INTRODUCTION Thank you for purchasing the new Wattage P-51 Reno Racer EP. Before completing the final assembly of your new airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success the first time around! Wattage P-51 Reno Racer EP Features: 380 Size Direct Drive Motor w/5 x 2.5 Nylon Propeller...
SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS This section describes the items you will need to purchase for your new P-51 Reno Racer EP. These suggestions are not set in stone, but they should provide you with a good starting point. IMPORTANT When choosing accessories for your P-51, such as servos, ESC, and receiver, it's very important to take the weight of these items into consideration.
Here's What We Used to Finish Our P-51 Reno Racer EP: P/N 759118 Hitec 555 Micro Receiver Hitec Dual Conversion FM RX Crystal P/N 444052 Cirrus CS-10 Super-Micro Servos (3) Note: To minimize current loss, we suggest soldering the motor wires directly to the ESC. P/N 128484 Wattage IC-15A Micro ESC We also suggest replacing the stock Tamiya...
SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin assembly, group the parts like we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part.
We suggest ordering directly from your local dealer. If your dealer does not stock Wattage products, you can order directly from us at the address shown below: Global Hobby Distributors 18480 Bandilier Circle Fountain Valley CA 92728...
SECTION 6: MOTOR BREAK-IN YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS: (1) 380 Size Motor YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: Wire Cutters Emerald Performance Plus Motor Spray Paper Towels Trinity Motor Break In Drops K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron Rubber Bands Solder IMPORTANT Before installing the motor into the fuselage it must first be broken in.
Before operating the motor, apply a couple of drops of Break In Drops to the motor bushings. (One at the front and one at the back of the motor.) Operate the motor using a fully charged 4 cell battery pack and allow the motor to run for about 8 - 10 minutes. After 8 - 10 minutes, remove the battery pack and spray Motor Spray into the motor (through the two holes in the side of the motor) to clean the brushes.
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Using a modeling knife, carefully cut out the wing saddle along the outline you drew. Instead of trying to cut through the plastic in one pass, it's easier to make several shallow cuts. It also helps to use a very sharp knife blade. Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away the molded "button"...
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Mount the motor to the fuselage using the motor plate and two 2mm x 4mm machine screws. Tighten the machine screws firmly to hold the motor securely in place. Because of the length of the nose, it's easiest to drop the motor into the front of the fuselage and hold it by the shaft while installing the plate and screws.
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Using a ruler and a pencil, measure and mark the locations of the two wood screws used to hold the radio tray in place. The screws are located on the centerline of the fuselage (the mold seam), 1/4" in front of the back edge of the cockpit and 2"...
When satisfied with the fit, remove the plate and thoroughly sand the gluing surface on the underside of the wing saddle to roughen the plastic. Do not omit this procedure or the adhesive will not stick to the plastic. Glue the plywood plate into place using a thick bead of silicon. Push the plate firmly against the wing saddle until silicon begins to squeeze from the joint, and remove any excess using a paper towel.
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Step 2: Joining the Wing Panels Test-fit the two wing panels together. They should fit together with few or no gaps between the two, and the leading and trailing edges should line up evenly. If the wing panels don't fit together properly, carefully sand the root ends of each wing panel straight using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, being careful not to change the dihedral angle.
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Apply two long strips of clear plastic tape to the bottom of the wing. Apply the strips of tape down the middle of the wing, perpendicular to the center section joint, from wing tip to wing tip. These strips of tape help strengthen the wing. Do not omit this procedure.
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Step 4: Installing the Wing Reinforcement Board Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the trailing edge of the wing straight so that the wing will fit into the wing saddle. Check the fit often with the fuselage so you don't remove too much material.
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Carefully apply the reinforcement board to the top of the wing, making sure that it's centered over the wing's centerline and that the back edge of the reinforcement board is about 1/8" in front of the trailing edge reinforcement board. It's very important to the integrity of the wing that the reinforcement board be adhered to the wing along its entire surface.
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Using a ruler and a pencil, carefully mark the location of the wing dowel hole at the front of the wing saddle. The hole should be located on the centerline of the fuselage (the mold seam) and 7/16" up from the bottom of the fuselage. Using the tip of your modeling knife, make a small pilot hole in the fuselage at the mark you drew.
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Step 6: Installing the Plastic Radiator Scoop Using a pair of scissors, cut out the radiator scoop along its molded base, leaving about 3/32" of material to use as a gluing surface. Cut out the back of the radiator scoop along the molded scribe line, too.
SECTION 9: STABILIZER INSTALLATION YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS: (1) Prebent Elevator Joiner Wire (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves (1) Elevator Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts (1) Vertical Stabilizer & Rudder (1) 305mm Fiberglass Dowel (1) Stabilizer Mounting Board - 4 Parts (12) 1.5mm x 4mm Wood Screws (1) 320mm Self-Adhesive White Tape YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:...
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Step 2: Installing the Elevator Joiner Wire Place the prebent elevator joiner wire onto the bottom of the elevator halves. Center the wire over the middle of the elevator halves, making sure that the front of the wire is even with the beveled leading edges of the elevators.
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Step 3: Installing the Stabilizer Mounting Board Using a ruler and a pencil, draw a centerline across the top and bottom of the horizontal stabilizer, perpendicular to the trailing edge. Make sure the centerline is exactly in the center of the stabilizer.
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Cut out each of the three stabilizer mounting slots in the back of the fuselage. The easiest way to do this is to first carefully sand the outside of the slots until the edges of the flanges begin to show through. At this point the plastic will be thin enough that you can easily cut out the remaining plastic with a modeling knife.
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When satisfied with the alignment, use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the stabilizer in place. Using the tip of your modeling knife, make very small pilot holes in the stabilizer mounting board using the holes you drilled in the mounting flanges as a guide. Install and lightly tighten the eight 1.5mm x 4mm wood screws to hold the stabilizer firmly in place.
SECTION 10: TAIL WHEEL & RUDDER INSTALLATION YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS: (1) Tail Wheel Assembly (2) Nylon Hinges (2) 2mm x 5mm Wood Screws YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy Pencil Lightweight Oil or Vaseline q 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver Paper Towels...
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Measure down 1/2" from the top of the rudder, at the leading edge, and draw a mark. Measure down 2-1/2" from the top of the rudder, at the leading edge, and draw a mark. Carefully hand-drill a 1/16" diameter hole into the rudder, for the hinges, at each mark you drew. Be careful to drill the hole perpendicular to the leading edge and not at an angle.
Place the tail wheel bracket onto the bottom of the fuselage. To align the assembly, the tail wheel tiller arm should fit down into the slot you cut in the rudder, the pivot point of the tiller arm should be even with the rudder hinge line and the bracket should be centered in the middle of the fuselage.
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Test-fit the two servos into the radio tray. If the servos are too large to fit, use a modeling knife to enlarge the hole in the radio tray to accommodate the servos. Both of the servos' output shafts should face toward the front of the fuselage.
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Install the rudder control horn using the same method as the elevator control horn. The centerline of the control horn should be 1/4" up from, and parallel to, the bottom edge of the rudder. The cut that you make in the rudder to install the control horn will be right below the portion of the tail wheel wire that's glued into the rudder.
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Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-Bend in the pushrod wire at the mark you drew and use wire cutters to remove the excess wire. Remove the servo horn. Using a 1/16" drill bit, enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 1/4" out from the center of the servo horn.
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Push the servo into the cutout making sure that the servo output shaft is toward the leading edge of the wing. You will need to cut a notch in the side of the cutout for the servo wire to exit the top of the wing. Install the servo using the mounting screws provided with your servo.
Attach the servo horn to the Z-Bends, then attach the servo horn to the servo, making sure that it's centered. You will have to enlarge the holes in the servo arms using a 1/16" drill bit so that you can attach the pushrods. Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.
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Step 2: Aligning the Landing Gear Assemblies Using a ruler and a pencil, measure out 3-1/4" from the centerline of the wing and draw a mark on the bottom of the wing just behind the leading edge. Measure back 5/8" from the leading edge of the wing, at the first mark you drew, and draw a second, intersecting mark. Repeat the same procedures on the other half of the wing.
Step 4: Installing the Wheels Wrap one rubber band over the center of each plastic wheel. Center each rubber band, then glue them to the wheels using a couple of drops of thin C/A. Push one nylon wheel retainer into the molded hole in the center of each nylon main gear wheel. Push one wheel retainer/wheel assembly firmly onto the end of each landing gear axle.
Step 2: Installing the Canopy Set the canopy into place and align it over the molded cockpit area. When satisfied with the alignment, install and tighten two 2mm x 5mm wood screws, threaded through the canopy and into the fuselage, to hold the canopy in place. Use the tip of your modeling knife to make small pilot holes in the canopy and fuselage.
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Slide the propeller onto the shaft adapter, followed by the rear half of the spinner assembly. When installing the propeller, make sure it's facing forward. The front of the propeller has the propeller's size molded into it. Slide the flat washer up against the spinner and install and tighten the hex nut using an adjustable wrench.
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Mount the ESC to the fuselage side, as far away from the receiver as possible. Use a small piece of double-sided tape to hold it in place. Mounting the ESC as far away from the receiver as possible will reduce the chance of radio interference. If your ESC has an on/off switch, mount it to the fuselage side in front of the wing saddle.
SECTION 15: BALANCING THE P-51 RENO RACER EP YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: Ruler Pencil IMPORTANT It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose control and crash! Center of Gravity Location: 2-3/8"...
Once you're familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, you might want to increase the control throws to the sport- flying settings listed below. These control throws will make the airplane more responsive and allow you to do basic aerobatics with ease.
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The following are our general guidelines for your safety and the safety of others. Please read and understand these safety guidelines before going out to the flying field for the first time. Do not test-fly your model for the first time without first having it safety-checked by an experienced modeler. Do not fly your model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without having an observer with you.
SECTION 18: FLYING THE P-51 RENO RACER EP The P-51 Reno Racer EP can take off from the ground or be hand-launched. We recommend ground take-offs only from hard smooth surfaces. Taking Off from the Ground With the airplane pointing into the wind, apply full power and feed in right rudder to keep the airplane tracking straight as it rolls down the runway.
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Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net...
Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out. Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell, trade, or rent your personal information to others.
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_____________________________ without proper postage (Return Address Here) Global Hobby Distributors Attn: Customer Service 18480 Bandilier Circle Fountain Valley CA 92728-8610 Fold along dotted line Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net...
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