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VENTING SYSTEM INSPECTION
At least once a year examine the vent system. Points of inspection
are as follows:
1. Check for obstructions and/or deterioration of the intake air and/
or vent piping and the intake air and vent terminations. Replace
immediately where needed.
2. The debris screens in the intake air and vent terminations should
be cleaned of foreign material and soot.
NOTE: Do not reach inside the vent termination when the heater
is in operation.
3. Check all vent system connections for leakage and repair or
reseal as necessary.
Be sure the vent piping is properly connected to prevent escape
of dangerous flue gasses which could cause deadly asphyxiation.
Obstructions and deteriorated vent systems may present serious
health risk or asphyxiation.
Chemical vapor corrosion of the flue and vent system may occur
if air for combustion contains certain chemical vapors. Spray can
propellants, cleaning solvents, refrigerator and air conditioner
refrigerants, swimming pool chemicals, calcium and sodium chloride,
waxes, bleach and process chemicals are typical compounds which
are potentially corrosive.
If after inspection of the vent system you found sooting or
deterioration, something is wrong. Call the local gas utility to correct
the problem and clean or replace the flue and venting before
resuming operation of the water heater.
ANODE ROD INSPECTION
To insure a long, trouble-free operating life, the water heaters
covered in this manual are factory equipped with one of two types
of anodes: powered and sacrificial. The following sections describe
the inspection appropriate for each type.
NOTE: To check which type of anode is installed, refer to the Heater
Status menu of the UIM (user interface module). If the water heater
is equipped with a powered anode rod, this menu will display the
Anode Current, Anode Tank Voltage, and Anode Drive Voltage
statuses. If the Anode Current, Anode Tank Voltage, and Anode Drive
Voltage statuses are not displayed, the water heater is equipped
with sacrificial anode(s). Refer to Features and Components (page
10) to locate the UIM and see Heater Status Menu (page 41) for
more information.
POWERED ANODE RODS
The anode rod is of a permanent design (non-sacrificial) and does
not need to be replaced unless damaged. Periodic inspection of the
powered anode rod is not required.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
A "No Water" or "Anode Shorted" fault displayed on the UIM indicates
a potentially damaged anode rod. If the powered anode rod has been
damaged, it should be removed and replaced from the water heater
tank. IMPORTANT: If the damaged powered anode rod has not
been replaced but has been removed permanently, this will void any
warranties. NOTE: Whether re-installing or replacing the powered
anode rod, check for any leaks and immediately correct if found.
To replace the powered anode:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Restart the water heater as directed in this manual.
SACRIFICIAL ANODE RODS
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which will slowly
deplete (due to electrolysis) prolonging the life of the water heater
by protecting the glass-lined tank from corrosion. Adverse water
quality, hotter water temperatures, high hot water usage, hydronic
heating devices, and water softening methods can increase the rate
of anode rod depletion. Once the anode rod is depleted, the tank
will start to corrode, eventually developing a leak.
Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between the anode
rod and the water. The most common complaint associated with
the anode rod is a "rotten egg smell" produced from the presence
of hydrogen sulfide gas dissolved in the water. IMPORTANT: Do not
remove this rod permanently as it will void any warranties. A special
anode rod may be available if water odor or discoloration occurs.
NOTE: This rod may reduce but not eliminate water odor problems.
The water supply system may require special filtration equipment
from a water conditioning company to successfully eliminate all
water odor problems.
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because the
process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and calcium ions.
The use of a water softener may decrease the life of the water
heater tank.
The anode rod should be inspected after a maximum of three years
and annually thereafter until the condition of the anode rod dictates
its replacement. Anode replacement is not covered by warranty.
NOTE: artificially softened water requires the anode rod to be
inspected annually.
The following are typical (but not all) signs of a depleted anode rod:
•
•
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be replaced.
52
Turn off electrical supply and gas supply to the water heater.
Shut off the water supply and open a nearby hot water faucet
to depressurize the water tank.
Drain approximately 5 gallons of water from tank (Refer to the
"Draining and Flushing" section for proper procedures). Close
drain valve.
Remove the wiring connection on the top of the powered anode
and remove the old powered anode rod.
Use Teflon® tape or approved pipe sealant on threads and
install new anode rod.
Turn on water supply and open nearby hot water faucet to purge
air from water system. Check for any leaks and immediately
correct any if found.
The majority of the rods diameter is less than 3/8".
Significant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or more of
the anode rod's length) are visible.
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