount your trim tabs to the transom so that they are flush or just a hair up from the bottom. Also mount them so that they are 1/2inch from the outside of the hull. Turn fin The turn fin should be mounted on the extreme right side of the transom, above the trim tabs.
- Page 30 Flex cable prep: Collet drive engines: (For square drive type engines, skip to the next section). Get the flex cable, drive dog, prop and prop nut. Put the drive dog on the stub shaft, then the prop. Engage the drive dog into the prop, and slide this assembly back until the prop covers the first 2 or 3 threads on the stub shaft.
- Page 31 Stub shaft prep: Square drive type: Get the stub shaft. Put the drive dog on the stub shaft, then the prop. Push the prop into the drive dog, and slide both until the prop covers the first 2 or 3 threads on the stub shaft.
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Page 32: Engine Mounting
Center of Gravity Mount engine as far forward as possible! Engine mounting Use scraps of wood to angle it so that the collet (or square drive) points to the hull bottom, at least an inch in front of bulkhead 5. Mount the engine as low as possible, but make sure the mounts don’t touch the bottom. - Page 33 interference. Slide the stuffing tube in until it is about ½ inch away from the collet, and mark the other end about ½ inch past where it exits the bottom of the boat. Cut the stuffing tube on your mark, and roughen the outside surface with sandpaper.
- Page 34 You should have all of the blind nuts installed for the hardware at this time. Sand the tops of the rails where the radio box goes. Mix up about ½ ounce of 30 minute epoxy. With a small brush, coat the bottom of the radio box, and the tops of the rails.
- Page 35 Collet type Slide the strut onto the far end of the shaft tube, until it stops. Mark the tube, pull the strut off and measure how far it went in. Write this down. Bolt the strut on with 2 bolts. Make sure you can adjust the strut freely.
- Page 36 Cable Square type Bolt the strut on with 2 bolts. Make sure you can adjust the strut freely. The stub shaft and ferrule should be in the strut. Set the strut so that its centerline is about ½ inch below the bottom of the boat, and parallel. Adjust the shaft tube so that it is aligned with the strut.
- Page 37 Let the cable cool, then use a clean wire brush to make it shiny. Put the cable in a vice so that ½ inch is sticking straight up. Measure to be sure you have ½ inch. Put some liquid silver solder flux on the cable. We use Stay-Brite silver solder and flux (hobby shop).
- Page 38 coat of resin on all areas. Use a small acid brush to get the edges. Scrape as much resin as possible. You just want to wet the wood with resin, any excess will just have to be sanded off later. This first coat is easy, as the wood will darken as it gets wetted with resin.
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Page 39: Decals
Use a tack cloth to lightly wipe all surfaces. Spray your color coats. When cured, wet sand with 800+ and clear coat the entire hull. Make sure the clear is completely cured before final assembly. Apply your decals. Wipe the area with alcohol, allow to dry. Remove the backing from the decal. -
Page 40: Setup
Setup Adjust the strut so that its center is about ½ inch below the bottom of the hull. Try to get it about 3 degrees negative with the rear hull bottom. This means that the prop should be lower than the front of the strut. -
Page 41: Running
Running If you are using a new engine, you should run it on the stand before going to the pond. This will do several things; It will allow the engine to loosen up a little, making starting a simple matter, as well as get YOU familiar with its starting and running characteristics. - Page 42 To launch, have a helper drop the boat in level. You can give it a little gas as it gets to the water, but not too much. Most people don’t like getting sprayed with water… Let the engine warm up for 30 seconds or so before giving it full throttle.
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Page 43: Crackerbox Tuning Tools
Cracker Box tuning tools Strut: Depth- Lower to loosen the boat, higher to wet the boat. Imagine that the prop wants to always ride at the same depth in the water. If you lower the prop, you are lifting the boat out of the water. -
Page 44: Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Boat bounces in the straights- Strut too high CG too far back Speed too slow Boat blows over at high speed- CG too far back Strut not negative Boat “plows”- CG too far forward Strut too high Strut too negative Inner tabs too low Boat is very “light”... - Page 45 Initial setup: Ø Set strut parallel with bottom, and the prop centerline about ½ inch below the bottom. The strut will almost touch the bottom at this setting. Ø Use the Zipp 470 prop (or a Prather 270). Ø Trim tabs should be about 1/16 inch higher than the bottom of the hull bottom. Set the tabs parallel to the bottom with a ruler or straight edge (they will be 1/16 from the ruler).