Related Manuals for Zipp Manufacturing Bullitt Thunderboat
Summary of Contents for Zipp Manufacturing Bullitt Thunderboat
- Page 1 Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G Bullitt Thunderboat Zippkits R/C Boats BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS 2011 Zipp Manufacturing...
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Page 2: Table Of Contents
T able of Contents Introduction Purpose Shaft and Stuffing Tube Exhaust S E C T I O N P R E P A R A T I O N Deck Installation Tools & Supplies needed to build Cowling Equipment needed to run Parts identification S E C T I O N P A I N T... -
Page 3: Introduction
B U L L I T T Introduction Thank you for purchasing this kit. We are sure that it will provide you with many hours of enjoyment. Please take the time to read this entire manual before building this boat. You will become familiar with the building order, and less likely to make mistakes. -
Page 4: Purpose
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Purpose The Bullitt Thunderboat was designed based on our popular Rivett and Rockett hulls. Thunderboats are scale type hydros specifically designed for gasoline power. The Rivett/Rockett were designed as easy to build kits that are also easy to setup, and very predictable to drive. -
Page 5: Tools & Supplies Needed To Build
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Preparation Tools and supplies needed to build: Small wood plane (mini plane) Sanding blocks with 80 and 220 grit paper Drill with bits ... - Page 6 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Additional items needed to complete: Gasoline engine with 5 inch mounts .250 Collet for engine (Zipp 3440) .250 36 inch cable w/welded stub shaft (Zipp 3445) ...
- Page 7 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T First, we need a flat work surface. Nothing else will do. Put your 3/4x13x48 MDF or plywood on the bench. If necessary, screw it down so that it stays flat. The entire boat will be built on this, so make it right.
- Page 8 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T We like the Great Planes 11 inch bar sanders Use good quality epoxy and finishing resin Epoxy brush trimmed for fast epoxy application Your life will be much easier with one of these...
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Page 9: Turn Fin Doubler
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Let’s get started The first thing you should do is to carefully sand the parts while they are still in the sheets. Do this with your 80 grit sanding block. -
Page 10: Frame Assembly
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Make sure the doubler will be on the front (inside) of the bulkhead. When you are sure you have it correct, glue the doubler to the bulkhead with 30 minute epoxy. - Page 11 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Start by assembling bulkheads 1, 2 and 3 to the side stringers. Make sure the bulkheads are in the correct slots, and facing the correct way. The “R” should be on the right.
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Page 12: Bottom
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Bottom Place the bottom sheets on the building board. Align the sheets at the rear. Don’t worry if the front isn’t perfectly aligned. Check the fit of the two sheets and sand the edges if needed. - Page 13 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Clamp a piece of wood to the rear of bulkhead 6 to keep it straight if needed, and then glue it and the gusset to the bottom with epoxy.
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Page 14: Putting It All Together
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Putting it together Slip the framework over the bottom. Place weights on the bottom to keep it flat against the building board. Align the bottom with the rear of bulkhead 3. - Page 15 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Install the outer non trip chines. Note that the right chine has two holes in it. The outer non trip chines get glued to the tops of both inner and outer chines. Use a square to be sure that the rear of bulkhead 3 is perfectly square.
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Page 16: Engine Rails
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Engine Rails Lightly sand the 2 engine rails. The engine rails have round holes to indicate the front. The right rail also has a cutout for the carb. Test fit the rails as follows: Put the right rail in the slot in bulkhead Push the rail against bulkhead 1 so that it... -
Page 17: Sponson Non Trips
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Sponson Non Trip With the hull upside down, use your wood plane to bevel the side and bottom chines to match the angle of the bulkheads. Sand the chines and bulkheads so that the non trip sides will fit squarely. - Page 18 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Place the non trip side on the framework and adjust it so that it just covers the (bottom) chine and hangs over 1/16 in the rear. Use your 1/16 overlap gauge. Use clamps to hold side against the frame.
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Page 19: Sponson Bottoms
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Sponson Bottoms Plane and sand the sides even with the sponson bottom. Take your time here, as this is a critical ride surface. Note that the bottom is not curved, but actually two flat, straight running surfaces. - Page 20 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Pre bevel the aft bottom sheets (both right and left) and carefully sand these as they will be the finished ride pads. The bevel should be at one end of the sheet.
- Page 21 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Finish sanding the aft sponson bottom bevel so that it matches the forward portion. Forward bottom sheet in place over bevel. Test fit the forward bottom in place. This should go back only far enough to cover the bevel, and leave a square edge.
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Page 22: Radio Box
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Radio Box Lets build the radio box while the bottom sheet cures. Remove all of the radio box parts: Two long sides, two short sides, the top and bottom, as well as the 1/8 ply top with Gluing the short side to the long. - Page 23 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Glue the radio box top on. This is the 1/8 inch Birch top. Using 80 grit, sand the overhang on the top and bottom so that it’s flush with the sides.
- Page 24 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Radio Find the 4 pieces of ¼x1-1/2 ply, and the 4 pieces of tri stock. These are the servo mounts. Using CA, glue one piece of tri stock to each piece of ply.
- Page 25 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T With the radio box still on its side, glue the rudder servo mounts in with CA. Make sure the 1/16 ply is under the servo, to space it up from the radio box bottom.
- Page 26 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Deck Supports Bevel one end of the deck supports so that they meet the front bottom sheet squarely. Glue these in place starting at the front. Start about ¼...
- Page 27 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T The rear non trip sides are designed to go outside of the hull, over the sides and bottom. The sides must be sanded flat in order for the sides to fit.
- Page 28 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Transom Inside view of rear non trip. When the rear non trips are done, sand the rear of bulkhead 6 flat. Glue the transom to the rear of bulkhead 6 using 30 minute epoxy.
- Page 29 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T must be sealed well. Continue coating the inside with finishing resin. If you need to mix more, use a new container and brush. If you don’t, the old resin will mess with the new resin, and create a problem.
- Page 30 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Allow everything to cure overnight. Only seal one coat on cowl deck. Water Supply Lines You will need two lengths of 5/32 OD brass tubing for the water supply lines. The bulkheads are pre drilled for these.
- Page 31 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Mounting Engine Transom end of water lines. Your engine should be in its 5 inch mounts, and have some sort of throttle assembly installed. We like the simple bell crank.
- Page 32 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T With a pencil, mark around the rubber isolator as far as you can. Do this for both sides. Remove the engine and mark the center by holding a flat washer in place and marking the center holes.
- Page 33 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Bolt the engine in place, with the ¼ inch rod in the collet. Try to slip a piece of 9/32 brass tubing over the rod, up to the collet. If that fits without interference, slip a piece of 5/16 brass tubing over that, if that slips on, slide the 11/32 brass...
- Page 34 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Try to be neat, and put some on the engine side of bulkhead 3. Don’t move anything for at least two hours. Sand the hull bottom where the radio Bottom of hull taped around stuffing tube.
- Page 35 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T box to the bottom. Center the radio box, front to rear between bulkheads 3 and 4. Mount the radio box so that the right side is just below the left edge of the deck support strip.
- Page 36 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T straight. If all looks good, mark and drill the other 3 holes. Mount the rudder on the left side of the transom, aligning it to the line you drew earlier.
- Page 37 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T After it cools, carefully bend the tube at your mark. Slip the tube back in to the stuffing tube and continue to bend it to meet the strut. You want one smooth bend, then a parallel run to the strut.
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Page 38: Exhaust
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T The flat spot should be about 1/16 to 3/32 deep. Slip the cable into the strut and tube, being absolutely certain that the cable is all the way into the collet. Measure the distance from the back of the strut to the front of the drive dog. - Page 39 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Assemble the pipe mount from the two ¼ inch plywood parts as shown. The pipe clamp bolts to this. Pipe mount assembled. You will need an exhaust extension to reach the transom.
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Page 40: Cowling
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Assemble the turn fin to the bracket so that it is on the inside of the bracket. If you mount the fin on the outside of the bracket, it would cause the water to lift the right sponson in the turns, as water hits the bracket. - Page 41 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T hold the former flush with bulkhead 1. Do the same with the rear former, only use small clamps to hold it slightly above flush. Forward cowl former. Note waxed paper. Set the cowl deck in place and center it on the deck support strips.
- Page 42 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T help the cowl deck to conform to the compound curve of the hull. While the deck is drying, grab the epoxy glass cowling. Wash the cowling in soap and water to remove the mold release agent.
- Page 43 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T can exit. See page 54 for a diagram of the air flow needed. Do this with a piece of foam, sanded to conform to the inside of the cowling, just at bulkhead 3.
- Page 44 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Put the cowling in place and carefully draw a line on each side of the cowling. These lines should trace the cowl on each side, marked on the deck supports. Remove the cowling.
- Page 45 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Use your brush to coat all areas that this deck will touch. Work quickly. As soon as everything is ready, start clamping and taping the deck as before. Use your alignment mark to save time.
- Page 46 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Finishing Sand the entire hull with 80. Fill any dings, dents, craters, valleys or chips with wood filler. When dry, sand again with 180. Check to make sure that all imperfections are filled.
- Page 47 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Repeat the whole thing for the second coat, only this time, after the second coat has cured, sand with 220 wet. Sand with a bucket of water, a dribbling hose or in your bathtub.
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Page 48: Decals
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Apply your decals. Wipe the area with alcohol, allow to dry. Remove the backing from the decal. If you have trouble removing the backing, press or squeegee it firmly, and try again. -
Page 49: Setup
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Push the strut to the table so that it is flat on the table while the transom is 1inch off the surface. Tighten the strut in the brackets. Install the rudder assembly Install the flex shaft. -
Page 50: Center Of Gravity
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Mount the switch. Turn the transmitter on first, then the receiver. Make sure the trims are centered. Put the rudder servo arm on. It should be parallel with the servo, and 90 degrees to the pushrod. -
Page 51: Running
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T back, the boat will blow off the water at high speeds, as well as “hop” in the turns. Running If you are using a new engine, you should run it on the stand before going to the pond. - Page 52 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Wiggle the rudder so you know it works, and then start the engine. Don’t rev the engine much, as there is no load on the prop until it’s in the water. To launch, have a helper toss the boat in level.
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Page 53: Troubleshooting
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Troubleshooting Boat bounces in the straights- Strut too high CG too far back Speed too slow Boat blows over at high speed- CG too far back Strut too high Boat “plows”- CG too far forward... -
Page 54: Tuning Notes
R I V E T T / R O C K E T T Tuning notes The Bullitt is just like any 3 point hydro, as far as tuning and adjustment. There are a few things that you should know when you are tuning your boat for maximum performance. - Page 55 R I V E T T / R O C K E T T...