Congratulations on your purchase of the Fei Bao F4 Phantom II. Before you begin •...
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• Blue Loctite • Glues: Thin CA, 5 minute epoxy, Aeropoxy • Electronic gear sequencer • Brake valve • Batteries, regulator and switch • Servo extensions (length may vary, depending on receiver placement) Construction The order of construction may be changed to suit your personal preference, however, there are a few points to note: •...
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The tube that the pickup line connects to inside the tank may also need to be shortened to approximately 12 mm for ease of installation through the tank orifice. When finished, make sure to blow out the metal fragments and clean up any sharp edges. While the components are apart, check the Tygon pickup line for equal lengths in both saddle tanks.
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the hatch. Place a piece of scrap foam between the top of the tank and the side of the fuselage to hold the tank in this position. Cut a piece of scrap balsa block to act as a spacer between the front of the tank and the former.
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Step 2: Vertical Fin and Rudder Before assembly begins, inspect the glue joints between the fin ribs and the outer skin. These may be seen through the servo mounting hole and the forward inspection cut out. If there are gaps in the glue, fill them in with a little Aeropoxy. Mount the rudder servo, with the spindle toward the rear of the fin.
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Step 3: Horizontal Stabilizers Check the nuts that bolt the stab bearings to the stab plate for tightness. Also make sure the stab bearing covers are glued securely to the stabs. Reinforce if necessary. File the slots in the fuse side to give the stab as much throw as possible. Photo 8 Temporarily place the stab plate back into position in the fuselage.
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Connect the clevises to the servo arms. Don’t forget the locking clips. Screw the rod end bolts into the bearing plate arms, from the outside in. Slip the clevises in place and position the servos on the servo mounting plate. Photo 10 With the servo arms in a vertical position, and the stab set for a slight bit of up elevator, mark the position of the mounting brackets.
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Step 4: Tail Accessories Trial fit the lower stab cover and trims if necessary. Temporarily attach to the fuse with flat head screws. Photo 12 Bolt the exhaust cones to the aft firewall. Attach the tail hook. Roughen both surfaces to be glued and drill small holes in both parts to act as glue “pins”.
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Loosen the four retaining bolts and remove the forward door. Replace the screws in the fuselage to avoid losing track of them. Now is a good time to run airlines to the nose door cylinders while there is a little space to work.
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Reinsert the retract unit and bolt in place. Loctite. Photo 15 Remove the mounting lugs from the rear most door hinge to help with hinge clearance as the gear swings into the retracted position. Reinstall the nose gear door. Attach the cylinder to the nose gear door with a small cotter pin. Photo 16 Check the nose gear door to make sure it opens sufficiently to allow the nose gear to extend fully without binding on the door.
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Step 8: Component Board Trim the edges and back of the component board so that you can easily fit it through the canopy hatch. A suggested layout of components is shown in photos 17 and 18. This arrangement allows easy access to the receiver and servo wires, provides good separation between the turbine and receiver electronics and sits low enough for the cockpit to easily fit on top.
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Drill two holes on each side of the pipe mounting tabs. The first should be just in front of the pipe mouth, the other approximately 50 mm further forward. The tabs are positioned just above the centerline of the pipe and this is the top. Insert the pipe into the fuselage and position the aft end about 5 mm from the end of the exhaust cones.
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Step 10: Wing Servos Remove the servo cover. Mark the inside front of the door so you will know how to orient it for reassembly. Attach the aluminum L brackets to the servos as you did for the elevators. The servos will face in opposite directions and the servo spindle is positioned toward the rear of the wing.
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Step 11: Main Landing Gear Install airlines on the retract units. Check for air leaks and smooth operation of the retracts with a hand pump. Insert the gear into the mounts and extend the gear. The wheels should be set to just a slight amount of toe in compared to the wing root.
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for the bolt you will use to attach this door actuating arm to the cylinder end. Temporarily bolt the door-actuating arm to the door, aligned with the lower forward corner of the door (photo 27). Use a drop of Aeropoxy to help secure it. Put a drop of thin CA on the nuts and remove the excess bolt length, if any.
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Add an Aeropoxy fillet around the wooden cylinder-mounting block. If the door wants to open too far, you can add a small scrap of wood between the cylinder end and the bottom of the wing to prevent it from flexing upward. Route and secure the airlines and add quick disconnects.
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Photo 27 When you are satisfied with the operation of the outer door, add a fillet of Aeropoxy around the wood block. Clean up any excess glue from the struts and use a bit of touch up paint as necessary. Run the brake lines, making sure they don’t interfere with the operation of the retract units or doors.
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Cycle the gears before each flying session, checking for binding and proper door operation. Check the struts for play, indicating the clamping set screw needs to be tightened. Congratulations, you have completed construction on your Fei Bao F-4 Phantom II. See step 17 for balance and control throws.
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